I collected this bike from Argos yesterday. It cost £120. Thanks to Waspy for pointing it out.

Edited September 11, 2025Sep 11 by saneagle

I'm a very happy chappy!

 

 

Look what I found in my shed.

 

£120 ?

 

https://www.argos.co.uk/product/2728067

£120 ?

 

https://www.argos.co.uk/product/2728067

 

Saneagle must have made a typo.

I'm a very happy chappy!

 

[ATTACH=full]64315[/ATTACH]

 

Look what I found in my shed.

 

[ATTACH=full]64316[/ATTACH]

 

Are you really going to fit 3 front chainrings to a 20" urban bike?

 

Also, where's the front mudguard? I think the mudguards look cool on this bike, a good fit.

You guys are very sharp. It was £120. I'll fit the I will remove the inner chain ring to simplify the arrangement. there won't be a front derailleur, but at least I would have the option to hook the chain onto the inermediate ring if ever my battery went flat. I'll line it all up first and see how it looks.

 

I ordered this 40-cell battery. I really wanted a 30-cell one, but I could only find them on Aliexpress from China, so 8 weeks delivery by boat. It's exactly the same as the one on Mikel's bike that I'm sorting out, so I was able to do a trial fit, and the screw holes more or less line up with the bottle fixings, so I probably won't have to mess about with rivnuts.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/176770211774?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11400.m144671.l197929&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=99f5b6b90485409398563059022c2a77&bu=43182428416&osub=-1%7E1&crd=20250911063551&segname=11400

You guys are very sharp. It was £120. I'll fit the I will remove the inner chain ring to simplify the arrangement. there won't be a front derailleur, but at least I would have the option to hook the chain onto the inermediate ring if ever my battery went flat. I'll line it all up first and see how it looks.

 

I ordered this 40-cell battery. I really wanted a 30-cell one, but I could only find them on Aliexpress from China, so 8 weeks delivery by boat. It's exactly the same as the one on Mikel's bike that I'm sorting out, so I was able to do a trial fit, and the screw holes more or less line up with the bottle fixings, so I probably won't have to mess about with rivnuts.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/176770211774?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11400.m144671.l197929&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=99f5b6b90485409398563059022c2a77&bu=43182428416&osub=-1%7E1&crd=20250911063551&segname=11400

 

Would this battery fit (36v 13Ah Haiong Pro)

 

 

Just thinking if someone wanted super cheap bike

 

Argos bike £120

Yosepower 20" conversion kit £134

That battery £91

Zoom brakes £25

DNP freewheel £20

 

Total £390

Would this battery fit (36v 13Ah Haiong Pro)

 

[ATTACH type=full" alt="Screenshot_20250911-185656.png]64325[/ATTACH]

 

Just thinking if someone wanted super cheap bike

 

Argos bike £120

Yosepower 20" conversion kit £134

That battery £91

Zoom brakes £25

DNP freewheel £20

 

Total £390

 

That's a pretty good deal.

 

Also, nice bit of space here to fit the controller/excess wiring.

 

Would this battery fit (36v 13Ah Haiong Pro)

 

[ATTACH type=full" alt="Screenshot_20250911-185656.png]64325[/ATTACH]

 

Just thinking if someone wanted super cheap bike

 

Argos bike £120

Yosepower 20" conversion kit £134

That battery £91

Zoom brakes £25

DNP freewheel £20

 

Total £390

I tried to buy that battery, but it wouldn't let me order. It said that it doesn't ship to UK from Germany. Their ordering system is very quirky. Sometimes I can order and sometimes I can't.

I tried to buy that battery, but it wouldn't let me order. It said that it doesn't ship to UK from Germany. Their ordering system is very quirky. Sometimes I can order and sometimes I can't.

It never lets me order batteries on the website, I always have to message them

 

"Alice " 2831684296@qq.com always sorts it out

It's great to see someone convert an Argos Urban, 'twas mentioned a couple of years ago as a conversion possibility by a pedelecer, can't remember who. With it's small wheel torque advantage, sturdy looking frame which doesn't fold in the middle, 100kg or 15.74 stone rider weight limit, ample space for a large capacity downtube battery... the right conversion might even be capable of legally hauling most of Rapid Fatso uphill. Might not be rapid mind, and he'd still be a fatso, but outlaw no longer.

 

 

 

 

 

It is of course possible these are two entirely different rapid fatsos, but it's difficult to tell because the faces of all fatsos are round.

Edited September 12, 2025Sep 12 by guerney

I don't seem to be having much luck these days. Every small task ends up big.

 

I did a trial fit of the battery. The middle screw hole is about 3mm out. I thought I'd be able to use it if I removed a couple of mm from the end of the base, which got the base on, but when I put the battery on, it touched the seat-tube with still about another milimeter to go before the lock pin would go in. It's not a big problem. I just have to move the battery up a couple of inches, and stick a couple of rivnuts in the frame, though I was hoping not to have to do that.

 

 

I won't be using the brakes, gears, shifter, cables, cranks or bottom bracket, so most have that has gone now. It only leaves the front wheel, frame, forks, stem and bars, though the stem, bars and forks will probably go later.

 

 

Now, the next serious problem. It's got one of these daft bottom brackets that are impossible to remove. I tried all afternoon, using every method I could think of, but it wouldn't budge. I've ordered the special tool for it, but I've got a feeling it's not going to be enough. If it fails, I'll get someone to weld a bar to it.

 

....... It's got one of these daft bottom brackets that are impossible to remove. I tried all afternoon, using every method I could think of, but it wouldn't budge. .............

I can get stuck ones off with a large stillson wrench suitably adjusted. I also use a suitable bolt passed through the bottom bracket cup from the inside and then thru the stillson open jaws with a very large washers (or plate with hole) and nut on the outside of the stillson tightened to stop the wrench from slipping off the narrow flat edge. Its usually a left hand thread so you turn the wrench clockwise.

This holds the wrench firmly to the cup. I have often had to use a steel pipe on the end of the stillson for additional leverage on older rusted bikes.

Edited September 15, 2025Sep 15 by Sturmey

Now, the next serious problem. It's got one of these daft bottom brackets that are impossible to remove

 

If someone bought that bike as a donor bike would they be able to fit a conventional PAS sensor to the fitted bottom bracket ?

Instead of adding rivnuts, cant you use one of these?

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/YOSE-POWER-Hailong-battery-holder/dp/B09SWPS5YT/ref=asc_df_B09SWPS5YT?mcid=6e48dab1cca83aee8a1ee88b472bfbef&hvocijid=10291960637129103302-B09SWPS5YT-&hvexpln=74&tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=696285193871&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10291960637129103302&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9198459&hvtargid=pla-2281435176898&psc=1&gad_source=1

Have you tried to fit the motor wheel yet?

 

...the stem, bars and forks will probably go later.

 

Why? What will you replace the stem with?

If someone bought that bike as a donor bike would they be able to fit a conventional PAS sensor to the fitted bottom bracket ?

Yes, it's the same as any bike as long as you can get that piece off. There's also a chance that you can fit it to the left side if there's enough gap between the pedal arm and the BB. In that case all you need to remove is the locking, but you'd need to fix the sensor to the other side of its bracket to increase its reach.

I can get stuck ones off with a large stillson wrench suitably adjusted. I also use a suitable bolt passed through the bottom bracket cup from the inside and then thru the stillson open jaws with a very large washers (or plate with hole) and nut on the outside of the stillson tightened to stop the wrench from slipping off the narrow flat edge. Its usually a left hand thread so you turn the wrench clockwise.

This holds the wrench firmly to the cup. I have often had to use a steel pipe on the end of the stillson for additional leverage on older rusted bikes.

 

A very good idea.

 

You could use one of these with some sillsons/adjustable spanner/water pump pliers:

 

Instead of adding rivnuts, cant you use one of these?

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/YOSE-POWER-Hailong-battery-holder/dp/B09SWPS5YT/ref=asc_df_B09SWPS5YT?mcid=6e48dab1cca83aee8a1ee88b472bfbef&hvocijid=10291960637129103302-B09SWPS5YT-&hvexpln=74&tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=696285193871&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10291960637129103302&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9198459&hvtargid=pla-2281435176898&psc=1&gad_source=1

Hmmmm! That's a difficult decision - £15 for a not very secure solution or 10 pence for a very secure one. Let me think!

A very good idea.

 

You could use one of these with some sillsons/adjustable spanner/water pump pliers:

 

I tried all that and what Sturmey said, with a lot of help from Thor's 1.6kg lump hammer. If it would be that easy, it would be done. If you remember, the last Argos folder I did had the same problem, and I successfully got it off using those methods. It's extremely difficult to hold a stilson or monkey wrench onto the thin metal while you try to turn it, and the metal is starting to distort. That's why I need a tool that's 100% the right shape:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204600773257?_skw=old+style+Bottom+bracket+tool&itmmeta=01K54ZEHYWSN04G16A1YG9F7EM&hash=item2fa3280a89:g:CfgAAOSw~H1lk9bl&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ef023CNNxQgDArr68aUvRYUDydIRtoFU42oB608Y56ME0OxvmglTrGmXEQ4561PQiUAIbFxI%2F3DuDfN7lvfSSI9aYiOHBUKQ25XPDI5MRSbPLoY240DtgV4bcfIuL5OVgmLO6cRB02u718%2BKRMtyGZSlYJaFLKYYd0vQBOy8onIHwCIcVQUjW4ON5nG18ThwGOZPPubKUsuBOsqXBrKO%2FMLZsAHgytC4w4Y1xj4V7%2BdZ1pkc21nG5%2B8Ajo%2FhUffic8BJ1m0QO5FYo%2B1v1Y%2BtOhfL4jGMXG1KG4R1FLYXMScIbAKYLQLI6q10R%2BP2XadEM%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9afup-pZg

I tried all that and what Sturmey said, with a lot of help from Thor's 1.6kg lump hammer. If it would be that easy, it would be done. If you remember, the last Argos folder I did had the same problem, and I successfully got it off using those methods. It's extremely difficult to hold a stilson or monkey wrench onto the thin metal while you try to turn it, and the metal is starting to distort. That's why I need a tool that's 100% the right shape:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204600773257?_skw=old+style+Bottom+bracket+tool&itmmeta=01K54ZEHYWSN04G16A1YG9F7EM&hash=item2fa3280a89:g:CfgAAOSw~H1lk9bl&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ef023CNNxQgDArr68aUvRYUDydIRtoFU42oB608Y56ME0OxvmglTrGmXEQ4561PQiUAIbFxI%2F3DuDfN7lvfSSI9aYiOHBUKQ25XPDI5MRSbPLoY240DtgV4bcfIuL5OVgmLO6cRB02u718%2BKRMtyGZSlYJaFLKYYd0vQBOy8onIHwCIcVQUjW4ON5nG18ThwGOZPPubKUsuBOsqXBrKO%2FMLZsAHgytC4w4Y1xj4V7%2BdZ1pkc21nG5%2B8Ajo%2FhUffic8BJ1m0QO5FYo%2B1v1Y%2BtOhfL4jGMXG1KG4R1FLYXMScIbAKYLQLI6q10R%2BP2XadEM%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9afup-pZg

 

That tool is pretty cheap.

 

I have had some bad experience with cheap tools which are supposed to remove tight things like you are describing. I had a problem on my old car with a windscreen wiper mechanism and the repair required that I pull the wiper arm off a taper. I bought a universal wiper arm puller and it broke first use. I worked out a way to get it off with old motorbike tyre levers and that worked. There were other failures too. One was a crank arm puller that stripped the threads on the arm and caused me to abandon the task. I gave the bike away to a ragamuffin.

I tried all that and what Sturmey said, with a lot of help from Thor's 1.6kg lump hammer. If it would be that easy, it would be done. If you remember, the last Argos folder I did had the same problem, and I successfully got it off using those methods. It's extremely difficult to hold a stilson or monkey wrench onto the thin metal while you try to turn it, and the metal is starting to distort. That's why I need a tool that's 100% the right shape:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204600773257?_skw=old+style+Bottom+bracket+tool&itmmeta=01K54ZEHYWSN04G16A1YG9F7EM&hash=item2fa3280a89:g:CfgAAOSw~H1lk9bl&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ef023CNNxQgDArr68aUvRYUDydIRtoFU42oB608Y56ME0OxvmglTrGmXEQ4561PQiUAIbFxI%2F3DuDfN7lvfSSI9aYiOHBUKQ25XPDI5MRSbPLoY240DtgV4bcfIuL5OVgmLO6cRB02u718%2BKRMtyGZSlYJaFLKYYd0vQBOy8onIHwCIcVQUjW4ON5nG18ThwGOZPPubKUsuBOsqXBrKO%2FMLZsAHgytC4w4Y1xj4V7%2BdZ1pkc21nG5%2B8Ajo%2FhUffic8BJ1m0QO5FYo%2B1v1Y%2BtOhfL4jGMXG1KG4R1FLYXMScIbAKYLQLI6q10R%2BP2XadEM%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9afup-pZg

 

Yeah, I think it's a very satisfying feeling having exactly the right tool for the job. But what a stupid design of a bottom bracket.

 

But I would still like to hear you've tried to fit the motor wheel with a 9 speed cassette fitted.

That tool is pretty cheap.

 

I have had some bad experience with cheap tools which are supposed to remove tight things like you are describing. I had a problem on my old car with a windscreen wiper mechanism and the repair required that I pull the wiper arm off a taper. I bought a universal wiper arm puller and it broke first use. I worked out a way to get it off with old motorbike tyre levers and that worked. There were other failures too. One was a crank arm puller that stripped the threads on the arm and caused me to abandon the task. I gave the bike away to a ragamuffin.

My plan is that tool and a bit of heat. If it doesn't work, I'll weld a 3 foot bar to it directly. If that doesn't work, it'll be chucked in a skip.

Edited September 15, 2025Sep 15 by saneagle

There were other failures too. One was a crank arm puller that stripped the threads on the arm and caused me to abandon the task. I gave the bike away to a ragamuffin.

 

Been there, done that. I will now only ever use a Park Tool crank arm puller.