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Fitting a 12 volt regulator to 36v bike.

Featured Replies

Now I've hopefully solved my range issue. Friday will tell lol.

 

Where I've been stopped by police so many times no longer want to increase speed or power.

 

Next up is Id like to add 12 volt equipment so I can 1, charge phone, blue tooth speaker and sports camera if really needed. I plan to fit this where my charger socket is under seat storage area in the form of a lighter sock

 

Secondly as I discovered from this site and from using bike. The Sellers description was in fact incorrect and My bike will not exceed 20 mph although I did manage 21 just on down hill briefly. This means I cannot ride legally on a 50 mph or faster road under Uk law. So there for I will need an amber flashing beacon so I can. The 36v ones are ridiculous in price. I already own a 12 volt one this will be fitted to my top box.

 

Can anyone recommend any Regulators.

I have to 36v 10ah lithuim battery's connected = 36v 20ah

If possible Id like to get maximum amps. So 12v 20 amp converter In case I fit air horns lol

 

cheers people

Secondly as I discovered from this site and from using bike. The Sellers description was in fact incorrect and My bike will not exceed 20 mph although I did manage 21 just on down hill briefly. This means I cannot ride legally on a 50 mph or faster road under Uk law. So there for I will need an amber flashing beacon so I can. The 36v ones are ridiculous in price. I already own a 12 volt one this will be fitted to my top box.

 

Can anyone recommend any Regulators.

I have to 36v 10ah lithuim battery's connected = 36v 20ah

If possible Id like to get maximum amps. So 12v 20 amp converter In case I fit air horns lol

 

cheers people

 

I've never heard of a law that says you cant ride on a road above 50mph limit? Where did you get this information from (I could be wrong, just would like to clarify).

 

What you need is a 'Buck' Converter, aka DC-DC converter. Make sure you get one with a 50v capacitor (or more) on the front end, because your battery will be 42v when fully charged. 20A is a bit ambitious, but 2A should be enough to chargge phone etc.

 

Example:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LM2596HV-Adjustable-Step-Down-Buck-Power-Supply-Module-DC-DC-Converter-4-5-60V-/301724470737?hash=item46402e0dd1:g:v0QAAOSwPhdVE8mZ

  • Author
I've never heard of a law that says you cant ride on a road above 50mph limit? Where did you get this information from (I could be wrong, just would like to clarify).

 

What you need is a 'Buck' Converter, aka DC-DC converter. Make sure you get one with a 50v capacitor (or more) on the front end, because your battery will be 42v when fully charged. 20A is a bit ambitious, but 2A should be enough to chargge phone etc.

 

Example:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LM2596HV-Adjustable-Step-Down-Buck-Power-Supply-Module-DC-DC-Converter-4-5-60V-/301724470737?hash=item46402e0dd1:g:v0QAAOSwPhdVE8mZ[/quote

Amber warning beacons can be fitted to vehicles which are not capable of exceeding 25mph to alert other vehicles to the presence of a slow moving vehicle

Under certain circumstances it may be a legal requirement.

at work but heres a quick bit of info

  • Author
I think this is a grey area I cannot find an exact law. Regarding amber beacon on bikes on dual carriage way guess i just feeling a little like want to be on the safe side. I do ride at rush hr in eve which is currently dark. I also ride Late at night and early hours off morning. when its really not safe to use Cycle paths due to there conditions and drunks. Also the High probability off getting Mugged in underpasses. Mobility scooters must have amber beacon on any dual carriage way. Tractors and plant on any dual carriage way with 50 mph or faster.

In law your EAPC is treated as a bicycle Robert, so where a bicycle is permitted, so are you.

.

Edited by flecc

  • 1 month later...
  • Author
It arrived in good order and I've wired it up. Tomorrow I'll try the utility socket i fitted to charge my phone and tomorrow night my amber beacon I've bought and installed. will report back Saturday lol.
  • 2 weeks later...

Identical to the one I purchased I think. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171943729717?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I am running a tail light, head light that was 8.4v rechargeable, then I connected in a car cigarette lighter adaptor that has 2 usb plugs as well, which charges my phone constantly as I use a cycling app all the time for speed and distance. I also use a usb powered DVR camera. If i need a higher powered USB socket, the car cigarette lighter type will be an easy plug in.

I have just ordered indicators and a horn all 12V which I hope will all be powered from this. I do have a 36V 25AH LiFePO4 battery, so drain shouldn't be a problem. 800W rear motor averages 35+ miles at average 24+mph, off road of course.

Edited by The S Man

  • Author
Identical to the one I purchased I think. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171943729717?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I am running a tail light, head light that was 8.4v rechargeable, then I connected in a car cigarette lighter adaptor that has 2 usb plugs as well, which charges my phone constantly as I use a cycling app all the time for speed and distance. I also use a usb powered DVR camera. If i need a higher powered USB socket, the car cigarette lighter type will be an easy plug in.

I have just ordered indicators and a horn all 12V which I hope will all be powered from this. I do have a 36V 25AH LiFePO4 battery, so drain shouldn't be a problem. 800W rear motor averages 35+ miles at average 24+mph, off road of course.

cool yes seems tge same. ive only managed to use my beacon. Its led so min drain i would immagine will be using it to charge phone tomorrow.

My battery cheap 2 *10ah

Bikes 40KG LOADED. In zero temp its doing 13 miles fine but still restricted. let me know how get on with horn. :)

  • Author
Identical to the one I purchased I think. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171943729717?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I am running a tail light, head light that was 8.4v rechargeable, then I connected in a car cigarette lighter adaptor that has 2 usb plugs as well, which charges my phone constantly as I use a cycling app all the time for speed and distance. I also use a usb powered DVR camera. If i need a higher powered USB socket, the car cigarette lighter type will be an easy plug in.

I have just ordered indicators and a horn all 12V which I hope will all be powered from this. I do have a 36V 25AH LiFePO4 battery, so drain shouldn't be a problem. 800W rear motor averages 35+ miles at average 24+mph, off road of course.

my lights are all built on bike two front lamps one rear indicators and brake light

hornyhorns.thumb.jpg.d644b3b66c3ae994a3ca62a6192d5576.jpg I ordered a pair of snail, dual air horns for £6. Nothing poxy about them! 100+ dB. In the photo you'll also notice on/off switch at back of saddle, also horn and indicator control on handlebars. The bag on the cross bar contains the wiring and is a phone holder as well. Use Strava for speedometer and distance covered.

Wiring still a work in progress.

Edited by The S Man

  • Author
Mines a meep meep horn lol. need to dig around shed for one. Think earthing will be the biggest issue
Mines a meep meep horn lol. need to dig around shed for one. Think earthing will be the biggest issue

It doesn't need earthing.

It doesn't need earthing.

I have a 12V +ve and -ve running to the horn.

On a car the negative terminal, usually, of a battery is connected to the body work of the car. This then gives you the

-ve voltage if required. Hence the term, negative earth.

That's why if something "shorts" to the car body, it will blow up, or a fuse at least.

On the bicycle there isn't that connection to make the circuit and cause a short.

I hope that's all correct.

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

I have a 12V +ve and -ve running to the horn.

On a car the negative terminal, usually, of a battery is connected to the body work of the car. This then gives you the

-ve voltage if required. Hence the term, negative earth.

That's why if something "shorts" to the car body, it will blow up, or a fuse at least.

On the bicycle there isn't that connection to make the circuit and cause a short.

I hope that's all correct.

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

OK, apologies. I thought you were trying to get a protective earth to it.

 

Earth is a bit if a misnomer on cars, its more correctly called common, 0v or Negative. On bikes it's even less correct, as generally there's no chassis connection.

 

Nothing from either is connected to earth in the true sense (a big metal spike, driven deep into the ground to safely dissipate stray current).

  • 7 years later...

I've never heard of a law that says you cant ride on a road above 50mph limit? Where did you get this information from (I could be wrong, just would like to clarify).

 

What you need is a 'Buck' Converter, aka DC-DC converter. Make sure you get one with a 50v capacitor (or more) on the front end, because your battery will be 42v when fully charged. 20A is a bit ambitious, but 2A should be enough to chargge phone etc.

 

Example:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LM2596HV-Adjustable-Step-Down-Buck-Power-Supply-Module-DC-DC-Converter-4-5-60V-/301724470737?hash=item46402e0dd1:g:v0QAAOSwPhdVE8mZ

The uk limit for an e-bike or e-scooter on a uk road is 15.5 mph. Motor must be 250watt max with the thumb throttle on a pedal assist only able to accelerate up to 4mph.

Anything greater than that on a uk road you risk getting done.

The hub is supposed to have the wattage shown on it by the manufacturer.

loads of info on this at gov.uk

 

Bobbo.

The uk limit for an e-bike or e-scooter on a uk road is 15.5 mph. Motor must be 250watt max with the thumb throttle on a pedal assist only able to accelerate up to 4mph.

Anything greater than that on a uk road you risk getting done.

The hub is supposed to have the wattage shown on it by the manufacturer.

loads of info on this at gov.uk

 

Bobbo.

The throttle can work up to 15.5 mph as long as power stops when the pedals stop. The 250w max is the rated power, not the actual power. The actual power can be whatever you want as long as you use a 250w motor.

The uk limit for an e-bike or e-scooter on a uk road is 15.5 mph. Motor must be 250watt max ....

To be pedantic, the 15.5mph limit is in relation to the motor's cut off point - I often pedal well beyond that point albeit without electric assist.

 

As for the 250w figure, have some fun and get your head around '250w max continuous power' which is something entirely different from the peak power obtainable from perfectly legal UK pedelecs.

 

And if you've trouble sleeping, look through EN15194

The uk limit for an e-bike or e-scooter on a uk road is 15.5 mph.

Bikes4two beat me to it ....

 

Just to clarify, 15.5mph is the maximum assisted speed.

As long as you can pedal it up to 50mph or more that's fine. It's even legal in a 20mph zone, as most speed limits apply to motor vehicles, and and EPAC/Pedelec does not classify as a motor vehicle.

Bikes4two beat me to it ....

 

Just to clarify, 15.5mph is the maximum assisted speed.

As long as you can pedal it up to 50mph or more that's fine. It's even legal in a 20mph zone, as most speed limits apply to motor vehicles, and and EPAC/Pedelec does not classify as a motor vehicle.

Plus there’s no requirement to have a speedo to know what speed you are doing

Bikes4two beat me to it ....

 

Just to clarify, 15.5mph is the maximum assisted speed.

As long as you can pedal it up to 50mph or more that's fine. It's even legal in a 20mph zone, as most speed limits apply to motor vehicles, and and EPAC/Pedelec does not classify as a motor vehicle.

Steady on. That's probably not legal. It's true that you can't get a ticket for speeding on a bicycle, but if the police caught you pedalling at 50 mph in a 20mph zone, you'd almost certainly get a ticket for furious cycling, for which you can go to jail.

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