Ah up old chums, Did anyone do an MTB build and post a thread with pics with a XF07 MXUS? I can not for the life, find it.

 

I am rethinking my bike sit & wish to look into 27.5" and 29er wheel ideas, with my MXUS(48v). There's a free 29er frame if I want it from a mate. Out with the old in with something fancy & new while I have funds. I realise that 29er might have a slow start compared with 26/27.5 but I wanted something fierce looking. Rambling's of a mad man at the moment, thinking out loud seeing if it makes sense.

 

Mxus fx07 14a KT-LCD3 48v battery when woosh restocks(battery only).

I can not for the life, find it.

 

It is probably because nobody (almost) is using hub motors on MTBs (unless MTB is not used as intended).

 

Rambling's of a mad man at the moment, thinking out loud seeing if it makes sense.

 

Isn't XF07 a front hub motor? No, it doesn't make sense unless you plan to use bike mainly on roads.

 

...Having that said, my very first conversion was 29" MTB with front hub motor.

Edited October 31, 20241 yr by Az.

mainly on roads

Yes road and occasional canal/gravel. MTB is the frame. Yep that pic is my thinking. Kudos, looks mean as... Mine; MXUS is currently on a front 26" and works well, but slow the bike parts are falling to bits, BB, derailleur & brakes adding new parts is less challenging but I need a learning curve to upskill and retain relevance lmao.

 

Was yours 48v or 36v? Any reason why the battery was not downtube mounted? & is that a YOSE front hub?[i have one of those too] + Any words of caution or wisdom you learnt from your build?

Ah up old chums, Did anyone do an MTB build and post a thread with pics with a XF07 MXUS? I can not for the life, find it.

 

I am rethinking my bike sit & wish to look into 27.5" and 29er wheel ideas, with my MXUS(48v). There's a free 29er frame if I want it from a mate. Out with the old in with something fancy & new while I have funds. I realise that 29er might have a slow start compared with 26/27.5 but I wanted something fierce looking. Rambling's of a mad man at the moment, thinking out loud seeing if it makes sense.

 

Mxus fx07 14a KT-LCD3 48v battery when woosh restocks(battery only).

 

I think a hub motor is fine for light off roading , canal paths, forest paths, trails, but most "general purpose" hubs become quite inefficient at less than 7-8 mph and up very steep gradients (steeper than you would get on tarmac roads). A 201 rpm version would be more efficient at that speed.

 

On loose ground, particularly up hills, a front hub is likely to lose traction (not enough weight over front wheels)

 

I thought there was a problem with running XF07 and XF08c at 48v - I'm sure [mention=6303]Woosh[/mention] has warned against it.

Yes road and occasional canal/gravel. MTB is the frame.

 

It should be fine then.

 

Was yours 48v or 36v? Any reason why the battery was not downtube mounted?

 

36V Yose, but your motor will most likely look almost identical.

Battery was mounted on rear rack because:

 

- holes on battery base didn't match holes on downtube.

- I was thinking of making stealthy e-bike by putting battery on rear rack and covering it by bag and maybe adding dummy disc rotor on right side of the motor.

 

In the end I moved battery to downtube as I didn't like balance feel.

 

 

 

Any words of caution or wisdom you learnt from your build?

 

You might need extra washers to fill up quick release recess and add torque arm for safety.

running XF07 and XF08c at 48v

I have mine on 36/48v controller and run both at 14a max, only issue is overheating in high temps summer months hill climbing, other than that it works a treat on 48v nice and quick.

 

end I moved battery to downtube as

Yer cool, I was thinking the battery on the rack wasn't going to be good for balance - as mentioned I have a YOSE front, same as most likely, the darn cable has a slight wear in it but otherwise a good spare.

 

How did you get round the mount holes on the battery rack? rivnuts?

 

Any issues with steep hills? like [mention=39093]Peter.Bridge[/mention] mentions?

 

particularly up hills, a front hub is likely to lose traction (not enough weight over front wheels)

I have mine on 36/48v controller and run both at 14a max, only issue is overheating in high temps summer months hill climbing,

Is that on 36v or 48v that it overheats or both? Have you already tried it at 48v?

How did you get round the mount holes on the battery rack? rivnuts?

 

I was considering rivnuts, but this is better option IMO:

 

https://www.yosepower.co.uk/products/e-bike-battery-installation-adjustment-bracket-only-for-hailong-battery

 

Any issues with steep hills? like [mention=39093]Peter.Bridge[/mention] mentions?

 

None on roads apart from this funny voice in my head especially when I was riding fast downhill or offroad: "Be careful. Be careful or your front wheel might go in other direction than you and your bike" (I have never installed torque arm).

 

Offroad and on steep hills it is exactly as Peter says - front wheel is loosing traction. Also on 29" wheel you will have less torque.

 

There is one issue you perhaps did not consider. MTB geometry. MTB bikes are more aggressive with more lean forward rider position. After 7+ hours in the saddle I felt it in my hands and neck. Hybrid bikes usually promote more upright and relaxed position, but you can improve it if needed with higher stem, handlebars etc.

Have you already tried it at 48v?

Good question, tbf it didn't overheat this summer on the 48v, I never used the 36v during summer. The last time it overheated was 24+ degs blazing sun. Although this was the black controller only, after a cool down it worked fine, motor got warm but not hot enough for concern, I tend not to ride in high heat as much now. Hence the passive heatsinks on the controller. See avatar.

 

installed torque arm

I am a avid t-arm enthusiast, err on the side of caution. However I would be considering steel forks not spenny.

 

After 7+ hours in the saddle

1 hour max

 

Much appreciated input, Kudos.

Mxus fx07 14a KT-LCD3 48v battery when woosh restocks(battery only).

 

If you are after cheap battery check 48V G70 15Ah Samsung battery:

 

https://www.pswpower.com/products/eu-no-tax-electric-ebike-battery-hailong-g70-samsung-lg-18650-cells-pack-48v-13ah-145ah-175ah-lithium-battery-fit-1000w-motor-108

 

Delivered for little over £160. Two for £220? Amazing value IMO

They are too cheap....something smells bad...

They are too cheap....something smells bad...

 

I am relatively confident they sell what they say they sell.

They are too cheap....something smells bad...

I got two from them yesterday for about £150 for the pair! Maybe they're clearing out before regulations change, like Argos did.

Maybe they're clearing out before regulations change, like Argos did.

 

Regulations change in UK? They couldn't care less. PSW left UK after Brexit. They always had very good prices. I posted this battery as a good deal in bargains thread back in July. Price went down since then a bit.

 

https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/bargains.46309/page-7#post-717409

 

I am not sure what buttons did you press to get wholesale price. Their shop is not that generous for me, but I don't need new battery at this moment, so I guess I can live with that.

Please let us know when you get batteries and what is inside.

I'm still sceptical, what black magic is this...they claim samsung 21700s 52V 20Ah for £215...?

 

A fire sale in lieu of regulations I could maybe understand, but that doesn't seem like the case?

 

Is there such a thing as a cradle adaptor for Parrot to allow them to fit on a 5pin Hailong base, does anyone know?

 

I'm still sceptical, what black magic is this...

 

Of course black magic is involved. Just think of it - electricity in your bike without dragging very long cable behind? All I know is that I am just charging my black box from PSW which you say smell bad and I will go on a bike ride with my family later today.

Edited November 1, 20241 yr by Az.

fire sale

fire period...

 

I got two from them yesterday for about £150

Are you going to peek inside behind the blue wrap and confirm the cell.

 

something smells bad...

Aye, agree.

 

I have opted for the 48v Panasonic from woosh when they restock. my bmsbattery 48v is on it's last legs, odd really I have treated it the same as the dillenger 36v and they are still functioning from 2016. The 48v cuts out after 10 miles and hates hills now. They are all dolphin so with woosh I'll have 2x 36v and a ify 48v to recycle *cough* landfill.

I've noticed if you look at PSW via ebay or Ali the prices are higher and presumably include VAT and if over £150.00 import duty. It seems that if you order from PSW's own store this isn't included. Has anyone ordered direct recently, and did you have to pay any extra on arrival?

That would at least partially explain the low battery prices, which are very tempting.

fire period...

 

 

Are you going to peek inside behind the blue wrap and confirm the cell.

 

 

Aye, agree.

 

I have opted for the 48v Panasonic from woosh when they restock. my bmsbattery 48v is on it's last legs, odd really I have treated it the same as the dillenger 36v and they are still functioning from 2016. The 48v cuts out after 10 miles and hates hills now. They are all dolphin so with woosh I'll have 2x 36v and a ify 48v to recycle *cough* landfill.

 

Is the dying battery in balance?

 

What is the voltage on the output port when the charger light goes green and the battery is fully charged.

 

I have had the problem of short range when the battery was supposed to be fully charged. The problem was that one cell group was only half charged when the others were fully charged. The charger senses the full groups and stops charging, but when I started riding, the low group soon reached its low voltage cut off point and the BMS shut the battery down. This is a very common issue.

 

If the voltage on the output of the battery when fully charged is less than about 54 volts, it may well be out of balance and recoverable to full health.

about 54 volts

Aye sounds about right, 54.XV fully green lit. Balancing sounds complex, can it be done with the standard charger? If there is any removing cells etc I am out.

Hi folks just adding some background as I've been using a 29 MTB with 36v Yose kit (upgraded to KT) for a couple of years now and like it a lot https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/yose-350-rear-hub-kit-transplanted-onto-scott.40186/

 

It's on semi slick tyres from Curio, rear motor is from a 26" wheel - relaced into a 29" rim, original Yose conroller has been upgraded to KT (I'd say this is an essential mod for Yose kit!).

Most routes are B roads or gravel tracks which it suits well, steering is good but I guess the larger wheels would be slower on the turns than 26" for any serious MTB routes.

I'm over 6ft so the XXL frame and 29 wheels are a better size for me, ride is smoother, torque from the motor is reduced due to the larger rims but it still runs happily at a decent speed.

I's a shame EVERY route from my house has at least a couple of short steep climbs where the motor bogs down badly - not enough to stall it but it's obviously running well below it's "happy" speed.

The first layout was with the battery on the rear rack, handling was fine but it was very tail heavy with the battery and motor all at the back wheel, the battery is now mounted on the frame and the bike feels a lot more balanced when you lift it.

 

Possible (but low priority) upgrades for the future involve moving to 48V and looking for a motor with more torque, ideally also wound for higher speeds..

Aye sounds about right, 54.XV fully green lit. Balancing sounds complex, can it be done with the standard charger? If there is any removing cells etc I am out.

What is the voltage on the output of the battery when the charging ends?

moving to 48V

Hi bud, still temporarily in the sun? Mine will be on 48v, do you think front hub would make much difference? The YOSE front had a good top speed on 48V (kt) the MXUS has a little more torque at set off. I think I will go with the 29er from the feedback from this thread, I feel more positive in my thinking, tbf I was anticipating a barrage of naysayers. The motor simulator says top speed unlimited would be 20mph that's enough for anyone imo.

 

Did you do the motor transplant yourself I can not remember?

 

voltage on the output of the battery when the charging ends?

54.4V -I can not setup this battery as I changed out the xt90 on the controller for an xt60 in anticipation of the Woosh 48v. I currently use the 36v on a stealth controller from Dillenger but it will only take the 36V, I wouldn't consider risking it for a voltage check either if that blows I am bike-less and when I do use the bus[once a year] I end up with "bus" germs and is ill for a month... At a push I could get an XT60 to XT90 converter as the battery rack passthrough is still XT90, I won't be using this rack mount with the new battery.

[mention=18050]PC2017[/mention] yep I'm still temporarily in the sun - and hoping the move can be made permanent

 

The only front motor bikes I've used were older 36v 250W Ladies / Dutch shopping bikes fitted with very basic controllers, no risk of them behaving oddly due to very soft & slow power delivery. A newer / stronger front hub system might feel different..

 

Check the motor ratings, it's a while since i looked but Yose fronts were 250W, Yose rears were 350W.

I did the re-rimming myself using a hub from a Yose 26" wheel, new rear rim to match the original front (a good match and bargain price from Bankrupt Bike Bits), "Spokes by Ryan" for the obvious ...

Working out the spoke length and doing the actual lacing were the main bits. I fed everything into a spoke calculator then shared the results on here for a comments before I ordered anything. The work wasn't difficult but it took time. It's done and I'm happy but I think it's slightly off-center (the spokes are at their limit of adjustment so it's as good as it can be) - make sure you arrange a couple of hours with no distractions of phone calls...

I loosely built the wheel in an evening (using bike upside down in the lounge as a jig to hold the wheel) then did the truing & spoke tensioning in daylight the next day. I took 1/2 day total, next time would be a lot quicker.

Start converting bike by checking if battery will fit in triangle. 29" bikes have generally smaller triangles than 27.5" and 26". On this bike

 

https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/29er-mxus-xf07-wheel-build-good-idea-bad-idea.47991/#post-728855

 

I had to unclip brake cable from under crossbar. It gave me extra 2 or 3mm. Otherwise I wouldn't be able to remove battery.