Confused and looking for 48v 250w rear hub since Yose won't sell me 250w 36v kit with 15ah battery

[throwawaychap]

Hello All!

I've just recently signed up, but I have been reading the forum so much for the past few weeks to the point head hurts. It's a lot of information to soak up on a completely new subject for me.

I bought a new bike (Polygon Path 3, size L, 700c) that was on sale a month or two ago with the intention of converting it to an e-bike. It's decently spec'ed and has Shimano hydraulic brakes (160mm) rotors.

I was looking at Yose Power / YosePower kits from even before I found the forum.
Two threads - and posts - on here from the user @Cadence provided me with valuable information about their kits

Yose 250w. rear hub motor with Lishui 350w. controller?

HI, Finally joined after lurking for a while as a visitor! I've just bought a Yose 36v. 250w rear motor kit (cassette) and in the process of fitting. I bought the 250w. kit because it had black spokes to match my front wheel. I would have preferred the 350w kit but that has silver spokes. I...

www.pedelecs.co.uk

Changed 350 back to 250 yosepower

Hi all have kudos ebike 26” mtb fitted with 36v 350w rear moter, kt lcd 4 ,kt 17amp controller. My previous 250 moter failed so purchased 350 yose, found using thumb throttle 15mph old setup. 18 mph with 350w moter as it revs higher. Found using level 5 assist the controller would get very...

www.pedelecs.co.uk

Ideally I'd like to stay legal and he stated (since he has both 350w and 250w Yose kits) that one can use the 18a controller and the C500 display from the 350w kit to be able to unlock the 250w rear hub kit to full throttle and top speed.

He also states that their 250w motor does better on hills/climbing than the 350w motor. The latter has a higher top speed (23mph compared to 17mph) but is not as good on hills.

The 350w kits are well reviewed and are affordable and within my limited budget, but they have 350w engraved on the side panel of the motor, which scares me a little.

So I asked Yose if I could get the 250w rear kit, without the battery, so I could buy a battery separately since the 13ah is not enough for me, and while at it, also get their 18a separate controller and the c500 unlocked display.

They sell the 350w rear kit without the battery so I thought it wouldn't be a problem but they apparently do not sell the 250w this way.

I've read plenty of very informative posts from the likes of @saneagle, @Nealh, and @vfr400

In which vfr400 stated there are no disadvantages to 48v kits compared to 36v. And that technically any motor can be used with 48v.

SWX02 36V vs 48V

So what would be the advantages/disadvantages of a SWX02 48V based kit over a SWX02 36V kit please? Rear hub kit. This would be on a 700c hybrid, 85 kilo rider (with backpack for work) 15 mile commute (one way), some small hills. Thanks in advance.

www.pedelecs.co.uk

My First Electric Kit Conversion 250W

I want to mount only one wheel with motor, that is, the wheel would already have the motor built. I don't know if this is complex, but it seems like it's easy to watch a YouTube video, right?

www.pedelecs.co.uk

My one disadvantage I see with the 48v, is that I am struggling to find a kit or a motor with compatible controller that goes with 48v.


I'm eyeing the Woosh kit, 250v 48v - but it requires 180/203mm disc rotors, and I don't know what I'd have to do to overcome that.
And it's a little over my budget sadly.

So my question is, could I really use any of these 250w motors in 48v? Or which ones would be best? Which controllers?

I really like these tidy controllers from Woosh and Yose kits, with the 3 or 4 waterproof connectors and not the square connector types that have a cornucopia of wires everywhere.

My bike has 700c wheels.

Pardon my rather impulsive and verbose first post.

Thank you and Merry Christmas to you all.

 

[saneagle]

The best kit, IMHO, is an Aikema rear hub motor with KT sine wave controller and a decent 48v battery. The problem is that you don't see all three items as a kit, so you either have to compromise or buy the stuff from China and pay a bit more for it.

That VFR400 is a genius. You should salute every time you read one of his posts. There's another guy too that you should read - D8veh. Nealh is OK, but more a sort of "also ran" compared with these three. I know vfr400 quite well. In fact I taught him everything he knows and I see him nearly every time I'm out riding my bike. I even saw him today at Morrisons. D8veh is still seen at shows and places like that. Woosh saw him in the summer. His posts are now marked "deleted member 4366". I think he got banned or something like that.

You can find some motor and controller kits on Ebay with KT controllers, which would probably suit you. All you need to do is add the battery. Apart from that, there are loads of others on Ebay, Aliexpress and Amazon without batteries.

One thing you must get right is the motor max RPM. For definitely legal speed, you need 36v 201 rpm or 48v 260 rpm. For 20 mph riding, you need36v 260 rpm or 48v 328 rpm.

Woosh sell a 48v rear hub kit, which isn't too expensive.

Your bike looks good for conversion. You'll need a cassette motor, which is always a tighter squeeze to get in than a 7-speed freewheel one.

 

[Nealh]

Saneagle sees vfr in the mirror every morning .

The difference between the climbing of the two hubs is likely down to differing motor rpm, 250w likely has a slower windng speed.

 

[saneagle]

Saneagle sees vfr in the mirror every morning .

That's impossible. He has no reflection in the mirror.

 

[Peter.Bridge]

I bought the 48v bafang G020 (h405) rear hub wheel , winding code 12 which came with 250w stickers which I have dutifully stuck on. This was a 26 inch wheel. It seems a good balance between speed and hill climbing ability, especially with the 26 inch wheel. I paired this with the Woosh bottom bracket torque sensor kit. Probably a bit more expensive than the Yose kit but not ridiculous
Fits 160mm rear brake rotor

Page Not Found - Aliexpress.com

 

[Benjahmin]

I bought my Aikima motor from TopBikeKit. Got motor,controller, display, pas, cables etc.all from them. Bought the motor bare so had to build it into a wheel. Never done it before but it's not such a dark art and all went well with some help from youtube and advice here.
Have a look at Greenlance for batteries.
If going for rear hub you will likely have to increase the disc rotor to 180mm - something to bear in mind.

 

[throwawaychap]

Thank you all for your feedback. Believe you me I've read your posts twice and back.

It's a lot to take in when one is trying to piece this puzzle together.

I found 'endless-sphere' which is, as I gather, their 'Pedelecs' forum from across the pond; ergo I spent the day trying to dig up info there as well.

"Aikema rear hub motor with KT sine wave controller and a decent 48v battery "
Noted saneagle.
I dug a bit and only found this motor from Topbikekit but bare, meaning I'd have to build the wheel like Benjahmin did. Which I admit would be too steep a hill to climb for me.

And perusing topbikekit, even choosing your kit parts is confusing.
What motor cable length would be optimal?
Their motor cable range varies from 20cm to 170cm.

And as for KT sine wave controllers, 17a would be best? They tend to be 36v/48v rated. I see a few on Ebay. And I'd have to find a KT display that's compatible with it as well. Not sure which KT display is the best reviewed on the forum yet.


Peter.Bridge;
I saw that Bafang kit with the same motor, on Amazon I think, and I was very tempted, and the sticker idea is very alluring - but the nagging feeling in my head to opt for the safer side prevented me.


Nealh;
Yes, someone in @Cadence 's thread deduced the 250w Yose motor must be 201 RPM, and the 350w one ~260 or so.


I'm still on research phase. Right now I have two options:

1 - betray my instinct and go for Yose's 350w kit, with the separate controller (which I prefer), and without the battery.

Talking of Greenlance, would their 36v16ah or 36v20ah batteries work with the aforementioned Yose kit? These have Samsung cells allegedly, 2 year warranty, 1500 cycles.

2 - Or, try to stretch my budget and go for Woosh's 48v250w rear hub cassette kit with the DWG22C motor.

If I plan to ride say, between 12 to 17mph, would a 48v kit be overkill for me? Inefficient? Or are there really no disadvantages to 48v kits?
Then again, who knows if I won't be riding at 20mph in the future once I'm experienced o an e-bike.

I do have hills in my commute (~12 miles each way), they go for a few miles too.


Saneagle, I wonder what you and vfr400 talk about in your rendezvous. Whatever it is, it'd certainly fly over my head. And D8veh I haven't come across yet. I'll look out for 'deleted member 4366' since I'm reading this board so much I'm bound to come across a few of his posts.

 

[throwawaychap]

I've found some useful information on some popular 250w hub motors;
the link is from another forum, not sure if allowed so I shall not post:

But all credit goes to the user 'UpWrong':

XF08C MXUS rear motor wheels with freehub body for cassettes, available in 26", 650B and 700C(28") rims
weight: 2.9kgs, dropout: 140mm, maximum torque: 45NM

DWG22C-48V SHENGYI equivalent of the famous BAFANG 48V CST, huge torque, with freehub body for cassettes available in 26", 650B and 700C(28") rims
weight: 4.5kgs, dropout: 135mm, maximum torque: 60NM

SWX02 BAFANG rear motor wheels with thread for freewheels, available in 26" and 700C(28") rims
weight: 3.9kgs, dropout: 135mm, maximum torque: 50NM

SWX02-48V BAFANG 48V 250W rear motor wheels with thread for freewheels, available in 26" and 700C(28") rims<
weight: 3.9kgs, dropout: 135mm, maxmum torque: 60NM

Edit:

The AKM100 and AKM100cst are the same electric motors, only difference is the freewheel/cassette housing.
It is stated as 250W continuous.
It is 135mm wide.
It ways about 2kg (cassette version).

The AKM100H and AKM100Hcst are the same electric motors, only difference is the freewheel/cassette housing.
It is stated as a 350W motor.
The freewheel version is 135mm wide and the cassette version is 142mm wide.
It ways about 2,2kg

I'm posting this because dropout 'distance' is important I feel.
I reckon my bike has 135mm, but can stretch a little farther.
But I'm not sure if a motor like XF08C MXUS can fit, with it being 142mm dropout.

DWG22C looks comparatively heavy, if the information is accurate. But I've read good reviews on it.


Anyway, this is something I've come across I feel somebody else may find useful, with the motors' respective dropouts.

 

[Peter.Bridge]

I've found some useful information on some popular 250w hub motors;
the link is from another forum, not sure if allowed so I shall not post:

But all credit goes to the user 'UpWrong':

XF08C MXUS rear motor wheels with freehub body for cassettes, available in 26", 650B and 700C(28") rims
weight: 2.9kgs, dropout: 140mm, maximum torque: 45NM

DWG22C-48V SHENGYI equivalent of the famous BAFANG 48V CST, huge torque, with freehub body for cassettes available in 26", 650B and 700C(28") rims
weight: 4.5kgs, dropout: 135mm, maximum torque: 60NM

SWX02 BAFANG rear motor wheels with thread for freewheels, available in 26" and 700C(28") rims
weight: 3.9kgs, dropout: 135mm, maximum torque: 50NM

SWX02-48V BAFANG 48V 250W rear motor wheels with thread for freewheels, available in 26" and 700C(28") rims<
weight: 3.9kgs, dropout: 135mm, maxmum torque: 60NM

Edit:

The AKM100 and AKM100cst are the same electric motors, only difference is the freewheel/cassette housing.
It is stated as 250W continuous.
It is 135mm wide.
It ways about 2kg (cassette version).

The AKM100H and AKM100Hcst are the same electric motors, only difference is the freewheel/cassette housing.
It is stated as a 350W motor.
The freewheel version is 135mm wide and the cassette version is 142mm wide.
It ways about 2,2kg

I'm posting this because dropout 'distance' is important I feel.
I reckon my bike has 135mm, but can stretch a little farther.
But I'm not sure if a motor like XF08C MXUS can fit, with it being 142mm dropout.

DWG22C looks comparatively heavy, if the information is accurate. But I've read good reviews on it.


Anyway, this is something I've come across I feel somebody else may find useful, with the motors' respective dropouts.

Just to say I have used the Woosh XF08C 36V rear hub kit - it was brilliant (my niece, a medical student has "borrowed" it to get around campus) and will get me (100kg) up most hills with a bit of pedalling effort, although it's not quite as strong as the 48V Bafang G020 / H405 kit but say the Woosh kit will get me up 23% hills with some strong pedalling (which is much steeper than most hills you will encounter unless trying !) and the Bafang will get me up 28% hills The XF08C motor is a bit lighter (2.9kg) rather than the G020 (3.5kg) which I think causes less strain on spokes and dropouts.

The legal motor assist top speed is 15.5 mph in the UK. I think Woosh have curated their rear hub motors to be as powerful as possible at legalish speeds. My Woosh XF08C kit came restricted to 15.5 mph but I did try de-restricting in out of interest and it had a top assist speed of 19 mph on a full 36v battery. I think that is true for the Woosh 48V kits - they have higher windings for better hill climbing ability at legalish speeds rather than for (theoretical) top speeds)

If you are roughly the same weight as me or lighter , I think the XF08C is a really good option - I would recommend it with the bottom bracket torque sensor kit and controller - https://wooshbikes.co.uk/?tskit it's assist levels are power based rather than speed based (the yose kit controller levels are speed based)

Woosh seem to have an offer at them minute

• BBTS kit with XF07 front hub: Only £249
• BBTS kit with XF08C rear hub: Only £279

You just need a 36v battery

 

[Benjahmin]

!: Any battery, of the right voltage, will work with that kit. If the controller is dual voltage it can be 36 or 48v.
2: Woosh kit will be plug and play with lots of back up and are known for good customer service. It will be legal.
Regarding volyage.
A 20Ah 36v battery is 720 Watt Hours, a 48v 20Ah battery is 960Wh. Given that an average rider will consume around 10Wh/mile, the 48v battery will give you an extra 24 miles range - ish.
A 36v motor run at 48v will give approx. 33% more hill climbing torque and speed, with no detriment to the motor. Running a 36 at 48 you can use a lower maximum current controller and get the same power (P=IV).

But hey! This is your first conversion, you will probably want to do more once the bug bites. If you've got the spodula, go with the Woosh kit. They will advise all the way. If you send photo's of your bike they'll help getting the right kit (can provide cassettes etc). And, in the unlikely event that it doesn't work when you plug it all in, they will help sort it.

 

[Saracen]

"Ideally I'd like to stay legal "

I hope so, people who flout the law end up on the wrong side, if someone walked in front of you and were seriously hurt even if their fault good luck if the police were involved

 

[Nealh]

Saneagle, I wonder what you and vfr400 talk about in your rendezvous. Whatever it is, it'd certainly fly over my head. And D8veh I haven't come across yet. I'll look out for 'deleted member 4366' since I'm reading this board so much I'm bound to come across a few of his posts.

.

 

[saneagle]

When doing research, you have to be careful not to overthink everything. All these motors, batteries and controllers work, and they all make travelling by bicycle a lot of fun. The differences aren't massive. I would say these are the main decision points:

1. 48v for heavy riders or other need for higher power, otherwise 36v. If there's any doubt, go for 48v because there are no disadvantages.
2. The KT sinewave controller is a long way ahead of every other one I've seen it kits in terms of the quality and control of your ride, so always prioritise that.
3. Motors don't make a big difference. At legal speeds, they can all do the job. Buy a small one if you want a light weight solution and a big one if you're a heavy (say greater than 110kg), otherwise get a medium sized one - always a geared one, not direct drive.
4. Get a cassette motor for 8 speeds or more, otherwise a freewheel one.
5. If you're selecting a mix and match kit, don't get a 12 magnet pedal sensor. Always get a throttle. Not only are they useful for testing, but they are legal as long as it only works when pedalling, which can be achieved with a KT and some other controllers.
6. Don't worry too much about battery sources, but don't buy a used one or any that are too cheap that might have recycled cells in them. Generally, you get what you pay for.

Things to avoid:
1. Anything that needs a phone app to work.
2. Anything that's bespoke, like sensors, Bluetooth, etc.
3. Integrated controllers look neat, but the cable lengths are nearly always wrong, so you have untidy loops tied to the frame, and controller replacement becomes more complicated.
4. Waterproof sealed connectors also seem like a good idea, but it's virtually impossible to test anything when you get problems. The block type connectors are easy to test and can easily be protected by the controller container/box/bag, where you can also stuff over-length cable, as long as the container is big enough.

Endless-sphere is a good source of technical info on how stuff works, but generally not a good source of advice for UK people.

 

[throwawaychap]

Just to say I have used the Woosh XF08C 36V rear hub kit - it was brilliant (my niece, a medical student has "borrowed" it to get around campus) and will get me (100kg) up most hills with a bit of pedalling effort, although it's not quite as strong as the 48V Bafang G020 / H405 kit but say the Woosh kit will get me up 23% hills with some strong pedalling (which is much steeper than most hills you will encounter unless trying !) and the Bafang will get me up 28% hills The XF08C motor is a bit lighter (2.9kg) rather than the G020 (3.5kg) which I think causes less strain on spokes and dropouts.

The legal motor assist top speed is 15.5 mph in the UK. I think Woosh have curated their rear hub motors to be as powerful as possible at legalish speeds. My Woosh XF08C kit came restricted to 15.5 mph but I did try de-restricting in out of interest and it had a top assist speed of 19 mph on a full 36v battery. I think that is true for the Woosh 48V kits - they have higher windings for better hill climbing ability at legalish speeds rather than for (theoretical) top speeds)

If you are roughly the same weight as me or lighter , I think the XF08C is a really good option - I would recommend it with the bottom bracket torque sensor kit and controller - https://wooshbikes.co.uk/?tskit it's assist levels are power based rather than speed based (the yose kit controller levels are speed based)

Woosh seem to have an offer at them minute

• BBTS kit with XF07 front hub: Only £249
• BBTS kit with XF08C rear hub: Only £279

You just need a 36v battery

Thank you for your suggestion.

I didn't know Woosh sold kits without batteries. Torque sensors, from the little I know, come in really expensive bikes. I'll look into it, but I feel as though it'd be too advanced. I'd have to replace my BB and chainring altogether I think.

Coincidentally I have been looking at the XF08C on Ebay, I was worried about the dropout/ OLD. Some people say it's as wide as 144mm.

I found a post on here from Woosh himself stating it's 140mm.
I think my bike has a 135mm dropout, but can stretch a little, but it's an aluminium frame.

Does the XF08C take regular 160mm rotors?

From Woosh I'd like his 48v dgw22c; but it requires a 180mm rotor, and I don't know if adaptors would work for me. I'd need to take some pictures and have someone from Woosh with a trained eye evaluate.
Also Shengyi do not publish their motors RPM, ideally I'd want a 201RPM 26v to run at 48v.

Talking of Woosh, I was reading their hub kit installation manual, and something I was not even considering came up:

Left-side PAS / pedal assist sensor probably does not work with bottom brackets with plastic cups. My bike is brand new, and I'm almost positive it's got plastic cups there.

Another looming mystery to me is controller and battery cable compatibility.

For example, I like this kit:

Rear Front Drive Engine Kit 36V48V 1000W 500W 250W XF07 XF08 XF08C XF15F XF15R | eBay

MXUS Electric Bike Conversion Kit Wheel Hub Motor 36V 48V 1000W 500W 250W 26 28 700C Rear Front Drive Engine eBike Kit XF07 XF08 XF08C XF15F XF15R. XF07 Front Motor. XF08 Rear Freewheel Motor. XF08C Rear Cassette Motor.

www.ebay.co.uk

(700c is out of stock, I believe this is PSWPOWER's Ebay store, not sure if shipping is really truly only £10)

It comes with:
MXUS 36v 250w XF08C motor (Cassette) that I would run at 48V
KT 36v48v sine wave controller (only 15a, ideally I'd prefer 17a)
KT LCD5 display
etc
Non integrated controller as saneagle suggested.

But, I'm in doubt if it'd go with one of those Greenlance 48v batteries (that have bullet point connectors).

And I see there are KT controllers on Ebay - to be purchased separately - with the same connectors as those batteries.

So I've hit a wall of 3 impending issues right now. And my brain is fried from looking at this stuff.

On a cheerier note, I want to thank every one who took their time to respond to my rookie queries.

 

[throwawaychap]

!: Any battery, of the right voltage, will work with that kit. If the controller is dual voltage it can be 36 or 48v.
2: Woosh kit will be plug and play with lots of back up and are known for good customer service. It will be legal.
Regarding volyage.
A 20Ah 36v battery is 720 Watt Hours, a 48v 20Ah battery is 960Wh. Given that an average rider will consume around 10Wh/mile, the 48v battery will give you an extra 24 miles range - ish.
A 36v motor run at 48v will give approx. 33% more hill climbing torque and speed, with no detriment to the motor. Running a 36 at 48 you can use a lower maximum current controller and get the same power (P=IV).

But hey! This is your first conversion, you will probably want to do more once the bug bites. If you've got the spodula, go with the Woosh kit. They will advise all the way. If you send photo's of your bike they'll help getting the right kit (can provide cassettes etc). And, in the unlikely event that it doesn't work when you plug it all in, they will help sort it.

Yes. From what I read, 48v is the way to go since there are apparently no disadvantages to it. I'm a lanky chap, at 6'2 and 74kg/163lbs. But I have a lengthy incline on the return leg of my 12 mile commute. I don't have Strava and don't know where I could source the precise gradient of it.

With the 48v Woosh kit, as I said, I'm uncertain whether the 180mm rotor adapter would work for me; and whether the left-side PAS would work in my bottom bracket since it probably has plastic cups.

It's certainly a lot to take in, as someone looking to a first conversion.

"Ideally I'd like to stay legal "

I hope so, people who flout the law end up on the wrong side, if someone walked in front of you and were seriously hurt even if their fault good luck if the police were involved

That's my biggest fear and why I have not purchased Yose's 350w kit. A sticker is a good idea, but I'm not sure it'd be of much use to me in something like that.

Ironically from what I have learned so far, especially from @Cadence's insightful posts on Yose's motors, the 250w would be even better for me. And I think with a new controller/display from KT, I could run it at 48v also.

But they do not say 250w rear hub kits without the battery.

 

[Peter.Bridge]

Does the XF08C take regular 160mm rotors?

Yep. Also when I got mine Woosh fitted a new rear cassette on the wheel before they shipped it for a small extra charge, to make the install even easier. Fitting the bottom bracket torque sensor isn't difficult - the most difficult bit for me was getting the old bottom bracket off, but any local bike shop would help with that.

If you are considering the Woosh kit they will take a look at (photos of) your bike to make sure it is all suitable

I asked Yose about running their motor at 48v and also asked about the XF08C and got advised not to in both cases (don't know if that was an abundance of caution !)

 

[throwawaychap]

When doing research, you have to be careful not to overthink everything. All these motors, batteries and controllers work, and they all make travelling by bicycle a lot of fun. The differences aren't massive. I would say these are the main decision points:

1. 48v for heavy riders or other need for higher power, otherwise 36v. If there's any doubt, go for 48v because there are no disadvantages.
2. The KT sinewave controller is a long way ahead of every other one I've seen it kits in terms of the quality and control of your ride, so always prioritise that.
3. Motors don't make a big difference. At legal speeds, they can all do the job. Buy a small one if you want a light weight solution and a big one if you're a heavy (say greater than 110kg), otherwise get a medium sized one - always a geared one, not direct drive.
4. Get a cassette motor for 8 speeds or more, otherwise a freewheel one.
5. If you're selecting a mix and match kit, don't get a 12 magnet pedal sensor. Always get a throttle. Not only are they useful for testing, but they are legal as long as it only works when pedalling, which can be achieved with a KT and some other controllers.
6. Don't worry too much about battery sources, but don't buy a used one or any that are too cheap that might have recycled cells in them. Generally, you get what you pay for.

Things to avoid:
1. Anything that needs a phone app to work.
2. Anything that's bespoke, like sensors, Bluetooth, etc.
3. Integrated controllers look neat, but the cable lengths are nearly always wrong, so you have untidy loops tied to the frame, and controller replacement becomes more complicated.
4. Waterproof sealed connectors also seem like a good idea, but it's virtually impossible to test anything when you get problems. The block type connectors are easy to test and can easily be protected by the controller container/box/bag, where you can also stuff over-length cable, as long as the container is big enough.

Endless-sphere is a good source of technical info on how stuff works, but generally not a good source of advice for UK people.

I'm encountering information overload. Too many measurements and concepts at once.
For example the battery /controller cable or connector compatibility issue.

1- Yes, I am looking at 48v, particularly since I've seen a lot of people on Reddit wanting to upgrade from 36v to 48v; so I may as well bypass that if I can.

2 - KT controllers work with KT displays only from what I've pieced together; and they seem to make the best stuff.

3 - I'm tall and lanky, 74kg. But I have inclines in my route.
4 - My bike is definitely a cassette; 9-speed.
5 - I've tried mix and matching a kit together but it's too complicated for someone as inexperienced as me. And I'll make sure to quote you if I ever get questioned on the use of a throttle by plod haha.

6- My issue with batteries, is for example, Greenlance batteries are well reviewed. But they come with the red/black/+/- bullet connectors.
The xf08c kit I'm looking has that black two pin battery connector, how I make them compatible is a mystery to me still.

On things to avoid:
1 and 2; yep. Checked.
3 - I came to the same conclusion when I was looking at Yose kits a few weeks ago, but Woosh's 48v 250w kit, which could be an option for me, with the Shengyi motor has an integrated controller, so that would be a compromise.
As would be the non-KT branded controller and display pairing.

4 - Block connectors have always scared me lol. And the waterproof do no neat. I take your point on them though.

 

[saneagle]

Block connectors have always scared me lol. And the waterproof do no neat. I take your point on them though.

Block connectors work just as well. You'd be surprised at how many people we couldn't help because they had sealed connectors, so they couldn't test anything. It's not worth the hassle to have sealed ones. They're not even waterproof, and you're knackered when the pins corrode and drop off, especially on the LCD connector, so you end up needing a new LCD and cable. I've never had a corroded block connector.

When you have connectors that don't match, you cut them off and solder the wires. Connectors only have disadvantages, apart from some give you access to the wires for testing.

 

[Peter.Bridge]

3 - I'm tall and lanky, 74kg. But I have inclines in my route.

Can you tell us your route - I will look to see the maximum % incline - to be honest at 74kg you are likely to fly up any hills with any of the options you are considering

 

[throwawaychap]

Block connectors work just as well. You'd be surprised at how many people we couldn't help because they had sealed connectors, so they couldn't test anything. It's not worth the hassle to have sealed ones. They're not even waterproof, and you're knackered when the pins corrode and drop off, especially on the LCD connector, so you end up needing a new LCD and cable. I've never had a corroded block connector.

When you have connectors that don't match, you cut them off and solder the wires. Connectors only have disadvantages, apart from some give you access to the wires for testing.

I will happily disclose I spent a day or two without reading anything about e-bikes. I needed a breather for sure.

Being new to this I assumed block connectors were old technology, and not as good as the 'waterproof' plugs.

Having said that, would electrical tape not make these 'waterproof' connectors more waterproof? I was thinking of doing that.

Yose sell a "non waterproof" 250w rear kit (without the battery) with block type connectors and KT controller on Ebay. I think even the motor wheel comes with a block connector. And it's for freewheel only.


As it stands, I'm torn between compromising and going with Yose's 350w rear kit (without the battery).
Then getting a 17a KT 48v rated controller, and a KT-LCD5 display.
And a 48v battery off of Greenlance.

The reasoning is, since I'm getting a battery anyway, I may as well bypass the many people I have seen on Reddit either wanting to upgrade or upgrading from 36v to 48v systems.

Or Woosh's dgw22c 48v kit. The motor looks beefy, and it's surprisingly nice and convenient that it is rated at 250w.

The cons would be:
I'd have to stretch my budget a little (but that's on me not on Woosh since it's priced fairly).

Non KT branded controller and display, the controller is also integrated.

As per instructions, I'd have to change my rear rotor from 160mm to 180mm. I have found a Shimano adapter which I think would work, but I'm not sure if it'd give more clearance to fit the motor in. Since my calliper is mounted on the inside of the rear fork. I'll have to speak to them and see.

But the kit looks nice and neat though.

As for soldering when connectors do not match, I found Yose sell a battery cable that matches those special 'waterproof' connectors, with bullet plugs on the battery end. But it won't be necessary if I buy a KT controller with bullet connectors.

Minute 19:01 to see the cable I'm referring to.
This is a Polish gentleman assembling a 20" front hub kit with a bag type battery that required the same cable. His came with the kit.