Tweaking an Aurora. I've just got one. Hooray!

 

I'm 5'8" and take 31" inside leg jeans. I couldn't get the suspension seat post low enough so swapped it for a standard one. Now I've got about 2cm adjustment left and I can touch tip toes on both sides. That's with a straight leg to a heel on the pedals which works for me. I've also moved the quill stem as low as it will go. So although the bike works for tall people it also works for shorter people. If you don't mind a bit of a reach to the bars, then I figure it should be fine for people down to 5'6"

 

As delivered the rack is quite high on the adjustment. I've drilled another set of adjustment holes, turned the links at the front upside down and added a 3mm spacer to the left side so the brake cable is not trapped. The rack and battery are as far forward as they will go on the front link adjustment. That must have dropped the battery weight 5cm at least and about 5cm forwards. There would be plenty of room to move the controller and battery another 5-10cm forwards but that would mean remaking the rack and rewelding the plate between them which is beyond me. I think Alien need to address this as the lower and further forwards the weight is, the less noticeable it is in terms of handling.

 

I've been working round the bike, removing rattles! The worst is of course the battery in the rack. Some small bits of old inner tube and tape where the battery is closest to the rack helped. That's the two side tubes and the rear most cross tube. The worst though is the front-back rattle over bumps because the lock pin is not a tight fit in the locating hole. Some soft foam on the front of the battery has helped.

 

I spent a lot of time routing and tidying cables. Long term I'd really like to see all the controller to handlebar cables use a single multi-core with a much smaller splitter that can be attached close up to the handlebars. There's more work to be done here turning it into a motorcycle style wiring loom. Making the handlebar slack in the two gear cables equal has tidied it up considerably.

 

As a motorcyclist I really don't like the pedelec at all. And with the Aurora's power, the transition from off to on is too much. I'm pretty sure I'm going to remove the pedlec completely and the pedelec-throttle switch. I'll leave that one for a few weeks.

 

I'm not used to disk brakes. Setting them up has been a proper PITA. I've greased both sliding pins and adjusted them for minimum dragging noise and I'm getting close. Hopefully they'll bed in with some use. There's more runout on the disks than I'd like but hopefully that will also sort itself out as they're quite bendy.

 

Overall, I'm blown away by this bike. It's awesome (says a happy new owner).

 

More later.

You're welcome to have a chuckle at my modifications to my ALien GSII here:

 

http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/electric-bicycles/5274-alien-gents-special-ii-improvments-modifications.html?highlight=modification

 

The battery also rattled as its probably the same mounting....I also put a switch into the Pedelec circuit so I can turn it off....

Tweaking an Aurora. I've just got one. Hooray!

 

I'm 5'8" and take 31" inside leg jeans. I couldn't get the suspension seat post low enough so swapped it for a standard one. Now I've got about 2cm adjustment left and I can touch tip toes on both sides. That's with a straight leg to a heel on the pedals which works for me. I've also moved the quill stem as low as it will go. So although the bike works for tall people it also works for shorter people. If you don't mind a bit of a reach to the bars, then I figure it should be fine for people down to 5'6"

 

As delivered the rack is quite high on the adjustment. I've drilled another set of adjustment holes, turned the links at the front upside down and added a 3mm spacer to the left side so the brake cable is not trapped. The rack and battery are as far forward as they will go on the front link adjustment. That must have dropped the battery weight 5cm at least and about 5cm forwards. There would be plenty of room to move the controller and battery another 5-10cm forwards but that would mean remaking the rack and rewelding the plate between them which is beyond me. I think Alien need to address this as the lower and further forwards the weight is, the less noticeable it is in terms of handling.

 

I've been working round the bike, removing rattles! The worst is of course the battery in the rack. Some small bits of old inner tube and tape where the battery is closest to the rack helped. That's the two side tubes and the rear most cross tube. The worst though is the front-back rattle over bumps because the lock pin is not a tight fit in the locating hole. Some soft foam on the front of the battery has helped.

 

I spent a lot of time routing and tidying cables. Long term I'd really like to see all the controller to handlebar cables use a single multi-core with a much smaller splitter that can be attached close up to the handlebars. There's more work to be done here turning it into a motorcycle style wiring loom. Making the handlebar slack in the two gear cables equal has tidied it up considerably.

 

As a motorcyclist I really don't like the pedelec at all. And with the Aurora's power, the transition from off to on is too much. I'm pretty sure I'm going to remove the pedlec completely and the pedelec-throttle switch. I'll leave that one for a few weeks.

 

I'm not used to disk brakes. Setting them up has been a proper PITA. I've greased both sliding pins and adjusted them for minimum dragging noise and I'm getting close. Hopefully they'll bed in with some use. There's more runout on the disks than I'd like but hopefully that will also sort itself out as they're quite bendy.

 

Overall, I'm blown away by this bike. It's awesome (says a happy new owner).

 

More later.

 

 

I must say that mine came pretty tidy with cables and the disks are very true and positive.Instead of rubber wedges ect to keep the battery quiet I found that wrapping a bungie around the rear bottom of the battery and the top of the rack and pulling tight has silenced it.

 

I`ve removed the triple chainring and fitted a new ali double (55T + 42T) I really only put the 42 as packing cos with that low bottom gear and the power you don`t need more than one chainring. I put a front pannier rack on with a pair of old small panniers that I put some tools in to balance the weight and with the second battery under the crossbar it rides very nicely.

hi i was thinking of getting one of these bikes also.just wondering what the alternatives are at the moment.as £995 is a lot.can this performance be done cheaper by a kit.

 

ive had to outrun a few neds throwing stones etc so the extra speed would be handy.

 

I ordered one of these kits as a cheap project. It has just arrived through uk customs with no additional charge's after 7 weeks at sea. I'm not entirely sure what I will get because I've asked for a black wheel and pedelec sensors which aren't shown. I don't expect much for £165.00 incl post but may be pleasantly surprised. If I never mention it again you know it's crap and if I contact you from the other side you'll know the power was awesome and I couldn't control it.

 

Electric bicycle Rear kit 36v 500W for 26 inch bicycles on eBay (end time 07-Oct-10 04:23:56 BST)

Edited September 10, 201015 yr by onmebike

I order one of these kits as a cheap project. It has just arrived through uk customs with no charge's after 7 weeks at sea. I'm not entirely sure what I will get because I've asked for a black wheel and pedelec sensors which aren't shown. I don't expect much for £165.00 incl post but may be pleasantly surprised. If I never mention it again you know it's crap and if I contact you from the other side you'll know the power was awesome and I couldn't control it.

 

Electric bicycle Rear kit 36v 500W for 26 inch bicycles on eBay (end time 07-Oct-10 04:23:56 BST)

 

 

Can`t see any feedback for this motor:eek: at that price it`s probably the picture you`ve bought:D

When they say "it will do 30mph" that`s when folded up in your pocket on a bus:D

 

Now you are going to prove us all wrong and it will be a blinder.

Can`t see any feedback for this motor:eek: at that price it`s probably the picture you`ve bought:D

When they say "it will do 30mph" that`s when folded up in your pocket on a bus:D

 

Now you are going to prove us all wrong and it will be a blinder.

 

Prove us all wrong? No one else has commented so I must assume you've been nominated forum spokesperson. Not long to wait, it will be here later today and I'm expecting to be pretty disappointed.

Edited September 10, 201015 yr by onmebike

Prove us all wrong? No one else has commented so I must assume you've been nominated forum spokesperson. Not long to wait, it will be here later today and I'm expecting to be pretty disappointed.

 

Well, it arrived and I've mixed feelings. I didn't get a black wheel as requested but did get pedelec sensor and magnet disc. The motor is big and black/silver in colour, 6sp freewheel and weigh's 8kg without tyre and tube.

The controller is black and bigger than expected. Brake lever's are pretty standard with cutout switches fitted. All connections except battery are fitted. Box was in pretty poor shape from shipping and I'm amazed only one nut was missing from a brake lever fixing. My main concern is the hub, its approx 2ins wide where spoke's fit through either side, although spoke's are pretty heavy duty. That's about it.

8Kg! Sounds like the first kit I bought, have they dished the wheel so as the rim is central? I had to do this myself on my first kit....

8Kg! Sounds like the first kit I bought, have they dished the wheel so as the rim is central? I had to do this myself on my first kit....

 

It looks pretty central and both side's of hub are threaded, I presume thats for some kind of disk brake assembly on the left? Cable also exits on left.

Fork's will need to be approx 160mm apart. I notice several spoke's will need a little tightening. Pretty easy fit by the look of things.

Is the throttle power dependent on the mode selected. For example is the top speed on low power the same as high power using the throttle only?

 

It's really quite hard to tell. First reaction is that the three modes vary the power output and also a limit on top speed. But actually I think for the same effort on the pedals in 7th, you get about 12mph, 16mph and somewhere around 23mph on the flat. I've found bridlepath riding best in Low mode. Medium is fine for cruising at a steady and easy 15mph on the road. The best bit for someone new to pedelecs is that you can maintain that speed regardless of changes in gradient.

 

I was initially sceptical about the pedelec. You do have to be aware of a surge when you start pedalling and a short delay when you stop. I found it best to stick to throttle on rough surfaces and starting, switching to pedelec for something like a cruise control. Until you're used to it and expecting it, it can catch you out.

 

I'm a little disappointed in the range. I got 22 miles today on a mix of road and offroad. Maybe I'm just being too lazy and not putting enough effort in. Or maybe riding perhaps a 1/4 of that on rough surfaces (even on low) is sapping the power.

 

The weight is really not a problem except for two circumstances; Climbing hills when the battery is used up (!) and styles. Kissing gates are fine as long as there's room to get the bike on it's back wheel. But styles are a serious challenge. And yes. Not only am I riding illegally on the roads, I'm riding illegally on footpaths. So sue me!

I`ve removed the triple chainring and fitted a new ali double (55T + 42T) I really only put the 42 as packing cos with that low bottom gear and the power you don`t need more than one chainring.

 

I would not want to haul all that weight up a hill that required the smallest chainring and biggest rear sprocket. So I think this is right. A double chainring would be fine on the front and I'd echo the need for a 52 upwards on the front. I spent a lot of time in top gear today. True off road was typically in 2nd or 3rd. On road 5th or 7th all on the 48T front.

 

I'm not finding it noisy at all. There's more noise from the rubbing front disk than the motor! I think I have finally understood the adjustment on the disks and got rid of the noise but actually I think I'd rather have V-Brakes.

 

Old Timer, what pressure do you run the tyres and are they the oem Cheng Shins?

I would not want to haul all that weight up a hill that required the smallest chainring and biggest rear sprocket. So I think this is right. A double chainring would be fine on the front and I'd echo the need for a 52 upwards on the front. I spent a lot of time in top gear today. True off road was typically in 2nd or 3rd. On road 5th or 7th all on the 48T front.

 

I'm not finding it noisy at all. There's more noise from the rubbing front disk than the motor! I think I have finally understood the adjustment on the disks and got rid of the noise but actually I think I'd rather have V-Brakes.

 

Old Timer, what pressure do you run the tyres and are they the oem Cheng Shins?

 

I run 55-60 psi and that is the tyre. From memory they are puncture resistant and although I have Marathons ready to go on I`m testing them out and around my area with all the thorns and flint they are so far (touch wood) doing OK.

 

I did another run today to try out the 55T chainring and found In med power I was using mainly 5th and 6th. 7th would only really come in using high power.

With regards the brakes, now set up I really do find them very progressive with a good deal of feel.

With regards to range that is around what I`m finding on the supplied battery but you`ll notice from other threads I have fitted a 13Amp Li-Polymer under the crossbar for longer runs.

I really like the close ratio gears that change so sweetly ( keep imagining they are more expensive)

 

I was saying to another member the other day how I always switch to throttle when approaching a junction ect and then with the throttle open just pedal away and switch back over to pedelec whether I`ve let the throttle return or not and the transition is always silky smooth.

 

Well! I`m quite satisfied at present with 99% of the bike, the 1% was the very narrow centre stand that I have changed for a side stand(in fact because I`m often parking up on rough or softish ground and the rear is quite heavy I`ve fitted two side stands) one at the centre and one on the frame at the rear and they support the bike a treat. I keep meaning to try my wifes centre stand that is almost double the width on the feet but I think it might come close to the chain.

 

Dave

Is the throttle power dependent on the mode selected. For example is the top speed on low power the same as high power using the throttle only?

 

I put the bike upside down yesterday and ran the motor briefly. The three power modes appear to be speed limited with no load. It's very noticeable that the wheel speed corresponds with what I felt in the saddle. That doesn't mean that low power doesn't help you when peddling flat out at 25mph on the flat but I suspect not. As to whether the power is also limited, I'm still not entirely sure. But I think acceleration is limited in the 2 lower modes compared with full power.

 

The controller is pretty damn good but if the above is true, it's not quite what I want. I'd rather have no speed limiting at all and have the mode control how much power is added. If I want to put lots of effort in and add only 50W that should be possible. Perhaps it is if you use the throttle to modulate it rather than the pedelec+mode.

I had a look inside the cable splitter at the front of the bike. There's a small circuit board with very few components but there is a 2 switch DIP switch. Any ideas on what this does or is for? This is the cable splitter that takes the multi-wire cable from the controller and then breaks it into cables to the throttle, mode switch, brake levers.

I'm not happy with the squeeks from the front disc. And no amount of adjustment of the cheap caliper can fix it. I'm currently considering two options.

- Upgrading the caliper to a more modern post mount.

- Fitting a V-Brake. My local bike shop claims that they can provide the screw in V-Brake posts for the suspension fork (10mm). Halfords should then be able to provide a cheap V-Brake set up. I'm assuming here that the levers suit V-Brakes as they're identical to levers used on Aliens and others with V-Brakes.

To my mind, brakes should be silent both when released and when being used. This is not always easy to achieve!

 

The rear disc seems to be less of a problem. Perhaps because the disc has less runout or perhaps simply because I can't hear it. Which is a good thing as

there's nowhere to fit a V-Brake.

I'm not happy with the squeeks from the front disc. And no amount of adjustment of the cheap caliper can fix it. I'm currently considering two options.

- Upgrading the caliper to a more modern post mount.

- Fitting a V-Brake. My local bike shop claims that they can provide the screw in V-Brake posts for the suspension fork (10mm). Halfords should then be able to provide a cheap V-Brake set up. I'm assuming here that the levers suit V-Brakes as they're identical to levers used on Aliens and others with V-Brakes.

To my mind, brakes should be silent both when released and when being used. This is not always easy to achieve!

 

The rear disc seems to be less of a problem. Perhaps because the disc has less runout or perhaps simply because I can't hear it. Which is a good thing as

there's nowhere to fit a V-Brake.

 

 

Luckily my brakes are silent on the Aurora.

 

When I converted my disk to v brakes on another bike I had to order a couple of titanium posts from HK.

I'm not happy with the squeeks from the front disc. And no amount of adjustment of the cheap caliper can fix it. I'm currently considering two options.

- Upgrading the caliper to a more modern post mount.

- Fitting a V-Brake. My local bike shop claims that they can provide the screw in V-Brake posts for the suspension fork (10mm). Halfords should then be able to provide a cheap V-Brake set up. I'm assuming here that the levers suit V-Brakes as they're identical to levers used on Aliens and others with V-Brakes.

To my mind, brakes should be silent both when released and when being used. This is not always easy to achieve!

 

The rear disc seems to be less of a problem. Perhaps because the disc has less runout or perhaps simply because I can't hear it. Which is a good thing as

there's nowhere to fit a V-Brake.

 

Please excuse my ignorance on how bike disc brakes work, but if they are similar to a cars, is it possible to apply anti squeal paste on the backing plate to reduce or eliminate the noise?

Please excuse my ignorance on how bike disc brakes work, but if they are similar to a cars, is it possible to apply anti squeal paste on the backing plate to reduce or eliminate the noise?

 

The problem is adjusting them so the pads don't touch when they're released. Bicycle discs are quite agressively drilled so they make quite a bit of noise when they're used, but the pads should then retract on release. The problem with these is that they are a sliding pin design with a fixed pad on one side and a moving pad on the other. The caliper rides on one loose pin and one adjustable pin that has a spring with a captive washer that limits the springs travel. The spring should push the fixed pad side away from the disc. The problem is that the caliper always ends up slightly cocked and the very slightest out of round of the disc means it rubs. The most recent designs use various different ways of centering the caliper and allowing it to rock in various directions. And the most expensive hydraulic ones are going to dual opposed pistons. I suspect though that a little pad-disc rubbing is common to all of them. Off road it's not a problem as there's too much else going on but it's irritating to have this little mouse going squeek, squeek, squeek when cycling quietly down a country lane. None of this introduces any drag, it's just noise.

I've done a couple of hundred miles on mine now (bought largely following Old Timer's recommendation). I'm very happy with it. It does my 17 mile round-trip commute without straining itself and I don't find it particularly noisy compared to other e-bikes I've tried (but, yes, the squeak is there). I laugh now in the face of hills and overtaking MAMILs on the up slopes is particularly entertaining.

 

However, I don't get much over 20mph on the flat in high power on the throttle. I was happy with that, but reading this thread makes me think I should be getting a bit more. I suppose it is possible that the computer's calibration is off, but is there another likely answer?

I've done a couple of hundred miles on mine now (bought largely following Old Timer's recommendation). I'm very happy with it. It does my 17 mile round-trip commute without straining itself and I don't find it particularly noisy compared to other e-bikes I've tried (but, yes, the squeak is there). I laugh now in the face of hills and overtaking MAMILs on the up slopes is particularly entertaining.

 

However, I don't get much over 20mph on the flat in high power on the throttle. I was happy with that, but reading this thread makes me think I should be getting a bit more. I suppose it is possible that the computer's calibration is off, but is there another likely answer?

 

Most likely answers are weight differences of riders(i think old timer is on the lighter side),sorry if i am wrong,tyre pressures can help a bit i notice old timer runs at good pumped up pressures,then there is the perception of a flat road even a slight incline will cut speed and a slight downhill will add speed considerably,i think old timers speeds were also achieved with a resonable amount of rider effort,in other words without the same person riding both bikes on throttle only on the same road with the same wind speed,you are unlikelly to get the same speeds.

Well guys I bought a 48 volt 500 watt Bafang BPM (that's more powerful than the Aurora), and I'm sorry to tell you that it's got nothing on the Puma motor, it is very nice quality though.

Most likely answers are weight differences of riders(i think old timer is on the lighter side),sorry if i am wrong,tyre pressures can help a bit i notice old timer runs at good pumped up pressures,then there is the perception of a flat road even a slight incline will cut speed and a slight downhill will add speed considerably,i think old timers speeds were also achieved with a resonable amount of rider effort,in other words without the same person riding both bikes on throttle only on the same road with the same wind speed,you are unlikelly to get the same speeds.

 

The thing is, the Aurora has enough power to hit the motor's max speed in High mode on the flat. At that point, the motor stops helping, so even if you pedalled really, really hard and made it go faster, the motor wouldn't be providing any assist. So if this year's model is faster than last year's model, it's because the controller has been pulled back a bit and the max speed is slightly less.

 

I've been having a discussion on another thread about exactly what happens when you exceed the max speed for the mode you're in by adding enough pedal power or downhill gradient. The conclusion I've reached is that any assist drops to zero. There are two reasons for this. First, the gear train starts to free-wheel as the hub over-runs the motor. The second is that the controller cuts motor torque to prevent the motor exceeding it's maximum design speed. This behaviour is inherent in SB-style geared hub motors. The only ways to get more steady speed are to

- Pedal harder with no assist

- Lace on a bigger rim to reduce the motor rpm

- Use a 3rd party controller with a higher max rpm

There are obvious problems with all three of these.

Today's little jaunt. 80 psi tyres which is probably too much. Mixed country roads, bridlepaths, footpaths, canal towpaths. Almost entirely low mode and pedelec, only switching to throttle for the most nadgery bits. 3 stupidly steep off road hills that were properly sketchy; I had the front wheel bouncing off the ruts and the back wheel intermittently spinning but the bike just powered its way up. I squeezed 30 miles out of the battery although for the last 3 or so it would cut out under any serious load, but it did actually help me up the very last hill to the home garage. Overall average speed while moving, 10.5mph

 

Its a beast that dominated anything thrown at it. On the flat on real roads I had no problem peddling at 14-15mph but the best thing about the trip was that Low mode 10.5mph max was also a minimum. Normal road gradients didn't phase it at all, whereas on the plain old hybrid I'd be in the middle or small chainset and the largest rear and struggling.

 

Off road, there's so little weight on the front and with the high pressures the front was skipping all over the place, but manageable at sub 10mph speeds. I think lower pressures would help a lot but so would moving the battery into the frame triangle. The front suspension does get used but it doesn't feel like it, I think again because there's so little weight on the front.

 

I nearly gave up at one kissing gate that wasn't big enough to use the usual technique of putting the bike on the back wheel and walking it through. I surprised myself by doing a superman impression holding the whole 25Kg above my head! The weight is the one big downside. Lifting the bike over gates and styles is not really on.

 

The next test will be to do the same kind of trip but on medium mode to see what the difference is in mileage. I did something like that but not scientific on the first ride and got 22miles range.

 

A quick summary of tweaks. This shouldn't be read as criticism as every bike I've ever had needed the same kind of work.

- Wheels trued. They were out of line and out of round.

- Front wheel bearings freed off. They were too tight.

- Pedals thrown away and replaced with ones that had real bearings.

- Strapless toe clips added

- Rack lowered as far as it will go and as far forwards as it will go. An extra hole drilled in the adjustment straps to go 1cm lower and the front adjustment straps inverted and swapped side for side.

- Locknuts fitted to the battery support plate bolts. I'd already lost one.

- Bottom bracket bearing retaining nuts tightened down. They were loose.

- I lost 4 disk retaining bolts. Replaced, torqued and loctited.

- The standard grips are a bit hard. Replaced wiith some old M/C grips I had lying around.

- 40v is too much for the 36V rear bulb. Replaced with a tiny bit of veroboard with 6 LEDs I had lying around and a 1K 1/2W resistor from Maplin. That got a bit hot so I upped it to 2K with no obvious change in brightness. It really should come with LEDs as standard. Bulbs are archaic! The front 6 LEDs are wired in series with a fat 1k resistor.

- Opened the controller box, tidied the wiring and made use of the double sided tape already on the controller itself to stick it down to the box base. Somebody had never removed the backing tape!

- Slime added to the tyres and pumped to 80psi. As above, I'll reduce this to 70 psi tomorrow.

- Shortened the front brake cable and the rear derailleur cable so they're neater.

- Swapped the mudguard stays front for back so the front mudguard is better supported. Shortened the rear mudguard so I can stand the bike vertically on it's rear wheel without dragging the mudguard. See kissing gates above.

- Swapped the centre stand for a side stand. Just slightly more secure. Less banging and rattles over rough ground. Marginally lighter, as if that mattered.

 

One warranty claim I should mention. There was a loose connection that appeared early inside the battery. Probably (according to Alien) the keylock switch or its connectors. The symptoms were a drop from 40v to 24v (or 0v) which killed the bike after 30 seconds of riding or so. Switch off, wait 3 minutes, fiddle with the switch and it would start again only to fail again 30 secs of riding later. Alien replaced the battery with no questions asked. This one appears ok, so far. They said they would fix my one, but the replacement has a different case, so maybe not. It sounded like this was not the first and there may have been a bad batch of keylocks. Like all warranty claims, they're annoying when they happen in the first week. But that's better than 1 week after the warranty period expires!

That last post may have sounded a bit negative and that wasn't meant. This thing is a beast and hilarious. Highly recommended! If you were considering one, go ahead. Just be prepared to personalise it a bit and sort out the few small problems. You'll love it.

I decided to replace my old £200 clunker that have been using for a 12 mile commute for the last 3 years and decided to try an ebike.

 

After searching around the web and reading this thread I went with the Aurora, it has just turned up today so I will let you know how it goes.