There is the optional throttle on tsdz2, tsdz8 and the ts85 hub kit from tongsheng

Thanks [mention=6777]Waspy[/mention] I was going to use the existing chain as a measure and then add 6 links (going from max 42t to 48t)

 

I'm looking forward to seeing pictures of the finished project Peter. You will basically have a 15.5 MPH moped. More than 15.5MPh if you put a bit of effort in of course.

I'm looking forward to seeing pictures of the finished project Peter. You will basically have a 15.5 MPH moped. More than 15.5MPh if you put a bit of effort in of course.

Thanks,

I'm looking forward to it as a project. I've ordered that crankset / chainring, removed the existing front derailleur and chainrings , ordered a new chain, ordered 2 marathon plus tyres. Need to put on lights and mudguards

 

Although it's full suspension, I will use it mostly on roads and light trails and I'm hoping the suspension will give it a "plush" ride - I think I'll get it sorted as a non electric bike before converting

I suspect I will rarely get out of pas level1 , but it will be nice to know when I am riding in the hills that I can up the power and the 9 mosfet controller will be a bit more resilient, especially on very warm days .

 

I will take the rear hub motor and wheel off my existing bike - which is a 48v Bafang G020. I think having the electric motor allows you to make slightly different design decisions than with a manual bike. It doesn't matter so much if those marathon plus tyre are a few hundred grams heavier and have a slightly worse rolling resistance. Also, I'm not relying on the tyres for the ride comfort, hopefully the suspension does that. Similarly with the gearing, you don't need as many gears and with a hub motor, there is a "minimum speed" ideally you want to keep above, so no "granny gear" and hopefully my pedalling and the motor power can keep me going at a minimum of 7 to 8 mph up hills for the vast majority of the time. Will be an interesting experiment but following in the footsteps (pedal strokes ?) of [mention=3847]saneagle[/mention] and [mention=6303]Woosh[/mention] using full suspension bikes with hub motors

Edited July 21, 20241 yr by Peter.Bridge

 

I suspect I will rarely get out of pas level1 , but it will be nice to know when I am riding in the hills that I can up the power.

 

Interesting, I never use PAS level 1, for me level 1 just cancels out the extra weight of the motor and battery. I spend most of my time in level 3 and I save 4 and 5 for hills. But each to their own.

 

I just hope that 48 tooth chainring fits without hitting your chainstays.

 

I'm starting to wish I'd gone down the full-sus path before I started this journey. But anything's possible one day of course

I just hope that 48 tooth chainring fits without hitting your chainstays.

I think that should be fine, the chainstay doesn't really flare out from where the existing 42t gear ring extends to and there is loads of clearance. I think I can position the 48t gear where the existing middle gear ring is and still have a decent amount of clearance and will be a better chainline.

 

I'm thinking about mudguards and stand. I'm not sure whether the stand from the Carrera will fit because of the pivot points.

 

 

 

I'm starting to wish I'd gone down the full-sus path before I started this journey.

I agree.

Converting a full-sus sometimes seems a little more complicated but the extra comfort is well worth the effort.

Saneagle did also recommend starting any project with good second hand bikes in the past. He doesn't talk much about that now. I think the result is only as good as the donor bike so you should spend at least half the budget on the donor bike.

Edited July 22, 20241 yr by Woosh

I agree.

Converting a full-sus sometimes seems a little more complicated but the extra comfort is well worth the effort.

Saneagle did also recommend starting any project with good second hand bikes in the past. He doesn't talk much about that now. I think the result is only as good as the donor bike so you should spend at least half the budget on the donor bike.

Some older full suspension bikes are excellent donors for conversions. If the travel is not too much, the improvement in comfort is worth it for a very slight loss of pedal efficiency, but you can forget about most modern ones because they might have any of these features, which make conversion difficult: Through axles; no room for a large chainwheel; nowhere to mount a battery; chainstays too wide for a crank motor; no way to anchor a crank motor; weird cable routing; press-fit bottom bracket; suspension travel too soft for efficient riding; and more surprises.

 

I often tell people not to both converting their full-sus bike because it's designed for off-road riding, and they're asking about converting it to ride to work, not because I hate them.

Through axles

Tongsheng has made a through axle rear motor. It's now massproduced.

no room for a large chainwheel

It's not a critical issue. There are plenty with 40+T rings.

nowhere to mount a battery

I have a 36V 10AH bag battery on my full-sus bike. I could have had 48V10AH there too. I am not the only supplier of bag batteries, there are others.

 

no way to anchor a crank motor

you can always anchor a crank motor to the downtube or seat tube which don't move

press-fit bottom bracket

My TS85 kit from Tongsheng has PAS and torque sensors built inside the motor so PF BBs are not an issue.

Tongsheng has made a through axle rear motor. It's now massproduced.

 

It's not a critical issue. There are plenty with 40+T rings.

 

I have a 36V 10AH bag battery on my full-sus bike. I could have had 48V10AH there too. I am not the only supplier of bag batteries, there are others.

 

 

you can always anchor a crank motor to the downtube or seat tube which don't move

 

My TS85 kit from Tongsheng has PAS and torque sensors built inside the motor so PF BBs are not an issue.

Good. Next time someone with a full suspension bike comes on here asking about how to convert it, you can give all the exact details on how to do it, instead of just telling them to buy your motor. That'll save me a lot of writing.

Good. Next time someone with a full suspension bike comes on here asking about how to convert it, you can give all the exact details on how to do it, instead of just telling them to buy your motor. That'll save me a lot of writing.

In the past, you were more enthusiastic, budget rarely came to it. Nowadays, you seem to go straight to lowest possible cost solutions. Sorry if I sounded like wanting to sell something. I can't just say buy this or that, I have to have used the solution before I can honestly recommend it. I have already too many bikes, so it's one new solution a year for me.

In the past, you were more enthusiastic, budget rarely came to it. Nowadays, you seem to go straight to lowest possible cost solutions. Sorry if I sounded like wanting to sell something. I can't just say buy this or that, I have to have used the solution before I can honestly recommend it. I have already too many bikes, so it's one new solution a year for me.

In the past, you can make your own kit by buying all the individual components from China and get a really cheap kit. I would still do that for my own bikes so that I can get the best, but it's quite expensive to do that now and most people are doing their first conversion and don't want to pay more to get the best because they don't have any way to judge the different stuff, and they panic as soon as I mention changing a connector or swapping the pins around. The worst thing is that they do too much research on the internet and psych themselves up to believing that they need torque sensors and/or crank-drive motors.

Thanks,

 

Although it's full suspension, I will use it mostly on roads and light trails and I'm hoping the suspension will give it a "plush" ride - I think I'll get it sorted as a non electric bike before convertingo

A very wise decision, not least to get gearing that you can always get you up the last hill when battery is flat but much more importantly to set up suspension. Plush is my game, no tabletops nor big drops here but dually set up right, ignores tree roots, potholes etc, mine only has 4” each end but it’s a magic carpet. Hardtail is hard to take after a well set up dually.

My expectations, needs and wants are possibly way different from forum regulars, to me (lack of) unsprung weight is paramount but I come from a motorcycle racing background so I have some experience with suspension.

 

Seriously, grams matter, members here couldn’t understand my 7kg 1800w/hr battery, probably not my comfy leather seat nor dropper seatpost either but these are sprung as is my body weight.

I run tubeless, alloy cassette nut, ti qr spindles etc etc, difference is stunning, plush is the word.

I look forward to your riding it analogue and then with half a ton of motor in the back wheel, if you can’t tell the difference, ignore me, if you can, think of a better way.

OK, That's enough Internet for me today

I think the result is only as good as the donor bike so you should spend at least half the budget on the donor bike.

 

I couldn't agree more. I am glad Peter is slowly, but surely ascending to his Nirvana.

Some older full suspension bikes are excellent donors for conversions. If the travel is not too much, the improvement in comfort is worth it for a very slight loss of pedal efficiency

 

Yes - the rear suspension of that Scott Genius has 3 settings that you can adjust from a lever on the handlebar : Locked (a bit pointless for me), Downhill (6 inches of travel) , Traction Control (4 inches of travel and compression damping increased). I think I will leave it in Traction Control. Reading up about it online, the first version of the Genius rear damping setup was prone to faults but the version I've got with the yellow/black cylinders is pretty bomb proof.

 

you can forget about most modern ones because they might have any of these features, which make conversion difficult: Through axles; no room for a large chainwheel; nowhere to mount a battery; chainstays too wide for a crank motor; no way to anchor a crank motor; weird cable routing; press-fit bottom bracket; suspension travel too soft for efficient riding; and more surprises.

 

I think the one I have is 2007-2012 era with a normal bottom bracket and the chainstay isn't too flared. I took my battery when I bought it to check that it would fit on the downtube with room to slide on and off. The cable routing goes down the downtube at the minute but it looks like an easy job to move it to the bottom of the crossbar so that I can put the battery mount on the downtube. I think it would also work with a crank motor. It has been well used but well maintained and I can see parts have been replaced over the years - the seller seemed to have a batch of the same model bikes for sale - I wonder if it came from a bike hire place that has moved to a newer model.

 

A very wise decision, not least to get gearing that you can always get you up the last hill when battery is flat but much more importantly to set up suspension.

 

Yes - I have downloaded the original manual and it has some guidelines for rider weights for the 2 rear suspension cylinders - I will try it with the recommended settings for my weight.

 

I think I am going to optimise the gearing for it being a e-bike with assist and if that means if there is some failure or I run out of battery (not happened so far) and I have to push it up a very steep hill , so be it.

 

to me (lack of) unsprung weight is paramount but I come from a motorcycle racing background so I have some experience with suspension.

 

Seriously, grams matter, members here couldn’t understand my 7kg 1800w/hr battery, probably not my comfy leather seat nor dropper seatpost either but these are sprung as is my body weight.

I run tubeless, alloy cassette nut, ti qr spindles etc etc, difference is stunning, plush is the word.

I look forward to your riding it analogue and then with half a ton of motor in the back wheel, if you can’t tell the difference, ignore me, if you can, think of a better way.

 

Interesting - that's a very good argument for going mid drive. I will keep the original rear wheel just in case ! It does feel very nimble at the minute riding it analogue. The hub motor I am planning to put on is just under 3kg but I think that would be a big increase percentage-wise in unsprung mass.

Edited July 23, 20241 yr by Peter.Bridge

The future ? Sorry if posted before

Good catch!

 

I converted mine to 1*8.

 

I assume your bike has a square taper bottom bracket?

 

I dumped the front derailleur and left shifter/brake lever (whatever it's called) and fitted a normal left brake lever.

 

You need a crank puller, I recommend Park Tool CCP-22

 

You should watch some Youtube videos on crank removal.

 

And one of these, including crank arms (I started off with 34 teeth but now have 42 teeth):

 

Thanks [mention=6777]Waspy[/mention]

 

It's now 1*9. The 48t narrow wide gear is fine, about 5mm clearance of the chainstay Did a test ride and goes through the gears very slickly.

If it works then it works!

 

It looks a bit hard on the chain in the bottom two gears from the picture. If you sight from chainwheel to cassette without chain, which gear does it line up with?

If it works then it works!

 

It looks a bit hard on the chain in the bottom two gears from the picture. If you sight from chainwheel to cassette without chain, which gear does it line up with?

Between 6 and 7 . It does seem to go into gear 1 and 2 fine (not that I'll be using them much after I add the motor) but how would I move the chainring inbound ? (There is room)

 

ETA, just found places selling chainring spacers and longer bolts !

Edited July 25, 20241 yr by Peter.Bridge

Between 6 and 7 . It does seem to go into gear 1 and 2 fine but how would I move the chainring inbound ? (There is room)

 

I'd love to know that too. I've yet to find inward offset chainwheels for normal bikes - I'm interested in installing a normal 60T chainwheel to my BBS01B using a BCD spider adapter.

Between 6 and 7 . It does seem to go into gear 1 and 2 fine (not that I'll be using them much after I add the motor) but how would I move the chainring inbound ? (There is room)

 

ETA, just found places selling chainring spacers and longer bolts !

 

I fitted two 2mm spacers between each arm of the spider and chainring, I also bought 4 chainring bolts (they come in 3 different lengths. I now have a pretty good chainline.

 

Edited July 30, 20241 yr by Waspy

I fitted two 2mm spacers between each arm of the spider and chainring, I also bought 4 chainring bolts (they come in 3 different lengths. I now have a pretty good chainline.

 

You can't remember where you got these can you ? Mine seems to change through the gears fine at the minute, but I would like to do the same as you.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234195876381?var=533810878935

 

Or just search eBay for Chainring bolt spacers, I got some 1mm and 2mm.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/375511670380?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D269575%26meid%3Daf5b88176efe4962bf63f357cc39456f%26pid%3D101875%26rk%3D9%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D234195876381%26itm%3D375511670380%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D4429486%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuWithLambda85KnnRecallV1V2V4ItemNrtInQueryAndCassiniVisualRankerAndBertRecallWithVMEV3CPCAutoWithCassiniEmbRecall%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p4429486.c101875.m1851&itmprp=cksum%3A375511670380af5b88176efe4962bf63f357cc39456f%7Cenc%3AAQAJAAABcLC2%252Ba5TgOFYgIvLQSBIYkURSzHvc7cCccVTU14STgixqt2LHVH3DQgpuMCV11vSwIPgiyFOwqAlvyaCYV%252F3KC%252BV%252Bw2hITE7xTLMc%252FUAdPVM74mBrClyfys6h0qSntiKTtamp%252FwRG%252FuVgTYA%252FQ9W3Ox1vA0GraSb4JMRxeVcTuw%252FbvfsO7mDS6tzWet1HTCrTXsaRoyfhBtsu6UIGqFA23dvAsOCppGvee5oOGoSi4MPEY6xjkR%252BsYWLWScubD8y%252FaIlnJxMhTO3eNahYo3uUZQAOh4Izx6Jzz51FnbKv11C6Zbzt46ioTTXB5JqV6Jt%252BJPw2yrzWElE5Z6EdJ8nj0dZqPeaudFIatSGmX%252BT03Zh50ctKBlj%252BA8zEmKS3Wowc6b1IqyO7PBmIEz2qOaoPb7KRNBDi92cUCkOj6clYu0SHqpaQ0NrhXtk7YtCfF9OwdwlIzm2nwT%252BeSKbB8jrFrnw7I3OxFPaaTweWQOxFz5z%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A4429486&itmmeta=01J41ZB2PCRDWKG26W5T049C4N

 

or just search eBay for chainring crankset bolts

Can I reduce the maximum power on my KT 22A controller (when it arrives) ? The main reason that I got it was because it was 9 mosfets rather than 6, rather than needing more assistance. The 6 mosfet one occasionally overheated on very steep long hills on hot days and [mention=9614]Nealh[/mention] suggested the 9 mosfet one was a bit more heavy duty.

 

I know I can just use the lower PAS levels but level 4 PAS on KT, is, I believe 50% max power. Ideally I would be able to have 15a - 18a max current

Simply change C5 setting, some displays use a % reduction of up to 50% and some by 5a max in - 0.5v steps.

The 9 mosfet has greater heat sink abilitly and may have better mosfets, tbh I haven't cehcked the fets to see.