November 15, 20187 yr My controller is 13 amps, I believe my battery is rated 19 amos. Is there much to be gained from soldering the shunt or is it marginal difference?
November 15, 20187 yr You won't gain any more top speed, but you will improve hill climbing performance and the ability to maintain speed over undulating terrain. Don't expect miracles with a 13 amp rated controller though. Best to add a small amount of solder, then test. Some controllers don't like it if you go too far with the solder.
November 15, 20187 yr Author You won't gain any more top speed, but you will improve hill climbing performance and the ability to maintain speed over undulating terrain. Don't expect miracles with a 13 amp rated controller though. Best to add a small amount of solder, then test. Some controllers don't like it if you go too far with the solder. Doesn't matter, I already tried it and it went boom! On closer inspection looks like a rogue blob dropped down and shorted the whole thing out, oops! :D:D
November 15, 20187 yr Oops New uprated controller is the way to go. Maybe 20 amp rated with your battery.
November 15, 20187 yr Author Oops New uprated controller is the way to go. Maybe 20 amp rated with your battery. I think 20 amp would trip the BMS. I only wanted to go like 15/16. Saying that some are configurable. I also need it to be pretty small. Have a basic spare without display that has thankfully fired up once I figured the wiring so at least I have power...
November 15, 20187 yr I think 20 amp would trip the BMS Whoops, skimmed your first post and read as 19Ah battery. My bad
November 15, 20187 yr Author Which make of controller / LCD are you using. Crappy brainpower one off eBay, LCD m5
November 15, 20187 yr KT lcd3 and controller will set you back about £80. You can buy the cheaper lcd1 or 2 but the 3 gives you more parameters to fiddle with and one of the important ones is controller amps, you can adjust them down ( approx. by 5 amps) to suit your needs so no worry if you get a 17 or 20a controller and don't need all them's amps.
November 16, 20187 yr Author I've just went for the same one because it's cheap and can take a 48v. If I decided to mod the shunt is there any way I can guard from this happening again? Something to catch any drip? More likely after this experience I'll just wait until I can get a 48v battery
November 16, 20187 yr If I decided to mod the shunt is there any way I can guard from this happening again? Something to catch any drip? More likely after this experience I'll just wait until I can get a 48v battery Go easy on the solder use a thinner core solder, with the lid off and proper access try a bit of kitchen towel to prevent drips /splatter affecting other components or tracks. Add a bit try it/ride it & add more if needed to max of 25/30% of shunt, typically solder the rhs leg of the shunt on the v- away from the fets side of the controller. Show a pic of the shunt you modded so we can see what/where went wrong. Edited November 16, 20187 yr by Nealh
November 16, 20187 yr Author Go easy on the solder use a thinner core solder, with the lid off and proper access try a bit of kitchen towel to prevent drips /splatter affecting other components or tracks. Add a bit try it/ride it & add more if needed to max of 25/30% of shunt, typically solder the rhs leg of the shunt on the v- away from the fets side of the controller. Show a pic of the shunt you modded so we can see what/where went wrong. I've chucked it. Basically a bit dripped onto the base of the shunt that I didn't see and it shorted out against some tiny component that was under it, melting a hole though the board
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