hi all yesterday I tried a couple of hills on my bosch active line ebike.

 

hill A I came to a stop just short of the top, hill B slowed to 7mph and over the top with loads of traffic behind me.

 

today tried the same on my 350w yosepower/elife kit with shunt mod. hill A just about got over the top.

hill; B a bit easier 11mph tried a different hill went up ok all this is with pas 5.

 

then tried short steepish hill moter protesting a bit, go over brow of hill and find

I have no pas or throttle, controller felt very hot.

 

the lcd3 is active and shows no error codes. but I notice battery level indicator shows nothing, (it should be at 2 bars) also the mph readout remains dormant at zero.

 

checked cables etc can find nothing .

 

this results in 2.5 hours of me walking/pushing/ and on downward bits actually cycling the 5 miles home.

tried different battery still the same.

I assume controller has been fried. would there be any obvious sighns if I look a the capacitors.

 

thanks all

Does it smell of burning or reminiscent of the old caps smell when you was a kid ?

Capacitors will be unaffected as higher voltage will pop them the main inrush one is 50v rated, most probably a fet issue or a resistor has failed. Chances are the shunt mod might have been to much and drew to many amps.

 

If it is fried time to go/use dual voltage controller, though if you need I can sell you my unused Yose controller with Julets.

 

With all my controllers I fit an inline fuse between battery so only frying is said fuse, only happened once to me with the bpm, Lishui combo when the controller got hot.

How much solder did you add? 20% of the length is normally a safe maximum.

 

The LCDs work independently from the controller and cannot be damaged by load, so most likely is still OK. The controllers themselves are not expensive. A blown MOSFET could cause the problem you have. You check them by measuring the resistance between each phase wire and the positive battery wire, and again from each to the negative wire - obviously with the controller completely disconnected.

hi all yesterday disconnected /reconnected cables, lcd display briefly showed battery level. tried throttle intermitant noise from moter or controller

nothing working, lcd ok

 

as regards shunt mod think I am round about 20% as regards adding solder.

looking inside of controller it seems the solder might have melted and formed a (blob) on circuit board, left hand side of shunt, solder was added.

 

as regards mosfets have no idea what they are or how exactly I measure them.

red lead from multimeter to red xt60 side of battery controller lead?

 

no idea where the resistance setting is on multimeter or which hole the probes go in.

 

cannot see anything obvious looking inside controller.

 

nealh I would be interested in buying your 15ah julet controller.

 

any link to inline fuse that I could fit and where in the circuit do I fit it

 

thanks again

Edited April 20, 20188 yr by footpump

Solder has most like shorted the circuit board or that mosfet nearest to the shunt. Should have soldered the rhs of the shunt where the melted solder would have done no damage. Looking at the shunt it appears to have been soldered by 50%.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Standard-Blade-Fuse-Holder-Splash-Proof-30A-12-AWG-Cable-In-Line-Car-Auto/111384833933?hash=item19ef0daf8d:g:ppgAAOSwX~dWoNBN

 

Splice it into the pos feed between controller and battery.

Edited April 20, 20188 yr by Nealh

.

 

as regards mosfets have no idea what they are or how exactly I measure them.

red lead from multimeter to red xt60 side of battery controller lead?

 

no idea where the resistance setting is on multimeter or which hole the probes go in.

 

Probes go in the two rhs holes. Set it to 20K.

thanks d8veh and nealh

fuse ordered.

assuming I am testing controller mosfets correctly?

black probe to com/red to vma, meter set to 20k

red probe to xt60 battery lead + black probe to the 9 hole female lead which contains the yellow/red/blue wires , left hand side of controller near the 6 mosfets.

 

measuring clockwise from the hole adjacent to the arrow on the cable I get a reading on all 9 holes jullet cable, swopping black lead to negative battery cable and remeasuring I get readings its only the center hole that shows 000.

 

having tried remeasuring all holes multimeter seems stuck on 1

 

I assume the fuse goes on the controller to battery cable see pic

hi all I removed blob of solder from controller circuit board, lcd now shows battery level,

trying throttle there is a clicking noise from rear hub moter as if its trying to turn , a bit like a starter moter on a car trying to start with a flat battery.

 

so moter might be nackered not sure how I can check it? as controller might still be at faulty

As you have the controller open, put the red probe where the red battery wire is soldered and the black one where the blue, green and yellow phase wires are soldered. Write down the three readings. repeat but with the red probe where the black battery wire is soldered. Post the results here.

thanks d8veh meter set to 20k

red probe on black soldered battery wire gave a reading of 9.8 each for blue/green yellow.

I remeasured and it reads 4.4 for the 3 wires.

 

red probe to red soldered wire and checking the 3 phase wires seemed to give nothing meter reads 1

1 is a dead short (?) = blown mosfets. They should be in the range 7K to 14K and each of the three should be the same.

1 is a dead short (?) .

 

Its the opposite. 1 when in resistance mode is open circuit or resistance outside range.

i take it then controller is kaput?

i take it then controller is kaput?

According to your measurements, yes.

i have a kt 15amp controller from my ebc kit, which has 6 mosfets and not modded, non jullet conecters.

testing this black - lead to black battery lead meter at 20k y/g/b hall wires read 9.14

reversing this red + to red battery lead and halls still getting meter reading 1

 

 

controller should be ok, cannot find a descent utube vid on ebike mosfet testing

http://www.ebikes.ca/learn/troubleshooting.html

 

Above link for testing controller issues in PDF form.

Good text and pics.

thanks nealh trying the (good) controller 200k or diode mode the ground /black /negative side to r/g/y hall all show 1, 9.8 on power side.

 

the controller that ceased to function shows 9.8 on black/ground/neg side.

 

still shows 1 on red+ to g/y/b halls

found a test procedure booklet from my ebc kit.

using there method of mosfet testing I tried on good controller reading b/y/g

was about 5.12

 

trying on the controller which does not work b/g show 5.12 y is 1 so assume that's the blown mosfet

Yes.