why did I imagine you have access to a 400W laser cutter...

Thank you for the tip.

they work on the same principle.

I don't think mine that came with the kit do - they have a plunger which is physically pressed by the brake lever which makes me think they are purely a microswitch rather than being a hall or reed sensor.

 

Michael

I don't think mine that came with the kit do - they have a plunger which is physically pressed by the brake lever which makes me think they are purely a microswitch rather than being a hall or reed sensor.

 

Michael

Now that I look at the levers in the kit, mine are like that too. But I'm sure they could be used, by mounting the sensor in a bracket attached to the brake master cylinder and having the plunger push against a bracket attached to the brake lever. Wish I'd done that before spending dosh on the magnetic ones.

I unscrewed one of these levers sometime ago, can't find the damned thing whe you need it. The plunger moves a tiny magnet, about 3mm in diameter, against the body of the sensor. The sensor itself is a tiny Hall, if you rotate it 180 degrees, it changes the active signal from high to low. the BBS01 controller expects to see active high if I remember correctly.

Can I mount the wheel speed sensor back-to-front? Clearances are better this way round, and it uses up some of the excess cable length.

Can I mount the wheel speed sensor back-to-front? Clearances are better this way round, and it uses up some of the excess cable length.

Certainly - exactly what I have done.

Tony (and others), can you please explain to me how to connect the motor to the battery? The male pin on the blue (battery) wire is smaller than the socket on the black (motor) wire. You've supplied an extra (small size) connector and some heatshrink but I'm not sure how to proceed. Thanks!

your colours are correct but don't connect the wires, the connectors are mismatched.

You need to replace the connectors on the BBS01 side with matching crimps (3.9mm Japanese bullet connectors). Crimp the male to the red wire, the female to the black wire.

 

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/OTYyWDE2MDA=/z/NDYAAMXQ2q9RbA1s/$T2eC16NHJHoE9n3Kd2P7BRb!1sU+n!~~60_35.JPG?set_id=8800005007

 

You can solder the connectors but it's best to crimp with a crimping tool like this one:

 

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/$%28KGrHqMOKogE5k,OiqkzBOhE1PC9H!~~60_57.JPG

Crimp and Solder. Crimping is not as electrically reliable as soldering.

When I "fired up" the bike for the first time the speed sensor wasn't working. After a lot of dicking about and and email correspondence with Tony at Woosh it became clear that the problem wasn't the speed sensor but the brake sensors (see earlier posts in this thread). So I removed the hydraulic-type sensors and replaced them with the sensors that came with the levers supplied with the BBS01 kit. This involved hacksawing the supplied brake levers so that the sensors could be removed, and modifying my home-made mounting brackets:

So now everything works! Some of the wiring is rather untidy because the cables are mostly too long, and I'm far from being competent to shorten them, except maybe the power cables connecting the battery to the motor. I don't know why the hydraulic-type sensors didn't work - has anyone else had a similar problem?

I haven't been for a proper ride yet - tomorrow, hopefully.

that's a very good job you've done converting the cable operated brake sensor to use on your Hayes Nine.

Hello Sylvester,

Your motor works now with peddle assist but from your picture the brake cut off set up will not cut the motor. The yellow plunger needs to be depressed when actuating the lever so that the sensor senses the magnet. From what I see as it is now the plunger is fully extended so pulling the lever will not do anything more for it.

Sylvester, I've had a very similar problem. My BBS01 doesn't cut out with the brake levers when I turn the cranks, but it does stop the speed sensor working whilst I pull the brake levers. I'm using the hydraulic sensors as well. I tried the original levers though and they didn't solve the problem of the motor not cutting out. Glad Woosh sorted you out.

Hello Sylvester,

Your motor works now with peddle assist but from your picture the brake cut off set up will not cut the motor. The yellow plunger needs to be depressed when actuating the lever so that the sensor senses the magnet. From what I see as it is now the plunger is fully extended so pulling the lever will not do anything more for it.

In the picture the yellow plunger is part way out, and the motor runs happily. Pulling on the brake lever a small amount allows the plunger to extend a bit further, which cuts the motor. I've set up the levers so that the power is cut before the brakes are generating any friction. I've got the bike up on a workstand so that I can play about with everything, and it all works fine.

Your original set up with hydraulic brake sensor didn't work because the sensor was already sensing the magnet so the switching was in place. You have it back to front as you brake the magnet has to be moved to the sensor to cut power, the same applies to the second effort the magnet inside the wired housing is held off the sensor by a small spring.

Your original set up with hydraulic brake sensor didn't work because the sensor was already sensing the magnet so the switching was in place. You have it back to front as you brake the magnet has to be moved to the sensor to cut power, the same applies to the second effort the magnet inside the wired housing is held off the sensor by a small spring.

Well, Eclipse (who supplied the hydraulic sensors) sent me a photo of how they normally mount them, and I tried to copy the concept of their arrangement. And in fact my original setup did work when the thumb throttle was in use, but not when the bike was being pedalled!

Sylvester, I've had a very similar problem. My BBS01 doesn't cut out with the brake levers when I turn the cranks, but it does stop the speed sensor working whilst I pull the brake levers. I'm using the hydraulic sensors as well. I tried the original levers though and they didn't solve the problem of the motor not cutting out. Glad Woosh sorted you out.

Maybe you should have another go, with an arrangement like mine. It wasn't difficult to cobble up - I'm no craftsman.

Sylvester, that sounds just like the issue I had. So your hydraulic brake cutouts cut power when using throttle but not when pedalling? That's just the same as mine and is the first I've heard of anybody else having the same issue. However I had the same behaviour when trying the supplied brakes too.

 

Michael

Sylvester, that sounds just like the issue I had. So your hydraulic brake cutouts cut power when using throttle but not when pedalling? That's just the same as mine and is the first I've heard of anybody else having the same issue. However I had the same behaviour when trying the supplied brakes too.

 

Michael

Michael, you're welcome to bring your bike over some time. We could try connecting my sensors to your system, or something.

Reed switches are on or off, but hall sensors don't always work the same. You often need a pull-up or pull-down resistor to make the switching more certain. Are you using reed switches or hall sensors?

The BBS uses halls so the brakes switches which I assume are all Wuxing ones have different halls hence why mine operate different to Sylvesters.

I have had to incorporate my sensor housing on the inside of the lever opposed to Sylvesters being on the outside of the lever.

I don't pretend to understand much of this, but presumably the fact that our bikes can be ridden (albeit clunkily) with the brake switches unplugged implies that the switches should be open-circuit in their as-installed state, and go to closed-circuit when the levers are pulled.

There's two types, which depend on the controller hardware and software. For the most common ones, the signal wire is pulled up to 5v by a resistor, and the brake switch connects it directly to ground, which holds it low. The other type work the other way round, where the brake switch connects it to a 5v wire to make it high. The controller instructions usually refer to them as low voltage brake switch and high voltage brake switch. Some controllers have connectors for both.

Michael, you're welcome to bring your bike over some time. We could try connecting my sensors to your system, or something.

David, thank you very much for your kind offer. I have just thought of one thing - when I tried using the original brake lever I still had the hydraulic sensor plugged in to the other side. If the wiring on the hydraulic sensors is somehow causing the problem then I need to disconnect both before trying the original switch. I'll do that as soon as I can and see if it works. If not I'll take you up on your offer - I've sent you a message too.

 

Thanks for your help!

 

Michael

This morning I rode to Epsom to do a bit of shopping. The bike performed very well, especially on the long climb home up Ashley Road. There was quite a stiff breeze too.

 

The way the PAS cuts in and out will take a bit of getting used to - I must get the hang of using the thumb throttle to get moving more quickly from a standstill in traffic. Gear changing was very smooth, so the brake switches must be working ok.

 

I don't think the BBS01 system is nearly as intuitive as the Bosch. I rode a Bosch-equipped Scott the other week, it felt just like a normal bike except you didn't need need to pedal as hard.

 

I've left the display settings at their default values for the moment. Having three assistance levels is fine and I don't feel constrained by the speed limiter.

 

The bike, with rather a lot of cables: