Thinking of converting my barracuda mountain bike to electric anyone know much about the yose power 36v 15.6ah kit please.

Pretty sure my kit included a 13ah battery but its been on the bike coming up 2 trouble free years - had an initial hic-cup with the pas sensor sorted with an email to support and a brief exchange - not the best support but not the worst either.

 

The pas/speed control was a bit of a hurdle to get accustomed to ( full power upto 8mph - pas1 full power upto 10 mph pas2... ) and i ordered the forum recommended controller upgrade and never fitted as i got used to the system after a week or so.

 

The Yose kit works and so far the battery is as good as it was..

 

While i live upslope from most locations there are few big hills near here but the motor hauls almost 100kg of me up all of them that i have encountered, though the steepest was a challenge to maintain 8mph closing in on the crown.

 

If you have major hills to climb perhaps a system with a 48v battery/system would suit better. Otherwise Thumbs Up..

 

Just ensure your crank axle is 17mm or less in diameter if you opt for the default pas sensor option, if a tad bigger than 17mm you could have the same issue i had others performed a successful mod/hack to the sensor I didnt and i bought a 2nd chainring side option sensor instead.

 

EDIT-Additional info - my use of the e-power is regular but light, i ride out without power mostly (down slope) generally using power only when tired or returning, weekly Millage? - low? I charge the battery once a week-10 days when needed.. and the KT controller ended up on my 2nd ebike - the number of ebikes NEEDED = the number owned +1 to paraphrase someone in here..

Edited April 3, 20251 yr by thelarkbox

Thinking of converting my barracuda mountain bike to electric anyone know much about the yose power 36v 15.6ah kit please.

All standard, well-proven and reliable Chinese stuff - same as most kits but a bit cheaper. As he said, it's a shame their controller is a bit crappy regarding the power algorithms, but most cheap kits are like that anyway, though Yose didn't used to be like that. I don't know why they changed.

 

If you tell us how much you weigh, what type of hills and rides you expect, we can probably guide you to a suitable kit. Different kits have different performance characteristics.

Many thanks for your replies, I'm 73 but fit, not many big hills here my ride will be woodland and canal paths ect, I have a fold up electric bike I use for the road, but would like to be able to go off road did you fit the front wheel or back? Thankyou.

Edited April 4, 20251 yr by detec52

I fitted the front wheel yose kit. I'd recommend the rear wheel though.

For the money it's a good buy at around £400 and a bit cheaper with the discount codes.

Many thanks for your replies, I'm 73 but fit, not many big hills here my ride will be woodland and canal paths ect, I have a fold up electric bike I use for the road, but would like to be able to go off road did you fit the front wheel or back? Thankyou.

I went for the rear wheel option. Better traction, and no risk of front wheel spin ..

I found the conversion was no more tricky than a rear tyre exchange with extra bolt on bits and cable management, yose are generous with cable lengths so lots of cable management and tucking away..

( a fair few ali express vecro cable staps would be a good addition..)

 

The Kit tools were/are fair quality (eg. rounded head hex key set).

 

And watch out for the mistake everyone including myself makes - mounting the motor wheel upside down, the notch in the axle for cable exit should point down.. (DOH! My bike was upside down when 1st fitted , yeah i deserve it..)

 

The one outstanding feature that is negative is the closed/basic controller The only configuration options available via the display is to:

a) Change the wheel size which has no effect beyond altering the speed readout ( power output and actual speed caps remain the same.)

b) Change the distance/speed metric from miles per hour to Km per hour.

I have two menus on my yose. I read that the 250w now don't have the 2 menus then I read that it actually still has? Not sure what to believe. I can change speed and amps and all sorts in the hidden menu

Many thanks for your replies, I'm 73 but fit, not many big hills here my ride will be woodland and canal paths ect, I have a fold up electric bike I use for the road, but would like to be able to go off road did you fit the front wheel or back? Thankyou.

We need your weight if you want advice for an appropriate kit.

Oops forgot that, well in the old money I'm spot on 11 stone.

Oops forgot that, well in the old money I'm spot on 11 stone.

OK, in that case just about all kits have enough power. Each 1kg you add means you need 1% more power to get up hills, so a 105g rider would need 50% more power than you.

I can sort of see how a speed based controller might suit some people, especially with the legal 15.5 mph limit. You choose the speed you want to travel at, the controller increases or decreases the power to maintain that speed depending on incline, power supplied by the rider, terrain, etc

Oops forgot that, well in the old money I'm spot on 11 stone.

I love your trailer in the photo. Will you be filling that full of stuff and pulling that along as well?

I can sort of see how a speed based controller might suit some people, especially with the legal 15.5 mph limit. You choose the speed you want to travel at, the controller increases or decreases the power to maintain that speed depending on incline, power supplied by the rider, terrain, etc

The problem is that you have less control over how hard you pedal because the motor is always giving all or nothing. The 15.5 mph speed limit makes no difference, because it's worse at low speed, and it's even worse on bikes with small wheels because of the higher motor torque and lower speed.

 

Speed control controllers are sort of OK if you have large wheels and/or low power. It was fine on 24v bikes because you could hardly tell when the power was on or off, and you always needed the low maximum power. On a 20" wheeled bike with 48v, you'd be wheeling every time you tried to start.

I love your trailer in the photo. Will you be filling that full of stuff and pulling that along as well?

No I'm going off roading only use my trailor for collecting wood or shopping.

No I'm going off roading only use my trailor for collecting wood or shopping.

If it's only for off-road riding, a crank-drive might be better. The Woosh 48v TSDZ2 kit is pretty good for that sort of thing, and their 48v TSDZ8 would cope with towing too. Hub motors are better for commuting and generally riding around.

When I say off roading sorry I mean road and canal paths and woodland ect.

When I say off roading sorry I mean road and canal paths and woodland ect.

It's the speed more than anything. Crank-drive works better at low speed. If your modal speed is going to be above or about 12 mph, a hub-motor is better. The Yose ones are optimised for 15 mph. You can get slower hub-motors optimised for low speed from the Chinese resellers, but I've never seen one in a UK kit.

Yosepower kits are very good value for money. I fitted 250w. and 350w. rear kits on my bikes. The 250w. is restricted to the legal 15.5mph and throttle to 6km. Top speed and throttle can be configured on the 350w. Top speed was in the region of 23mph, although I don't ride that fast anyway. In practice they are both good enough for road, canal and woodland riding . The 250w. is slightly better at hill climbing due to the different gears in the motor. The 350w. is quicker on acceleration and more fun! The Lishui controller supplied with the 350w. is much better than the YJT one with the 250w. kit. It "ramps" up and down more subtly in each PAS setting.

These kits are a good start for anyone, but I have since swapped the controllers for KT (15A and 20A) and displays. They make a big difference, giving a more natural "feel" more akin to riding a non-electric bike.

 

Edit/.. I should perhaps point out to any newcomers that, like any other 350w. plus kit, the Yosepower 350w. is NOT legal for use on roads or in public places in the UK - even if you restrict the top speed to 15.5 mph and not fit the throttle.

Edited April 5, 20251 yr by Cadence

The problem is that you have less control over how hard you pedal because the motor is always giving all or nothing. The 15.5 mph speed limit makes no difference, because it's worse at low speed, and it's even worse on bikes with small wheels because of the higher motor torque and lower speed.

 

Speed control controllers are sort of OK if you have large wheels and/or low power. It was fine on 24v bikes because you could hardly tell when the power was on or off, and you always needed the low maximum power. On a 20" wheeled bike with 48v, you'd be wheeling every time you tried to start.

 

Yes, I am a KT convert but , if I am remembering correctly, the Lishui controller was a bit more gradual than all or nothing, as you slowed it gave you more power and as you speeded up it gave you less power, although there was really quite a narrow speed band that you ended up in for each pas level

Yosepower kits are very good value for money. I fitted 250w. and 350w. rear kits on my bikes. The 250w. is restricted to the legal 15.5mph and throttle to 6km. Top speed and throttle can be configured on the 350w. Top speed was in the region of 23mph, although I don't ride that fast anyway. In practice they are both good enough for road, canal and woodland riding . The 250w. is slightly better at hill climbing due to the different gears in the motor. The 350w. is quicker on acceleration and more fun! The Lishui controller supplied with the 350w. is much better than the YJT one with the 250w. kit. It "ramps" up and down more subtly in each PAS setting.

These kits are a good start for anyone, but I have since swapped the controllers for KT (15A and 20A) and displays. They make a big difference, giving a more natural "feel" more akin to riding a non-electric bike.

 

Edit/.. I should perhaps point out to any newcomers that, like any other 350w. plus kit, the Yosepower 350w. is NOT legal for use on roads or in public places in the UK - even if you restrict the top speed to 15.5 mph and not fit the throttle.

Yes I'm leaning towards the 350w

Many Thanks for all your replies its been a great help, I was thinking on the lines of going 350w but thought better of it, don't want mr plod taking my bike so going for the 250w looking forward to the adventure

Pretty sure the 250w hub will have plenty of 'OOMPH' for you. and if you do need more a dual voltage controller upgrade and a 48v battery should give you circa 30% more torque and speed, and remain within the regs (with speed cap applied)

Nobody has mentioned the new woosh rear hub kit as an alternative. That's worth a consideration

Nobody has mentioned the new woosh rear hub kit as an alternative. That's worth a consideration

https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/a-new-kit-is-on-the-block.48471/

I am also considering building my first eBike for off road use, so doesnt need to be road legal so would assume the best option is the standard Yose 350W kit as it comes out of the box, or should I look at pairing the Yose 350W wheel / 36v Hailong battery with a different KT controller and Screen? I think i have seen that KT make a controller for the inbuilt hailong holder, but does these fit the same connectors etc as the Yose (Luishi) standard one? Thanks.