Controllers with the flat connector for the halls aren't that common, and even if you did find one, many of the other connectors wouldn't match. Look back at post #15. I still stand by that advice and recommend it as the best option. Apart from installing the new PAS and speed sensor, you have to cut the hall sensor connectors off and solder the wires directly together and insulate with heatshrink sleeves.

 

You have a special LED panel that won't work with most controllers, so if you do go for a cheap one, you have to buy one with an LED panel.

fault finding on bikes with LED panel:

 

1. unplug pedal assist sensor and brake switches

2. test the motor with just the throttle

 

If test passes, connect the brake switches then retest

if test passes, connect the pedal sensor then retest

 

Fault finding on bikes with LCD:

1. unplug pedal assist sensor, throttle and brake switches

2. press and hold the - button to test the motor in walk mode

 

If test passes, connect the brake switches then retest

if test passes, connect the throttle then retest

if test passes, connect the pedal sensor then retest

He's already determined that he has a blown mosfet in the controller. His bike is different to most in that his LED panel converts the PAS signal into a throttle signal, which means that some of your procedure is not valid.

He's already determined that he has a blown mosfet in the controller. His bike is different to most in that his LED panel converts the PAS signal into a throttle signal, which means that some of your procedure is not valid.

at the time of my post, he has not been able to identified the fault on his controller.

 

This confirmed that the controller on my wife’s bike is faulty.

 

What caused it to fail is not so clear. It could be: (1) break down of an internal component alone, or (2) possibly in combination with a failure in the connected electrical equipment (motor, wiring etc.)

I think it is most likely to be (1). Are there any tests I can do to establish whether it is (2)?

at the time of my post, he has not been able to identified the fault on his controller.

Sorry, I have three different versions of the page open, so on one it looked like yours was the last post.

In post 24, fault 4, you refer to the problem of high power selection and slow bike speed leading to MOSFET failure. It appears from this that exchanging the failed controller for a similar design unit would leave me with a replacement unit also prone to MOSFET failure.

 

Would a more modern controller such as you have recommended (post 15), avoid this problem?

 

I ask because we live in a particularly hilly area for which HI power selection and slow bike speed are an unavoidable and frequent occurrence.

 

Your comments welcomed.

Controllers come in differing case sizes, the large the case the more fets. More mosfets will deal with the higher amp load that can be applied as well as dealing with greater heat issues. Typically sensored ones use 6 fets for controllers rated up to 20a or non-sensored use 9 fets. A 22/25a sensored controller uses 9 fets so can handle the amp draw/heat better, the larger controllers will use 12 fets or more. There is no reason why you can't use a better higher rated controller esp if able to limit the amp draw via lcd3 as in the case with using KT stuff so that you don't draw more then the battery can supply.

 

Even the popular well used 6 fet KT suffers from heat if used in high power /slow speed, the unit will cut out by way of thermal cut out until it cools down. The cut out is the fets getting to hot and temporarily they short out when their max op temp is reached, they switch again once cooled cool down. My answer has been to upgrade to a 9 fet controller to help eradicate the problem and so far it has not arisen.

Long term heat damage will cause a/the fet/s to fail rendering the bike albeit dead until controller is replaced.

Thanks for the info'/advice.

Have frequently experienced the thermal cutting in/out on the Isle of Skye's hills. Indications of trouble to come!

Having had to "shoehorn" a 6 x MOSFET unit plus wires and connectors into the existing housing (see sketch below) seems unlikely it will accommodate a 9 x MOSFET unit.

Maybe you have/know of a ready made solution?

Your comments welcomed

(And if not: we are moving home to a less hilly area, so am minded to stick with what we have, and picking less demanding routes. Disappointing, but less demanding than embarking on a D-I-Y solution involving waterproofing and re-wiring!)

 

It won't fit, and what's more, it might not work with your battery anyway. I'd go for the 17 amp one from PSWPower. The extra two amps or whatever it is will give you a bit more speed up the hills.

Noted thanks

Will get the PSW controller and bits, and take it - with help - from there..........................

Firstly must apologise for going off line for a while, but got swamped with domestic imperatives various, so regret bike problem had to go to the back burner.

 

Time not entirely wasted, as was able to draw up the attached wiring diagram. Thought this might help in the process of resolving which connectors go where etc., when exchanging the Freego and WSP units.

 

Will be in touch once I have the WSP controller and accessories

Freego cct diaag0001.pdf

STOP PRESS: Have located a TV electrician who thinks he may be able to replace the damaged MOSFET.

Not too sure of a successful outcome, but seemed worth a try, so purchase of the PSW Power unit on hold for now

It would have been better to show individual wires in your diagram because when you clump them together in a single line, it doesn't show the unique way that the LED panel converts the pedal assist signal into a throttle signal.

 

You have about a 50/50 chance of success by replacing the blown MOSFET. Good luck!

Your 50/50 well founded! All the LEDs lit up, but that was it!

 

Can but agree re the wiring diagram, but limited it to what I could see as a reasonable basis for identifying a need to dismantle further if/when need arises.

 

Before ordering same, grateful some more advice on the PSW controllers: the 15A unit comes with a full selection of additional features (in particular: throttle; speed; brake & PAS), where as the 17A (preferred - see 33 above) offers only throttle OR PAS.

64$ question is which to get? And with what addition(s)?

You need the LCD and the wheel speed sensor. Both controllers should work with your PAS and throttle. Their ones have the right connectors and guarantee compatibility. I always think that they're so cheap when you buy them with the controller that they're always worth buying in case of any problems, and they're always useful as spares.

 

The 15 amp one is 24v/36v and the 17A one is 36v/48v. Apart from that, the listings are identical. I don't know which ones you've been looking at.

 

http://www.pswpower.com/ven.php?cargo.2016-3f-3f7c

 

http://www.pswpower.com/ven.php?cargo.2016-3f-39n8

And the good news is: repeated the installation/connection process for the repaired controller and it worked!

Awaiting opportunity to give the bike a thorough test run, but so far looking good. Will report outcome

£75 + £5 postage on eBay. seller: atman-freego

Apologies for the long delay in reporting.

Finally got a test run in yesterday over 20 miles of Skye's best up and downs.

Glad to report the repaired controller worked perfectly.

Many thanks to all who provided such detailed advice and guidance on candidate solutions, and how best to achieve them.

What/which controller did you settle on ?

The original!

The controller failure was due to a failed MOSFET, and I located an Electrical/Electronic Technician on Skye who offered to try replacing it (see post 35). He did and it worked........

Hello, I wasn't sure if I should make my own topic or just bump this one. My fathers Freego has got the same issue. It looks like the controller has died. As per the link earlier, would this still be a good replacement to get? http://www.pswpower.com/ven.php?cargo.2016-3f-3f7c

Hello, I wasn't sure if I should make my own topic or just bump this one. My fathers Freego has got the same issue. It looks like the controller has died. As per the link earlier, would this still be a good replacement to get? http://www.pswpower.com/ven.php?cargo.2016-3f-3f7c

Yes and no. It'll almost certainly work better than the previous one, but it's not a plug-and-play replacement. You'll have to rip out all the previous electrics and wire in the new parts. You'll have to do some soldering to a couple of the connectors too.

Yes and no. It'll almost certainly work better than the previous one, but it's not a plug-and-play replacement. You'll have to rip out all the previous electrics and wire in the new parts. You'll have to do some soldering to a couple of the connectors too.

 

That's not a problem I can manage that, just wanted to make sure it would work. But I would be putting that whole kit on the bike instead, the only remaining original parts would be the motor and battery so I cant imagine there's going to be much chopping to do.

 

A quick question about the PAS sensor. I assume this is the pedal assist detection? Which is better, dual hall or ten poles? From the price, i assume dual halls is better?

 

Thank you very much.

If you want one that works, get the 10 poles one.

 

For your new kit, it's best to get LCD3, 10 poles PAS, thumb throttle and external speed sensor. You don't need brakes as it's simple to wire yours in.

 

If you think that later you might want to go up to 48v, get the 36v/48v version of the controller., then when your battery wears out, you can get a 48v one and enjoy more power and speed options.

If you want one that works, get the 10 poles one.

 

For your new kit, it's best to get LCD3, 10 poles PAS, thumb throttle and external speed sensor. You don't need brakes as it's simple to wire yours in.

 

If you think that later you might want to go up to 48v, get the 36v/48v version of the controller., then when your battery wears out, you can get a 48v one and enjoy more power and speed options.

 

Thanks i'll get the 10 pole.

 

Unfortunately my father likes the LED display, being in his 70s he prefers it simple. I'll try and convince him but I think he won't want an LCD display.

 

Thanks for your help.

Thanks i'll get the 10 pole.

 

Unfortunately my father likes the LED display, being in his 70s he prefers it simple. I'll try and convince him but I think he won't want an LCD display.

 

Thanks for your help.

Do not get a LED display. they only work on ones where you have the parameters programmed correctly.