With the magnet on the rear wheel they go up to 15mph, remove the magnet and they might get to 18 mph.

What is the point of pedalling above the assist speed?

 

I want a bike that puts me on a level footing with club level cyclists, on the hills I'm more or less there, but as soon as the road is flat or downhill they leave me standing, for sure my current bike isn't the best, however I'm enjoying the help climbing and would like help on the flat too.

I want a bike that puts me on a level footing with club level cyclists, on the hills I'm more or less there, but as soon as the road is flat or downhill they leave me standing, for sure my current bike isn't the best, however I'm enjoying the help climbing and would like help on the flat too.

 

Sounds to me as if you would be looking at something like a Cytronex Cannondale or similar (not that I am a good source of information!).

 

Cytronex Electric Bikes - Cytronex Powered Cannondale Quick CX Hybrid Electric Bicycle

 

I am sure there will some members who have one of these who could advise.

 

Here's a cytronex in action (if you have lots of dosh)

 

So you can travel faster, lazy bones!

 

I understand now. There is no drag at all on the Enduro, so I suppose if you were fit enough, you could go faster but I don't think that the gears would be high enough. Bear in mind that it is a heavy bike.

To keep up with club cyclists you would need a light frame, narrow tyres etc.

There is a valid point with bikes maintaining a steady speed where both rider input and motor work hand in hand to acheive the best effciency and range.

 

Even geared hub motors will have some drag that makes it harder to owed past the assistance alot of the time. Mist people throttle off when past the assist speed with geared hubs to get a higher speed. But the best average speeds on an ebike are usually achieved by working hand in glove with cyclone with the motor around 12mph.

 

This is hubs though not crank drive. Glad your range is good and exceeds what most if not all casual ebike users will want.

 

After all the average commute is roughly 10 to 13 mile each way which you are easily achieving.

Did some measurements today.

Tonaro Enduro fitted with Schwalbe 26x1.95 City Jets (Slick)

On the flat, top gear, throttle only, slight wind=17.9 mph. (speed restrictor magnet removed)

Ditto, full throttle and pedalling 18.1mph. I am not very fit, arthritic etc.

 

The wheel outer circumference is 25.9

Front chain ring is 42 teeth, rear is 11 to 32 teeth.

This, if my maths are correct gives a bottom gear of 34 gear inches,and a top gear of 98.9 gear inches.

 

There are two motor controls, throttle only and pedelec. The throttle gives any where between zero and full power irrespective of the pedelec selector, it overides the pedelec if twisted when pedellecing (How's that for a new word?)

The pedelec is a simple, easily and cheaply repaired plastic disc of magnets on the left hand side of the cranks which passes a sensor on the frame. On the handlebar, there is a three position switch. As far as I can tell, the assistance is either voltage or amperage limited in the two lower settings. Even on low assist, there is slight assistance at 15 mph.

Speeds were measured using a Tesco's wired speedometer. Testing against the flashing speed sign in my village suggest that they are accurate enough.

Speeds were measured using a Tesco's wired speedometer. Testing against the flashing speed sign in my village suggest that they are accurate enough.

 

And people complain about speed cameras and electronic speed signs.

I say put one on every street, then I wouldn't have to spend a tenner on a bike computer

Here is a video I made of Jannie riding my Enduro without power. I was riding my Trek racing bike and struggled to catch her when she had passed me. When she turned the power on I was left for dead.

 

Do bear in mind that Jannie rode her mountain bike the 8 miles to work and back, every day, except for 3, last winter. We had snow drifts and -23 temps. She is no slouch on a bike.

 

 

Steve