Thanks for the offer but I've got it booked into a shop round the corner for 9:00 tomorrow. I just can't stand it any longer. But if no joy there I'll be borrowing the wife's kiddie wagon and heading over the new bridge (I'm in East Lothian) to pay you a visit.

 

As for the pulley - in real life it does appear directly below but doesn't seem totally vertical - perhaps only 1 or 2 deg off plumb. Taking a photo at just the right angle (without lying on the wet pavement) was quite tricky. That was the best shot I managed from about 10 atempts.

 

The thing is it can be off-true in different planes and to check it's useful if you have one of these.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/x-tools-pro-gear-hanger-alignment-tool/rp-prod122319?gs=1&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Chain+Reaction-UK-PLA-PLA-All-DT-SE-Shopping+QLB+Generic+Desktop&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mkwid|sHXzK4RKZ_dc|pcrid|161850070953|pkw||pmt||prd|439096UK

Just an observation from your first photo. Is the wheel sitting completely in the rear drop out?

Just an observation from your first photo. Is the wheel sitting completely in the rear drop out?

 

Yeah, I don't know why it looks like that. The paint seems to fall off if you look at it too hard. I noticed it after I got a puncture a few weeks ago. Removed the wheel and carefully refitted but that's it seated.

What's going on with the diagonal marks on the chain? Certainly looks like its not indexed properly to me (or mech hanger is bent ). Speed sensor magnet could do with truing up too.

That`s the oddest shape of a derailleur i`ve ever seen,

 

New derailleur and possibly hanger, looks like it `s got a thump somewhere.

The one thing nobody has mentioned is the front sprocket. When mine was jumping on all the gears, I replaced the chain and cassette because I felt guilty about my lack of servicing them, but afterwards, it was just as bad, if not worse. Then I kicked myself when I looked at the front sprocket and saw that it was like a saw blade.

 

Everything looks normal in the photos and you've checked the obvious, so I'm going to put my money on the front sprocket.

It may be the camera angle but the chain looks wider than it should be for a 9 speed cassette.

Maybe if so a new good quality 9 speed chain and cassette will sort it and if not it's not a waste of cash as you will need them eventually.

I've had derailleurs bent more than yours appears to be with no chain skipping though issues with indexing which I've fixed by judicious bending back by hand.

I'll bet the shop changes cassette, chain and derailleur and that will hopefully fix it.

9 speeds might be causing a problem with a single chain wheel up front as the cassette needs a narrow chain and sometimes a single chain wheel can be a bit wide for a narrow chain.

Dave.

The one thing nobody has mentioned is the front sprocket. When mine was jumping on all the gears, I replaced the chain and cassette because I felt guilty about my lack of servicing them, but afterwards, it was just as bad, if not worse. Then I kicked myself when I looked at the front sprocket and saw that it was like a saw blade.

 

Everything looks normal in the photos and you've checked the obvious, so I'm going to put my money on the front sprocket.

 

This is a new bike so it's unlikely that the chain-ring's teeth are so worn as to cause this problem. If the chain-ring has been bent and has a wobble then that could be responsible but it's more likely to be the rear Der hanger being out of true.

That said...everything is mere speculation until a mechanic first checks the basics.

What's going on with the diagonal marks on the chain? Certainly looks like its not indexed properly to me (or mech hanger is bent ). Speed sensor magnet could do with truing up too.

 

The marks on the chain might be due to my (fruitless) on the fly cable adjustments.

 

The bike has been dropped off at the shop so I'll update you all later.

 

Thanks again for everyone's input.

This is a new bike so it's unlikely that the chain-ring's teeth are so worn as to cause this problem. If the chain-ring has been bent and has a wobble then that could be responsible but it's more likely to be the rear Der hanger being out of true.

That said...everything is mere speculation until a mechanic first checks the basics.

How long does it to to check it? It's easy to eliminate it as a possible cause by checking it rather than gamble on it not being the cause by using probability.

I had same problem, frustrating that when you put power down there would be slippage. I ended up changing the chain and cassette which solved the problem. These bikes can put down (with your help) a lot of power and faster, so its inevitable that it will need more regular maintenance than a standard bike. I change my chain as and when it shows wear using the chain wear tool, this is cheaper than replacing cassette.

How long does it to to check it? It's easy to eliminate it as a possible cause by checking it rather than gamble on it not being the cause by using probability.

 

You talked about your chain-ring looking like a saw blade and presumably you meant the typical "shark's fin" profile which is caused by extensive wear. Given that this is a new bike it's very unlikely I would have thought that this is the cause and God knows I have changed hundred's of chain-sets with this damage caused by worn chains. It does seem sensible to assume that the cause of the problem lies elsewhere and in my experience would be found in a stiff link or the Der hanger being distorted and especially so given the bike has been delivered by carrier.

And the problem was.......

 

The cassette.

 

The shop was great. Checked all the usual suspects but nothing was out or made a difference.

 

Changed the cassette and suddenly all is well again.

 

I've no idea what they should look like so here's a picture of the critter.

That cassette looks OK to me. If you want, you can send it me. I'd gladly put it om my bike, and bet anything that it won't slip. In fact I'll pay for your new cassette if it does slip. Most likely, your gear indexing was just a bit out and they put that right when they installed the new cassette,

That cassette looks OK to me. If you want, you can send it me. I'd gladly put it om my bike, and bet anything that it won't slip. In fact I'll pay for your new cassette if it does slip. Most likely, your gear indexing was just a bit out and they put that right when they installed the new cassette,

 

I dunno. On closer inspection the little one looks a bit wobbly to me.

I dunno. On closer inspection the little one looks a bit wobbly to me.

 

The teeth are the same shape on the top gear when new. You said it was jumping on all the gears, didn't you:

New cassette? Has it the same ratios?

 

When on the small cog how many teeth are engaged on the chain now?

The teeth are the same shape on the top gear when new. You said it was jumping on all the gears, didn't you: [ATTACH=full]21231[/ATTACH]

Hey d8vey,

 

It jumped on all the gears I used (7-9 mostly). 7 sometimes, 8 a bit more, 9 constantly (unless cruising downhill)

 

As for how it looks, it doesn't look quite the same as this shiny new one.

 

On 9th gear, the teeth look more 'pointy' than on your picture and they've got rough/jaggy/burred edges. It also looks a bit weird as 4 of the teeth have been rubbed from black to shiny metal - the next 2 are still black - the next 3 are shiny - the next 2 are black.

 

On 8th it looks mostly brand new (as it flippin' should) - only a couple of teeth look a bit like 9th.

 

On 7th I can't see anything wrong.

 

If you'd like it to try, study or just for spares just PM me your address and I'll send it over. I've no use for it and I'm just so glad that my new bike is actually working properly now.

 

Thanks again

I see nothing wrong with the cassette or the sprocket...nor should there be after 300 miles. I'm surprised they didn't change the chain at the same time as the cassette as this is the usual practice in that a partly worn chain may give trouble with a new cassette.

It's a pity that you tend to use the small sprocket for most of the time as being small the sprocket will wear more quickly. A larger chain-ring would mitigate this and allow more use of the other sprockets increasing the life of the cassette.

Let's hope it does the trick and you have no more problems.

If the 11 or 12t does wear because it is use most often then they can be bought singularly to simply replace.

The teeth on the gears are not the same shape. You get conventional sprocket shaped ones, shark tooth ones and anything in between. Look at the tooth at 5 o'clock on the top sprocket, then look at the D marking next to it on the next one down, then at the two teeth either side of the D on the third sprocket. Compare them with the two adjacent teeth on the 4th sprocket. When you look closely, you'll see there's different shaped teeth all over the place. I used to sell these on Ebay, and guys used to tell me that I had sent them used ones or that they were faulty because of the strange-shaped teeth.

The teeth on the gears are not the same shape. You get conventional sprocket shaped ones, shark tooth ones and anything in between. Look at the tooth at 5 o'clock on the top sprocket, then look at the D marking next to it on the next one down, then at the two teeth either side of the D on the third sprocket. Compare them with the two adjacent teeth on the 4th sprocket. When you look closely, you'll see there's different shaped teeth all over the place. I used to sell these on Ebay, and guys used to tell me that I had sent them used ones or that they were faulty because of the strange-shaped teeth.

 

Shimano tells us that these different shaped teeth aid the gear-shifting in some way.

I know little or nothing about e-bikes but I take it that having a mid-engined bike means increased wear on the transmission parts?

Shimano tells us that these different shaped teeth aid the gear-shifting in some way.

I know little or nothing about e-bikes but I take it that having a mid-engined bike means increased wear on the transmission parts?

I have close to 2,500 miles on my Sduro Trekking. The original chain, cassette and chainrings are all still in great shape. I attribute this to a good maintenence schedule and the way I shift under power. I always ease up on the pedal pressure as the chain is moving from gear to gear. It took quite awhile to master this but it is paying dividends in reduced maintenance costs. Now if you were one that is using your bike hard underpower and not letting up, one should expect their drive train to wear more quickly. I certainly am not the athlete I use to be. I would have loved to have the types of Emtb's then we have today. I probably would have been chewing up a lot of drive train components.

 

Safe journeys all

Glad your bike back in shape hobbes..tis a royal pita tryin suss out whats going on with em ..sometimes...