Some advice needed please...

pedalfettal

Pedelecer
Jan 3, 2022
44
23
Wych Bearings

61902-2RS-Budget
61902-2RS (6902 2RS) Deep Grooved Ball Bearing / Thin Section Bike Bearing - Sealed Budget 15x28x7
Qty: 1

Price: £2.36
6902-LLB-Enduro
6902-LLB (6902-2RS) Enduro Bike Bearing Abec 3 15x28x7
Qty: 2

Price: £4.65

The two spendy blue ones are for the outside, the budget one for inside. (NB I used a wood screw to remove the oil seals, then shoved the budget one and then the blue one onto the non-drive spindle; from memory - the spider (drive-side) was a tight fit so I took the spider off, popped the blue bearing on and then used the five spider screws to force them together.

You don't really need them at the beginning of your adventure - but they are a good idea for hefty-riders and probably for general longevity.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: AJ_P

AJ_P

Pedelecer
Apr 19, 2023
46
10
Wych Bearings

61902-2RS-Budget
61902-2RS (6902 2RS) Deep Grooved Ball Bearing / Thin Section Bike Bearing - Sealed Budget 15x28x7
Qty: 1

Price: £2.36
6902-LLB-Enduro
6902-LLB (6902-2RS) Enduro Bike Bearing Abec 3 15x28x7
Qty: 2

Price: £4.65

The two spendy blue ones are for the outside, the budget one for inside. (NB I used a wood screw to remove the oil seals, then shoved the budget one and then the blue one onto the non-drive spindle; from memory - the spider (drive-side) was a tight fit so I took the spider off, popped the blue bearing on and then used the five spider screws to force them together.

You don't really need them at the beginning of your adventure - but they are a good idea for hefty-riders and probably for general longevity.
pedalfettal,

You're a gentleman. I will order these tonight and get them fitted as soon as I can. Having the shaft supported at each end has to be a good thing.

Are the original oil seals replaced by the two blue bearings or do the bearings seat deep enough to allow the oil seals to be refitted?

The battery for my wife's bike arrived and it most definitely will not fit within the frame triangle so I am left with two options. Either I make a plate for the rear rack and fit it to that thus losing carrying space and making the bike top heavy, or my preferred option where I fit it to the underside of the down tube where it will have about an inch of clearance from the front wheel at full suspension depression. That involves drilling the frame and the fitting of nutserts which means I will have to buy a nutsert tool kit. I've seen a few cheap ones on Ebay which are likely not great but it doesn't make sense to buy a dear one for a few holes. I'm somewhat concerned if nutserts will be strong enough though to hold a heavy battery upside down while being vibrated along rough forest tracks. I wouldn't want to see that damaged, that's for sure!

All the best,

AJ
 

pedalfettal

Pedelecer
Jan 3, 2022
44
23
Not convinced about drilling the frame...

These might be worth considering - two will probably support a suspended battery...

Bottle Cage Mounting

Oil seals - retain in spares box - the blue RS bearings have seals so should provide some protection. Mudguards/fenders are always a good idea to keep moisture and muck off.
 

Bogmonster666

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 6, 2022
263
139
or my preferred option where I fit it to the underside of the down tube where it will have about an inch of clearance from the front wheel at full suspension depression
I'm not convinced either. I think there are a couple of problems. 1st, the battery will be very exposed to knocks, water spray and easy to damage. 2nd, dangling battery off rivnuts underneath may not be very strong as battery weight is not resting on frame.

Just a thought, would you be better using the battery on your bike and finding a different solution for your wife's bike?

I didn't want to mount a battery to my frame (for different reasons) so opted for a bag battery. I am putting it in a waterproof Otter box and it can go in trunk bag or pannier. It's physically quite small but only 10ah (which is 60+ miles for me).

Edit: if you do mount underneath here is a thread https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/pre-conversion-help-research.43841/page-2
 
Last edited:

saneagle

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 10, 2010
4,183
2,077
Telford
Apologies if I missed it, but what voltage is your battery? If 48v rather than 36v, then for any given power output the possible overheat issues are less so with the 48v version.

The heat is caused by the current through the motor and as Power is the product of current and voltage (P = I x V) then you can see the 48v version draws less current per unit of power.
In principle, your idea is correct, but the explanation needs some adjustment. The heat goes up with the square of the current.

In this case P= I x I x R and the amount of heat is (1 - efficiency) x I x I x R

A crank motor is designed to run efficiently at your modal pedal speed. Some people take a 36v version and run it at 48v, which would increase its max RPM by 30%, but it would also make it less efficient at normal pedal speed so that it would draw more current and produce more heat at that pedal speed. That's why it's not a good idea to over-volt a crank motor except in special circumstances.

When the manufacturers produce a 48v version, it would normally have more turns in the coils to reduce its speed in proportion to the voltage so that you get the same crank speed and efficienciesas the 36v version.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bikes4two

AntonyC

Pedelecer
Apr 5, 2022
239
114
Surrey
A crank motor is designed to run efficiently at your modal pedal speed. Some people take a 36v version and run it at 48v, which would increase its max RPM by 30%, but it would also make it less efficient at normal pedal speed so that it would draw more current and produce more heat at that pedal speed. That's why it's not a good idea to over-volt a crank motor except in special circumstances.
It would be less efficient and draw more current at normal pedal speed if it were driven at the new voltage, but then being a more powerful 48V system it would accelerate. To do the same work (climb at the same steady speed) as with the 36V battery you'd ease off until the motor operates at the same current, efficiency and heating as before, with only the battery current being lower.

If the motor usually gets hotter in practice I think that would be down to being unable to ease off just the right amount using the torque sensor, PAS levels, throttle or whatever.
 

AJ_P

Pedelecer
Apr 19, 2023
46
10
Not convinced about drilling the frame...

These might be worth considering - two will probably support a suspended battery...

Bottle Cage Mounting

Oil seals - retain in spares box - the blue RS bearings have seals so should provide some protection. Mudguards/fenders are always a good idea to keep moisture and muck off.
Bearings are on their way.

Yes, trusting the substantial weight of the battery to reliably hang upside down on a thin aluminium frame via a handful of nutserts while riding on rough terrain doesn’t inspire much confidence to be honest. I know others have done it but I’m not going to follow suit.

My main reason for not wanting to use the rear rack is that it is quite exposed if the bike were to fall over which knowing my wife is going to happen a lot, but needs must so I will probably shape an aluminium mounting plate to suit it. I don’t know how strong the Hailong cases are but tipping over from that height with the resultant momentum onto a sharp stone or some such could probably penetrate the plastic and cause a problem. I suppose I could fit it in a box of some description that would house the battery and this would then give some additional protection for when the inevitable happens. Of course there needs to be room to access the battery lock, switch, port etc so that is another consideration of course.

Either way, none of it is insurmountable.

All the best,

AJ
 
  • Like
Reactions: pedalfettal

AJ_P

Pedelecer
Apr 19, 2023
46
10
I'm not convinced either. I think there are a couple of problems. 1st, the battery will be very exposed to knocks, water spray and easy to damage. 2nd, dangling battery off rivnuts underneath may not be very strong as battery weight is not resting on frame.

Just a thought, would you be better using the battery on your bike and finding a different solution for your wife's bike?

I didn't want to mount a battery to my frame (for different reasons) so opted for a bag battery. I am putting it in a waterproof Otter box and it can go in trunk bag or pannier. It's physically quite small but only 10ah (which is 60+ miles for me).

Edit: if you do mount underneath here is a thread https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/pre-conversion-help-research.43841/page-2
It looks like my best option for my wife’s bike is to go with the rear rack and attach the battery to that. I could then fit a front rack which she can use to carry the bag she usually has on the back. It mightn't be the ideal solution but in this case it is the best option.

I did look for another battery but anything smaller in physical size is made from Chinese cells and isn’t a whole lot cheaper. This battery contains Samsung 21700 cells and cost me about £220 including delivery. I could buy a plain wrapped battery without a Hailong case at £195.99 but once again, they are normally Chinese cells, the price isn’t much cheaper and a soft case for it adds another £16.99. That brings me almost up to the price of the quality battery I have at the minute.

With regards to fitting this battery to my own bike, I would be concerned that it wouldn’t be big enough in terms of capacity to deal with the weight of my outfit over the course of a day out in the forest. The truth is I honestly don’t know whether it would or not. All I know is that my bike etc etc weighs a lot and will require both the propulsion and power source to suit. A 14.5ah battery may be absolutely fine for my needs but I don't know yet which motor is going to suit either and having no experience of Ebikes really whatsoever, every single aspect is an unknown quantity to me. Still enjoying it though.

I have the motor loosely fitted and most of the ancillaries so once I get a little time, I'm hoping to finish it off and see what needs to be done then in terms of alterations, chain rings etc.

All the best,

AJ
 
Last edited:

Bogmonster666

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 6, 2022
263
139
Sounds like you have a plan. I'm waiting for an an Anderson extension cable, cable glands and fuse holder. I will then put my battery in box with some high density foam as per the picture. My cells are Samsung 21700s, certainly didn't want no name cells either. The box will then just be in a trunk bag or pannier. The bag battery feels very exposed at the moment but I know otter boxes are very tough indeed - this particular one has been regularly abused in a cave. Will need to be careful with the cable to stop it getting damaged but I think it will be ok.

Will open the box to connect the charger.
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: AJ_P

pedalfettal

Pedelecer
Jan 3, 2022
44
23
I forgot to mention that these things are quite substantial and also useful for trying out different positions:

Bottle Cage Mounting

Have you considered panniers? Live battery on one side, family first-aid kit, refreshments, pies, and pasties in the other.

A kickstand might be useful too to hold the whole lot up.
 
  • Like
Reactions: AJ_P

AJ_P

Pedelecer
Apr 19, 2023
46
10
Sounds like you have a plan. I'm waiting for an an Anderson extension cable, cable glands and fuse holder. I will then put my battery in box with some high density foam as per the picture. My cells are Samsung 21700s, certainly didn't want no name cells either. The box will then just be in a trunk bag or pannier. The bag battery feels very exposed at the moment but I know otter boxes are very tough indeed - this particular one has been regularly abused in a cave. Will need to be careful with the cable to stop it getting damaged but I think it will be ok.

Will open the box to connect the charger.
You are fitting your battery on the rear as well? Is that the box you are using? It certainly looks a lot stronger than the one I was evaluating for suitability!

I haven't even dry fitted the battery to check for what I may need in regard to cabling etc so no doubt I will be placing similar orders for items soon enough. It will all work out though in the end. Having it not look like crap when all is said and done will be a bonus! If I could weld aluminium I would fab up a nice little box on the back with opening side flaps for easy access or a rear opening door instead with a slide out battery tray on drawer runners. :D

All the best to you,

AJ
 

AJ_P

Pedelecer
Apr 19, 2023
46
10
I forgot to mention that these things are quite substantial and also useful for trying out different positions:

Bottle Cage Mounting

Have you considered panniers? Live battery on one side, family first-aid kit, refreshments, pies, and pasties in the other.

A kickstand might be useful too to hold the whole lot up.
Those look good. Would do no harm in the right situation for a bit of belt and braces peace of mind.

I'm trying to keep the bike as light and manageable for my wife as possible. She's not the most confident on it and bulk will definitely receive a negative reaction from her.

The kickstand that is currently on the bike is rubbish so I am going to have to look into something more substantial, ....and trustworthy. I like the ones with two feet like a motorbike stand but they may not fit with the motor. I'll have to look though and see.

All the best to you,

AJ
 

Bogmonster666

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 6, 2022
263
139
You are fitting your battery on the rear as well
The battery will just sit loose (in its box) in trunk bag or loose in pannier. The trunk bag is an old Topeak mtx one that is very secure. The box will stop it getting damaged through knocks. The box will survive a fall for sure and it is properly waterproof (until I put a cable gland in).

Otterbox stopped making most of their drybox range years ago but there are some others like s3 cases and pelicase. Lomo watersports also have a range.

Have not checked but this one might fit the woosh sized bag battery: https://www.inglesport.com/product/inglesport-t3500-waterproof-box/

I plan to just carry the battery with me if I need to leave the bike, which typically is at the pub or supermarket. The little 10ah battery isn't heavy or very big.

I did contemplate 3d printing a box that would slide into the mtx rack but life is too short. I already have a design I could tweak (it's a medium format film developing tank design I spent a long time on - believe me when I say that making a 3d printed box watertight isn't easy. Most 3d printed stuff isn't that strong although I have designed and printed caving lights. I kink of like the idea of a battery that fits the mtx rack rail but can't be arsed to put the effort in...and the trunk bag works, still has spare room for tools, tubes, waterproofs etc.

My only other ever conversion was many years ago with a Dawes touring bike with steel frame, front hub and large battery made out of what looked like catfood sachets. I found that not a good combination as there was a lot of weight high up on the rack coupled with a lot of frame flex - it was slightly disconcerting to ride and I would not let anybody else ride it, I certainly would not have let a rider who was not very confident ride it. However, I have had no issue with my aluminium MTB and a lighter battery and only notice the weight on the rack when wheeling the bike along, not when riding.
 
Last edited:

AJ_P

Pedelecer
Apr 19, 2023
46
10
The battery will just sit loose (in its box) in trunk bag or loose in pannier. The trunk bag is an old Topeak mtx one that is very secure. The box will stop it getting damaged through knocks. The box will survive a fall for sure and it is properly waterproof (until I put a cable gland in).

Otterbox stopped making most of their drybox range years ago but there are some others like s3 cases and pelicase. Lomo watersports also have a range.

Have not checked but this one might fit the woosh sized bag battery: https://www.inglesport.com/product/inglesport-t3500-waterproof-box/

I plan to just carry the battery with me if I need to leave the bike, which typically is at the pub or supermarket. The little 10ah battery isn't heavy or very big.
As long as whatever I finally choose to place the battery in is strong enough to take a knock, I won’t worry about it being particularly waterproof. Neither bike will be out on a wet day as we will only use them on off the beaten paths for exercise and leisure.

I did contemplate 3d printing a box that would slide into the mtx rack but life is too short. I already have a design I could tweak (it's a medium format film developing tank design I spent a long time on - believe me when I say that making a 3d printed box watertight isn't easy. Most 3d printed stuff isn't that strong although I have designed and printed caving lights. I kink of like the idea of a battery that fits the mtx rack rail but can't be arsed to put the effort in...and the trunk bag works, still has spare room for tools, tubes, waterproofs etc.
You’re right. There has to be a point when close enough is good enough. If it does the job and doesn’t involve wrecking your head then call that a success.

My only other ever conversion was many years ago with a Dawes touring bike with steel frame, front hub and large battery made out of what looked like catfood sachets. I found that not a good combination as there was a lot of weight high up on the rack coupled with a lot of frame flex - it was slightly disconcerting to ride and I would not let anybody else ride it, I certainly would not have let a rider who was not very confident ride it. However, I have had no issue with my aluminium MTB and a lighter battery and only notice the weight on the rack when wheeling the bike along, not when riding.
You’ve been experimenting since the early days. You know a thing or two by now!

Personally I am going to carry on with my wife’s bike according to the plan. I don’t like the battery up on the rear rack because it definitely isn’t light and certainly will be felt when on a stand or when walking it. I have no other choice though, but if it is a problem then I will simply keep an eye out for a more suitable used quality bike for her and swap everything over. There was a barely used Trek recently that wasn’t too far away for around £150 or so if I remember correctly. As you would expect, it didn’t sit around for too long before being snapped up. That’s an option should matters dictate such an approach. In the meantime I will lower the rack as far as I can and we will see how it goes. I still have to get a bit of aluminium plate to make up an attachment between battery and rack but hopefully will get my hands on something in the next few days.

The bearings have arrived too and I have to say that was a very quick service indeed from Wych Bearings.

All the best,

AJ
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: vidtek

AJ_P

Pedelecer
Apr 19, 2023
46
10
The battery will just sit loose (in its box) in trunk bag or loose in pannier. The trunk bag is an old Topeak mtx one that is very secure. The box will stop it getting damaged through knocks. The box will survive a fall for sure and it is properly waterproof (until I put a cable gland in).

Otterbox stopped making most of their drybox range years ago but there are some others like s3 cases and pelicase. Lomo watersports also have a range.

Have not checked but this one might fit the woosh sized bag battery: https://www.inglesport.com/product/inglesport-t3500-waterproof-box/

I plan to just carry the battery with me if I need to leave the bike, which typically is at the pub or supermarket. The little 10ah battery isn't heavy or very big.

I did contemplate 3d printing a box that would slide into the mtx rack but life is too short. I already have a design I could tweak (it's a medium format film developing tank design I spent a long time on - believe me when I say that making a 3d printed box watertight isn't easy. Most 3d printed stuff isn't that strong although I have designed and printed caving lights. I kink of like the idea of a battery that fits the mtx rack rail but can't be arsed to put the effort in...and the trunk bag works, still has spare room for tools, tubes, waterproofs etc.

My only other ever conversion was many years ago with a Dawes touring bike with steel frame, front hub and large battery made out of what looked like catfood sachets. I found that not a good combination as there was a lot of weight high up on the rack coupled with a lot of frame flex - it was slightly disconcerting to ride and I would not let anybody else ride it, I certainly would not have let a rider who was not very confident ride it. However, I have had no issue with my aluminium MTB and a lighter battery and only notice the weight on the rack when wheeling the bike along, not when riding.
Right, a little update....

I modified the rear pannier on my wife's bike by cutting out what was in the way and welding in an additional piece of steel to support the raised base I made for the battery. This lifts the battery about 25mm above the pannier frame thus allowing me to fit a pannier bag setup such as this for example underneath the battery, ....with a little bit of modification to the bag of course. It does however solve the problem I had and looks reasonably neat.

I took the bike to one of my usual forest trails yesterday and have to say I am very pleasantly surprised at the power. As far as my wife's bike is concerned, it needs no alterations to gearing as it is capable of ascending anything we tested it on. I removed the speed limit and tested the bike on the stand just to see what it could theoretically reach in each of the seven gears. First at maximum was 12.2 mph and seventh reached 24.4. I tested it myself despite the bike being too small for me on a bit of a hill that I would normally have to get off on and walk up. It's nothing too severe but tiring to me at least. I tried the bike out in each of the four modes and started off in third gear on level ground at the base of the hill while providing plenty of input myself. I was standing up much of the way and noticed that on sport and particularly turbo modes the front of the bike was light and the rear wheel was spinning at times. To my mind there's no shortage of power, and what surprised me most was that eco mode provided much more assistance than I was expecting. It in itself is very usable too.

I did not however as yet carry out the bearing mod. I noted how loose they were on the shaft and this concerned me regarding the ingress of dirt and grit onto the motor. Yesterday following a couple of hours worth of cycling on the rough, gravel forest paths, the motor acquired a decent covering of dust over it such that I suspect that in an environment such as this, the bearings while prolonging the life of the motor in one way might shorten it in another. I don't know for certain but it is something I am thinking about whether rightly or wrongly.

The battery level (Samsung 48v 14.4 AH) meanwhile on both the screen and the battery itself did not change one bit at all. A smaller one would have done very well had one been available at a good price but I've no regrets there really.

I believe the TSDZ2B will be sufficiently powerful for my own bike if I alter the gearing. I too have seven gears on the rear. I will have to determine if the gears can be changed, if seven of a different ratio would suffice or if I would need to change to a greater number of gears. The question there is what is actually on my bike at the minute, can I even change to a bigger cassette, freewheel hub etc and if it fits, can I actually select the gears due to chain line. I must add at this point that the seven on my wife's bike change with no issue and no excessive noise. The motor itself is very quiet indeed but it is of course brand new so that may change with use.

The subject of gearing is virgin territory to me and I know precious little about what would work and what doesn't. I'll have a go though and see once I get around to gathering up the bits and pieces now to convert mine too. However, I wanted to update anyone interested and especially all those who kindly chipped in with their time and knowledge. I now have one ebike conversion which has turned out very well indeed with an owner who is over the moon with it. Job done, ...or at least it will be once I have tidied up the cables to my satisfaction.

Thanks very much to all who helped.

AJ
 

vidtek

Esteemed Pedelecer
Mar 29, 2015
412
228
73
Bournemouth BH12
Right, a little update....

I modified the rear pannier on my wife's bike by cutting out what was in the way and welding in an additional piece of steel to support the raised base I made for the battery. This lifts the battery about 25mm above the pannier frame thus allowing me to fit a pannier bag setup such as this for example underneath the battery, ....with a little bit of modification to the bag of course. It does however solve the problem I had and looks reasonably neat.

I took the bike to one of my usual forest trails yesterday and have to say I am very pleasantly surprised at the power. As far as my wife's bike is concerned, it needs no alterations to gearing as it is capable of ascending anything we tested it on. I removed the speed limit and tested the bike on the stand just to see what it could theoretically reach in each of the seven gears. First at maximum was 12.2 mph and seventh reached 24.4. I tested it myself despite the bike being too small for me on a bit of a hill that I would normally have to get off on and walk up. It's nothing too severe but tiring to me at least. I tried the bike out in each of the four modes and started off in third gear on level ground at the base of the hill while providing plenty of input myself. I was standing up much of the way and noticed that on sport and particularly turbo modes the front of the bike was light and the rear wheel was spinning at times. To my mind there's no shortage of power, and what surprised me most was that eco mode provided much more assistance than I was expecting. It in itself is very usable too.

I did not however as yet carry out the bearing mod. I noted how loose they were on the shaft and this concerned me regarding the ingress of dirt and grit onto the motor. Yesterday following a couple of hours worth of cycling on the rough, gravel forest paths, the motor acquired a decent covering of dust over it such that I suspect that in an environment such as this, the bearings while prolonging the life of the motor in one way might shorten it in another. I don't know for certain but it is something I am thinking about whether rightly or wrongly.

The battery level (Samsung 48v 14.4 AH) meanwhile on both the screen and the battery itself did not change one bit at all. A smaller one would have done very well had one been available at a good price but I've no regrets there really.

I believe the TSDZ2B will be sufficiently powerful for my own bike if I alter the gearing. I too have seven gears on the rear. I will have to determine if the gears can be changed, if seven of a different ratio would suffice or if I would need to change to a greater number of gears. The question there is what is actually on my bike at the minute, can I even change to a bigger cassette, freewheel hub etc and if it fits, can I actually select the gears due to chain line. I must add at this point that the seven on my wife's bike change with no issue and no excessive noise. The motor itself is very quiet indeed but it is of course brand new so that may change with use.

The subject of gearing is virgin territory to me and I know precious little about what would work and what doesn't. I'll have a go though and see once I get around to gathering up the bits and pieces now to convert mine too. However, I wanted to update anyone interested and especially all those who kindly chipped in with their time and knowledge. I now have one ebike conversion which has turned out very well indeed with an owner who is over the moon with it. Job done, ...or at least it will be once I have tidied up the cables to my satisfaction.

Thanks very much to all who helped.

AJ
Come on AJ lets see some piccies!
 
  • Like
Reactions: pedalfettal

AJ_P

Pedelecer
Apr 19, 2023
46
10
Come on AJ lets see some piccies!
Here's some I took the other evening while out in the forest. Apologies for the lack of focus but I could not see the screen on my phone due to the sun. Of course it focused on the background rather than on the subject but there you go.

51810

51808
I used M5 x 20 button flange head stainless bolts to attach the battery mount to the plate. They need to be shortened a little.

51809

I was unable to source any aluminium from my local steel supplier so I bought some 2mm plate instead to make a bed for the battery to rest on and shaped it accordingly. I marked out where the battery would screw down, drilled and then welded nuts beneath so that a spanner wouldn’t be needed there. I also bought a little 25mm angle iron to make the two supports so that there would be an area clear under the battery for the pannier bags to fit through once I get them. It is not ideal in that the material that will sit underneath will have to be itself modified due to those two supports. I could not space them further apart though due to the rear section of the pannier rack being made from aluminium which meant I could not weld a support there. It is what it is and it will do just fine.

With hindsight I would now make it with 3mm steel plate and instead of using angle iron I would buy some 25mm box. I would cut one side of the box out to make a C shape. This would make it simpler and quicker to make. I actually cut out a little fillet of steel to make a support in the centre of each piece of angle iron to square them to the base and add a little strength. Box section would be quicker and it is already square, but you use what you’ve got.

The reason for 3mm steel plate for the base is that it is simply more rigid. The 2mm moved a bit with the heat of welding, not that the piece I got was anywhere near flat to begin with but I would have preferred 3mm anyway I feel. I did weld more than strictly necessary but I'm a belt and braces sort of man. I haven't welded in years and wanted to be confident it would stay put. In truth, a few good heavy tacks in the right places would more than suffice.

The rack was dropped as low as it would go knowing the battery was going to be raised a bit above that. In reality there is no particular need for a 25mm gap between the battery bed and rack and I may indeed shorten it if it bothers me because less would do just fine.

As for centre of gravity, you can feel the weight really only when off the bike and manhandling it. It likely isn’t what you want for serious mountain biking but it isn’t an issue for what we do and is probably totally fine for a commuter bike too.

It's a case of making do but I hope this helps someone else in a similar predicament.

All the best,

AJ
 

Cadence

Pedelecer
Feb 23, 2023
178
143
I did something similar to you but used a piece of painted 9mm thick marine plywood:-

51815

It's all secured with bolts and nuts tightened up with spring washers before fitting the rack to the bike.
In my case the battery holder includes an integrated contoller so the cables are run up the rear legs of the carrier and under the battery holder, held with spiral wrap. There is room with the battery fitted to clip on pannier bags:-
51816

Like you I was concerned about the high centre of gravity and it is certainly noticeable when pushing or get on, but not a problem when riding. I did this because I didn't fancy the existing rivnuts in the aluminuim frame holding a battery on in the long term. I also wanted to keep my water bottle cages. My other bike is steel framed and has brazed bottle mounts so that has a battery on the downtube.
 
  • Like
Reactions: AJ_P

AJ_P

Pedelecer
Apr 19, 2023
46
10
I did something similar to you but used a piece of painted 9mm thick marine plywood:-

View attachment 51815

It's all secured with bolts and nuts tightened up with spring washers before fitting the rack to the bike.
In my case the battery holder includes an integrated contoller so the cables are run up the rear legs of the carrier and under the battery holder, held with spiral wrap. There is room with the battery fitted to clip on pannier bags:-
View attachment 51816

Like you I was concerned about the high centre of gravity and it is certainly noticeable when pushing or get on, but not a problem when riding. I did this because I didn't fancy the existing rivnuts in the aluminuim frame holding a battery on in the long term. I also wanted to keep my water bottle cages. My other bike is steel framed and has brazed bottle mounts so that has a battery on the downtube.
Hello Cadence,

Simple, effective and much, much quicker to complete than mine. It looks spot on too and probably cheaper to make what with the price of electricity needed to run a welder! The only problem I had really was that the pannier is made of steel and aluminium thus limiting where I could weld to it. I had to cut some parts out as it is a B'Twin brand designed to accept their own clip in accessories. Those bits were in the way so after a bit of thought, I removed them. A basic steel rack would have been better for what I was doing but in fairness, this one is strong and very well made.

I simply couldn't fit the battery anywhere else. It was the only viable solution. The bike has a small aluminium frame and my faith in a couple of little rivnuts holding down a heavy and expensive battery while rattling along very rough paths is not high. So much so I am concerned at relying on them to restrain an even bigger battery on my own aluminium bike when the time comes to convert it too. Maybe a 3mm steel bed plate with a couple of clamps on the back to physically wrap around the down tube. We'll see...

I have a couple of pannier bags here that sit on the top of the rack only. I was hoping one of them would be large enough to accommodate the battery. I would have fitted some internal padding to protect it in case of the bike tipping over so in the meantime I am going to keep an eye out for something like that. With a pannier bag under the battery and draped down each side, it would look very discreet indeed I suppose.

As for cabling, I have ordered some mesh sleeving and am hoping that that will make a tidy job of it with some abrasion protection to boot. There's work yet to be done, but it is enjoyable and the fact that it worked so well on it's first time out has been very encouraging.

All the best to you,

AJ
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Cadence

guerney

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 7, 2021
10,224
3,000
I too went with the rear pannier wood bodge, except I used rot-proof palletwood treated with many exotic toxic chemicals and quite likely compressed while microwaved... I eventually found pannier bags which fitted over the top of the battery (not ideal, but the battery case held up), but one of two bicycle trailers: Homcom folding and Carry Freedom Small Y, are far better solutions when carrying a lot of stuff, than heavy rucksacks and pannier bags. As for CoG, my bike is a 20" wheeler, so it's close to the ground anyway. The only issue is the bike's balance because of the heavy 19.2Ah battery on the back, which causes problems when attempting to ascend very steep hills.