Cyclone 500W, what battery in UK?

MrT

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Aug 6, 2018
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Really appreciate your help chaps.
Quick question regarding the controller... The link is to one that says 250w. The motor I have is 500w. I assume I need one rated accordingly or will that one be OK?

I did do a search for 500w controllers but there were so many I have no idea what would be appropriate.

If you could suggest a 500w controller I'll get it ordered. I can then spend the time waiting for it to arrive to educate myself more on all this.
 

wheeliepete

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As i said, the controller I linked to will get the bike running with a suitable throttle , but it does not have the power of the original and will struggle with the extra weight of a trike on hills.. I have not managed to find a 24v sensorless controller with the power to match existing, so my advise would be to step up to 36v. the motor will run a bit faster, but should not cause any problems. Read up about mid drive motors and the need to keep them spinning fast to avoid overheating. This kit will work well with your motor, if you want basic function choose the LED 890 panel (2nd from the right) or for better control the LCD3 (3rd from left) Worth the extra £20 in my opinion.

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/36V-48V-500W-Brushless-DC-Sine-Wave-Controller-LCD-or-LED-Throttle-Brake-Lever-PAS-Speed/1314442_32621102876.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.15.4dd731f23uMu90
 
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MrT

Finding my (electric) wheels
Aug 6, 2018
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Thanks again.
Found this one on eBay which is 24v and 350w.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/163157053715

Only £15 delivered and I could get it next week (ish).
Do you mind giving it a once over to check its suitable. It would be appreciated.

Then, once I get a feel for how much the wife is likely to actually use it and therefore worth spending more money of beefing it up, I can go for something bigger.

Cheers
 

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wheeliepete

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That's no good as it's a brushed motor controller (2 motor wires), you need a brushless, sensorless one (3 motor wires). As i said, they are not that common in 24v.
 

Nealh

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Sensor less = Square wave.

Sensored = Sine wave
Some Sinewave will work unsensored.
 

Nealh

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The ebay link is for both brushed and brushless, the brushless is only 13a a bit weedy though should work. We can show you how to do a shunt mod and increase amps by approx. 25% to about 16/17a.

They don't work without lcd or led display so you have to join/short two pairs of wires together on the display wiring supplied. If no pas sensor is fitted then led or lcd not needed as the assist levels are only of use for pas.
Then the motor will then work on throttle ony.
 
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wheeliepete

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Sorry guys, my internet connection is slow as at the mo, that's my excuse anyway:). Still not clear to me from that ad that it will run sensorless.
 
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MrT

Finding my (electric) wheels
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Yes, it was the brushless one I'd selected and checked that it has the 3 phase wires (see attached screen shots).

What kind of amps should I be looking for, ideally?
Also, I hadn't selected an LCD screen simply because I didn't think I'd need one.
If it's advisable then here's one for £15 more.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/323396809738

However, found this 24v 500w 30A brushell controller on Aliexpress. Under £30 delivered.
https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32610339800.html?pid=808_0000_0101&spm=a2g0n.search-amp.list.32610339800&

I'm also not clear on the whole sensorless thing. So if it's all going to get too complicated for a newbie I'll might just count my losses and walk away before I end up spending hundreds of hours and pounds on something that will hardly get used. :-/
 

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MrT

Finding my (electric) wheels
Aug 6, 2018
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But I'm not going to turn and run too easily and really appreciate and will most certainly accept your offer to help and advise how to 'hack' things to make it all work after my blunder.
LOL... Just remember to try and explain and direct as if talking to your grandmother / wife / child. I'll pick it up, I'm just starting from hazy memories of A level physics from over 25 years ago. :)
 

Nealh

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The Cyclone was about 24a, so 20 - 30a will be fine.

As mentioned earlier not all sensored controllers will run unsensored, you should contact vendors to ask.

The KT one earlier in the thread w e know works ok for both.
 

MrT

Finding my (electric) wheels
Aug 6, 2018
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OK, I've just ordered the KT one that Wheeliepete recommended first. Paid the extra to get it over in the next 7 - 15 days.

So... During my wait what can I do to prepare for surgery?
What tools will I need? I currently have..
- soldering iron, electric
- need some new solder, only have thick stuff and flux for CH copper pipes
- host of connectors and heat shrink tubing of various sizes
- volt meter
- cyclone battery connector has arrived, which has some hefty gauge cable to it. Making me wonder what other cabling I need to get
- do I need to remove the blown controller board or is it fine just sitting there?
- can I assume the existing ORO grip accelerator will still work?

Etc., etc.
 

Nealh

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Controller is blown, remove it.

Depending where the controller is sited you may need to extend the phase wires 14 (32a) or 12awg (41a) silicone wire.
Don't forget it is 36/48 dual voltage controller, so you will need another 12v battery to run in series to get 36v.

Throttle should work if it has 3 wires if it has more you will need a new one.

Don't do any work late at night or in a hurry take your time, when wiring double check polarity and wiring sequence to rule out more costly errors.
And if in doubt keep asking away.

My KT controller came with a plug in link for the lcd wiring which shorted the wires as needed.
 
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MrT

Finding my (electric) wheels
Aug 6, 2018
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Hi chaps.
Received the new external controller this morning.

So... Where do I start? Is there a step by step guide I can follow that you can point me in the direction of?

This is where the fun starts!
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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Firstly decide where the controller will be sited/contained, don't rush any job or try any short cuts.
Then go about sorting the PHASE wires, the pic/link in #19 shows motor orientation and wire/colour sequence follow that to start with. Solder measure/cut wires and allow 3 - 6" of wire length to play with don't forget to heat shrink/insulate any bare connector or bullets.

Do the same for power feed + & -, but DON'T connect power. Use an inline automotive fuse (25 or 30a) on the Black/ neg circuit and a on/off kill switch on the Red/ pos circuit better to have this extended to handle bar if a display panel is not used.
Wire throttle double checking correct wire sequence.
Although not being used I believe, pas is worth fitting as the 5 pas levels give a lot more power control with peddling. Throttle can over rule pas at any time if enacted to work with pedal first but will need LCD3 if not set up this way.
If not using handle bar display of any kind LCD wires need to be paired to each other as per the KT schematic, if the handy short link is supplied plug it in other wise the wiring needs shorting carefully as a wrong short or mistake will blow the controller when power is connected very last step.

Once you have done all of the above connections, connect battery/batteries correctly in series and gently try the throttle if no pas/lcd fitted (don't give it full welly until you are happy all sounds fine appears to work fine).
If the motor spins the wrong way swap outer phase wiring over.
 
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