Update:

 

I charged the battery to its full capacity (green light on charger).

 

After many attempts to switch the bike on, it read 41.4v - which is what it normally showed when the battery was fully charged previously.

 

What caught my eye was, as I was repeatedly pressing and holding the button to switch the system on, it would turn itself off after a fraction of a second but this time, as it did that, the display faintly showed the battery was 'empty', it had like one bar or zero bars - I couldn't read the voltage.

 

But mere seconds later I succeeded in switching it on and it read 41.4v as I said. 5 full bars.

 

Intuition tells me it could be the battery cable that came with the kit, it's a 2 bullet points to 2-pin julet that connects to the controller

(see attached image)

 

But it could also be the controller?

 

Also, would I still be able to perform the aforementioned tests if my controller has that julet/waterproof connector?

(image also attached, obviously the battery cable is the one with the 2 protruding pins)

 

Alas, I don't even have the tool(s) necessary for the job.

 

I'm puzzled but, since a few days have passed I'm calmer. The kit and the battery are well under warranty since I've only had it since late January - hopefully I'll get it resolved. Fingers crossed.

Which switch were you pressing? You can't take any notice of transients on the LCD because the capacitors in the controller will power it for a second or so.

Which switch were you pressing? You can't take any notice of transients on the LCD because the capacitors in the controller will power it for a second or so.

The one on the LCD display, the button you press and hold to turn the bike on.

 

Looking back, I meant button and not switch.

 

-

I still haven't heard from Yose since they said they were going to simulate the issues with their engineers.

News just in!

 

Yose sent me a new controller.

 

Just now there was a delivery guy knocking on my door which I found odd since I hadn't ordered anything.

 

They sent me the thing without even saying anything other than that they were going to have their engineers simulate the fault I'd described.

 

I'll have lunch and fit the thing, fingers crossed it solves it.

Looking forward to good news..

The one on the LCD display, the button you press and hold to turn the bike on.

 

Looking back, I meant button and not switch.

 

-

I still haven't heard from Yose since they said they were going to simulate the issues with their engineers.

In that case, I'd say there's a strong possibility that there's a battery connection issue, which will probably get fixed when you install the new controller unless you have a burnt battery connector in the cradle, which happens when you insert a battery that's switched on.

In that case, I'd say there's a strong possibility that there's a battery connection issue, which will probably get fixed when you install the new controller unless you have a burnt battery connector in the cradle, which happens when you insert a battery that's switched on.

 

I cannot recollect ever doing that. My battery stays on the bike as I use it mostly for commuting and I never remove it when I park it there.

 

And I'm always paranoid and double check I flip my battery switch to 'off' whenever I'm not using the bike.

 

 

--

 

I was so hesitant about fitting the new controller I only got to it this morning.

 

Sadly the same symptoms persist with the new controller as well.

 

Right off the bat I struggled to turn the system on (pressing and holding the on button on the display).

 

After many attempts of the display going blank, it did come on.

 

I lifted the bike, and pressed the throttle for a good two minutes.

Battery was full as I'd left it. 43.3v. The display registered 37km per hour as usual (same no load top speed as when I first got the kit).

 

I let go of the throttle for a bit, then pressed it again; and after about 10 seconds the bike went dead, and the display went blank as I was pressing the throttle.

 

 

I waited about half an hour, went to the garage again, pressed the button on the display and the bike worked first time of trying.

 

I decided to take it for a test ride. And after about 5 minutes of the bike working normally, it went dead again as I was pedalling.

 

I am perplexed, and I will reiterate I never see any error code on the display or anything, the battery seems to be holding charge.

I cannot recollect ever doing that. My battery stays on the bike as I use it mostly for commuting and I never remove it when I park it there.

 

And I'm always paranoid and double check I flip my battery switch to 'off' whenever I'm not using the bike.

 

 

--

 

I was so hesitant about fitting the new controller I only got to it this morning.

 

Sadly the same symptoms persist with the new controller as well.

 

Right off the bat I struggled to turn the system on (pressing and holding the on button on the display).

 

After many attempts of the display going blank, it did come on.

 

I lifted the bike, and pressed the throttle for a good two minutes.

Battery was full as I'd left it. 43.3v. The display registered 37km per hour as usual (same no load top speed as when I first got the kit).

 

I let go of the throttle for a bit, then pressed it again; and after about 10 seconds the bike went dead, and the display went blank as I was pressing the throttle.

 

 

I waited about half an hour, went to the garage again, pressed the button on the display and the bike worked first time of trying.

 

I decided to take it for a test ride. And after about 5 minutes of the bike working normally, it went dead again as I was pedalling.

 

I am perplexed, and I will reiterate I never see any error code on the display or anything, the battery seems to be holding charge.

You need to find the bad connection. If you hanged the LCD with the controller, it'll be between the battery connection to the controller and the cell-pack. If you didn't change the LCD, it will probably be in te cableto it or a wire pulled. Look for where tat wire is squished, including the wire to a separate switch unit. Mine recently got squished by the bell.

Edited May 20, 20241 yr by saneagle

I did not change the LCD.

 

Yose sent me the controller only.

 

Just now I went down to the garage, pressed the button and the bike/system turned on as normal, I lifted it and held on to the throttle for a good 3 minutes. It got to 37.2 km/h, the battery read 41.2v, no error code on the LCD screen.

 

I then stopped and turned the bike off.

 

That's what puzzles me how it can sporadically work as normal, and then at times not even turn on, or turn itself off as I press the throttle or pedal when I'm test riding it.

 

I'm thinking it's the battery cable that connects the julet connector on the controller to the 2 bullet red/black connectors of the battery. But I might be way off.

 

I inspected the wires back when the issue started, I didn't see anything damaged or squished, but I will certainly look again.

 

Is there a chance it could possibly be the LCD screen?

 

I've really looked after the bike since I've fitted the kit.

I ride 20 miles a day 5x a week to commute. More or less 35 minutes each way, mostly incline on the way home with 10% gradient max.

 

My commute is mostly on cycle lanes, probably 70% of it.

 

I reiterate I do not use the throttle, I only fitted it back in to test things. I much prefer pedalling.

 

I rode on the rain no more than twice, the second time I had one of those battery covers on.

 

I never dropped the bike or the battery.

 

Before the issue started that Thursday just over 2 weeks ago the bike worked faultlessly, not a stutter before that.

This might be a complete red herring, but perhaps worth checking. I have a downtube battery fitted on top of a rear pannier rack on one of my bikes and it would randomly shut down (inc display). I couldn't replicate the problem on a stand. I eventually discovered that after hitting a few bumps the battery would slide slightly out of the carrier bracket, breaking the circuit. The act of getting off the bike was just enough of a "jiggle" to re-make the connection so it would power up again OK, until the next random series of bumps dislodged it again.

The fix, of course, was to make sure that the battery was locked in the carrier bracket - something I got lazy about if I did a circular trip without leaving the bike anywere.

This is less likely if the battery is on the downtube as the weight of the battery should keep it firmly in place. I was surprised that there were no tell-tale burn marks on the connector pins.

I did not change the LCD.

 

Yose sent me the controller only.

 

Just now I went down to the garage, pressed the button and the bike/system turned on as normal, I lifted it and held on to the throttle for a good 3 minutes. It got to 37.2 km/h, the battery read 41.2v, no error code on the LCD screen.

 

I then stopped and turned the bike off.

 

That's what puzzles me how it can sporadically work as normal, and then at times not even turn on, or turn itself off as I press the throttle or pedal when I'm test riding it.

 

I'm thinking it's the battery cable that connects the julet connector on the controller to the 2 bullet red/black connectors of the battery. But I might be way off.

 

I inspected the wires back when the issue started, I didn't see anything damaged or squished, but I will certainly look again.

 

Is there a chance it could possibly be the LCD screen?

 

I've really looked after the bike since I've fitted the kit.

I ride 20 miles a day 5x a week to commute. More or less 35 minutes each way, mostly incline on the way home with 10% gradient max.

 

My commute is mostly on cycle lanes, probably 70% of it.

 

I reiterate I do not use the throttle, I only fitted it back in to test things. I much prefer pedalling.

 

I rode on the rain no more than twice, the second time I had one of those battery covers on.

 

I never dropped the bike or the battery.

 

Before the issue started that Thursday just over 2 weeks ago the bike worked faultlessly, not a stutter before that.

The way to find the cause of problems is by testing. The voltage comes from the battery through the battery connector, then through the controller's connector, then up to the LCD. When the LCD doesn't switch on, the voltage is interrupted somewhere. Your meter can find where.

This might be a complete red herring, but perhaps worth checking. I have a downtube battery fitted on top of a rear pannier rack on one of my bikes and it would randomly shut down (inc display). I couldn't replicate the problem on a stand. I eventually discovered that after hitting a few bumps the battery would slide slightly out of the carrier bracket, breaking the circuit. The act of getting off the bike was just enough of a "jiggle" to re-make the connection so it would power up again OK, until the next random series of bumps dislodged it again.

The fix, of course, was to make sure that the battery was locked in the carrier bracket - something I got lazy about if I did a circular trip without leaving the bike anywere.

This is less likely if the battery is on the downtube as the weight of the battery should keep it firmly in place. I was surprised that there were no tell-tale burn marks on the connector pins.

 

The one thing about the battery is that I couldn't remove it from the cradle yesterday when I read saneagle's post about the battery cradle possibly being an issue.

 

Even when I first installed the battery removing it was a struggle, but yesterday I just couldn't get it off the thing. It's very firm and secure though.

 

 

 

The way to find the cause of problems is by testing. The voltage comes from the battery through the battery connector, then through the controller's connector, then up to the LCD. When the LCD doesn't switch on, the voltage is interrupted somewhere. Your meter can find where.

 

It makes sense, but what puzzles me is that it will sporadically work like normal for a good 10 minutes even.

The one thing about the battery is that I couldn't remove it from the cradle yesterday when I read saneagle's post about the battery cradle possibly being an issue.

 

Even when I first installed the battery removing it was a struggle, but yesterday I just couldn't get it off the thing. It's very firm and secure though.

 

 

 

 

 

It makes sense, but what puzzles me is that it will sporadically work like normal for a good 10 minutes even.

You test to find where the fault is, then examine it to see what it is.

 

Bend over to look underneath the battery so that you can see the lock pin go in and out. When it's definitely out, lever the battery off the receiver with a screwdriver. Don't push the screwdriver into the middle where the connector is.

I will try that, the battery is in place like normal; what I noticed is that when I tried to slide it off the cradle, I couldn't do it.

 

But it's always been a hassle to remove it, but I rarely ever do it since I don't need to where I typically park it. It's a safe, indoor area.

What caught my eye was, as I was repeatedly pressing and holding the button to switch the system on, it would turn itself off after a fraction of a second but this time, as it did that, the display faintly showed the battery was 'empty'

The voltage comes from the battery through the battery connector, then through the controller's connector, then up to the LCD. When the LCD doesn't switch on, the voltage is interrupted somewhere. Your meter can find where.

Sound advice and you can test downstream i.e. starting at the battery, or upstream or by binary chop depending on what you can get to easily. Intermittent faults can be due to overheating or vibration with poor contact in plugs or cradle, or sometimes a strained wire or water ingress.

 

However you've mentioned a flicker from the display, that suggests the display does have power (to scan the On button) but then intermittently the controller sees something that shuts it down, immediately (barely visible) or later.

 

See if you can monitor the battery between cradle and controller while starting and ideally while riding (load and vibration). A pair of bullet connector Y-leads and DMM should do it. What you're looking to catch is a healthy battery voltage that momentarily plummets to less than LVC (32V?) when you press On, or the voltage fluttering while you rock the battery in its cradle or rotate the motor backwards. The DMM refreshes slowly so persevere!

Sound advice and you can test downstream i.e. starting at the battery, or upstream or by binary chop depending on what you can get to easily. Intermittent faults can be due to overheating or vibration with poor contact in plugs or cradle, or sometimes a strained wire or water ingress.

 

However you've mentioned a flicker from the display, that suggests the display does have power (to scan the On button) but then intermittently the controller sees something that shuts it down, immediately (barely visible) or later.

 

See if you can monitor the battery between cradle and controller while starting and ideally while riding (load and vibration). A pair of bullet connector Y-leads and DMM should do it. What you're looking to catch is a healthy battery voltage that momentarily plummets to less than LVC (32V?) when you press On, or the voltage fluttering while you rock the battery in its cradle or rotate the motor backwards. The DMM refreshes slowly so persevere!

The LCD flickers because it's powered by the capacitors in the controller. That happens when the battery shuts down as soon as you switch on the bike. The battery must have been active before it shutdown in order to charge the capacitors. It's normally a sign of a short somewhere downstream of the controller or a very weak battery.

Glad you agree, that's why I suggested those diagnostics. Levering the battery off will make it harder to test as it won't have the bike loading it or the chance to disturb the cradle and motor.

Edited June 14, 20241 yr by AntonyC

I am back at last.

 

I've been busy, and at one point even sick in bed for a week and a half these past few months. But all is well now.

 

The bike is seemingly working again, after, I think of 2 months down time of me trying to troubleshoot what the issue was.

 

I must state that both Yose Power and Greenlance were excellent in terms of customer service with me, lightning fast communication and attentiveness.

 

After a lot of struggle I managed with wriggle the battery off the bike, it took many attempts along the course of a few weeks and a eureka moment of me flipping the thing upside down and trying to gently yet with force to remove it, and it worked.

 

And as I did, I immediately saw that one of the connectors of the battery cradle/mounting plate was damaged.

 

I then quickly got in contact with Greenlance and within an hour they got back to me to send the battery back so they could replace the 5 round gold pin connectors with the 4 straight pin style connectors - those look way more robust to me.

 

But that was only last week, I've since then tested the bike 4 times with quick 10 minute rides the past few days and it seems everything is working like normal.

 

Fingers crossed it stays that way, the bike had worked flawlessly prior to this issue.

 

 

I will admit, if I were more experienced with e-bikes I would probably have found what the issue was much earlier. It took weeks for me to realise the battery was stuck to the cradle - and that that was at least a hint to what the problem could be.

 

But you live and learn, that's life.

 

 

P.S.

 

I hope this post serves to help a future someone who ever has a similar issue.

I am back at last.

 

I've been busy, and at one point even sick in bed for a week and a half these past few months. But all is well now.

 

The bike is seemingly working again, after, I think of 2 months down time of me trying to troubleshoot what the issue was.

 

I must state that both Yose Power and Greenlance were excellent in terms of customer service with me, lightning fast communication and attentiveness.

 

After a lot of struggle I managed with wriggle the battery off the bike, it took many attempts along the course of a few weeks and a eureka moment of me flipping the thing upside down and trying to gently yet with force to remove it, and it worked.

 

And as I did, I immediately saw that one of the connectors of the battery cradle/mounting plate was damaged.

 

I then quickly got in contact with Greenlance and within an hour they got back to me to send the battery back so they could replace the 5 round gold pin connectors with the 4 straight pin style connectors - those look way more robust to me.

 

But that was only last week, I've since then tested the bike 4 times with quick 10 minute rides the past few days and it seems everything is working like normal.

 

Fingers crossed it stays that way, the bike had worked flawlessly prior to this issue.

 

 

I will admit, if I were more experienced with e-bikes I would probably have found what the issue was much earlier. It took weeks for me to realise the battery was stuck to the cradle - and that that was at least a hint to what the problem could be.

 

But you live and learn, that's life.

 

 

P.S.

 

I hope this post serves to help a future someone who ever has a similar issue.

If you try to connect any Hailong type battery to its receiver when it's switched on, the current rushing into the controller's capacitors will burn the connectors. The round type are very thin. so burning is serious. The inrush current can even weld the two connectors together.

 

There should be a big label on every such battery telling you about this problem, but nobody seems to know about it unless they've suffered from the problem.

 

It's similar to plugging in the charger when you have the 5.5mm jack type connector. If the battery is switched on and the charger switched off, you can weld the jack in the socket, then when you try to pull it out, it pulls the side contact onto the middle one to make a dead short, and you'll see big sparks unless you have a 5 amp fuse on the charge socket that blows to save you, which is not that often.

I had not the slightest idea about that.

 

What is odd is that I'm always paranoid about switching the battery off at all times - when I'm not using the bike.

 

And prior to say, I had only removed the battery 3 times at the most, basically the few occasions when I went to my local bank.

 

At work I don't need to since it's very safe and secluded.

 

Meaning I don't remember fitting the battery back in with it switched on. But it must have been the case.

 

And if agreed. There should be a label on every battery for sure!

Talk about rotten luck. Need advice please.

 

More trouble this morning.

 

I was going to take the bike for another test drive just this morning, right away I noticed the bike wouldn't turn on.

 

I tested the battery light indicators (the ones on the battery itself) and pressed the button, blank. No lights would come on, not even the red ones.

 

Which is odd since I charged the battery to completion when I last used it, Sunday - it had come from the repair shop with about 38v or 39v. It had charged to 41.5v. Which was a number I'd never seen on this battery before, the most I saw was 41.4v back then.

 

I plugged the charger in and it was behaving strangely. The red and green light would alternate every 4 seconds or so. The charger's fan also went on and off accordingly. I made a point to take a video of it for reference.

 

I unplugged the charger, and the battery lights indicated full (all the way to the last green light). The charger was plugged in for about a minute and a half.

 

The bike turned on, I then proceeded to take it for a test ride and after half a block the bike turned itself off. The display went blank.

 

I pressed the button on the battery to see the indicator lights and no light would come on, again not even the red ones.

 

 

I never had this problem before, the battery always held charge, even in the months the bike was faulty. The lights always worked and the voltage remained consistent.

 

So this is a new issue.

 

This thing cost me £299. I wonder if I should straight up ask for a refund, because I am very very frustrated.

Talk about rotten luck. Need advice please.

 

More trouble this morning.

 

I was going to take the bike for another test drive just this morning, right away I noticed the bike wouldn't turn on.

 

I tested the battery light indicators (the ones on the battery itself) and pressed the button, blank. No lights would come on, not even the red ones.

 

Which is odd since I charged the battery to completion when I last used it, Sunday - it had come from the repair shop with about 38v or 39v. It had charged to 41.5v. Which was a number I'd never seen on this battery before, the most I saw was 41.4v back then.

 

I plugged the charger in and it was behaving strangely. The red and green light would alternate every 4 seconds or so. The charger's fan also went on and off accordingly. I made a point to take a video of it for reference.

 

I unplugged the charger, and the battery lights indicated full (all the way to the last green light). The charger was plugged in for about a minute and a half.

 

The bike turned on, I then proceeded to take it for a test ride and after half a block the bike turned itself off. The display went blank.

 

I pressed the button on the battery to see the indicator lights and no light would come on, again not even the red ones.

 

 

I never had this problem before, the battery always held charge, even in the months the bike was faulty. The lights always worked and the voltage remained consistent.

 

So this is a new issue.

 

This thing cost me £299. I wonder if I should straight up ask for a refund, because I am very very frustrated.

Sounds like a faulty battery. If I had to guess, I'd say one or more welds have let go, or possibly a bad solder joint on a sense wire. See if you can measure any voltage in the charge socket, but be careful not to short your probes if it's the 5.5mm jack type.

I'm back and calmed down.

 

Greenlance got back to me (I messaged them that very day) within an hour and promised to send me a brand new battery as soon as they had more 36v 20ah in stock.

 

They also supplied me a shipping label so I could send the faulty battery their way.

 

The new battery arrived today. I was just able to squeeze in a 5 minute test ride around the block before it got dark.

 

I reiterate that in terms of customer service I cannot fault Greenlance or Yose Power.

They are a 10/10 in that respect from me.

 

Now fingers crossed the bikes works without a hitch like before.

My first 4 months with the bike were magical.

Quick update:

 

The bike is working normally as it should with the new battery Greenlance sent me.

 

I'm happy to have my bike again. Happy days.