It tells you if you scroll down the page 5v - 24v input so yes with 24v output.

I'm not great with electronics, terrible in fact - if none of you eletro boffins can see anything wrong with trying this out, I'll just buy it because it avoids my having to learn anything new, or indeed attempt soldering, which nearly always goes badly.

 

The green "Brake light signal output" - I'm guessing that needs to be connected to the black wire (the black of the red and black pair) for the rear light?

I've ordered it, let's see if it works as advertised. Via Speedpak, about two weeks.

I'd like to install an inline fuse - where would be the best location and which ampage of use should I use? I'm thinking of putting it on the black wire, where the big yellow arrow is pointing:

 

 

 

 

...or should it go on the red wire? Sorry, I'm a bit hopeless with electronics, but the main reason why I'd like to make sure of avoiding moisture caused short circuit problems is because a couple of weeks ago, the entire motor was briefly submerged in water due to a sudden short thunderstorm and I found myself in a large puddle deep enough to cover both pedals of the bike. If it hadn't had been an ebike, I couldn't have pedalled my way through... but it powered ahead making a bow wave. I've got video of it somewhere, the motor and some connectors were completely submerged in dirty water for about 15 seconds - I worried that the controller inside the motor might have been soaked and damaged, but there's no external sign of that ... I dried the bike out ASAP next to a radiator for a day. A bit of water dripped out of the motor while it dried, but the bike still works great. I think that covering all of the connectors with self amalgamating rubber tape prevented short circuits, which brings me back to why I want an inline fuse on this device: that looks like that's only heatshrink covering the "Power module", so when it arrives, I'll put that in a little (aluminium, for cooling, if I can find a very small one) waterproof box.

 

Would one of these quick blow fuses be suitable?

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/362734589140

 

...it shouldn't be drawing more than 3A with those lights (5W+5W+3W), therefore a 3A fuse?

 

Inline fuse holder:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252434238239?hash=

 

Do Bafang cover their bbs01b controller circuit boards with silicone? My washing machine controller has a thick layer of some sort of clear silicone (or other plastic) all over it, bloody good idea - it's been functioning perfectly for 10 years, apart from a house move dislodging a wire which frayed (jolted out of a plastic retaining clip during the move) while on spin cycles, intermittently flaying about as it did so and touching the metal shell causing a short, but I digress (it's fixed [soldered{badly}]).

Edited September 17, 20214 yr by guerney

Fuse on the Red v+, other wise the current will keep popping the fuse on the Black v-.

 

The Bafang's are potted completely in a Grey silicone.

Fuse on the Red v+ is usually normal.

 

The Bafang's are potted completely in a Grey silicone.

 

Thank you, that's good to know - electronics are not my forte, but neither is laying down loft insulation, but I did that yesterday. Thank goodness for Dysons and HEPA filters is all I can say...

Look for mini/micro blade inline fuse holder.

Look for mini/micro blade inline fuse holder.

 

Are those quick blow fuses? I couldn't find a micro blade fuse for 36V, at any amp, or doesn't the voltage matter?

The 12v car ones work fine.

The 12v car ones work fine.

 

That's great, also because there are waterproof blade fuse holders available.

This mount works very well indeed - can be adjusted precisely on the handlebar:

 

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/lighting-spares/schmidt-handlebar-fitting-dynamo-headlamp-bracket/

 

I plan to have three in total (for now), two on the handlebar and one in the fork.

Edited September 26, 20214 yr by guerney

Ideally, I'd like the two on the handlebar to strobe:

 

 

They're allowed to strobe 240 times (or more) a minute. Might better alert dosy drunk drivers at night.

Edited September 26, 20214 yr by guerney

I should receive this 6V group adapter this week - it's "Arrived at the destination hub". I'll enclose the power module in one of these of the right size, to waterproof:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361646295313?

 

...wrapped with self amalgamating tape. The flanges will make it easier to mount with zipties, somewhere. I'd use an aluminium box but unless it gets very hot, plastic should do? I can't find very small aluminium boxes with flanges on ebay delivered fast from the UK.

Edited September 26, 20214 yr by guerney

It arrived today - 10 days to delivery from China, not bad. There's a small roll of solder included in the bag, and a couple of heat shrink sleeves. The power module is covered in what might be self-adhesive heat shrink, but I doubt that it would prevent water ingress if my bike was submerged again. I never imagined that all of the lower electrical connections on my bike would ever be completely submerged... I'll cover the power module completely with self amalgamating rubber tape, and hope it doesn't oveheat too much in use. I'll order a 3A blade fuse and holder. The pins on the round connecting cables were not protected in transit with temporary covers - rather a lot of small things rattling around in the bag, which could have bent pins. Anyway, here's a photo or two:

 

 

 

 

Edited September 28, 20214 yr by guerney

I've also ordered another one of these:

 

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/lighting-spares/schmidt-handlebar-fitting-dynamo-headlamp-bracket/

 

Why am I so obsessed with lights? BECAUSE DRIVERS ARE CYCLIST-BLIND! One of the two lights on the handlebars will be pointed at a 25 (or 30) degree angle towards the left, to wake up those idiot, drowsy or drunk drivers who continue to rush out at me at intersections and roundabouts, unseeing and suddenly hitting the brakes, very shortly after accelerating, then swearing, at intersections. The other one on the handlebar will be pointed at drivers directly ahead - the beams cannot be altered... I'd prefer a wider dispersion via an adjustable lens, but I suppose I could stick a thin diffraction grating magnifying lens over that light. The one on the fork will light up potholes. Maybe I should get a third light on the handlebar to point 25 (or 30) degrees to my right, for unseeing drivers rushing at me at roundabouts. Bloody drivers!

Edited September 28, 20214 yr by guerney

Maybe I should get a fourth light on the handbar pointing at me, because "Hi-viz" only works at night when light is shining directly on it, and drivers rushing out from either left or right are only ever shining their headlights directly at you when it's too late to brake. With this group light gizmo, I now have a 60W limit to experiment with, for the best night-time visibility solution.

Edited September 28, 20214 yr by guerney

Thanks for all your advice. The 3A fuse and holder arrived yesterday, so I have attached it to the red wire:

 

 

My soldering is terrible, but I've tested the connection with a multimeter to make sure it works.

 

The power module didn't look waterproof:

 

 

To be confident of keeping moisture out, I've mummified it with self amalgamating rubber tape. The blue wire should be black, but I didn't have black wire:

 

 

Now that the connecting cable (from the kit) is in place, routing the signal from the cable leading to the display, to the power module, I can confirm that the two lights which are already attached via the cable for lights which exit the motor, still work when activated via the display; therefore it's a splitter - it doesn't hijack the signal. Now all I need to do is connect the battery to the power module.

 

My question is, can I use a normal 13A block connector like this, between the battery and the controller? It'd be easier to split the power between the power module and the controller using just a basic block connector, or should I get a 60A block connector? Or something else entirely, like this:

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gloaso-Heavy-Duty-Distribution-Terminal-Junction-Red-300A-Busbar-4x-M8-Block/dp/B08X43PNQG/

 

...or should I simply solder the wires together?

 

...or can I just use a couple of M6 bolts and nuts, and cover those with insulation tape?

Edited October 3, 20214 yr by guerney

Or a couple of these?

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133851345597?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262562274561?_trkparms=

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/192118292280?hash=item2cbb247f38:g:GPAAAOSw0fFfeguI

Edited October 3, 20214 yr by guerney

Right. I'm going to use two of these from a 240V AC 60A connector block, which I've just bought. Will it burst into flames? We shall see, dear reader... we shall see...

 

 

Well, I've connected the power module to one light (for now, there will be two more, in addition to the other two lights connected via the cable for lights from the controller) and switched on the battery, and the light switches on immediately regardless of what the display light control commands. The light switch on the display only switches on the two lights already connected, the other lights from the power module turn on as soon as the battery is switched on... so all that nonsense with the routing cable was a complete waste of time and materials. Oh well. It's fine - I can add 60W of lights in total to that power module. What are the kids listening to these days? Dubstep? LED flashing lights under the bike flashing in time to dubstep it is then...

And the green wire does nothing whatsoever - so much for the advertised "Brake light" functionality...

I don't think I'll need the plastic sheath from the 60A connecting block, unless they get very hot - this photo was taken before I soldered them in (very badly, as usual) and wrapped them up with insulating tape, then self amalgamating rubber tape - I'm sure they won't burst into flames, because they look a lot thicker than what they replaced.:

 

 

8000lm

[ATTACH type=full]44274[/ATTACH]

 

8000lm

 

Bloody hell! That's bright! I'll use the luxmeter on my phone, measure the output of one Junstar Bafang light, and report back - I'm in the middle of getting two more headlights on right now (to go with one other headlight on the fork, and a rear Junstar light), but I can fit a total of eight on the handlebar. Then I'll need a beer chiller, to use the other watts...