Where to buy TSDZ2 - and have i got the right items on my list.

[Electric Dream]

I found that I had to add four links to the chain to get the correct length, when using an 11-42 cassette with the standard TSDZ2 42 tooth chainring.

 

[not dave]

Road bike levers will be/ are a harder solution to fit cut outs to them & make them look nice when fitted, only one cut out is needed and rear lever is best utilised as it frees rh for signals.

Thanks Nealh - am I right in thanking that if i dont fit the throttle i dont need to fit the cutout?

 

[Nealh]

Thanks Nealh - am I right in thanking that if i dont fit the throttle i dont need to fit the cutout?

Yes.

The reason to fit a cut out is to stop the motor, when a throttle is fitted if it malfunctions then the motor will go full speed/current. Without a cut out if you try to stop just using brakes the controller will blow at some stage/ sooner then later.

 

[not dave]

There are five hole spider adapters for 104 & 130bcd chainrings, 32t/42t or 44t is as low/large as you can go for warranty though chain line will be compromised.

You risk stripping the Blue internal drive gear with the 50t set up but there is a brass replacement available which may allow a larger chainring.

Hi Nealh, i have spent some time investigating chainrings. I have seen one for sale on PSW Power but it states
the adapter can only have one chainring installed
How can i verify that the other adapters i have seen can have two chainrings? Is there something that can be seen on the pictures to show the difference?

Also, where can chainrings be purchased at a reasonable cost? I have searched ebay but apart from MTB rings i am struggling to find any at a reasonable cost..

 

[Nealh]

They say that because the chain line will be a bit out, which means cross chaining means some gears can's be used. Typicall small/small or a couple small and large/large or a couple of large.
The BBS can certainly except twin chain rings which I have done and I think maybe some one on here will have done so with the TSDZ, use the forum search area.

 

[not dave]

Hi, i have received my kit and have a couple of fitting questions: -
- The speed sensor lead to the motor has two connectors and i cant work out why. Photo one below
- Where is the best place to put the remote on a drop handlebar?
- What are the leads in photos 2&3?

Photo 1



Photo 2




Photo 3

 

[peter.c]

Cable 1 is the speed sensor- cable 2 is the battery -cable 3 is the lights 6v low power
Cable 3 plugs onto cable 1
hope this helps Woosh have the manual and brief instructions on their site

 

[not dave]

Cable 1 is the speed sensor- cable 2 is the battery -cable 3 is the lights 6v low power
Cable 3 plugs onto cable 1
hope this helps Woosh have the manual and brief instructions on their site

Thanks Peter , why are there two yellow connectors in photo 1?

Regarding photo 2, where does the right side of the lead connect to?

I also have an issue with my bottom bracket removal... My current bottom bracket is labelled "bc1.37x24t". Is this a different size to the bracket on the tsdz2 as i am struggling to get the tool to fit.

 

[tonyw]

Not sure, but I think you have an external bearing chainset? You will need the appropriate tool for it ( or butcher it with mole grips etc?)

 

[peter.c]

Wire2 is not needed if the battery pack is fitted with a cable
Cable 1 has 2 connectors one to the motor and one to the optional light cable a basic guide from Woosh https://wooshbikes.co.uk/?cdkit#tsdz2 inc links to manual
The bb will need the correct tool [ several types ] if you dont need to put back to standard adjustable spanner
in the past have had to use still- sons and a scaffold pole to remove post a pic

 

[not dave]

Thanks Pete and Tony,
I would like to keep the bottom bracket so i can restore the bike to non-electric if needed. Ive found a bike shop open tomorrow and will pop there to get the bracket removed.

One final question before i head to bed.

I have tried to attach the battery but notice that the bottle eyes are much to low on the tube to accommodate the battery. I could mount the battery upside-down, but the leads would then be exiting the wrong direction.
Any suggestions? (i really dont want to drill my frame!)

 

[tonyw]

I'd recommend drilling the frame and fitting a rivnut - maybe get the bike shop to do it. Batteries are quite heavy (and expensive) so it needs to be securely fixed. I would fix it the right way up, or it might be vulnerable to rain getting in. If you want to remove the battery, just put a screw into the unused rivnut.

 

[not dave]

I'd recommend drilling the frame and fitting a rivnut - maybe get the bike shop to do it. Batteries are quite heavy (and expensive) so it needs to be securely fixed. I would fix it the right way up, or it might be vulnerable to rain getting in. If you want to remove the battery, just put a screw into the unused rivnut.

Hi Tony,
looking at the battery bracket in the cold light of day, there is a metal section that is exposed by removing three screws. I have drilled through there and have mounted that to the bottle mounts on the bike.
Picture below showing the screws i have removed.

 

[not dave]

Next issue was getting the motor to fit through the bottom bracket. The cable guide and screw were fouling on the the motor, but i have removed the screw (plan to file the head down) and have cut away some of the plastic and that has allowed the motor to slide on. Now to finish off the motor mounting, cranks and pedals and i should be away...

 

[not dave]

Managed to get it all together in the end. The main issues (apart from the others mentioned above)
- The cable routing. I missed the fact that i should have routed the cable towards the front of the bike before attaching the brackets. I noticed after i put the pedals on and cannot get the crank off for the life of me!
- The battery is a little wobbly, will have to check the tightness of the screws, perhaps add a pair of rivets and also some foam or rubber to absorb the bumps.
The speed sensor is a little glitchy, i will review the positioning. While cycling it seemed fine, but at walking speed it would often show speeds of 60mph!

Some thoughts on my first ride on an electric bike. I went round the block to check everything was OK and okayed to go for a short journey to trial the bike a little more. Ended up climbing Rhiwbina hill - which for those not from Cardiff is a bl**dy steep hill to the likes of me!
I started on eco, and it felt like a gentle push in the back along the road. As i increased the assistance the push became stronger. When i came to the first hill the assistance is incredible. I could push up to 12-15mph on the steep hill, or sit back and take it easy and still climb at around 10mph.
All in all i am very happy!
Now i have to get a kit for my wife as i can see how beneficial kits like this are for everybody except superhuman cyclists.

 

[peter.c]

Well done the speed sensor will be the gap between it and the magnet on the spokes [needs to be bigger]
invest in a pedal crank extractor or a few cable ties to tidy the wire out of the way
A rivnut is a cheaper option than a new battery if it falls off

 

[not dave]

Well done the speed sensor will be the gap between it and the magnet on the spokes [needs to be bigger]
invest in a pedal crank extractor or a few cable ties to tidy the wire out of the way
A rivnut is a cheaper option than a new battery if it falls off

Thanks Peter.
I have got the battery connected to the bottle mount but will need to add some rubber or foam as it is not a very stable mount.
What fittings have people used to mount? There were no fittings in my box so ended up using the small nut and washer from the bottle cage that i removed.

 

[not dave]

Thanks Peter.
I have got the battery connected to the bottle mount but will need to add some rubber or foam as it is not a very stable mount.
What fittings have people used to mount? There were no fittings in my box so ended up using the small nut and washer from the bottle cage that i removed.

SO have added about 6 short lengths of gorilla tape to the top and bottom of the underside of the battery mount so it can take some of the vibration. Have also added a larger washer to the nuts and some more gorilla tape under the washers.
That seems much more stable now, but i think a couple more rivnuts would have it secured over the worst of bumps.

Next thought now is the custom firmware. For those that have installed it, is it much better?

 

[Wirdy]

The speed sensor is a little glitchy, i will review the positioning. While cycling it seemed fine, but at walking speed it would often show speeds of 60mph!

I had the same issue, played with the magnet distance for ages & could get a speed reading fine by waving a spare magnet over the sensor. At this point I realised the sensor is very sensitive to orientation. It needs to have the wire exiting north or south. Apparently there should be an orientation arrow on the sensor but I couldn't see one! Works great now.

 

[Wirdy]

I didn’t use The brake levers as the Kona has hydraulic brakes, this hasn’t caused any issues in normal use but I understand the concerns......

I've had a runaway throttle on one of my bikes with a 500w hub kit (faulty hall sensor in thumb throttle) & it's pretty scary. My tsdz2 doesn't have throttle, but if I had, at least one brake lever kill switch is a no-brainier for me.