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Your battery does not connect directly to the motor. Both the battery and motor will connect to a controller like this one. http://www.bmsbattery.com/controller/546-s06-250w-imitation-torque-square-wave-controller.html

How do you change the hi/lo modes on the bangood lights?

Brake issues - Ensure pads don't catch and the calipers are correctly aligned so the pads have full flat surface area grip on the disc. I too had trouble having to adjust my brakes (Tektro cable calipers) too often and still had poor braking. I changed to Avid BB7 calipers which have a huge...

I would definitely go with the idea of trying some different ones on though before you buy as you will find the comfort very different with the differing fits.

It also looks like your pads are at the edge of the disc which may also explain them being pushed out of place,and could do with the caliper moving in a bit toward the disc centre for more surface area of flat gripping.

Nice. It does look a tiny motor, any idea of it's weight before assembly?

That thought crossed my mind this morning in the pitch black lanes, my battery-to-light connector disconnected. Had to instantly slam on and fumble about feeling for the wires.

eHomer gave me the idea of housing them together in a tuppaware sandwich box with foam for protection. Then I would use a rear parcel shelf, however I don't need them anywhere near as large capacity so mine will be much lighter than the 16aH ones.

I had problems with that charger overcharging, it also get quite hot with the power supply and charger together. My preference is the BC168 as recommended by d8veh but for a second cheap one I like the turnigy accucel-6 which also needs external power supply and keeps the psu heat seperate.

Those multistar batteries were not there when you built your battery pack, they a quite new in. They are cheaper because they are only 10C rated which is still ideal for us. I have been tempted to try them too for my next battery.

Thanks for the replies. The pp3 battery has given me an idea of maybe using 3x18650 laptop battery cells in series. I have ordered a small length to mess with and try the dc-dc idea too.

I'm thinking to fitting some of these red 12v led strips down along the back of the bike frame. Is it possible to get a 12v supply direct out of my controller for it? Has anyone fitted them and found they are as easy as soldering wire to tabs on the end...

Could I ask in this thread does anyone know a good 26" front mudguard about 2" wide which does not flap about hitting under the frame while going over bumps?

Thanks all for the soldering tips and help. I've spent all this evening having another go at soldering the solid type copper wire and achieved this :- What I did different this time was ruffed up the wire surface a bit with emery paper first and only tinned just over an inch length(instead of...

Sportsdirect do a nice thinnish light muddyfox cycling jacket in bright orange which I think are generous fits.

I tried a 40w flat blade soldering iron then a pointed 50w variable one on full, then a gas flame torch then I gave up. I have been looking for some isopropyl alcohol today in town and could not find any,I don't know where to get it. Any ideas?

Thanks Mike, I never got past No1 as the wire I tried was the solid bendy ringmain stuff. I will try again with some stranded copper out of an extension cable next time.

Couldn't get the solder to stick to that piece of single copper wire even using flux also tried a flame torch, so plan-B will be to use normal type wire and try to solder along that. Is really showed me how difficult it really is to make such a good job like Khumarahn made.

Here's a good video too, where's the motor in this bike?

Not many carry a chain splitter/re-linking tool? A mate of mine's chain has snapped twice but lucky he carry's a chain tool and tells me to carry one too.