November 7, 20241 yr Author 40.5v is low for 10s, either cells are crap or the pack unbalanced . Below is a genuine Eve 25P 20A Cell. [ATTACH type=full" alt="60604]60604[/ATTACH] Yeah thats weird as mine are defo blue, what is the difference between INR 18650 and ICR 18650 ?? and mine are 2.55ah
November 7, 20241 yr Yeah thats weird as mine are defo blue, what is the difference between INR 18650 and ICR 18650 ?? and mine are 2.55ah I didn't notice that before. ICR batteries are for laptops. They need more sophisticated control systems than your average ebike type BMS because they tend to overheat and catch fire. Also, they're not really suitable for the higher current that ebikes require, which is probably the cause of your problem. It might be dangerous to continue using them for your ebike, so definitely don't charge them in your house or bring your bike in. This is why I was asking you to tell us which cells you had! Edited November 7, 20241 yr by saneagle
November 7, 20241 yr The different names are the chemical make of the cells cathode. LCR = lithium cobalt oxide cells . LNR = lithium nickel manganese cells. Most modern cells tend to be LNR cells which have higher discharge /current ratings.
November 8, 20241 yr Author 40.5v is low for 10s, cells might crap or the pack unbalanced . What cell rating ? How have you welded the cells ? Are there some bad /poor welds? Which Buss material is used ? Below is a genuine Eve 25P 20A Cell. [ATTACH type=full" alt="60604]60604[/ATTACH] Hiya, it was 40.5v but after charging the battery was reading 42.2v, The cells are rated C. I used a spot welder to weld the cells, 6 spots on each cell, using pure nickel 0.15 x 8mm strips This is what i used
November 8, 20241 yr Author I didn't notice that before. ICR batteries are for laptops. They need more sophisticated control systems than your average ebike type BMS because they tend to overheat and catch fire. Also, they're not really suitable for the higher current that ebikes require, which is probably the cause of your problem. It might be dangerous to continue using them for your ebike, so definitely don't charge them in your house or bring your bike in. This is why I was asking you to tell us which cells you had! Ahh Thank you for clarifying that, when i purchased these cells i told her that it was for e-bike battery
November 8, 20241 yr Here's some data from Nkon, a trusted supplier. They list it as 7.65A max. My experience says that cells work fairly well up to 50% of their maximum discharge rate, so a 4P pack should be OK at 15 amps. In other words, if your cells are full quality ones, your pack should be OK for the application you have, other than the slightly higher fire risk. https://eu.nkon.nl/eve-inr18650-26v-2550mah-7-65a.html?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAire5BhCNARIsAM53K1ho24E3e_6UdaeSIE-9fH4L17swaIlDB33WezsPF2AABpLiKXyBglYaAlnJEALw_wcB You should try again with them fully charged, which should give a range of about 30 miles if you pedal with normal effort. Don't take too much notice of any LED lights on your display other than to expect cut-off when they show the battery to be empty.
November 8, 20241 yr Author Here's some data from Nkon, a trusted supplier. They list it as 7.65A max. My experience says that cells work fairly well up to 50% of their maximum discharge rate, so a 4P pack should be OK at 15 amps. In other words, if your cells are full quality ones, your pack should be OK for the application you have, other than the slightly higher fire risk. https://eu.nkon.nl/eve-inr18650-26v-2550mah-7-65a.html?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAire5BhCNARIsAM53K1ho24E3e_6UdaeSIE-9fH4L17swaIlDB33WezsPF2AABpLiKXyBglYaAlnJEALw_wcB You should try again with them fully charged, which should give a range of about 30 miles if you pedal with normal effort. Don't take too much notice of any LED lights on your display other than to expect cut-off when they show the battery to be empty. Thanks for all the info, i would test the bike myself but i had a full replacement knee 3 weeks ago, so quite limited movement at the moment, but i will get my son to take it out later and see how long the battery lasts, as it is the display says 1 flashing light which means its very low many thanks
November 8, 20241 yr Thanks for all the info, i would test the bike myself but i had a full replacement knee 3 weeks ago, so quite limited movement at the moment, but i will get my son to take it out later and see how long the battery lasts, as it is the display says 1 flashing light which means its very low many thanks The display is basically a voltmeter. It should show all lights when the battery is fully charged. If you have only one light left and flashing at 40.5v, then you probably have the display set to 48v instead of 36v. What's written on the back of it?
November 8, 20241 yr Author The display is basically a voltmeter. It should show all lights when the battery is fully charged. If you have only one light left and flashing at 40.5v, then you probably have the display set to 48v instead of 36v. What's written on the back of it? Thing is, it is flashing but 42.1V at the battery, when i originally connected the battery for the first time all 3 lights lit up, but then the next time i switched it on it went from 3 then 2 then 1 in quite a short time and now when i connect it, 3 lights flash then straight to 1
November 8, 20241 yr Thing is, it is flashing but 42.1V at the battery, when i originally connected the battery for the first time all 3 lights lit up, but then the next time i switched it on it went from 3 then 2 then 1 in quite a short time and now when i connect it, 3 lights flash then straight to 1 If only you would answer questions!
November 8, 20241 yr Author If only you would answer questions! i expect you mean, whats on the back of it ?? i cannot see anything on the back of the display as it is fixed too close to the handlebars cheers
November 8, 20241 yr Author If only you would answer questions! Hi saneagle, i don't know how the display would be set to 48V as it has always been a 36V bike unle3ss it can default to 48v when the bike has been stood for a while ? cheers
November 8, 20241 yr Author If only you would answer questions! my son has had the bike out today, he was riding up and down my estate for a good half hour or so approx 3-4 miles and the motor was still pulling like a train as it was when he first got on it, the flashing single light was still the same when he decided to stop and bring it in ??
November 8, 20241 yr my son has had the bike out today, he was riding up and down my estate for a good half hour or so approx 3-4 miles and the motor was still pulling like a train as it was when he first got on it, the flashing single light was still the same when he decided to stop and bring it in ?? Here's something you could try: Disconnect the battery and switch on the display. It'll probably flash on then fade off while it drains the capacitor in the controller. Try to switch it on again just to make sure that all charge is gone, then reconnect the battery to see if the display will bounce back to normal operation. If a display is dual voltage and has automatic detection, they can sometimes choose 48v when you connect them to a fully charged 36v one at 42v because it's ambiguous what you have. the way round it is to make sure it's unambiguous when you first connect it, ideally around 36v or lower for a 36v one or higher than 44v for a 48v one. If that doesn't work, you need to measure the battery's voltage while the display is flashing one light to see what's going on with the volatge. If the voltage is down, we need to find out why.
November 9, 20241 yr Author Here's something you could try: Disconnect the battery and switch on the display. It'll probably flash on then fade off while it drains the capacitor in the controller. Try to switch it on again just to make sure that all charge is gone, then reconnect the battery to see if the display will bounce back to normal operation. If a display is dual voltage and has automatic detection, they can sometimes choose 48v when you connect them to a fully charged 36v one at 42v because it's ambiguous what you have. the way round it is to make sure it's unambiguous when you first connect it, ideally around 36v or lower for a 36v one or higher than 44v for a 48v one. If that doesn't work, you need to measure the battery's voltage while the display is flashing one light to see what's going on with the volatge. If the voltage is down, we need to find out why. Hiya Saneagle, yeah i did that and noticed it flashed and faded away, but when connected again, it is still the same, after my son had been riding it last night, with the 1 flashing light, i measured the voltage and it was 41.2V, this is nominal i think, thanks for your help
November 11, 20241 yr Author If only you would answer questions! Hi saneagle, i have looked at my controller and it says maximum current 13amp, i have created a 10amh ( 10s 4p. 3.6V 2500mah) battery is this ok or is this the problem i'm having many thanks
November 11, 20241 yr Hi saneagle, i have looked at my controller and it says maximum current 13amp, i have created a 10amh ( 10s 4p. 3.6V 2500mah) battery is this ok or is this the problem i'm having many thanks The battery will be fine with only 13 amps.
November 12, 20241 yr Author The battery will be fine with only 13 amps. Ok thank you, back to drawing board
November 12, 20241 yr Author Hi all, a quick update, it was the display that was faulty, i tried ny friends display and it lit all battery segments up, so new display ordered thanks for the help
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