Please listen to the noise this make on the video clip.

 

I have just built this up using new and almost new parts But when starting from a standstill it jumps and makes a noise. When running the hub is quiet.

 

Once running it’s fine and can cover 6 miles with lots of battery left.

 

if I turn the power down low or use the PAS it will start without the jumping but I still think it’s a bit noisy.

 

thanks you

 

 

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/mpuofxkw8zlrhypi7nub1/IMG_2263.MOV?rlkey=hy52lyx3iem7rk1igup4eozc2&dl=0

Is the back axle wobbly? sounds like under load the rear wheel is pulled out of line and brakes start rubbing??

do you get the same noise uphill?

No it’s secure.

The wheel is almost new .

 

I wired colour to colour but what happens if the phase wires were different ?

 

I don’t think it’s mechanical but I am still learning

 

thanks

Lift wheel and run while bike is stationary. Still get the same noise?

The controller is losing sync with the motor. there are several possible causes:

Motor connector not in far enough;

Motor cable damaged;

Bullet connector at the controller end not tight enough;

Controller setting not right (mainly KT controller);

Controller compatibility issue.

Lift wheel and run while bike is stationary. Still get the same noise?

I just tried that and it’s perfect

thanks

The controller is losing sync with the motor. there are several possible causes:

Motor connector not in far enough;

Motor cable damaged;

Bullet connector at the controller end not tight enough;

Controller setting not right (mainly KT controller);

Controller compatibility issue.

Thanks for the reply.

The wiring between the motor and controller is all new and good connectors.

There are no bullet connectors. I have plastic block connectors with soldered wire crimped tight and soldered.

Can you explain about incompatibility please.

AsI said I joined colour to colour from the controller to the motor but from what I read that is not always correct?

Thank you

Thanks for the reply.

The wiring between the motor and controller is all new and good connectors.

There are no bullet connectors. I have plastic block connectors with soldered wire crimped tight and soldered.

Can you explain about incompatibility please.

AsI said I joined colour to colour from the controller to the motor but from what I read that is not always correct?

Thank you

I said to make sure the motor connector is in far enough, not to check whether it's old or new. There is a line, which the outer must reach. 1mm short of that line is too far.

 

Which controller and LCD do you have?

I've never seen a block connector at the controller end for the three motor phase wires. Is it possible to show a photo?

I said to make sure the motor connector is in far enough, not to check whether it's old or new. There is a line, which the outer must reach. 1mm short of that line is too far.

 

Which controller and LCD do you have?

I've never seen a block connector at the controller end for the three motor phase wires. Is it possible to show a photo?

 

Sorry I thought you was meaning the 5 thin wires that I fitted the plastic block to.

 

The main 3 wires are secure. And attached is a picture of my Controller.

 

the controller and display all came as a kit.

 

It does feel as though something can’t get enough power when on high setting.

 

although the wheel is almost new I did buy it in so don’t know it’s history.

 

thanks Ken

Sorry I thought you was meaning the 5 thin wires that I fitted the plastic block to.

 

The main 3 wires are secure. And attached is a picture of my Controller.

 

the controller and display all came as a kit.

 

It does feel as though something can’t get enough power when on high setting.

 

although the wheel is almost new I did buy it in so don’t know it’s history.

 

thanks Ken

I meant the connector at the motor end of the cable - if you have one. Those Brainpower controllers are very good for compatibility, so I don't think that's going to be the problem, but it's leading me to the possible cause. Did you do the self-learning procedure (also called intelligent identification and words like that? The self-learning configures the controller for your motor.

Sorry I thought you was meaning the 5 thin wires that I fitted the plastic block to.

 

The main 3 wires are secure. And attached is a picture of my Controller.

 

the controller and display all came as a kit.

 

It does feel as though something can’t get enough power when on high setting.

 

although the wheel is almost new here I did buy it in so don’t know it’s history.

 

thanks Ken

It might be worth checking to see if the controller supports the settings you're using, or try recalibrating it.

You mean the small 9 pin connector?

yes that’s solid

it’s very basic from what I can see to set up.

 

It found its own voltage and you get

wheel size.

magnet count.

speed dection. This means fitting the magnet on a spoke and a sensor and choosing 1 or 0. I fitted the same kit a few weeks ago and the only difference this made was that it only shows speed while on power without it. This bike never used the throttle, only PAS and was fine.

oh and battery min voltage that I set to 29v .

that’s about all I found and the instructions are very poorly translated

 

can I ask if colour to colour on the wires to the wheel will be correct. I have read that these can be wrong.

once moving this is quiet and runs fine.

 

I looked up the number on the hub and wheel I bought and it says 7” wheel width so this may have been respoked but it is 20” and looks new.

 

thanks for your help

Edited September 9, 20241 yr by KERABO

Re Self learning

if you mean the wire you join and part that sets the direction then yes I used that But only for direction .

You mean the small 9 pin connector?

yes that’s solid

it’s very basic from what I can see to set up.

 

It found its own voltage and you get

wheel size.

magnet count.

speed dection. This means fitting the magnet on a spoke and a sensor and choosing 1 or 0. I fitted the same kit a few weeks ago and the only difference this made was that it only shows speed while on power without it. This bike never used the throttle, only PAS and was fine.

oh and battery min voltage that I set to 29v .

that’s about all I found and the instructions are very poorly translated

 

can I ask if colour to colour on the wires to the wheel will be correct. I have read that these can be wrong.

once moving this is quiet and runs fine.

 

I looked up the number on the hub and wheel I bought and it says 7” wheel width so this may have been respoked but it is 20” and looks new.

 

thanks for your help

Solid is not enough. The outer either reaches the line or it doesn't. Which is it?

 

There are three combinations of the wires that make the motor go forward and three that make it go backwards. Sometimes, there's a bit of asymmetry, so some combinations work better than the other, or a difference between backwards and forwards if you have a reversing controller. Confirm your motor connector is in, as I described, then it might be worth using the wire combination to reverse, then use the self-learning to reverse it back.

 

IIRC, to reverse, you switch the yellow and blue phase wires and the yellow and green hall wires.

 

Self-learning:

Switch off the controller;

connect the self-learning wires;

lift the motor wheel and switch on;

wait for the wheel to start rotating slowly;

switch off;

disconnect the self-learning wires;

switch on;

be happy.

If the motor goes in the wrong direction, repeat the procedure. Each time you do it, it reverses direction. Don't forget to disconnect the green wires.

I understand what your saying and will check and Change the wires and reset the rotation

thanks

I understand what your saying and will check and Change the wires and reset the rotation

thanks

Please let us know if it works.

Hello

I tried changing the wires but it had no effect. Found it tricky using the learning wire but got there in the end.

I am wondering if the hub was not as new as I was told. I am feeling it’s been re-spoked.

I made sure the connectors were aligned with the mark on the male pins.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/smh8a2voe4l6bjqphsig9/56F62318-D90E-4C7F-9249-00D889742976.MP4?rlkey=lwlwbliflowukr58qvmcenauw&dl=0

 

Its as if under heavy load something can’t deal with the power.

 

I am thinking that maybe I should send back the controller if I am not too late or I just live with it?

would there be any point in looking inside of the hub?

 

Thanks Ken

Hello

I tried changing the wires but it had no effect. Found it tricky using the learning wire but got there in the end.

I am wondering if the hub was not as new as I was told. I am feeling it’s been re-spoked.

I made sure the connectors were aligned with the mark on the male pins.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/smh8a2voe4l6bjqphsig9/56F62318-D90E-4C7F-9249-00D889742976.MP4?rlkey=lwlwbliflowukr58qvmcenauw&dl=0

 

Its as if under heavy load something can’t deal with the power.

 

I am thinking that maybe I should send back the controller if I am not too late or I just live with it?

would there be any point in looking inside of the hub?

 

Thanks Ken

It's not a motor problem. The controller is losing synchronisation with it under heavy load. This problem is nearly normal when you run a motor sensorless. Yours should be in sensor mode. Is there a setting in the LCD to force it to or choose sensorless mode?

 

You should check that the motor halls are actually switching because your controller will switch to sensorless mode automatically when it thinks they're not connected. Set your meter to 20v scale or whatever. Stick the probes up the back of the connector on the controller side while connected. Black probe to black wire and red probe to blue, yellow and green in turn, while you rotate the motor wheel BACKWARDS. you should see 5v switching on and off many times with each rotation, so rotate slowly.

Thank for your help

I am wanting to learn but getting to the edge of what I can take in but think I have it.

do you think I should claim a return for my controller before it’s too late ?

 

One thing I didn’t mention.

My wheel came with short wires only and no 9 pin connector.

I joined wires with the same thickness wires both thick and thin. I joined them by soldering twisted wires and then slid a heat shrink over each wire and a heat shrink over all of them to protect.

it’s not possible for the wires to give any sort of bad signal where there is only heat shrink for insulation?

 

 

 

 

The diagram and settings attached

 

Thank you

Edited September 10, 20241 yr by KERABO

Thank for your help

I am wanting to learn but getting to the edge of what I can take in but think I have it.

do you think I should claim a return for my controller before it’s too late ?

 

One thing I didn’t mention.

My wheel came with short wires only and no 9 pin connector.

I joined wires with the same thickness wires both thick and thin. I joined them by soldering twisted wires and then slid a heat shrink over each wire and a heat shrink over all of them to protect.

it’s not possible for the wires to give any sort of bad signal where there is only heat shrink for insulation?

 

 

 

 

The diagram and settings attached

 

Thank you

I've done that many times and never had a problem. Did you test the halls?

I haven’t got back to it yet but will come back as soon as I have.

thanks

Ok I checked as you said

I assume with power on?

Yellow 1.8v no movement

Green 1.8v no movement

Red 4.3v no movement

The Red and Yellow have double wires into the connector from I think speed signal?

There is an empty hole in the socket but the other side to the hub has a White wire.

Thanks Ken

Edited September 11, 20241 yr by KERABO

I don’t think you are doing the hall test properly. Make sure you rotate the wheel backwards so the clutch doesn’t engage.

 

4.3v on red is usually the supply voltage and won’t switch when the wheel is slowly rotated.

 

You should see green, yellow and blue switch between 1.8v and 4.3v as you slowly rotate the wheel. If you spin the wheel too fast then you won’t see it switch properly.

 

If they all switch then the hall test has passed if one or more doesn’t switch then the hall test has failed.

 

The white wire is usually for the speed sensor. And not all controllers need it to be connected, because they use the phase hall sensors to calculate speed.

 

Dont know what you mean when you say “The Red and Yellow have double wires into the connector”. Are you referring to the colour of the wires or colour of the connector.?

Edited September 11, 20241 yr by AGS

Ok I checked as you said

I assume with power on?

Yellow 1.8v no movement

Green 1.8v no movement

Red 4.3v no movement

The Red and Yellow have double wires into the connector from I think speed signal?

There is an empty hole in the socket but the other side to the hub has a White wire.

Thanks Ken

What about the blue wire? From what you've said, somethings not right. There should be a connector from the motor with red, black, blue, yellow and green wires. You measure the blue, yellow and green ones. Did you turn the wheel backwards?

Edited September 11, 20241 yr by saneagle

Try reading this tutorial to see if it makes any sense to you. It has photographs which may help you understand a bit better.

 

https://ebikes.ca/documents/HallSensorTestingFinal.pdf