they could of done but it is not meant for mtbs and only that group set.

 

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/sram-pc-1130-11-speed-chain/?lang=en&curr=GBP&dest=1&sku=5360650902&kpid=5360650902&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Shopping+-+All+Products&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mckv|sEq5YQbCv_dc|mcrid|295292317327|mkw||mmt||mrd|5360650902uk|mslid||&mkwid=sEq5YQbCv_dc&pcrid=295292317327&prd=5360650902uk&pgrid=58852352866&ptaid=pla-522506124930&gclid=CjwKCAjw8qjnBRA-EiwAaNvhwNcud0FI4BQApS6IPZ9VFMmu4bI1NtpQOsv86CBwG8dKVoB_2uedlBoCxu4QAvD_BwE

 

https://www.highonbikes.com/sram-rival-22-road-bike-groupset-gxp-11-speed.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw8qjnBRA-EiwAaNvhwBGXImC8EeXniPSxoevhmySLI2Hr5z14FvknrkdoAexEPWQKU8kVDBoCYNoQAvD_BwE

OK, thanks. So it looks like I bought the wrong chain. Any idea which chain i would need please?

 

Cubes website says the cassette on my bike is a Shimano SLX CS-M7000 cassette 11-46

https://www.vanillabikes.com/products/shimano-slx-m7000-1-x-11-transmission-groupset?variant=5029575032863&dfw_tracker=977-5029575032863&gclid=CjwKCAjw8qjnBRA-EiwAaNvhwAnhORkp5gzmNimVWBWqmK5n5u4MwChX1feqKhYhRTA-Z10AgdPdxhoCwukQAvD_BwE

https://www.vanillabikes.com/products/shimano-slx-m7000-1-x-11-transmission-groupset?variant=5029575032863&dfw_tracker=977-5029575032863&gclid=CjwKCAjw8qjnBRA-EiwAaNvhwAnhORkp5gzmNimVWBWqmK5n5u4MwChX1feqKhYhRTA-Z10AgdPdxhoCwukQAvD_BwE

 

Thanks soundwave.

 

Your link shows the SLX groups, but mine is the XT Deore, but they seem to share the same SLX M7000 cassette. If so, it looks like the chain I need could be a CN-HG601-11.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Shimano-SHIM-CHAIN-HG601-QUICK/dp/B01MFZXNT2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=CN-HG601-11&qid=1558892979&s=sports&sr=1-4-catcorr

Edited May 26, 20196 yr by The Bear

its that or this

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-ultegra-6800-xt-m8000-hg701-qlink-chain/rp-prod170322

Ok, thanks. So is there a way of working out which size chain is needed?

 

I did look but couldn't see the tried and tested method mentioned.

 

1. Take a length of chain and ignoring the derailleur, wrap it around the largest chainring at the front and the largest sprocket at the rear.

 

2. Pull it tight to see where the nearest rivet you could join it is. Mark that .

 

3. Count 2 links extra. That's your optimal chain length.

I did look but couldn't see the tried and tested method mentioned.

 

1. Take a length of chain and ignoring the derailleur, wrap it around the largest chainring at the front and the largest sprocket at the rear.

 

2. Pull it tight to see where the nearest rivet you could join it is. Mark that .

 

3. Count 2 links extra. That's your optimal chain length.

 

Thanks, Ive also seen that method on Park Tools Youtube page.

 

Looks like I've got the correct length chain, but the wrong type of chain.

Edited May 27, 20196 yr by The Bear

but I just can't see what could be wrong with the new one??

 

 

Heres the new chain at the front...

 

[ATTACH type=full" alt="30600]30600[/ATTACH]

 

 

I'm going to say that there is a high probability that what's happening is that the front sprocket has worn too much to be compatible with the brand new chain (it will work fine with the old, stretched chain though).

It looks as if when you're pedaling, chain suck is pulling the chain upwards, and then instead of lying below the chainstay, its being dragged above.

Unfortunately, you probably have to replace the front sprocket as well.

 

Do a google on bosch chain suck and see if that's what's happening to yours. I had to replace my front sprocket at around 2500 miles because of this.

 

PS. forget any fancy way of measuring correct chain length. That's for when you are building up something custom and/or don't have an original chain! Just get the old chain and measure the links. The individual link length is the same on all chain makes.

Thanks GLJoe, I guess when I had the new cassette and chain fitted I should have had a new front sprocket too.

if you get one of these you can run 2 front sprockets

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BCR-70e-Sprocket-Electric-Bike-E-Bike-E-Bike-Cog-Sprocket-18-Tooth/113706499804?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3D9f4437ec6b8e4c9eb717bef6f2e78d24%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D113267521354%26itm%3D113706499804&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

 

size is 14t-20t

I'm going to say that there is a high probability that what's happening is that the front sprocket has worn too much to be compatible with the brand new chain (it will work fine with the old, stretched chain though).

It looks as if when you're pedaling, chain suck is pulling the chain upwards, and then instead of lying below the chainstay, its being dragged above.

Unfortunately, you probably have to replace the front sprocket as well

 

This Amazon review of the Bosch Locking Spider tool agrees with you..

 

....it's a required tool with how quickly bosch powered bikes go through chains (and you need to change the ring when you change chain of you get horrible chainsuck.

 

You can flip the front sprocket to extend its life somewhat. Not the same as a new one but better. I do it regularly.

Thanks GLJoe, I guess when I had the new cassette and chain fitted I should have had a new front sprocket too.

 

Probably. But then one isn't to know for sure until you try it and you find the chain suck happens (although there might be an argument that even if it doesn't, the fact that the chain is worn and needs replacing means the front sprocket is also worn, and thus is probably prematurely wearing the NEW chain !?!).

Its because the Bosch CX type chainring is so small - all the wear is concentrated on only a few teeth.

 

Interestingly, I've also had chain suck on my wife's bike when I changed the chain - but that one has a Yamaha motor, and the (large) front chainring was fine, it was the smaller cogs on the rear cassette that gave the problem.

Its stuff like this they tend not to tell you in the 'reviews' ....

Decided buy a bigger front sprocket and so purchased the necessary tools to change it - crank puller and Chainring lock tool. Took the crank arm and sprocket off my bike, unwrapped the new sprocket, and dropped it. Its a strange feeling watching a brand new front sprocket bounce on the floor and fall down the drain. Got the wife to put her arm don to try and retrieve it, put she couldn't get it.

 

Another new sprocket ordered!

 

Bought the tools from Amazon..

 

Draper crank puller £7.96

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00HNUYN44/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

 

IceToolz lockring tool £16.23

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07B49PPL8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Connex 17T sprocket

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NZ51HK4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1