Hi new to the ebike world and I am after some advice. I currently have a 250w motor, 36v 11.1ah battery and the pictured controller.

I also have a 350w motor available to upgrade to

Would the controller be able to take a straight swap and give better performance? If not what would be a good controller to enabe this. TIA

The AKM I assume is 100 model, if so it can take to be safe 20a max but 17/18a would be safer. The batter continuous output (not peak current) will determine if it is worth upgrading, if one is to upgrade a new controller and display is needed for comm's compatibility.

We need to see pics of all the controller connectors/wires nicely laid out to see what you have got (a birds nest pic of wiring etc, is of no use).

Another option is to carry out a shunt mod to the controller to give a few more amps, all this entails is adding some solder the shunt to change the resistance for current increase.

Thanks for the reply.

I have taken a few more pics.

So a few pics of controller and wires. Is it possible to get a 9pin adapter to connect the 350w motor to the controller and then it will work or will more need to be done?

Thanks

The hub can e connected to most controllers via a 9 pin motor cable, one can buy two type of cable to suit the waterproof and the bullet/block connector style (the bullet connectors you have are a bit weird and not seen that type before).

A couple of cables not sure of, there are two flat 5 wire connectors one White & one Black.

One is for the display so assume it is the Black one, no idea about the White one.

The 4 pin Blue julet, I assume it is a TS sensor connection ?

Black and Red battery connection is self explanatory.

And the Black, White single connector is likely a brake sensor.

Hi Thanks for the reply.

From my basic knowledge I can see a 4 in to 1 cable up front where the two power off brake sensors, throttle and display go in to. Two cables come out one goes to the front light and other goes to back and splits to the two flat connectors.

The black and white one goes to the rear light. I will attach some more pics.

Where/what does the julet connector plug in to ?

Where/what does the julet connector plug in to ?

Hi

It goes to the crank area. So I'd assume its as you said before that its probably a TS.

I think it might help if you come clean and say what bike this is - it would help Nealh proffer helpful advice. I say that because It looks to me like a Fiido D21 by the frame colour/fittings (although the controller is marked D12 for AU markets) and that display would be a Yolin. If so, that's a Xiongda YTW-06 motor, using a torque sensor, and Fiido's proprietary combined wiring looms (brake c/o, lights, horn, throttle), all of which make it especially difficult changing things over to more conventional components.

 

The advice Nealh is giving would apply to a more standard PAS set-up, where you could change to a KT controller/display. If this is a D21, it doesn't lend itself easily to that conversion.

 

What is it that makes you want to change things anyway?

I originally had a 350w motor on a previous bike and the 250w on this d21 doesn't feel up to it. So would like a little extra. I thought maybe the 350w would be able to attach to the existing hall and phase wires.

Does one want more power or speed or both.

If the former then one can simply carry out the shunt mod on the controller with some added solder to the shunt, if speed one will need a faster rpm wound hub or go to 48v.

As I expected the bike utilises TS PAS so if one wants to keep it as TS one would have to but another TS controller and display. The Aikema will work with what ever system you pair it too, however I doubt you will get much more power out of it then the existing 250w rated one will give. The W ratings are a bit ambiguous and tbh is what ever the maker decides and which market.

I originally had a 350w motor on a previous bike and the 250w on this d21 doesn't feel up to it. So would like a little extra. I thought maybe the 350w would be able to attach to the existing hall and phase wires.

 

Changing the motor won't do much as it will still be supplied with the same current/voltage from the controller,/batter, the watts output will still be the same.

If one wants more then more current or voltage is needed.

Does one want more power or speed or both.

If the former then one can simply carry out the shunt mod on the controller with some added solder to the shunt, if speed one will need a faster rpm wound hub or go to 48v.

As I expected the bike utilises TS PAS so if one wants to keep it as TS one would have to but another TS controller and display. The Aikema will work with what ever system you pair it too, however I doubt you will get much more power out of it then the existing 250w rated one will give. The W ratings are a bit ambiguous and tbh is what ever the maker decides and which market.

On the 350w the pas setting 1 was perfect and gave just the right amount of assistance. On the 250w one I have to put on setting 3 to give any feeling of assistance. I will try the shunt method. Any recommendations on this mod? I am a fairly confident diy person. Just need a soldering iron now

With the 350w kit, one likely had a controller that supplied greater current so PAS 1 would have felt stronger also with the TS systems the power is delivered different to cadence type controllers.

Not knowing what the controller was previously with the 350w hub one can't make comparisons.

Thanks for everything you have said.

From what I can tell my best, quickest and cheapest option is to carry out a shunt mod on the current controller and see how the 250w motor fairs. I will now research carrying out this mod. Any advice before I proceed?

A search on the forum should bring up a few threads.

Fiido X bikes for the US have 350w AKM motors fitted and give a top speed of 19mph. The 250w 35nm Xiongda on the D11/D21 can realistically achieve 18mph ridden, but it's the controller that limits it. The older Yolin display on the D11 had a programming menu you could cheat the system to achieve that, but the D21 only ever came with the newer display.

 

Fiido are currently redesigning the display; it'll see the return of odometer/trip and add a MPH/KPH setting. Whether that will be retrofittable and/or include a program menu hasn't been said.

So got myself a cheap soldering iron proceeded to open the controller to see its completely filled with a gel. So impossible to get access to the shunt. Back to the drawing board me thinks