Have done some service on my bike. First my Bosch CX-motor which I got a new from factory. While waiting for that one I "fixed" my rear derailleur once and for all with a SRAM EX1 upgrade kit. Derailleur/shifter/cassette/chain. Previously was a Shimano SLX 11-36T, stock 16T front sprocket remaining.

 

First I have to say some words of background here. On my bikes except the road bike I tend to use a wide range cassette with no front derailleur. Like the concept. Less things to bother with and since I live in quite hilly area it is good to have the range. So when I first read about this EX1-system I found that very interesting, the range and the less gears which I believe is good on an ebike where you don't have the same need for optimum cadence.

 

So now was the time then. Have never tried Sram so that was also a little fun with this all, to try a completely new system. The stuff came in plastic bags and not in some fancy box which I thought they should do

 

 

It was quite easy to upgrade, the instructions was great with good hints for getting all adjustables as they should. The shifter didn't fit on my stock brake handles which the SLX-shifter did. I had to use the included bracket and put it on the bar. Not a bad thing really, easier to adjust the position.

 

Have tried it a little yesterday and today and thought to write just a little about it.

 

First I have to say it felt quite natural from the beginning. I thought it would be very strange running the higher gears but it was ok. The shifter was the only thing I had to be careful with, shifting both up and down with the thumb was a new thing and sometimes I mixed up the buttons, which one was down now again? but it took just a little time to get used to.

 

So how was the gear range then!? 436% gear range! It was great having such a high gear as the 48T. Easy to climb a steep hill in low assist. Not like before where I used to increase the assist mode just to get up now I can just slowly pedal uphill. I used "Tour" on last ride, only that mode. Going up a steep hill in slow pace using only half the power from the motor (looking at the assist bar on the Intuvia display). I imagine the battery will last much longer when using it like that. And, as before, the lowest gear 11T is enough.

 

 

And what about the large 30% (average) steps between the gears, only 8 gears. Well, of course it's a compromise. I would never dream of having it on an unassisted road bike where you want an optimum cadence in all situations. You would never be satisfied there. But here, on an assisted mountainbike which you ride offroad with fast changing terrain and situations. It is very nice to quick go to a much higher or lower gear. Here you can only shift one gear at a time but even so you quick find the gear you need if you suddenly come to steep hill or a downhill trail.

Sometimes I found the step to be a little big and you had got too far on the gear range that you normally would have used. But that is to be expected and nothing that normally bothers you, instead you feel relieved all other times when you don't have too much gears to fiddle with. Here you get what you want, faster. Less is more. I like it. I didn't miss the double shift or even triple shift, that was good in steep uphills usually. This is more reliable, one shift and it's done.

 

 

Shifting performance then. Looking at the commercials they seem to have made a big thing about this. I thought it worked good but I am not that excited about it. A new drivetrain of some other good manufacturer would have performed good enough here also. But it was good, it shifts smooth and nice most of the times. The two lowest cogs, 11T/13T was an exception, here the chain doesn't roll on smooth, it kind of jumps into place.

 

The rear dearailleur was a high tech thing. It has some very overdesigned cable routing where it goes quarter past a roller wheel and then into a canal for getting to the end screw. It's nice looking at though but i wonder how it will perform after some rides in mud and dirt. Seems to be covered good though so that might not be a problem. It was very light considering it was a heftier piece of thing comparing to the stock SLX one. Some parts are made of plastic to save wheight. The lower jockey wheel is bigger than the upper. I had big problems with those jockey wheels on the stock one, they weared out fast, hope this system works better.

 

 

Speaking of wear. That is also one thing they speak themselfs warm off. How sturdy this EX1 system is and that it will last longer on an eMTB which driveline takes more abuse than on a regular MTB. That the manufacturers normally use standard components not made for eMTB's and that it should wear out fast. But this system is made for eMTB and thus better in this aspect. Well, time will see. They have a point, but I feel it might be a little marketing talk also. The chain is also a new extra sturdy one made for this system (it says on the cassette "Only use SRAM 10s chain" btw). Of course it's a difference between things and things. Let's just hope that these really are of the high quality kind.

Interesting also to see if the front sprocket will wear out faster now or if it eventually will last longer!? They also wear out "quite" fast I think, I am on my third extra expensive Haibike steel sprocket now.

 

Summary then. For me, the thing was wide gear range and fewer gears. I love that concept. The extra features like the shifter/perfomance and the eventual longer lasting time is only bonus. If I wouldn't have needed to replace some things I could just have bought a SunRace 11-46T cassette instead, have it on another ebike. But here you get a new system developed for this special purpose on an eMTB and also fewer gears to fiddle with. It costs a little, not very expensive as a whole package but when you need a new cassette you will cry. But hopefully it will last a while until the price has come down a little

why not 12spd eagle as whould of cost less and even more range ?

why not 12spd eagle as whould of cost less and even more range ?

don't want 12 speed! it would take precious milliseconds to get from your current gear to a climbing gear. I prefer less gears.

don't want 12 speed! it would take precious milliseconds to get from your current gear to a climbing gear. I prefer less gears.

it won at the Olympics lol

http://p.vitalmtb.com/photos/users/2/photos/109286/s780_Nino_Schurters_Olympic_Winning_Scott.jpg?1472665638

Have done some

and nice most of the times. The two lowest cogs, 11T/13T was an exception, here the chain doesn't roll on smooth, it kind of jumps into place.

 

 

That's interesting, as mine operates smoothly throughout the whole range. I shall make a point of now checking this though.

 

It is certainly an impressive system when it comes to changing gear under load, which is generally something that I prefer not to be doing, as it shouldn't be necessary if conditions and terrain have been correctly read, but with this system, it makes no difference and remains fluid and smooth.

it won at the Olympics lol

http://p.vitalmtb.com/photos/users/2/photos/109286/s780_Nino_Schurters_Olympic_Winning_Scott.jpg?1472665638

seriously!? congrats!! Well, you would have been even faster with the EX1!

 

We all have different taste. On the eagle you have good range but with more gears to get a better flow when constantly pedalling fast, as a champion would do. So that is a good thing also.

 

But hey buddy!! I see one minor detail with that bike. It's missing some vital part. Where is the motor!?

 

/edit: actually, having 30% steps between gears on an unassisted bike would be quite horrible! EX1 is for ebikes!

well im going eagle gx and will have 24 spd as got dual front sprockets when the time comes

 

i try not to change under load and same cassette since new in 2014

well im going eagle gx and will have 24 spd as got dual front sprockets when the time comes

 

i try not to change under load and same cassette since new in 2014

You really don't like compromises? [emoji2]

 

If I would have been using my MTB on roads much also I think that my old 10s cassette 11-36 paired with two front sprockets would have been very nice.

 

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk

ill take 1 more extra gear over having 3 less than what i got now as the xo 11spd is about the same as the 12spd eagle gx

 

i have a xd hub so id need to change that for the ex1 just seems going backwards and get less for even more cash lol.

Next month I hope to grab a Sunrace 11-40 8 speed wide range for the trike.

 

I ran the numbers on a Rohloff with 13 tooth sprocket on the hub with double chainring 32-48 on the front, it gives 17 to 140 gear inches! OK the 140 looks silly but on a trike or vélomobile you can pull those big gears downhill.

That's interesting, as mine operates smoothly throughout the whole range. I shall make a point of now checking this though.

 

It is certainly an impressive system when it comes to changing gear under load, which is generally something that I prefer not to be doing, as it shouldn't be necessary if conditions and terrain have been correctly read, but with this system, it makes no difference and remains fluid and smooth.

Eddie hows chain lasting with EX1?.

 

Currently getting around 800km out of kmc e11spd on XT drivetrain. That is lot offroad riding with big climbs.

 

The extra low gear is big plus, having gone from 15t chainring and 42t cassette to 14t chainring and 46t sunrace cassette. I can now plod happily up steep climb in eco at 5-7km/h while accompanying unassisted riders or climb with power off on moderate slopes. NB tend to avoid using 46t as much as possible as its alloy, for most climbing steel 40T is low enough.

I was just thinking a couple of days ago, that I really need to pull the bike down thoroughly to give it once over, and also to swap the chain over on a rotation system. I have absolutely no idea how many miles that the bike has now done, but I have a feeling that the chain is doing really well. I'll let you know for sure at some stage over the next week.

I was just thinking a couple of days ago, that I really need to pull the bike down thoroughly to give it once over, and also to swap the chain over on a rotation system. I have absolutely no idea how many miles that the bike has now done, but I have a feeling that the chain is doing really well. I'll let you know for sure at some stage over the next week.

don't you log in Strava? I use to put in all bike parts there as well, so you can see how long your new chain has rolled, and the whole bike nice to know.

Well I did just the opposite to Deere John and swapped out my EX1 Groupset for Shimano XT. I do all kind of biking from red/black forest trails to canal paths and Sustrans routes. I could never get on with the large steps in the gearing, mostly never finding a comfortable cadence on the flat. Eventually I bent the rear mech. with a not too hard a knock.

Tried everything to re-align but without success. By this time both rear cassette and front Bosch cog were wearing. The price of £475 for the 11 - 48 and £125 for the rear mech made it an easy decision to swap to the XT's.

From the off the gearing was a lot smoother and comfortable with the 11 speed 11-46.

That was on a Trek Powerfly 9 which I had stolen a couple of months ago. I now have a Cube which is all Shimano.

It wouldn't do for us all to think the same.Good luck with the EX1.

don't you log in Strava?

 

Not as much as I used to. I seem to go through phases of using it, then not bother for a while.

 

I guess that I could just look on the bike though.

 

Ref the jumping down of the last two high gears, you are spot on. For some reason I had never noticed that one before, but it isn't very often that I hit those two gears with my riding.

 

 

BazP, thanks for the interesting reading, and your findings fit in very well with my love/hate relationship with the system in respect of the large steps in gearing. It can be pretty frustrating at times.

Alright, it has finally happened. Today the derailleur wire got swiped off. I was riding in a tight spot and scratched a rock. Nothing happenend. Until I got home and saw the wire sheared off. I was wondering when something like this might happen because the wire is pointing right outwards or maybe I have installed it wrong? It seems very odd when thinking of the very thought out way off wire-routing here otherwise, but not the final piece it seems.

 

 

Also this clutch has ceased to work. The clutch that are supposed to prevent chain slam (and chain suck on Bosch). It doesn't work anymore. I can lock it in forward position but the roller bearing seems to have rolled away!? Anyone else?

Well I did just the opposite to Deere John and swapped out my EX1 Groupset for Shimano XT. I do all kind of biking from red/black forest trails to canal paths and Sustrans routes. I could never get on with the large steps in the gearing, mostly never finding a comfortable cadence on the flat. Eventually I bent the rear mech. with a not too hard a knock.

Tried everything to re-align but without success. By this time both rear cassette and front Bosch cog were wearing. The price of £475 for the 11 - 48 and £125 for the rear mech made it an easy decision to swap to the XT's.

From the off the gearing was a lot smoother and comfortable with the 11 speed 11-46.

That was on a Trek Powerfly 9 which I had stolen a couple of months ago. I now have a Cube which is all Shimano.

It wouldn't do for us all to think the same.Good luck with the EX1.

Totally agree, i can't tell you how many different brands, ratios and exotic gearing i've tried. Keep coming back to good old shimano xt.

I've discovered recently that CX needs new chainring with each chain. Replaced chain and it sounded like tractor till replace chainring. At €9 for Connex chainring its not that big a deal and may workout cheaper than ebikes with fullsize chainrings. This would've explained why my 2nd chain didn't last as long as first.

 

Yet to find out what is best ratio of new chains to cassettes but hoping for 3 chains and chainrings per cassette and derailleur idlers.

 

Running last chain and drivetrain into ground in theory is good idea, alot riders on unassisted bikes do it. Unfortunately this is not really an option on CX drive unless you like your drive locking up with chain suck.

 

I did think EX1 would be better drive system and maybe cheaper than XT to run but not so sure anymore. XT original and aftermarket parts are affordable and easy to come by. I do like having close ratios of sunrace 11-46t especially around lower 3 gears.

FWIW, I've found SRAM cassettes to last nearly forever if not physically damaged. I regularly replace chain + chainring (aftermarket chainrings + OEM chain) as a pair, and have had good success. I have EX1 on my KTM bike and have had generally positive experiences thus far. A little bit of drivetrain noise if not adjusted precisely, but reliable shifting.

It doesn't like snow too much. Not when it gets wet also. Have never had a derailleur fail so quick in these conditions before. Must be some kind of record!

 

The jockey wheels gets clogged with snow, and then chain slips, and this bracket underneath breaks off. And whole derailleur gets bent also. Everything is happening because of each other and it will fail in the end. BUT... I cleaned everything and bent it back and it works now just that I have to be careful when chain is slipping of lowest jockey wheel because if it does something will fail badly. The clutch is broken since long but the tension force is quite strong so it actually works quite ok anyway.

One of my pet hates about any SRAM rear derailleur, is the jockey wheels.

Every SRAM system that I have used, without exception, has given me grief with clogging. Be that mud, grass, bracken, twigs, snow, whatever. Riding locally, I usually have to stop at least once on every ride to clear them.

Something that I have never yet had to do with any Shimano rear derailleur.

 

Like you, I have also become very aware of the fact the cage on the EX1 is dreadfully weak. I'm certain that they make them from cheese.

 

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Edited November 26, 20178 yr by EddiePJ

To be fair, very few drivetrains or clipless pedals function well in the "dead zone" just below freezing, where snow and moisture ice up. Those days are perfect for a singlespeed with flat pedals. ;-)

Before I switched chainguard locking ring on CX to basic locking nut, I had a couple of bad chain suck incidents where chain well and truely jammed up around chainring. Only solution in middle of nowhere was to stand on lower chain. The XT derailleur held up to this abuse very well.

Unfortunately chain suck is going to happen sooner or later with CX, I learnt to always make sure to leave clutch engaged after cleaning. Was made worse by Cube's silly plastic engine cover design, which gives chain something jam against.

 

I'm can't fault XT for its reliable service under worst abuse and conditions. Even in worst mud XT hasn't caused a problem.

 

In regards to SRAM the mail order shops like bike.discounts will not sell SRAM and Rockshock offshore. SRAM policy which I understand and don't disagree with, but means having to pay dearer local prices. For lot of parts there are good aftermarket alternatives but sometimes you have to buy original parts.

Ordered spares for the EX1 derailleur. But I will not give this system a second chance. Had a look at Shimano 9s with a SunRace wide cassette (11-40T). It will work with my stock Shimano 10s derailleur but I need a 9s Sram-shifter for it, which can be found cheap! Just ordered those two things. Will be nice I think, some people say 9S is the most bullet-proof design and with Sram you can get a grip shifter also. Combined with a 10S Shimano derailleur with working clutch. When stock gives up I will buy a Saint with OneUp Radr cage upgrade from start. That seems to be a very nice option.

Ordered spares for the EX1 derailleur. But I will not give this system a second chance. Had a look at Shimano 9s with a SunRace wide cassette (11-40T). It will work with my stock Shimano 10s derailleur but I need a 9s Sram-shifter for it, which can be found cheap! Just ordered those two things. Will be nice I think, some people say 9S is the most bullet-proof design and with Sram you can get a grip shifter also. Combined with a 10S Shimano derailleur with working clutch. When stock gives up I will buy a Saint with OneUp Radr cage upgrade from start. That seems to be a very nice option.

The 40t combined with 14t on CX should be enough for steepest hills. Having derailleur clutch is must with CX drive. Cassettes and chains for 9spd are cheap plus they give better mileage than 10 and 11spd. If you can make it work I'd say you are onto a winner.

 

Hang onto EX1, would be worth fitting for a Alps trip.