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The stator (stationary part of the motor attached to the axle) exerts an opposing force to the direction of the wheel rotation. Only the motor casing, which also contains the magnets moves with the wheel.

Rain certainly makes puncture repair more problematic, but I've never had a puncture where I couldn't find shelter from the rain and make the repair successfully, even if it's just using a jacket as cover. Still though, I think these Gaadi tubes make a great addition to a repair kit and when I...

Only if travelling uphill. On flat ground, power output lessens as you approach top speed. Anyway, the motor would likely overheat and fail before the battery gives up if drawing a constant 12kW. In reality though this wouldn't happen since the power would be automatically dialled-down once the...

There's a number of factors that limit top speed that include: Voltage Motor winding Gearing/wheel size As long as there is enough power on tap to overcome aero resistance for a given speed, power won't be the limiting factor. 8kW for 60mph sounds about right though.

Battery bags are popular for a number of reasons. 1) They're cheap. 2) They're easily adaptable to a wide range of frame shapes and sizes. 3) They provide a certain amount of protection to their contents due to their padded construction. 4) They're a lot easier to create a rattle-free build...

I think the motor is a QS 260. Not sure about the controller, but since choices are limited at these power levels it's likely to be either a Sabvoton, SevCon or Kelly controller.

Of course it can. Power comes from a combination of volts and amps. 12kW = 82V * 145A This isn't likely to go much faster than a Bomber, but it will accelerate lots quicker.

No need to cut the old tube. It can be secured to the frame without needing to butcher or remove it and then repair it once you are home.

In my experience, "learning to pass a driving test" and "learning to drive" are two different things. The former can be achieved in a few weeks and the latter can take an entire lifetime.

Completely agree when it comes to navigation in the car - Google Maps is king. On a bike though it has a habit of leading you onto some dangerously fast routes along busy A-roads. IMO, nothing beats Cyclestreets for the quality of routing when on a bicycle, even if the interface still leaves a...

I'm not going to try and tell you why it's a bad idea to ride while heavily intoxicated, but I promise that you will eventually reach a point in your life where you look back and wonder what the f**k you were playing at. Life is short - both yours and everybody else's. Don't make it even shorter.

That is nuts! I haven't had one yet, but I'm deffinately gonna be checking the SN when I do.

You'll be able to draw more than 3.4A unless your cells are rated for 1C. EDIT: On second thoughts, those cells have a max discharge of 2C, so 1C is probably a good conservative limit to ensure a long service life. In a 2P config, they'll be happy to deliver 6.8A.

Good analogy. It honestly is worth trying to find a way to source a feed directly from main battery voltage.

Eh? What are looking for, smoke and magic? A genie in a bottle? There is 8.4W (1.4A @ 6V) available to power the front light and 0.6W (0.1A @ 6V) for the rear. It wont be enough to power your cree lamp. The feed is intended for low powered lamps at rip-off prices.

Power output is shown in the image in SW's post above.

I'm sorry to say it, but you're not quite as entertaining as you once were. Next!

German law states that lights must operate from a dynamo, with operation from a battery being optional. It's a ridiculous law IMO.

Dynos make no sense on an electric bike, where hooking a light up to the main battery would be more efficient.

Wrong! Roads are for the Roman army to march on. What happens to the bikes when the cycle path comes to an end?