Hello, I'm after a little help replacing my Cyclamatic power plus controller.

Where do I start??

The old controller when opened had an exploded capacitor, I replaced the capacitor but it was dead, obviously what ever made the capacitor explode in the first place had affected other parts of the controller also.

So I bought a universal 24v brushless controller off eBay, now my problem was / is that the supplier didn't include the wiring diagram with the controller, so I don't know which wires go to what.

The obvious wires likes of the hall and the motor were easy enough, and I've guessed at a few others but there are a few remaining I need to know and also if the others are correct too.

I've included a few pictures, you'll see the ones I've left yet to connect and the wires that are available to connect too.

Also, is there anything I need to do once I've connected the controller to get the bike running?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Here's the Cyclamatic wiring. there's some differences from normal controllers.

 

The yellow on the throttle is for the LED battery indicators. You can connect that to any wire that has battery voltage on it.

 

The PAS connectors normally have three wires, but for some strange reason, the Cyclamatic takes the 5v from a branch off the throttles 5v, so the PAS red (5v) was connected to the throttle's grey. Your new controller will have the standard 3-wire connector, so you can connect red to red. Your photos don't make any sense to me. Is that how it came from the supplier. If not, show me the link and I'll be able to explain the wiring.

 

Capacitors don't go for no reason. you either connected the battery the wrong way or used too high a voltage:

 

Thank you for the reply.

Here are the photos of the controller before I added the wires off the old one.

This is what there add states but makes little sense to me.

 

connection:

Motor line:big yellow,big blue,big green

Positive and negative pole and electric door lock:

big red big black,small red integration

Study line:two White line black head

Holzer line:Five wire plug

Transfer line:Black, red, and green composite plug

Brake line and EABS function:purple,black,white

1.Motor line:big yellow,big blue,big green

2.Positive and negative pole and electric door lock:

big red big black,small red integration

3.Study line:two White line black head

4. Holzer line:Five wire plug

5.Transfer line:Black, red, and green composite plug

6. Brake line and EABS function:purple,black,white

 

1. obvious

2. Battery wires. the thin red is the ignition wire. you can hard wire it to a battery positive or put an on/off switch in between. It carries only 100mA, so any switch will do.

3. Self-study wires. Connect them before you first switch on. The controller will figure things out, then start rotating the wheel by itself. At that stage, switch off and disconnect the wires. It will then remember the settings. If the motor goes backwards, try again.

4. Hall sensor block for the motor

5. throttle

6. Electronic assisted braking. Only works with DD motors so leave disconnected. It's possible that black and white in that connector might be the normal brake switch connector. test it with a 1K or higher resistor connected between the black and white. If it cuts the motor when bridged, that's what it is; however, I don't see a purple, black and white in the pictures.

 

Red, black and yellow is PAS

Yellow, black and blue is most likely the three-speed switch

Red and black is probably aux power for lights. Check the voltage with a meter to confirm.

Mauve is probably for high level brake, which you don't have.

That leaves orange and black, which could be anything.

 

The above descriptions see to differ from what you show in your photo, but I can't see what you have from those photos.

 

The PAS on the Cyclamatic works backwards. When you get everything done, test to see if it works when you pedal backwards, if so, take the crank off and flip the magnet disc.

Thank you so much for the reply d8veh!

I'm in the process of soldering now lol so I'll let you know how I get on.

Just a few questions, do I leave the green and black wires for the brakes disconnected? Will it make any difference?

Which red wire do I connect for the ignition 'there's a few'?

Finally, should I connect the two pink wires for the cruise option?

Thanks again.

Could you tell me which wires from the controller these attach too ?

Thank you so much for the reply d8veh!

I'm in the process of soldering now lol so I'll let you know how I get on.

Just a few questions, do I leave the green and black wires for the brakes disconnected? Will it make any difference?

Which red wire do I connect for the ignition 'there's a few'?

Finally, should I connect the two pink wires for the cruise option?

Thanks again.

There's a white block connector with thick red and black battery wires plus a thinner red wire. the thinner one is the ignition wire.

 

You can leave the brakes disconnected and the controller and everything else will still work, but IIRC, the Cyclamatic has a bit of run-on after you stop pedalling, which is not so comfortable without brake cut-offs.

 

If you have cruise wires, do not connect them, especially without brake cut-offs, otherwise cruise will automatically engage and there will be no way to shut it off.

Could you tell me which wires from the controller these attach too ?

Where did that come from? It's not from the Cyclamatic and not from your new controller. It looks like an LCD connector, but you don't have an LCD.

Hopefully these pictures will help a little.

The hall, motor and power leads are the two big ones on the top left, which like you said were easy to find. The smaller black lead that has 2 wires now soldered to it and a 3rd Red yet to be soldered goes to the magnet on the crank 'pas', I think I've used the correct wires for that too.

The problem now lies with the throttle and brake lead, it's the lead pictured without anything soldered to it. I can't find the relevant wires / block to solder to it as non look the same.

The 2nd last picture is of the old control box before I snipped the wires. And the last picture is what I found out caused the capacitor to blow. Might just fix the wire and see if it works lol.

Red wire shorted hence exploding capacitor

That's not a Cyclamatic Power Plus then. is it a later model?

 

One thing at a time. The original PAS red was joined to the yellow that went up the harness. I would assume that somewhere on the handlebars is connected to the red in that harness, which is 5v, probably via a switch so that you can switch it off. If you want, you can connect it to any 5v red, like the one that's spare from the PAS connector. If there is a switch and you want to use it, connect the red in the other cable to that red and the PAS red to the yellow, like it was before.

 

That leaves white, blue and black in that harness. Whire goes to BK, so we can assume that it's the brake. that's a common colour for the brake anyway. That leaves the blue as the throttle signal.

 

You therefore need to connect the white to the brake signal wire in the new controller, and the blue to the throttle signal wire, which is the green in the red, green and black connector.

 

the only question now is which is the brake signal. By a process of elimination, I'd say it's the orange and black.. You need to power it up and check that they show 5v between them, then test with a 1K resistor as a bridge to see if it cuts the motor, otherwise you can take a chance. If that is the brake connector, the white goes to the orange.

One other thing. you can't always join motor cables colour to colour. There's 36 combinations of hall and phase wires. Three combinations will work, three will turn the motor backwards and the rest make it judder, tick or nothing. There's about a 70% chance that it will work with colour to colour. Whatever you do, don't give more than a little bit of throttle until you confirm that the motor runs smoothly, otherwise your mosfets will pop.

This is my Cyclamatic. And this is where I'm up to so far, does it look right?

Do I need to connect the 2 red wires with the green covers on for the ignition!

Quick update.

Nothing happened when I connected it up. I've connected both of those red wires and now when I press the pas button on the handle bars the motor runs at full power but without fault.

No lights on the handle bars etc and only runs when I press the button in.

Does that help any?

That's different to the earlier pictures of the controller that you showed. yes, the red wires are the ignition wires. You can leave them connected or put a switch between them.

 

That bike looks like the original Power Plus, but it has upgraded wiring.

 

Check that your throttle wires match. Most likely, you have the wrong connection sequence. Either the throttle or the PAS has the wrong sequence. try disconnecting one at a time to see which.

Is the pas not working correctly? When the button is pressed it turns the back wheel.

I've still got to find a place for the black and the green wire, the cyclamatic wiring diagram you provided before shows that these are the brake wires but I'm not sure. The throttle doesn't work at all and the power lights don't either.

It was the same controller I've just stripped it back, the guy from eBay 'who still hasn't sent the wiring diagram', also posted wrong pics of the controller he was selling!

My wiring diagram is completely different to your bike. they changed the wiring on your model.

I'm going to have to get the multimeter out and try a few different combinations, I'm not sure why the pas is working this way but obviously I've got the switch direct to the motor somehow. It'd be much easier with a wiring diagram from Cyclamatic and this guy from eBay LoL. Do you know where to get genuine Cyclamatic parts from?

Do you know where to get genuine Cyclamatic parts from?

Sports Direct.

Lol

Still really stuck!!

The current configuration I have is the picture below, in this configuration no lights are shown on the handle bars and the throttle does not work however, when I press the pas button the motor kicks in at full power regardless if you're pedalling or not. The ignition is working as it should also.

Obviously the pas button is connected direct to the power but I'm very unsure of where the wires go, short from taking the throttle, brakes and lights apart to see which wire goes where, I'm stumped!

1 = Hall and motor connections, no problem here.

2 = Power, no problem here.

3 = PAS, obviously not correct

4 = Throttle, brake, power lights etc

I will also include a closer picture of before I attached the 4th wire.

Any help would be gratefully appreciated

The below picture is before I added the (4) wire

 

This is what the unhelpful person off eBay said the wires go to..

 

Cable connection:

Motor line:big yellow,big blue,big green

Positive and negative pole and electric door lock:

big red big black,small red integration

Study line:two White line black head

Holzer line:Five wire plug

Transfer line:Black, red, and green composite plug

Brake line and EABS function:purple,black,white

You have your switch wired incorrectly. Most likely, you have your throttle wires out of sequence too, and maybe the PAS wires if that doesn't work.

 

For the motor to go when you press the switch, you must have incorrectly wired the 5v and throttle signal to it.

 

Did you flip your magnet disc? Did you check whether your PAS works backwards?

I think it's likely that the PAS wires are incorrectly attached to one of the throttle wires I just don't have a clue which wires are which and I can't find anything from Cyclamatic to tell me which wires are which. If I had a diagram I could try with the box to link the correct wires.

I don't think the magnet disc is a problem just yet as it's only an issue when I press the pas button and regardless if I pedal.

Stumped!!!