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Not sure. I asked for a refund after 40 days of waiting for my order and it was issued within minutes.

I'd follow the advice given by Fordulke to fully charge the battery and try again. This should rule out a low voltage cutout (LVC).

Are you smoking anything while enjoying the whisky?

Nah. Keep the DD motor, bung some ferrofluid inside and quadruple the power.

Have you been able to inspect the electrical cables that run from the handlebars to the controller for any obvious signs of damage? The point at which the handlebars fold is an area that is particularly prone to damage or failure.

That's certainly a good point regarding the usage pattern of car batteries being different to that of ebike batteries, but the rest doesn't match my experience. I no longer store my bike outside, but when I did I regularly found that the battery gave considerably less capacity in the depths of...

Self discharge is not the effect of a cold cell, but it is a good indicator of a problematic cell, regardless of temperature. 0.02V is certainly nothing to worry about though. When a cell is subjected to low temperatures, it has the effect of raising the internal resistance (IR) of the cell...

Unlikely. Where did you get 110W rating from?

So around 9.5W power consumption at full power. I'm really interested to see the power consumption of the 12 LED light that you have on order. My pair of 6 LED lights consume around 36W in total, so I am expecting your 12 LED unit to be about the same.

Actually that was the FIFTH time. OP, these questions are not being asked just for the sake of it. Apologies if it appears that we are being a bit snappy with you, but we require answers to certain questions in order to aid troubleshooting.

Please can you read my posts properly before replying. In nearly every reply there are questions that remain unanswered. Again, do you own a multimeter? Are you able to inspect the cables running from the handlebars for damage at the point where the handlebars fold down? It sounds like there...

Don't worry about making a video. Answering ALL of the questions asked will be of more use to us. Did the fault you describe when turning the handlebars occur at the same time as the repair, or did it exist previously? Do you own a multimeter?

Did the fault you describe when turning the handlebars occur at the same time as the repair, or did it exist previously? Do you own a multimeter? What electronic parts do you have mounted on your handlebars, e.g. throttle, display, brakes, etc?

So there's more information that you haven't told us about..... What electronic parts do you have mounted on your handlebars, eg, throttle, display, brakes etc? These brass blocks, are they crimped or soldered? Also, have you disconnected or altered anything else during the repair you carried...

You should have explained the full story from the start. Without all the facts we cannot possibly know the situation that has since been revealed. Forget everything explained previously. The fault is likely due to a bad connection in one of the phase wires. What kind of connectors have you used...

Did the fault occur after any particular incident? Does the problem still occur if you only turn the throttle a tiny bit? If it doesn't, you could have an issue with either your battery or charger. If it does, there are lots of possibilities. For starters, try pulling apart the white plug...

Out of interest d8, if you could only have one of your bike builds, which would it be and why?

Self charging?......Oh dear. Methinks there's going to be a lot of disappointed people if this is taken at face value.

What he *probably* means is that there's a bigger profit margin on Bosch bikes.

It's a lovely frame. Please consider taking the advice given to convert to a crank drive instead of hub motor. It'll make the bike handle more like it was intended to and won't risk ruining the swingarm.