January 25, 201511 yr frank, greasing is a problem for these BBSxx motors. I don't understand why these BBSxx do not have a grease nipple or an inspection cover? Can you explain?
January 25, 201511 yr Hi trex, I cant realy explain because after a lot of talks with Mr Wang, the Boss from Bafang, I gave up talking about quality and improvement. My solution is, try to collect information about the product and do the maintance by yourself. the chinese simply don´t care about if maybe 10-15% of the motor go brocken. for the greasing-nipple, I don´t think that a grease-nippel helps because then a lot of people would use to much grease. like I said, at the time I let produce a special fatbike-motor and if I open my website for this Motor I put all repair-instruction and maintance instruction on my website so that every buyer is able to do this job by himself. frank
January 25, 201511 yr ... the chinese simply don´t care about if maybe 10-15% of the motor go broken. I agree with you there. I also notice that quite a few Chinese factories use this bottom bracket assembly and gearbox for their crank drive motors, I guess SB just buy them in, so it would be out of their direct control. Perhaps they get better quality control with time.
January 26, 201511 yr Author Can you rerecommend a plier I should buy and have future use? I don't have nose plier at home
January 26, 201511 yr this one (£7.65): http://www.amazon.co.uk/Am-Tech-11-inch-Degree-Bent-Plier/dp/B0070NBB3U/ http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/71Lejd3oDrL._SL1500_.jpg Perhaps a lock ring tool may also do the job?
January 26, 201511 yr here is some phot o from pliers you can use forthe job. You dont need to buy the good brand for this easy job so I guess 10euro is enough, not big money. I would buy the red/yellow one the circlip-plier you better buy as a set but even a set is not expencive maybe 30euro and have sense if you want disassemble further. hello trex, .... I guess SB just buy them in, so it would be out of their direct control.... at that point I agree but: If a company can´t take care of the complete production process incl. the quality-control, they have no right to exist in my eyes.
January 26, 201511 yr would this £4.99 one do? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-PL65-Internal-Circlip-Pliers/dp/B000LFXALU/ http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31KN0BtF8LL._SX425_.jpg
January 26, 201511 yr Author This £5 does seem ok although it doesn't have good review. I suppose it should be good enough for what I need?
January 26, 201511 yr it should work for this easy job... I always use what is next to me on my work-desk and has two pin´s...
January 30, 201511 yr Removed and checked crank axle today all was good so regreased and refitted, The crown nut was fairly loose barely hand tight and undid with the circlip pliers although the end of a small allen key was also able to turn it. Mine had the seal on the non drive side so that should help in keeping the water out. Nice shiny axle as greased from factory. Seal on non drive side 2nd from right. Race cover remained within the BBS bottom bracket. Race from drive side, just visible needle bearing on other side.
February 11, 201511 yr Really good information in this thread, and special thanks to Frank for doing the disassembly instructions - I've bookmarked those for future reference. A quick question for you as it may be the bottom bracket that is at fault: I'm part way through a BBS01 install and have fitted the crank arms. When I turn the cranks forwards by hand I get creaks and rattles once per resolution, like this: Is this normal? The motor has yet to be connected to power as I haven't finished welding up the battery pack yet. I bought the motor here in the UK and it is still under warranty - I don't want to continue with the install if I need to send it back, or if it's a simple fix then maybe I should do it, but then again that might invalidate the warranty. Alternatively it could all just be me being paranoid ... Michael
February 11, 201511 yr no, it's not normal on a brand new motor. It should be near totally silent without the chain.
February 11, 201511 yr No clicking like that on mine so must be a manufacturing/production fault. Once up and running then there is some motor noise from the controller etc which is about 20db. Looks like its back to your supplier hopefully not in China.
February 12, 201511 yr yo that´s not normal but to identfy where´s the problem on a video is a bit difficult. do you have a resist when the noise is coming or when you spin the crank? Can you feel where it is come from? I mean from the axle or from sprocket-set The big sprocket turns the small motorsprocket and this is stick into a freewheel-bearing maybe it come from there? But anyway it should not be your problem, talk to your suplier and send back to him frank
February 12, 201511 yr Thanks folks. The supplier is in the UK so it would be easy enough to ship it back to them, but I think I'll take the cover plate off the final gear and have a look. The noises are once per crank revolution but if I stop, back the cranks up a bit (freewheel clicks) then continue turning the noise continues from where it left off, i.e. from the orientation of the final gear rather than the new position of the crank arms relative to the final gear. So it's not bottom bracket bearings but is something to do with the final gear itself. It doesn't sound a big issue and I think it would be wise to take the crank out and grease it up properly to set it up for a good life anyway. I'm going to be putting serious miles on it and it sounds like it'll need a bit of maintenance now and then anyway, so best to get in there before any harm is done! Michael
February 12, 201511 yr Ah Frank, you posted as I was writing my last reply! Thanks for your wise words. The noise is from the sprocket set (following the diagnosis in my last post) and as it's once per revolution it's somthing to do with the final drive sprocket. Perhaps I should contact the supplier (who doesn't have any more BBS01 in stock anyway, although he does have BBS02), highlight the issue and say I'll take the final drive cover off to have a look. Edit: Yes, I can feel a little resistance through the cranks as the clicks happen. Probably something in the teeth of the main drive sprocket or some such.
February 22, 201511 yr Author It does feel I have exactly the same issue and I'm planning to sort that out too
December 30, 201510 yr Author I still have the same problem with my BBS. I have opened it yet, but I'd like to check if anyone has the same issue and sorted it out? Here is my problem: - Motor works perfectly fine on throttle only - When I pedal with motor turn off, I have a "clac" sound on every pedal turn. - When I turn the pedal with my hand (and bike is upside down) so that it freewheels, there are no noise. Anyone has an idea on what's the problem and how to sort that out? Thank you
September 1, 20187 yr Really good information in this thread, and special thanks to Frank for doing the disassembly instructions - I've bookmarked those for future reference. A quick question for you as it may be the bottom bracket that is at fault: I'm part way through a BBS01 install and have fitted the crank arms. When I turn the cranks forwards by hand I get creaks and rattles once per resolution, like this: Is this normal? The motor has yet to be connected to power as I haven't finished welding up the battery pack yet. I bought the motor here in the UK and it is still under warranty - I don't want to continue with the install if I need to send it back, or if it's a simple fix then maybe I should do it, but then again that might invalidate the warranty. Alternatively it could all just be me being paranoid ... Michael Hi Michael, I'm not sure if you are still active on the forum? I have just installed a brand new BBS01/B which has exactly the same "fault" as yours and ticks in the same places. Did you ever get to the bottom of the problem? Best regards, Rob
June 27, 20214 yr My BBS02 has started making the same clicking sound. It was initially once per revolution but has just started twice per revolution now. I have ordered a new motor to replace it then will strip this one using Frank's excellent photo guide. I do have another motor but it got a bit hot running 14s (it's not a B motor) so I may be able to salvage any parts needed from that one. The hot motor still runs but there is a lot of clicking when under power which I think is from the one way clutch in the nylon gear.
June 30, 20214 yr Got my new motor fitted using only the actual motor along with the old cranks and pedals and the clicking noise was still there!!! It turned out it was the pedals even though I had checked that they turned freely by hand and had no play in them. They were less than 2 months old and came with the new Cannondale so that was a bit of a surprise. Not a problem though as the old motor will go on my Carrera Vengeance to use as a winter bike when the roads are salted and the Cannondale should last a good few extra years
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