Hi everbody

Just bought a swifty e bike for my daughter from an auction site, broke my first rule, check it out first !!

It's a swifty AT656 and the error code that is coming up on the controller is the no 0 led flashing on and off. The led are 0 to 3 indicating the level of assist you requre

The older model indicates 2 = motor, 0-2 brake, 012 =controller

Thanks for any help

RB

Whats the battery output voltage following a full charge? and have you doublechecked everything is pluged in fully (If unasked it will be the issue..)

 

I dont know your bike, but google led me to this amazon ad..

 

Try looking for any identification/model numbers etc on the led display and use that for a google search with the keywords "manual pdf" or "error codes" In the ebike world its the display units used for i/o that have the manuals rather than the actual control boxes A clue/head-start as to where the problem is will save time..

 

everything is basically modular the battery representing the largest value/cost to replace, your bikes 'design features' may cause issues if the battery or control system need replacing so i will keep my fingers crossed for a healthy battery voltage report.

Hi everbody

Just bought a swifty e bike for my daughter from an auction site, broke my first rule, check it out first !!

It's a swifty AT656 and the error code that is coming up on the controller is the no 0 led flashing on and off. The led are 0 to 3 indicating the level of assist you requre

The older model indicates 2 = motor, 0-2 brake, 012 =controller

Thanks for any help

RB

Not enough info. Photos would help, especially of the control panel.

The bike is an Amazon bike so will be basic speed control system.

There isn't much info on the net about them.

Going on the info given regarding the older model have a look at the brake levers to check they are seated back correctly . If one can trace the brake cut off wiring back to the main controller , then one can temporary disconnect them at the controller to see if the error goes away.

Not enough info. Photos would help, especially of the control panel.

Not enough info. Photos would help, especially of the control panel.

Thanks for the replys The controller 0 led is flashing on and off about once a second. battery charged , all connections have been checked etc

Thanks for the replys The controller 0 led is flashing on and off about once a second. battery charged , all connections have been checked etc

Thanks for the replys The controller 0 led is flashing on and off about once a second. battery charged , all connections have been checked etc

The error codes may help someone else, they are for aTS19-R LED display which has the 4 LEDS eco 1 2 3 , not mine that just has 0 1 2 3 on the display

When you don't know what the error code means, you need to test everything:

1. Measure the voltage at controller's battery connector. Obviously should be battery voltage. 36v - 42v for a 36v battery would be an acceptable range, but if you've fully charged the battery and it's less than 41v, it needs some sorting.

2. Measure the voltage on the 5v rail. You can measure that between any ground (black) and any of the reds going to throttle, PAS or motor halls. It should be around 5v.

3. Check throttle signal wire voltage on it's connector while connected. it's the wire that's not red or black on the throttle connector. Should give about 1v to 4v when you twist the throttle. If there's more than one wire, your meter will find it. It's the one that's between 1v and 4v, assuming that it works.

4. Check that the pedal assist sensor is pulsing. Measure the PAS signal wire while turning the pedals slowly. Should pulse 5v on and off every time a magnet passes the sensor. The signal wire is the one that's not red or black.

5. Check the motor hall signal wires (blue green and yellow) on the motor connector at the controller. They should each pulse with 5v going on and off as you rotate the wheel BACKWARDS.

6. Mosfet test. Disconnect the motor cable and battery from the controller. Measure the resistance (200k scale) between the red battery connection and each of the three phase wire connections, then repeat with the black battery wire. Each set of 3 readings should be the same as each other and in the range 7K -24K. Though can be higher as long as they're all the same. Due to the capacitor across the battery wire, you can get a constantantly changing measurement while it charges. In that case, try swapping your probes round. Even though can be a moving result, the only important thing is that all three move in a similar way.

 

To test whether it's working, you should disconnect everything that's not needed, like Pedal sensor, lights and brakes. Listen for a tick or click from the motor when you operate the throttle, which indicates incorrect timing of the power pulses caused by incorrect connection sequence or faulty connection in the motor cable. If it doesn't have a throttle, lift the chain off the chainwheel, connect the pedal sensor and turn the pedals instead.

 

If your bike passes all those tests, it should work, so then you can look at any settings or other logical causes, like stuck brake switches, PAS installed backwards.

 

I think I'd start with the MOSFET test on your bike.

The bike is an Amazon bike so will be basic speed control system.

There isn't much info on the net about them.

Going on the info given regarding the older model have a look at the brake levers to check they are seated back correctly . If one can trace the brake cut off wiring back to the main controller , then one can temporary disconnect them at the controller to see if the error goes away.

Hi THe brake cables have disconnects, tested both brakes with a ohm meter, both open circuit when brake not applied, and closed circuit when brake applied . Good point though

When you don't know what the error code means, you need to test everything:

1. Measure the voltage at controller's battery connector. Obviously should be battery voltage. 36v - 42v for a 36v battery would be an acceptable range, but if you've fully charged the battery and it's less than 41v, it needs some sorting.

2. Measure the voltage on the 5v rail. You can measure that between any ground (black) and any of the reds going to throttle, PAS or motor halls. It should be around 5v.

3. Check throttle signal wire voltage on it's connector while connected. it's the wire that's not red or black on the throttle connector. Should give about 1v to 4v when you twist the throttle. If there's more than one wire, your meter will find it. It's the one that's between 1v and 4v, assuming that it works.

4. Check that the pedal assist sensor is pulsing. Measure the PAS signal wire while turning the pedals slowly. Should pulse 5v on and off every time a magnet passes the sensor. The signal wire is the one that's not red or black.

5. Check the motor hall signal wires (blue green and yellow) on the motor connector at the controller. They should each pulse with 5v going on and off as you rotate the wheel BACKWARDS.

6. Mosfet test. Disconnect the motor cable and battery from the controller. Measure the resistance (200k scale) between the red battery connection and each of the three phase wire connections, then repeat with the black battery wire. Each set of 3 readings should be the same as each other and in the range 7K -24K. Though can be higher as long as they're all the same. Due to the capacitor across the battery wire, you can get a constantantly changing measurement while it charges. In that case, try swapping your probes round. Even though can be a moving result, the only important thing is that all three move in a similar way.

 

To test whether it's working, you should disconnect everything that's not needed, like Pedal sensor, lights and brakes. Listen for a tick or click from the motor when you operate the throttle, which indicates incorrect timing of the power pulses caused by incorrect connection sequence or faulty connection in the motor cable. If it doesn't have a throttle, lift the chain off the chainwheel, connect the pedal sensor and turn the pedals instead.

 

If your bike passes all those tests, it should work, so then you can look at any settings or other logical causes, like stuck brake switches, PAS installed backwards.

 

I think I'd start with the MOSFET test on your bike.

That's a great list of tests to do, thanks alot. As the bike came without a key for the battery, some how i need to remove the battery to get to the controller. This type of bike doesn't have a twist throttle just push buttons for the PAS I'm sure there must be loads of people having had this same fault, but no info out there at all. Thanks again

That's a great list of tests to do, thanks alot. As the bike came without a key for the battery, some how i need to remove the battery to get to the controller. This type of bike doesn't have a twist throttle just push buttons for the PAS I'm sure there must be loads of people having had this same fault, but no info out there at all. Thanks again

You can often work the locks with jiggler keys:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/10pcs-Jiggler-Keys-Double-Sided/dp/B0136KCHL0/ref=sr_1_1?crid=VK3C3OKO2ZG&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9._99ruQi_wCZGsyjiuMeA4524tMW7-M719uP6BcqnSPJc6MYi0N_GZfYNBcQQMv7opNIqFu3h-j0uCU_cF4rBcUBPoXOxU-0VF3vv9kTwKbVSY80iCCOkONHssy7Xjs_w9zMAAJQFEHkAthGQJTO3_oQK485-iq00-wtue24GBLd3GGNzAsSo_bqqueCMiVHEoY0DEysu16nCMQwMw6bA_g.UJTH6z4r8xXBL6csvoenhgpgJwkODgjydTWeekYshfI&dib_tag=se&keywords=10+pcs%2C+Jiggler+lock+picks+for+double+sided+lock+fasteners+selection+tool&qid=1720604160&s=diy&sprefix=10+pcs+jiggler+lock+picks+for+double+sided+lock+fasteners+selection+tool%2Cdiy%2C123&sr=1-1

 

How to use them:

 

When you've opened the lock, dismantle it and remove the tumblers, then you can open it with any flat device, like key, screwdriver, etc.

Not enough info. Photos would help, especially of the control panel.

Just fixed my bike, drilled out the key lock, removed the controller and found that 2 of the 3 phase motor wires had shorted out ( due to water getting into the frame in the hole for the brake wires) That was causing the zero LED on the display to flash on and off, stopping the bike from working That display is on the LED are labelled 0 1 2 3, not Eco 1 2 3 type Hope it helps others. Thanks for those that replied

Just fixed my bike, drilled out the key lock, removed the controller and found that 2 of the 3 phase motor wires had shorted out ( due to water getting into the frame in the hole for the brake wires) That was causing the zero LED on the display to flash on and off, stopping the bike from working That display is on the LED are labelled 0 1 2 3, not Eco 1 2 3 type Hope it helps others. Thanks for those that replied

Is it working now? If not, check the MOSFETs because shorting the motor wires can blow them.

Is it working now? If not, check the MOSFETs because shorting the motor wires can blow them.

All working great thanks Was a bit surprised no damage to contoller. Will block off the hole in the frame where the brake wires goes in, bike had no mudguards