I’m planning to convert my 2022 Pinnacle Evolution (26-inch wheels) into an e-MTB and I’m torn between two torque-sensing kits.

I’ve been looking at the Woosh 85TS with bag battery and the Yose Power A3Pro with bottle battery. My main concern is the torque difference: the Woosh is rated at 35Nm while the Yose claims 56Nm.

I'm worried 35Nm might feel a bit underpowered. I know Woosh has an excellent reputation for UK support and the Aikema motor is very light.

Does the 21Nm difference make a massive impact in "real world" climbing on 26" wheels? Is the Yose kit's extra grunt worth the added weight and potentially less "stealthy" feel?

Would love to hear from anyone who has tried both or has experience with with either

1 hour ago, gmbb said:

I’m planning to convert my 2022 Pinnacle Evolution (26-inch wheels) into an e-MTB and I’m torn between two torque-sensing kits.

I’ve been looking at the Woosh 85TS with bag battery and the Yose Power A3Pro with bottle battery. My main concern is the torque difference: the Woosh is rated at 35Nm while the Yose claims 56Nm.

I'm worried 35Nm might feel a bit underpowered. I know Woosh has an excellent reputation for UK support and the Aikema motor is very light.

Does the 21Nm difference make a massive impact in "real world" climbing on 26" wheels? Is the Yose kit's extra grunt worth the added weight and potentially less "stealthy" feel?

Would love to hear from anyone who has tried both or has experience with with either

According to the specifications, both are 36v. The Woosh has a 15A controller and the Yose has a 12A one. The Woosh can therefore provide 25% more power. A motor can trade speed for torque. The torque of any motor is proportional to the current. When you put that all together, the Yose motor would have exactly half the max speed of the Woosh to get that amount of torque. The conclusions, therefore are that:

1. The torque figures are complete BS

2. The Woosh bike has a max speed of about 30mph and is hopelessly inefficient at 15 mph

3. The Yose motor is optimised for max power at 7.5 mph and has a max speed (OTR) of about 9 mph.

Which ebike sytem to suit you depends on your weight, your fitness and attitude to pedal effort, the hills you have to ride up, and the distance you need to go. You haven't told us any of that, so no advice on alternatives can be given.

Personally, I don't think torque sensors provide any significant advantages, and the disadvantages of weight, reliability and availability of spares far outweigh any advantages unless you have some niche riding circumstances that would change that.

Those small bottle batteries are quite highly stressed, so they don't last long. Only get one if weight is an important factor for you.

Edited Saturday at 12:232 days by D8veh

Thanks for the info. I am fairly fit, weight around 75kg and am 5ft 7in. Mainly London commuting with a few hills, none too crazy. Looking to cover a round trip of 25-30 miles, would prefer to put some effort in. I did have a cadence sensor bike before and didn't feel I did any exercise. I do want to keep the weight down as don't want the bike to feel to heavy, I also like the bike to not look too much like a converted ebike and be more subtle.

1 hour ago, gmbb said:

Thanks for the info. I am fairly fit, weight around 75kg and am 5ft 7in. Mainly London commuting with a few hills, none too crazy. Looking to cover a round trip of 25-30 miles, would prefer to put some effort in. I did have a cadence sensor bike before and didn't feel I did any exercise. I do want to keep the weight down as don't want the bike to feel to heavy, I also like the bike to not look too much like a converted ebike and be more subtle.

It's not the sensor that was the problem. Many/most of the OEM bikes and kits at the middle and lower end of the price scale use crappy speed control controllers that don't give you control over how much power they give. You can solve that by swapping the controller for a power control one, then you have the best choice of how much pedal effort you want to give and how much power the motor will give independently.

If you want a power control controller, search for "KT controller", also known as Kunteng with various spellings. They have another advantage that you can fit a boost button that gives instant max power rather than going up and down the levels each time you come to a hump-back bridge or want max power to get you through a busy junction.

A cadence /magnet PAS set up combined with a current control controller is a totally different ride compared with a horrible speed control controller.