October 5, 20232 yr They sell bikes with bigger and easy to replace batteries https://eleglide.com/collections/electric-bike Thanks for the link, spend approx £600 - for the money these bikes seem look like phenomenal value for money, especially if it's your first ebike.
October 5, 20232 yr https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hyuhome-Electric-Aluminum-Removable-Lithium-Ion/dp/B0BF514KDF/ref=sr_1_51?crid=1A7JJT95AJPVC&keywords=soodoo%2Bebike&qid=1696549643&s=sports&sprefix=soodoo%2Bebike%2Csports%2C94&sr=1-51&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.23648568-4ba5-49f2-9aa6-31ae75f1e9cd&th=1 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Electric-upgraded-Removable-Rechargeable-Mountain/dp/B0BHCQD8FP/ref=sr_1_64?crid=1A7JJT95AJPVC&keywords=soodoo%2Bebike&qid=1696549768&s=sports&sprefix=soodoo%2Bebike%2Csports%2C94&sr=1-64&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.23648568-4ba5-49f2-9aa6-31ae75f1e9cd&th=1 https://www.amazon.co.uk/GSOU-Electric-Mountain-Powerful-27-Speed/dp/B0BZNVF2RY/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1A7JJT95AJPVC&keywords=soodoo%2Bebike&qid=1696549822&s=sports&sprefix=soodoo%2Bebike%2Csports%2C94&sr=1-2&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.23648568-4ba5-49f2-9aa6-31ae75f1e9cd&th=1
October 6, 20232 yr Am I right in saying all those have separate controllers which would make DIY battery replacements to other battery models easier
October 6, 20232 yr Am I right in saying all those have separate controllers which would make DIY battery replacements to other battery models easier Keep in mind those bikes have batteries worth maybe £100 - £150, so they offer good value for money for somebody who doesn't want to do some DIY, but you are not looking at deals of the century. You can still get better bike if you convert yourself.
October 6, 20232 yr The good thing is Eleglide offers wide range of spares including intube batteries. Look what I have found: https://eleglide.com/collections/spare-part/products/sensor-for-citycrosser I wonder if it can be used instead of pas
October 6, 20232 yr Am I right in saying all those have separate controllers which would make DIY battery replacements to other battery models easier Yup.
October 6, 20232 yr The good thing is Eleglide offers wide range of spares including intube batteries. Look what I have found: https://eleglide.com/collections/spare-part/products/sensor-for-citycrosser I wonder if it can be used instead of pas No. You need a special controller.
October 6, 20232 yr The good thing is Eleglide offers wide range of spares including intube batteries. Look what I have found: https://eleglide.com/collections/spare-part/products/sensor-for-citycrosser I wonder if it can be used instead of pas As standard, the eleglide city crosser uses a torque sensor for its pedal assist
October 6, 20232 yr The M2 seems good value https://ekwonline.com/products/eleglide-m2-latest-model-electric-bike https://ekwonline.com/policies/refund-policy https://www.which.co.uk/consumer-rights/regulation/consumer-contracts-regulations-ajWHC8m21cAk https://find-and-update.company-information.service.gov.uk/company/14599678 For the registered office Google shows the back door of Wilco Motosave, that can't be right...? What I would really like to know is how to search Amazon so effectively! (Saneagle's links) https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/seeking-advice-on-affordable-ebike-for-20-mile-daily-commute-%C2%A3500-%C2%A3600-budget.46179/post-694010
October 6, 20232 yr https://ekwonline.com/policies/refund-policy https://www.which.co.uk/consumer-rights/regulation/consumer-contracts-regulations-ajWHC8m21cAk https://find-and-update.company-information.service.gov.uk/company/14599678 For the registered office Google shows the back door of Wilco Motosave, that can't be right...? there's loads offering the m2 at that price - eg OnBuy or Elegilde Factory Store Edited October 6, 20232 yr by Peter.Bridge
October 8, 20232 yr I have a cargo bike with a rear hub. 160KG for me, bike and usual luggage. I can get up any hill where I live in Derbyshire on it, albeit with pedaling in the granny gears. And this is one of the hills: Could you do that towing an additional 90kg?
October 9, 20232 yr I've never tried. Why do you ask? I can't recall which controller and motor you're using - I'm curious, never having used a hub drive to haul my 90kg+ trailer up a hill. For that hill you linked a photo of, I might be wise to change from 52T>32T, use a smaller chainwheel, maybe even 42T>32T (or 42T>36T, if it's a regular route) on my 20" wheeled 250W 36V BBS01B conversion, and increase the controller limit from 18A to 20A, but it would be doable and probably quite easy, even if the combined weight of my bike + me was 150kg, +90kg of trailer and cargo. Mid vs Hub: They're just tools. Select whichever does the job. Edited October 9, 20232 yr by guerney
October 9, 20232 yr Mid vs Hub: They're just tools. Select whichever does the job. I really don't see what you are getting at, but thanks for your contribution.
October 9, 20232 yr I really don't see what you are getting at, Of course you don't. I'm ignoring you.
October 9, 20232 yr https://www.amazon.co.uk/GSOU-Electric-Mountain-Powerful-27-Speed/dp/B0BZNVF2RY/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1A7JJT95AJPVC&keywords=soodoo%2Bebike&qid=1696549822&s=sports&sprefix=soodoo%2Bebike%2Csports%2C94&sr=1-2&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.23648568-4ba5-49f2-9aa6-31ae75f1e9cd&th=1 [mention=14891]billyboya[/mention] bought one of those Soodoos several months ago. IIRC he bypassed Amazon for a cheaper deal directly with the distributor. After some initial problems with display configuration, he hasn't been heard from since, so he must be getting on ok with it. Edited October 9, 20232 yr by guerney
October 9, 20232 yr Of course you don't. I'm ignoring you. Hang on, you told me you're ignoring me in the other thread, and you're replying to others. Did you ignore me, then read my other post so you could reply and say you're ignoring me? That is one spectacular flounce. Respect.
October 12, 20232 yr Can't wait - not had anything to tinker with on my bikes for weeks ! The BBTS kits arrived this morning. We installed it on Andy's bike. We only had a small ride as you can see on the odometer. It is very quiet and the start is extremely quick and smooth. You hardly have to move the pedal about 5-10 degrees for the motor to kick in. The pedals on Andy's bike moved just about about 1"-2". We'll test it with a 48V battery tomorrow. I think I am going to like it very much.
October 12, 20232 yr The BBTS kits arrived this morning. We installed it on Andy's bike. We only had a small ride as you can see on the odometer. It is very quiet and the start is extremely quick and smooth. You hardly have to move the pedal about 5-10 degrees for the motor to kick in. The pedals on Andy's bike moved just about about 1"-2". We'll test it with a 48V battery tomorrow. I think I am going to like it very much. Brilliant, was going to ask about a 48v system. How difficult will it be to install the bottom bracket torque sensor (there's always the option of me taking it to my local bike shop ! ). So I guess it is a new controller and display, does it have a lights output ? Will I need a different throttle / brake sensor. ? Is there any config options on the controller ?
October 12, 20232 yr It's not very difficult, but you will have to be careful. Drill a 10mm hole on the underside of the bottom bracket where the cable will come out. Screw the non drive side cup in fully, push the connector through the 10 mm hole then push the bbts in. The bbts has splines which will match those on the inside of the non drive side external ball bearing cup. From there on, the rest is a piece of cake. Install the drive side cup, drop the supplied chain ring in, put the locknut for the ring on top. Connect LCD, battery, motor cable. The whole job takes about an hour. I will make a video in the next couple of days.
October 13, 20232 yr A difference riders can’t see, but will experience on a long ride – especially on hills – is that a bike with a mid-drive motor works synergistically with the bike’s gears for higher efficiency, which translates into longer riding range per charge. Like a car’s engine, electric motors like to spin fast not slow. Just google "which is best hub drive or centre" the majority can not be wrong, you can't argue with FACT. The efficiency bit is a nonsense. Mid-drive motors lose some power through the chain and are based on a smaller higher rpm motor which uses a series of gears to bring down to a lower rpm for torque and you also lose power through the gears. Also because of everything being combined in a small space including the circuit board there is a lot more heat so a lot more power throttling to reduce heat. However the main point is when a mid-drive motor is delivering it's full torque its typically up at 700-800W of consumption. It's no more efficient providing its high torque than a hub motor. The only way it saves power is it provides so little in high gears which is no different to a hub motor with a torque sensor. Then when you add in the extra drivetrain wear it is much more likely you will be using an ebike with a worn drivetrain when it has a mid-drive motor so more loss of efficiency. Like many I question the legality of mid-drive motors too that are openly sold as 250W despite consuming over 3x that at times. Then you go into a bike shop to hear the sales banter of only a mid-drive can deliver high torque at 250W. It seems dishonest at best or criminal fraud at worst. You can understand why though so much money to be made on ebikes that can cost up to £12k and are pretty much short life throwaway products. I've never seen a gig economy cyclist delivering takeaways with a mid-drive motor. I'm sure they exist somewhere but it seems like 99% or higher are using hub motors and they are clocking up huge miles. I saw a video where a cyclist did 100 miles of riding in one shift by doing an extended shift, 12 hours or something delivering takeaways. In contrast I watched a video where someone was riding their Porsche ebike with other riders which cost an absolute fortune and was mid-drive based and they had to wait for him because his chain snapped almost immediately on one of its first rides. I reckon he had already had this issue before because he carried a bag of quicklinks with him. Unfortunately there is a lot more money in the mid-drive camp as such ebikes are much more expensive. Many cycling channels on youtube are sponsored by high cost brands that use mid-drive motors. Over 95% of ebikes sold are hub motor based and the vast majority of pre-built mid-drive motor ebikes sold are e-mountain bikes not bikes designed for the road.
October 13, 20232 yr The efficiency bit is a nonsense. Mid-drive motors lose some power through the chain and are based on a smaller higher rpm motor which uses a series of gears to bring down to a lower rpm for torque and you also lose power through the gears. Also because of everything being combined in a small space including the circuit board there is a lot more heat so a lot more power throttling to reduce heat. However the main point is when a mid-drive motor is delivering it's full torque its typically up at 700-800W of consumption. It's no more efficient providing its high torque than a hub motor. The only way it saves power is it provides so little in high gears which is no different to a hub motor with a torque sensor. Then when you add in the extra drivetrain wear it is much more likely you will be using an ebike with a worn drivetrain when it has a mid-drive motor so more loss of efficiency. Like many I question the legality of mid-drive motors too that are openly sold as 250W despite consuming over 3x that at times. Then you go into a bike shop to hear the sales banter of only a mid-drive can deliver high torque at 250W. It seems dishonest at best or criminal fraud at worst. You can understand why though so much money to be made on ebikes that can cost up to £12k and are pretty much short life throwaway products. I've never seen a gig economy cyclist delivering takeaways with a mid-drive motor. I'm sure they exist somewhere but it seems like 99% or higher are using hub motors and they are clocking up huge miles. I saw a video where a cyclist did 100 miles of riding in one shift by doing an extended shift, 12 hours or something delivering takeaways. In contrast I watched a video where someone was riding their Porsche ebike with other riders which cost an absolute fortune and was mid-drive based and they had to wait for him because his chain snapped almost immediately on one of its first rides. I reckon he had already had this issue before because he carried a bag of quicklinks with him. Unfortunately there is a lot more money in the mid-drive camp as such ebikes are much more expensive. Many cycling channels on youtube are sponsored by high cost brands that use mid-drive motors. Over 95% of ebikes sold are hub motor based and the vast majority of pre-built mid-drive motor ebikes sold are e-mountain bikes not bikes designed for the road. Back in 2011, I did an experiment to see whether a mid drive is more efficient than a hub-motor. I used exactly the same motor in two bikes: one was in the hub spoked to the rim and the other was mounted in a bracket in the frame triangle, driving the crank via a chain. They both had the same controller and battery, and both had wattmeters fitted. Over the same relatively hilly rides, they both used the same amount of charge during the ride, though they used different amounts at any one time.
October 13, 20232 yr Brilliant, was going to ask about a 48v system. it is dead simple: pop the 48V battery in, make a simple change to the setting of battery voltage on the LCD from 36V to 48V. That's it.
October 13, 20232 yr L it is dead simple: pop the 48V battery in, make a simple change to the setting of battery voltage on the LCD from 36V to 48V. That's it. Looks brilliant, I was thinking I possibly probably don't need brake sensors or throttle with a torque sensor - I only use the brake sensors when 'ghost pedalling' when changing down gears (motor wouldn't be triggered because no torque ?) and throttle when I am trying to start off in too high a gear -(motor kicks in because it senses the torque ?). That LCD looks decent - is there a separate controller ? Sorry - I'll let you create your blurb/video, will probably answer most of my questions. Still slightly wary of getting the old cups off and installing the bottom bracket torque sensor but I'm sure I'll manage
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