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Woosh Rio MTB Review/Initial Impressions

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Luckily the battery has never sparked yet not have i ever lost connection no matter how bumpy the roads get, I will take your advice though and go buy some grease.

 

Is there any particular type or brand I should look for?

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any grease will do. I usually use white lithium grease because it's white.

Hi Woosh,

 

I had a look at the battery case last night, I'm happy to report that both the little self tappers were tight and the lower M3 screw was also still nice and tight.

 

The Upper M3 screw was nowhere to be found! It must have worked itself loose and fallen out somewhere.

 

If you could post me a couple of replacement M3 screws and a couple of spring washers I would be mighty obliged!

  • Author

Nothing much to update. At 770 miles now (Do i hold the record for most miles on the Rio?). So 30 miles overdue my 250 mile service schedule.

I'm not exactly sure what to actually service, so I just did the usual which is:

 

1. Clean entire bike with warm water and car shampoo

2. Degrease chain

3. Oil chain

4. Check all bolts are tight

5. Clean and regrease battery connection point as well as spray a little oil in the key slot

6. Check tyre pressures (I do this every couple of weeks anyway) both at 50psi, I last inflated them maybe a month ago to 55ish PSI, very impressed.

 

Anything else I should be checking? I notice oil does accumulate on the forks but I just wipe it off and carry on. When I last charged the battery from flat it took about 6.45.

 

I hit a bit of pavement today which was glistening with tiny glass fragments and still no puncture to date.

 

Edit: I was also getting irritated to the incredibly squeaky front brake. So I took the pads out and roughed them up with sand paper and applied a bit of copper grease on the pad holder, seems to have cleared it up.

Anything else I should be checking?

check all the spokes.

check the metal coil spring that is at the elbow of the motor axle. you want to make sure that the cable channel is dry, no rust, the coil should be about 5mm inside the motor axle so it protects the motor cable against chafing. Grease also the ballbearings and around the motor axle.

Check the derailleur. Grease the shifter cable.

Check the fork, preload setting, fork lock and release. Clean the upper tubes.

Check the brake pistons. When you squeeze the brakes, both inside and outside pistons should move and contact the rotor is possible at the same time, so that the rotor is not pressed to one side. If they don't, please post a picture of the brakes / rotor when you squeeze the brakes, I'll suggest the remedy.

Check the cranks. Move the left crank to 9 o'clock. Push the crank toward the frame. If it moves more than 1mm, you need to tighten the crank bolt about one haft turn. To do this, loosen then two M6 bolts that lock the crank to the bottom bracket and use an 8mm allen key to tighten up the crank bolt about half a turn then check the crank movement. Retighten the M6 bolts.

Check the pedals. Make sure they don't feel notchy. Grease them.

Check the speed sensor magnet that it's still facing the sensor head.

Check the 4 screws that hold the battery cradle. Check the battery lock, grease it.

Grease the battery terminal. Check the battery contacts, you want them clean and greased.

Check the front hub. Grease the ballbearings and the QR skewer springs.

  • 2 weeks later...
http://www.sks-germany.com/inhalte/uploads/2015/08/11320_RACEBLADE_PRO_side_red-1024x641.jpg

 

Hi Team,

 

I got saturated on the way home last night, it had stopped raining but on one particular stretch of road there is a big puddle which I have to ride through and always leaves me with a soaking wet ass!

 

I have tried positioning the rear mudguard that came with the bike at different heights and angles but no matter what....I'm still getting soaked.

 

I remember that Tony had recommended the mudguards above but I was wondering if anyone know of any proper full length mudguards that will fit the Rio.

 

I'm actually considering the ones that nearly go to the ground and then have that extra wide flap at the bottom! If I can find a set that fits!

 

And if they look cool too that will be an extra bonus!

 

Also, does the Rio have mudguard mounts?

Also, does the Rio have mudguard mounts?

Only one mount on each side.

If you don't use them for the rear rack, then by all means, use them for normal mudguards.

I like both but thought the Zefals look meaner while the SKS look more robust.
The rear Zefal one looks really cool but it's an expensive do if they turn out to not be much better than the original ones. Methinks you need to read some mudguard reviews.

I contacted the seller of the SKS set and they said they won't fit as the Woosh has no screwholes at the front hub. I had a good look round the bike and there are a set of holes at the back but none at the front. I'm tempted to buy them anyway and then bodge something.

 

As Tony said, they are normally used for a rack but can be used for the rear guard.

 

I need a good solution for the front as me feet are getting soaked from spray from the front wheel.

 

I think I'll do more research before buying, its a shame to spoil the look of the bike with full guards, but it also sucks turning up to work feeling like some has thrown a bucket of water over me!

On a completely separate note, a buddy of mine had a ride on my Woosh today and immediately went on ebay to start looking at whats out there and we came across this:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ELECTRIC-BIKE-WITH-A-HUGE-1000w-MOTOR-48v-BATTERY-UP-TO-50-MILE-RANGE-/302383174799?hash=item466771148f:g:wwkAAOSwsXVZZ4GF

 

The bike is cool but look at the battery.....it looks to be the exact same form factor as the Woosh Rio battery but its 48V and 17AH !

the Rio uses 50-cell casing, the 48V 17AH that Damian mentioned uses 65-cell casing, they are taller but still fit. The Rio 17AH battery is made with 10S5P in NCR Panasonic cells for 10S5P, cost: £399. I can fit 10S6P 20AH into a 65-cell casing. The cost for the 20AH would be £369.

 

edit:

 

It's £469, not £369.

Edited by Woosh

the Rio uses 50-cell casing, the 48V 17AH that Damian mentioned uses 65-cell casing, they are taller but still fit. The Rio 17AH battery is made with 10S5P in NCR Panasonic cells for 10S5P, cost: £399. I can fit 10S6P 20AH into a 65-cell casing. The cost for the 20AH would be £369.

Why is the 20AH cheaper?

I stumbled on this almost completely by accident but I am thinking about upgrades down the line.

 

Mainly, bigger battery + beefier controller = More speed!

 

When the warranty runs out of course!

Why is the 20AH cheaper?

sorry, you are right. I have amended it to £469.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author
Hows everyone getting on with their Rio's? At around 850 miles now. Only doing around 30 miles a week, using throttle a lot more just to get to where I need to go quicker. Its getting cold and the wind always seems to be against me lol. No issues to report, try to keep up on maintenance. Expected some loose spokes by now due to some of the rough terrain i've been on but so far so good. Front brake squeak has returned, it's really loud but it still brakes firmly. Maybe a contaminated pad?

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