I think I have or maybe adjusted my front brake on my bike wrong, as now its worst than before i did it. I have enclosed 2 images.

I did move the part in yelloow box up higher. I think maybe it should have been towards floor

Whats the problem with your brakes, if it appears to be 'on' or partially 'on' as is perhaps you have pulled up the lever arm in your yellow box too far, but if too weak??

 

EDIT:

If too much brake as is, yes drop that arm about a cm and retry..

The problem is that you didn't adjust the fixed pad clearance first. On the back side is a set screw that winds it in and out. Wind it out until you can just hear it touch the disc when you spin the wheel, then wind it back a fraction until it doesn't touch. You then adjust the cable clamp and/or cable adjusters until you get the correct lever operation.

 

Be aware that on some cable brake calipers, there's a tiny grub screw on the periphery that locks the set screw, so if the set screw doesn't turn, look for the grub screw - or look first if you want to be clever.

Whats the problem with your brakes, if it appears to be 'on' or partially 'on' as is perhaps you have pulled up the lever arm in your yellow box too far, but if too weak??

 

EDIT:

If too much brake as is, yes drop that arm about a cm and retry..

 

I mean when I pull the lever at handlebar, the brakes are hardly gripping.

The problem is that you didn't adjust the fixed pad clearance first. On the back side is a set screw that winds it in and out. Wind it out until you can just hear it touch the disc when you spin the wheel, then wind it back a fraction until it doesn't touch. You then adjust the cable clamp and/or cable adjusters until you get the correct lever operation.

 

Be aware that on some cable brake calipers, there's a tiny grub screw on the periphery that locks the set screw, so if the set screw doesn't turn, look for the grub screw - or look first if you want to be clever.

 

 

Would you have a video of this, as I have not messed with brakes that much, Im sure I will be able to when checking

It's possible you may have worn the pads out and need new ones. If they're like the pads on my bike, the surface layer is about 2mm thick, but there is a1mm thick spring that goes between the pads, so when it looks as if they still have 1mm of braking surface left, they don't actually touch the disc any more. This results in them not braking when you pull the lever.

Would you have a video of this, as I have not messed with brakes that much, Im sure I will be able to when checking

I posted a good video about 12 days ago in a similar thread. Maybe someone can find it for you. I'm on a ferry at the moment with very slow Internet, so I can't search for you.

Clean disks and brake pads with isopropyl alcohol.

 

Check

Pad wear

Disk wear

 

If they are to worn out they need replaced, replace pads when they have 1mm of pad (not including backing plate) left.

Disk brake rotors have a minimum thickness and after that they need replaced. Shimano - 1 5mm, SRAM - 1.55mm, Tektro - 2.3mm rotor is 1.9mm, 1.8mm rotor is 1.5mn.

You can improve cable disk brakes by fitting Jagwire compressionless brake housing.

Use this opportunity to buy hydraulic brakes.

I posted a good video about 12 days ago in a similar thread. Maybe someone can find it for you. I'm on a ferry at the moment with very slow Internet, so I can't search for you.

 

 

This is quite a good explanation except for the bit about adjusting the stationary pad. He does it visually, but it's much better to screw it in until it touches, then back it off until the wheel spins without touching. Be aware that some brakes have a stupid tiny grub screw in the edge of the caliper that locks that adjustment. In that case you have to loosen it before you can adjust with the set screw. This is the most important adjustment that's often missing from instructions, so make sure you do it first if you want brakes that actually stop you efficiently.

 

 

Thanks all I will study video