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Electric bike under£1000

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  • Author
Hi letchste. That's twice youve mentioned having enough power left in the battery after it's been standing 12 hours. Are you thinking it runs down while standing about?

Yes I did - no experience with electric bikes, reassuring to know it lasts longer - many thanks

  • Author
.. If the bike is switched off or the battery removed, any charge on it will remain for at least a month. If the battery were left on the bike, and it left switched on .. which would be a recipe for theft, there will be a small leakage of current to energise the electronics and it would lose charge per 3 to 4 days.

If you were ,in. A , position to ,do so,. Taking the battery With you would be a good. Anti theft measure.

That's good advice will keep it in mind

If you're new to ebikes it's also worth mentioning that there are two types of drive system available. A hub motor bike as the name suggests has a motor built into the hub of the wheel, usually the back wheel but sometimes it can be the front wheel. A crank drive or centre drive bike has the motor built into the crank where th pedals are situated.

 

The riding experience on each system is very different. A hub motor bike will feel more like a low powered scooter/motorbike, almost all will have a pedal assist system that kicks in when you pedal and many will also have a throttle control. A crank drive bike by contrast feels more like riding a regular bike and generally requires a bit more effort as power delivery is based in part on torque, that is to say how hard you push down on the pedals, and most crank drive bikes don't have a throttle.

 

Most bikes under £1000 will have a hub motor system as crank drive bikes tend to come in at a higher price point, but it's just something to be aware of.

Most bikes under £1000 will have a hub motor system as crank drive bikes tend to come in at a higher price point, but it's just something to be aware of.

 

The Woosh Krieger is a crank drive bike, it costs £999 including delivery.

It is now fitted with a gear sensor.

 

http://wooshbikes.co.uk/?krieger

 

http://wooshbikes.co.uk/2017/krieger/krieger-5000.jpg

If you're new to ebikes it's also worth mentioning that there are two types of drive system available. A hub motor bike as the name suggests has a motor built into the hub of the wheel, usually the back wheel but sometimes it can be the front wheel. A crank drive or centre drive bike has the motor built into the crank where th pedals are situated.

 

The riding experience on each system is very different. A hub motor bike will feel more like a low powered scooter/motorbike, almost all will have a pedal assist system that kicks in when you pedal and many will also have a throttle control. A crank drive bike by contrast feels more like riding a regular bike and generally requires a bit more effort as power delivery is based in part on torque, that is to say how hard you push down on the pedals, and most crank drive bikes don't have a throttle.

 

Most bikes under £1000 will have a hub motor system as crank drive bikes tend to come in at a higher price point, but it's just something to be aware of.

You can't generalise like that. From those comments, I guess you haven't ridden many different hub-motored bikes. It's more the control system that gives the feel of the bike rather than the motor. The main difference between the two types of motor is the way you have to use the gears more on a CD motor.

 

If you were comparing a Cyclamatic mk1 with a Bosch bike, your comments would be valid, but if you compared a KTM Panasonic with a Woosh Sport CD mk1, you'd be saying the exact opposite.

 

Did you try a Wisper Torque, A KTM Panasonic or any bike with a Bionx?

 

If you had kept your comments to price rather than type of motor, they wouldn't be so far off. The cheapest bikes tend to have the worst control system, but you can't make a fixed rule even with that.

You can't generalise like that. From those comments, I guess you haven't ridden many different hub-motored bikes. It's more the control system that gives the feel of the bike rather than the motor. The main difference between the two types of motor is the way you have to use the gears more on a CD motor.

 

If you were comparing a Cyclamatic mk1 with a Bosch bike, your comments would be valid, but if you compared a KTM Panasonic with a Woosh Sport CD mk1, you'd be saying the exact opposite.

 

Did you try a Wisper Torque, A KTM Panasonic or any bike with a Bionx?

 

If you had kept your comments to price rather than type of motor, they wouldn't be so far off. The cheapest bikes tend to have the worst control system, but you can't make a fixed rule even with that.

 

What I have said is a generalisation and it was intentional. There are of course hub motor bikes with torque sensors (I've ridden a couple) and likewise centre drives with throttles etc. But the OP is new to ebikes and has a £1000 budget and as such I did not want to overcomplicate things. This is just some basic page one advice which might be helpful for them to know. If the OP follows the usual advice of this forum and test rides a few bikes they should in any case get a feel for the different bikes / systems.

 

But for the avoidance of any doubt I agree that this subject is more nuanced especially for bikes at the premium end of the price spectrum, and that it's the control system that in large part determines the feel of the bike.

The main difference between the two types of motor is the way you have to use the gears more on a CD motor.

 

The main difference between the two types of motor is the way the bike wiggles its derriere.

I sometimes do a 'wiggling' test for the feel of the bike, holding to the left brake and the saddle. The less the bike wiggles its derriere, the more it feels bikey.

The main difference between the two types of motor is the way the bike wiggles its derriere.

I sometimes do a 'wiggling' test for the feel of the bike, holding to the left brake and the saddle. The less the bike wiggles its derriere, the more it feels bikey.

... Are we still talking about bikes? Or is there a connection I'm missing?

  • Author
What I have said is a generalisation and it was intentional. There are of course hub motor bikes with torque sensors (I've ridden a couple) and likewise centre drives with throttles etc. But the OP is new to ebikes and has a £1000 budget and as such I did not want to overcomplicate things. This is just some basic page one advice which might be helpful for them to know. If the OP follows the usual advice of this forum and test rides a few bikes they should in any case get a feel for the different bikes / systems.

 

But for the avoidance of any doubt I agree that this subject is more nuanced especially for bikes at the premium end of the price spectrum, and that it's the control system that in large part determines the feel of the bike.

 

Many thanks for this so whose big bear and Krueger in my price range. Any others capable of getting a 15 stone man up a 1 in 4 hill. Many thanks for all your help I do appreciate it

Are you sure it's 1 in 4? That's pretty steep. Is there a sign that says 1 in 4 because you can't rely on Strava or Google?

 

If you have a smart-phone, you can download Clinometer app, which can measure fairly accurately.

 

If it's truly 1 in 4, you need a bike with very low gearing and probably a crank-drive.

That's what I was thinking - not many 1 in 4's around. Porlock Hill in Devon is one. Ten more steep un's listed here:

https://roadcyclinguk.com/sportive/ten-uks-steepest-climbs.html

 

Gaz

There is a 1 in 4 at Milland, near Liphook, and I think Harting Hill is as well, although the Tour de France bods went up it quite fast! I walked down it with my bike with a trailer on the back, very cautiously! Yes, 1 in 4 is steep.

Hello lechtste,

 

Take a look at the new Woosh Rio.

It has a GXP crankset. It may not mean much to most people but when you climb up a big hill, a wide GXP crankset with external bearings like one Ounce 245 on the Rio can make a big difference.

 

http://wooshbikes.co.uk/?rio-mtb

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