Hi i,m a cancer patient with heart problem and diabetes just bought a jorvick jet 24 .

Problem is with my health limitations i need to upgrade it from ped assist to 15 mph throttle control .

The plug and play controller is situated at the base of the battery mount.

Is there a straight forward plug on replacement controller available that will solve the problem ,

I dont want to butcher the harness if that is avoidable,

Any suggestions would be appreciated on a cost effective solution ,

I,v tried emailing customer services at jorvick but it just comes up with a recapcha fault .

I know they do a 500 watt off road motor and controller upgrade which gives throttle control so wonder if they could supply a controller only to suit.i,m assuming my front hub is a bafang 250 .

I dont suppose there is any means to do any internal shunt in the controller as it looks to be a sealed unit.

Any ideas or suggestions would make my life easier ,and yes i,m aware of the laws on throttle bikes, regards john

We will need to some clear pics of the controller wiring to see what you have got.

Ok, first I must point out that what you want to achieve under current U.K. laws illegal, having said that it is achievable.

I am also unsure which model you have by your description Jet24?

I assume you have a basic C961 display unit?

As far as I know as supplied it is paired with a Lishui controller found below the seat post in a box with a cover on the side with 4 capscrews .

Unfortunately this brand is programmed to the retailers (Jorvic) specific parameters and cannot be adjusted.

However if the controller is located where I suggest it should be if you remove the cover and rubber gasket you should see 2 sets of thin wires.

One set go to the rear light/brake light .

The other should be a white or white to black with a joiner. Disconnect that and you will have full hand throttle with the PAS set to any level (1 and above)

please try that first and let me know how you get on?

Edited May 15, 20241 yr by Adwb

Ok, first I must point out that what you want to achieve under current U.K. laws illegal, having said that it is achievable.

I am also unsure which model you have by your description Jet24?

I assume you have a basic C961 display unit?

As far as I know as supplied it is paired with a Lishui controller found below the seat post in a box with a cover on the side with 4 capscrews .

Unfortunately this brand is programmed to the retailers (Jorvic) specific parameters and cannot be adjusted.

However if the controller is located where I suggest it should be if you remove the cover and rubber gasket you should see 2 sets of thin wires.

One set go to the rear light/brake light .

The other should be a white or white to black with a joiner. Disconnect that and you will have full hand throttle with the PAS set to any level (1 and above)

please try that first and let me know how you get on?

I,l check that out i do know the controller is located on the seat post directly below the battery so fingers crossed your suggestion may help solve my problem,

Thankyou

Ok, first I must point out that what you want to achieve under current U.K. laws illegal, having said that it is achievable.

I am also unsure which model you have by your description Jet24?

I assume you have a basic C961 display unit?

As far as I know as supplied it is paired with a Lishui controller found below the seat post in a box with a cover on the side with 4 capscrews .

Unfortunately this brand is programmed to the retailers (Jorvic) specific parameters and cannot be adjusted.

However if the controller is located where I suggest it should be if you remove the cover and rubber gasket you should see 2 sets of thin wires.

One set go to the rear light/brake light .

The other should be a white or white to black with a joiner. Disconnect that and you will have full hand throttle with the PAS set to any level (1 and above)

please try that first and let me know how you get on?

Hi popped the controller off appears to be a sealed unit however there are three fine wires visible see pic

A black a yellow and an off

white ,

Enough room on the white but no conecter so i clipped it , (enough to resolder as a precaution)

Connected battery no change throttle still restricted to 4 mph,

But it was worth a try given that by coincidence the three wires you mentioned were present.

And accessable.so its obviously a later model controller that probably cant be altered.

Also by coincidence the pedlec sensor and thum throttle have the same 3 pin connectors

Popped the thumb throttle off the bars connected it to the pedlec but obviously it works on a different signal protocol from the linear throttle .

Just have to see if i can source a European controller

For it ,

If you have a normal pedal sensor, you can spoof it with a pulse generator operated by a push button. This thing can be wired directly to the pedal sensor connector. Take a loop off the 5v to the handlebar switch. Set it to pulse frequency of about 600-1000 hz, and try 10% for the duty cycle.

Signal generator PWM pulse frequency duty cycle adjustable module lcd | eBay

 

When you press the button, it'll make the same signal as a pedal sensor, so should make the motor go.

Hi popped the controller off appears to be a sealed unit however there are three fine wires visible see pic

A black a yellow and an off

white ,

Enough room on the white but no conecter so i clipped it , (enough to resolder as a precaution)

Connected battery no change throttle still restricted to 4 mph,

But it was worth a try given that by coincidence the three wires you mentioned were present.

Yes that’s not located where I described unfortunately, now I know what you have. I don’t think you can bypass that type hence my description of the location, two images below might help but I doubt it.

My understanding is that with that controller set up you will have to change the controller and display unit, might well be achievable you will need all the details off your controller and search for a alternative.

there are U.K. based importers who might be able to assist with that? Also seems odd that cutting that wire had no apparent effect it won’t be there for the fun of it?

Edited May 17, 20241 yr by Adwb

Yes that’s not located where I described unfortunately, now I know what you have. I don’t think you can bypass that type hence my description of the location, two images below might help but I doubt it.

My understanding is that with that controller set up you will have to change the controller and display unit, might well be achievable you will need all the details off your controller and search for a alternative.

there are U.K. based importers who might be able to assist with that? Also seems odd that cutting that wire had no apparent effect it won’t be there for the fun of it?

Hi i was bit bemused that cutting the white wire had no discernable effect throttle just did 4 miles per hour .

However i noticed on your pics of suggested controller and wire code that a white wire is also a speed signal , so possible that i did not try ped assist while the white was disconnected so probably is the signal wire from the ped sensor to the controller .

Thought i,d better mention that for the benefit of future queries on the forum,

Just to update i emailed jorvik with my medical details and asked if they could supply / sell me a suitable controller to replace the original went into the full detail of why i needed throttle control,

Had a reply within an hour telling me they do not stock or sell spare parts for trikes so they couldn't help,

Now forgive me for being pedantic but the warranty period on most of their trikes , is 24 month . So if some major component goes toes up they cant or won't sell a replacement , in my case i bought mine used but 3 month old private so obviously

The warranty is void anyway which i accept is the case , however i did comment in reply that given that they dont sell spares or stock spares buying a trike from them would be a very expensive product risk if it failed after 2 years and the lack of replacement spares rendered it useless ,

I was horrified to think that some people pay a minimum of £2,700 up to near on £4,000 for such an expensive trike that could be essentially useless if any component failed after the 2 year warranty expired due to no spares available.

One wonders how spares materialise during the warranty period .

Sorry drifting off the original subject ,

Taking your suggestion i whipped the controller off the trike and took a series of pics of all the pin plugs / connectors so i,v got an idea of whats needed for a replacement controller see pics also pics of the pin configuration for each connection, yellow 3 pin defo ped sensor blue i,l guess is the light and brake line ?

Two bigger connections obviously are motor and display respectively,

Looked at a few similar controllers and they have a red plug as opposed to a blue not sure if that red is same as blue light line on this controller . I,l put pics up anyway ,

Few posts on other sites suggest mounting the ped gear on the front or rear wheel , problem with that is no variable control over speed , except for brake s, but crap if your flying round sharp turns.

Thanks again for your input

Hi i was bit bemused that cutting the white wire had no discernable effect throttle just did 4 miles per hour .

However i noticed on your pics of suggested controller and wire code that a white wire is also a speed signal , so possible that i did not try ped assist while the white was disconnected so probably is the signal wire from the ped sensor to the controller .

Thought i,d better mention that for the benefit of future queries on the forum,

Just to update i emailed jorvik with my medical details and asked if they could supply / sell me a suitable controller to replace the original went into the full detail of why i needed throttle control,

Had a reply within an hour telling me they do not stock or sell spare parts for trikes so they couldn't help,

Now forgive me for being pedantic but the warranty period on most of their trikes , is 24 month . So if some major component goes toes up they cant or won't sell a replacement , in my case i bought mine used but 3 month old private so obviously

The warranty is void anyway which i accept is the case , however i did comment in reply that given that they dont sell spares or stock spares buying a trike from them would be a very expensive product risk if it failed after 2 years and the lack of replacement spares rendered it useless ,

I was horrified to think that some people pay a minimum of £2,700 up to near on £4,000 for such an expensive trike that could be essentially useless if any component failed after the 2 year warranty expired due to no spares available.

One wonders how spares materialise during the warranty period .

Sorry drifting off the original subject ,

Taking your suggestion i whipped the controller off the trike and took a series of pics of all the pin plugs / connectors so i,v got an idea of whats needed for a replacement controller see pics also pics of the pin configuration for each connection, yellow 3 pin defo ped sensor blue i,l guess is the light and brake line ?

Two bigger connections obviously are motor and display respectively,

Looked at a few similar controllers and they have a red plug as opposed to a blue not sure if that red is same as blue light line on this controller . I,l put pics up anyway ,

Few posts on other sites suggest mounting the ped gear on the front or rear wheel , problem with that is no variable control over speed , except for brake s, but crap if your flying round sharp turns.

Thanks again for your input

You have a standard 9 pin connector on the motor, so you can use any controller or battery you want and any throttle and/or pedal sensor you want. If you go to standard ones, you'll never need to worry about spare parts, and they'll be a lot cheaper.

You have a standard 9 pin connector on the motor, so you can use any controller or battery you want and any throttle and/or pedal sensor you want. If you go to standard ones, you'll never need to worry about spare parts, and they'll be a lot cheaper.

Thankyou would this entail replacing the display unit

Which also doubles as the switch for the lights and brake lights which i would prefer to retain but not a big problem , just had a further email from jorvik saying basically that my front hub is suprise suprise a 250 wat so would need to be 500 wat to upgrade with a kit ,

Yep its 250 36 v most of controllers on net are 500 wat which i doubt would make a difference to the motor but i,l take advice on that .

Thanks again for your input , been very helpful this forum

Thankyou would this entail replacing the display unit

Which also doubles as the switch for the lights and brake lights which i would prefer to retain but not a big problem , just had a further email from jorvik saying basically that my front hub is suprise suprise a 250 wat so would need to be 500 wat to upgrade with a kit ,

Yep its 250 36 v most of controllers on net are 500 wat which i doubt would make a difference to the motor but i,l take advice on that .

Thanks again for your input , been very helpful this forum

It's not a 250w motor in the sense you mean. Motors don't have power. The 250w is an arbitrary label for legal compliance. It should be able to manage around 1000w if you're careful or if it's a low speed version.

 

You should always buy controllers and LCDs as a matched pair to guarantee compatibility.

 

Many controllers have connectors for lights, but most of them can't provide the power for decent lights. It's always better to wire lights direct to the main battery with their own fuse and switch.

Your comments on Jorvic noted. installing a higher capacity controller and matching display presents no electrical issues but does give you more power but not speed. Speed is normally associated with battery volts size .

battery capacity is associated with how many hours it will supply before being empty.

any wire that is looped from the controller body and back to the body regardless of colour might well be the low speed switch, it should not require cutting and should have plug in it.

If you don't want to hack out the controller, you can buy just the receiver, then you canget a KT controller and stick it in a bag under the seat, like mine.

 

Is this your receiver.

https://www.greenbikekit.com/e-bike-frame-downtube-shark-battery-mounting-base.html

If you don't want to hack out the controller, you can buy just the receiver, then you canget a KT controller and stick it in a bag under the seat, like mine.

 

Is this your receiver.

https://www.greenbikekit.com/e-bike-frame-downtube-shark-battery-mounting-base.html

Hi yep looks same

It's not a 250w motor in the sense you mean. Motors don't have power. The 250w is an arbitrary label for legal compliance. It should be able to manage around 1000w if you're careful or if it's a low speed version.

 

You should always buy controllers and LCDs as a matched pair to guarantee compatibility.

 

Many controllers have connectors for lights, but most of them can't provide the power for decent lights. It's always better to wire lights direct to the main battery with their own fuse and switch.

 

Hi, I found this post looking for information about Jorvik jet e controllers as I need to replace the battery and need to know how to confirm which ones are compatible with Jorvik. I found Varstrom at a reasonable price and on reading your post wonder if its worth buying a higher voltage and AH, will it give me more power up hills?

 

I'm a complete novice with electric bikes, trying to find out how to get a trike working that grinds to a halt on hills.

 

Any help appreciated.

Hi, I found this post looking for information about Jorvik jet e controllers as I need to replace the battery and need to know how to confirm which ones are compatible with Jorvik. I found Varstrom at a reasonable price and on reading your post wonder if its worth buying a higher voltage and AH, will it give me more power up hills?

 

I'm a complete novice with electric bikes, trying to find out how to get a trike working that grinds to a halt on hills.

 

Any help appreciated.

You need to help us out by showing us what you have - controller, battery, motor, LCD and anything else.

You need to help us out by showing us what you have - controller, battery, motor, LCD and anything else.

 

Thanks, I haven't got the battery off yet so I can't show the inside but this is a picture of the rail on Jorvik site.

 

 

 

This outside of battery:

 

Its a 36v, 16 ah, I have found a Varstrom compatible at a good price as I am poor, they state their battery requires XT60 controller and connection but Icant find any reference to this on Jorvik. there's also a samsung lg compatible on Greenlace but more pricey. Will any battery fit my Jorvik, or does it need a specific or Jorvik controller? can I use a tiger volt and ah or will the fry the motor? does a higher voltage give more power?

 

 

I can't afford a Jorvik battery so have to work out which compatibles I can substitute. Living in a very steep hilly area so need all of the uphill power help I can get especially as this trike is heavy.

 

Thanks.

Standard Tigershark battery that you can buy anywhere. I gave a link in the other thread.

 

BTW I've never seen or heard of one of those batteries leaking. In the old days, some cells would leak, but not enough to come out of the battery. I suspect that water has got in and is finding its way back out. In that case, the battery might be fixable if you have the competence to work a screwdriver and voltmeter.

Standard Tigershark battery that you can buy anywhere. I gave a link in the other thread.

 

BTW I've never seen or heard of one of those batteries leaking. In the old days, some cells would leak, but not enough to come out of the battery. I suspect that water has got in and is finding its way back out. In that case, the battery might be fixable if you have the competence to work a screwdriver and voltmeter.

That's great thanks,

 

I think it's leaking because it has whit powder on the base of the mount. It does work when charged but the bike is not functioning well, it just gives up on hills and I have been told it could be the battery. It's three years old, and I don't know how long it has been standing unused.

That's great thanks,

 

I think it's leaking because it has whit powder on the base of the mount. It does work when charged but the bike is not functioning well, it just gives up on hills and I have been told it could be the battery. It's three years old, and I don't know how long it has been standing unused.

When you leave a battery standing for a long time it can go out of balance because in many cases the BMS needs power to check whether the battery is still OK to give power. Sometimes, it takes the power from only one of the ten cell groups, so that one goes down to a level that prevents the battery from giving much power or capacity. The only way to know is to measure. You can get a clue from the outside by operating the charger until the light goes green, then measure the battery voltage on its main terminals. A healthy battery would be around 42v. Anything below say 41.5v should be given some attention to re-balance it. One that's been left for a long time might be as low as 39v.

Standard Tigershark battery that you can buy anywhere. I gave a link in the other thread.

 

BTW I've never seen or heard of one of those batteries leaking. In the old days, some cells would leak, but not enough to come out of the battery. I suspect that water has got in and is finding its way back out. In that case, the battery might be fixable if you have the competence to work a screwdriver and voltmeter.

Just to clarify, if I buy a new battery does the mount have the controller in it, and so I just need to make sure that the controller works with my motor and wiring?

When you leave a battery standing for a long time it can go out of balance because in many cases the BMS needs power to check whether the battery is still OK to give power. Sometimes, it takes the power from only one of the ten cell groups, so that one goes down to a level that prevents the battery from giving much power or capacity. The only way to know is to measure. You can get a clue from the outside by operating the charger until the light goes green, then measure the battery voltage on its main terminals. A healthy battery would be around 42v. Anything below say 41.5v should be given some attention to re-balance it. One that's been left for a long time might be as low as 39v.

How does one go about rebalancing it? is it worth me doing this rather than buying a new one? I don't have a charger so will have to buy one and don't want to spend the money on this if the battery is no good/

How does one go about rebalancing it? is it worth me doing this rather than buying a new one? I don't have a charger so will have to buy one and don't want to spend the money on this if the battery is no good/

Sometimes you can re-balance by leaving it on charge for a long time. I don't understand what your problem is. I'm totally confused. If you don't have a charger, how do you know that the battery has enough charge in it to work?

 

It's really difficult to give specific advice. You need to charge up the battery and measure the voltage. Depending on the voltage, you might need to open the case and do some measurements inside. Those measurements will indicate what you need to do after that. You need to remove the battery and show us photo. The photos you showed us don't add up.

My problem is I bought second hand, it was advertised as without a charger but fully charged After I bought it I was also told it had no keys, it had half charge and is incapable of climbing even a slight incline, as I found on my journey home up 715 feet, most of which I had to push it and its very heavy.

 

I contacted Jorvik to ask what could possibly be making it so difficult to ride even with pedal assist and they said it could be the battery. The battery appears to be leaking and I am getting conflicting information about whether it is worth keeping or not and no charger to charge it or keys to remove it, so I can break the lock, but then need to replace that too.

 

I have little techniacal knowledge and although I am capable of learning I also have limited tools, no money and a credit card debt stacking up with everything I buy. So I can buy a charger to charge it and see if it is working, or get it repaired, but I am trying to balance the probability with the cost that I just can't afford to waste any money on a possibility at the moment. So I am trying to determine, if I can buy a compatible battery that will work with the system controller of the Jorvik, becauseJorvik state there battery bars have the controller in them, and if using a higher voltage and ah battery will help with the performance of the trike at a all.

 

As you mentioned balancing I wondered if that was a viable option rather than replacing the battery as if I could get someone to do it as I haven't a clue, but if it is speculative then I can't afford the money to speculate I need to be sure that whatever option I take is going to work.

 

I'm asking questions as I'm being told things, Its a bit of a mine field of information and I am trying to wade my way through it to find the best possible solution with the least cost and no risk of whatever solution I spend money on failing.

 

I have a trike sold as fully working, that doesn't work, took it for a service to the local bike shop and he just rode it round the car park, adjusted the break lever while out of sight, then said, I think that is it, that's as good as it gets and pretty much refused to service it.

 

So now instead of the back brake rubbing on the disc, it doesn't work, I tried adjusting the brake myself but the bolt is ceased, it hasn't been serviced and needs it to determine how much fault is mechanical I can buy a charger from Jorvik , but there's no point if the battery is shot. but mechanics aside there is an electrical system I know nothing about, and don't have the money to speculate.

 

It's not my hobby, I bought this to help me haul shopping and hopefully the growing pile of rubbish in my garden that needs to be taken to the tip, as I don't have a car, and what I have ended up with after spending money I can't afford, because of unscrupulous seller , misadvertising by Jorvik and for some unknown nefarious reason of local spite is something I can barely use and is possibly dangerous in many ways.

 

I just need to get it working for as little money as possible, and with as much power as possible because I live on the top of a very steep hill 705 ft above sea level and the only way out of town is to go down one or more steep hills and back up them again. And I need to repair it with little knowledge, no money a few tools and a limited space in my garden to manoeuvre, the very big and heavy trike.

 

At the moment I don't know :

 

If its worth getting the battery repaired.

If it's worth buying a charger.

should buy a new battery and charger.

What V and Ah is best for the new battery and if I increase them form36/16 will work without frying the motor and controller.

Will the controller of a new battery will work with Jorvik system, as they state the controller is in the battery bar, and I don't know and can't find the information if compatible also have this and it replaces the Jorvik one or if the compatibles work for a controller placed elsewhere on the system.

 

I lost , sorry for all of the questions but I really don't know what to do for the best!

My problem is I bought second hand, it was advertised as without a charger but fully charged After I bought it I was also told it had no keys, it had half charge and is incapable of climbing even a slight incline, as I found on my journey home up 715 feet, most of which I had to push it and its very heavy.

 

I contacted Jorvik to ask what could possibly be making it so difficult to ride even with pedal assist and they said it could be the battery. The battery appears to be leaking and I am getting conflicting information about whether it is worth keeping or not and no charger to charge it or keys to remove it, so I can break the lock, but then need to replace that too.

 

I have little techniacal knowledge and although I am capable of learning I also have limited tools, no money and a credit card debt stacking up with everything I buy. So I can buy a charger to charge it and see if it is working, or get it repaired, but I am trying to balance the probability with the cost that I just can't afford to waste any money on a possibility at the moment. So I am trying to determine, if I can buy a compatible battery that will work with the system controller of the Jorvik, becauseJorvik state there battery bars have the controller in them, and if using a higher voltage and ah battery will help with the performance of the trike at a all.

 

As you mentioned balancing I wondered if that was a viable option rather than replacing the battery as if I could get someone to do it as I haven't a clue, but if it is speculative then I can't afford the money to speculate I need to be sure that whatever option I take is going to work.

 

I'm asking questions as I'm being told things, Its a bit of a mine field of information and I am trying to wade my way through it to find the best possible solution with the least cost and no risk of whatever solution I spend money on failing.

 

I have a trike sold as fully working, that doesn't work, took it for a service to the local bike shop and he just rode it round the car park, adjusted the break lever while out of sight, then said, I think that is it, that's as good as it gets and pretty much refused to service it.

 

So now instead of the back brake rubbing on the disc, it doesn't work, I tried adjusting the brake myself but the bolt is ceased, it hasn't been serviced and needs it to determine how much fault is mechanical I can buy a charger from Jorvik , but there's no point if the battery is shot. but mechanics aside there is an electrical system I know nothing about, and don't have the money to speculate.

 

It's not my hobby, I bought this to help me haul shopping and hopefully the growing pile of rubbish in my garden that needs to be taken to the tip, as I don't have a car, and what I have ended up with after spending money I can't afford, because of unscrupulous seller , misadvertising by Jorvik and for some unknown nefarious reason of local spite is something I can barely use and is possibly dangerous in many ways.

 

I just need to get it working for as little money as possible, and with as much power as possible because I live on the top of a very steep hill 705 ft above sea level and the only way out of town is to go down one or more steep hills and back up them again. And I need to repair it with little knowledge, no money a few tools and a limited space in my garden to manoeuvre, the very big and heavy trike.

 

At the moment I don't know :

 

If its worth getting the battery repaired.

If it's worth buying a charger.

should buy a new battery and charger.

What V and Ah is best for the new battery and if I increase them form36/16 will work without frying the motor and controller.

Will the controller of a new battery will work with Jorvik system, as they state the controller is in the battery bar, and I don't know and can't find the information if compatible also have this and it replaces the Jorvik one or if the compatibles work for a controller placed elsewhere on the system.

 

I lost , sorry for all of the questions but I really don't know what to do for the best!

Nobody can answer those questions without testing anything. You say the battery was half-charhed. How do you know it was 50% and not 10%? The cells are not leaking. I've dealt with hundreds of ebike batteries, and none have leaked stuff out of the case. If cells leak, you get a very pungent sweet smell that you can smell from several feet away.

 

A charger can be bought for £5.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009611281867.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.7.252b8c20lycoTs&algo_pvid=aacb6cbb-d0b2-455d-be13-bb2aa52dc12a&algo_exp_id=aacb6cbb-d0b2-455d-be13-bb2aa52dc12a-6&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%2218%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21GBP%215.04%214.38%21%21%216.62%215.75%21%402103846917553454820273506ee3be%2112000049628932886%21sea%21UK%210%21ABX%211%210%21m03_new_user%3A-29895%3Bn_tag%3A-29910%3BpisId%3A5000000174221173&curPageLogUid=LfUiE7kGGn09&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005009611281867%7C_p_origin_prod%3A

If you post where you live, maybe someone can lend you a charger.

 

One thing I don't understand: If you bought it with some charge in the battery, the previous owner must have had a charger. Can't you borrow it from them to test your battery.

 

Even if you don't have tools, surely, you know somebody that does have them and can help you measure the voltage, etc.