Search results

Since not having children is the single most effective measure, that we as individuals can take to help our planet, this actually seems like a good idea. I have a 10 month old daughter. Having now had her, there's not a monetary value you could suggest that would make me want otherwise...

Kits based around the Grinfineon controller from ebikes.ca will give you fully proportional regenerative braking. www.ebikes.ca

All the details of Justin's testing methodology are openly published in the thread already linked to. It is an extremely long thread, so we can all be excused for not having read it, or not being able to recall specific parts. What I can say, is that I have no element of doubt that Justin's...

Flecc, I received a reply from Justin on your question regarding efficiency: "No, it makes zero nadda no difference whatsoever in the electromechanical properties of the motor. We're talking having a fraction of a gram of nanopartical magnetite (which is pretty weakly magnetic in the first...

Thanks. That makes perfect sense and actually surprises me. Even the Mirrycle mount sticks out by around 15mm. Maybe I'll consider motorcycle mirrors if I ever build a high power street bike.

Do motorcycle mirrors COMPLETELY fold back on themselves like bicycle mirrors are designed to? Without this ability I wouldn't be able to get my bike through my front door and down my narrow hallway.

I can't remember the exact details (they're all contained within the thread over at ES), but I think it's something to do with the RPM's of a geared motor being too high, surface area being much smaller and the thermal pathway being much worse than that of a DD hub.

It's not that they don't need it, just that they don't benefit from it like DD hubs do. I certainly wouldn't want any excess heat transferred to a plastic gear set anyway. EDIT: Actually, scrap that last bit. FF wouldn't be attracted to plastic gears.

Here you go. NL14 at £1.92 a pop: http://www.ondrives.com/nl14 Let us know how much p&p is.

This is what confuses me. The technical diagram here says it is M14 (14mm): http://www.crystalyte.com/Crystalyte%20HS_HT35%20rear%20motor%20drawing.pdf Yet, my digital calipers tell me that it is 12mm. So I ordered the M12 Nord-Locks. I can't give you a definitive answer concerning your motor...

The mass of the stator can only be relied on to conduct enough heat away from the windings for very short periods of time. Prolonged heating can only be dissipated by air convection from the motor casing to the ambient air as the bike moves. It is the transfer from windings/stator to the casing...

That's an angle that I can't remember having been discussed in the hubmotor FF cooling thread over at ES. I shall put the question to Justin and see what he has observed.

This is his biggest concern and why I'm waiting until the summertime before I try it. I'm pretty sure that he has now set up a DD hubmotor running continuously on a jig to clock up as many miles as quickly as possible. Time will reveal all.

I'm not too sure. I found 12mm on ebay from the UK which fit my Crystalyte H3540 perfectly.

My level of knowledge on the subject is purely theoretical and is limited to what I have read on Justin's research. Come summer, I will take the plunge for sure and try ferrofluid on my own motor, but until then I'm happy to leave it to others. The current community testing is largely to...

Heat is specifically required to be transferred to the motor casing, where it can then be removed into the passing air. Ferrofluid has already been proven to be many magnitudes more effective than regular oil bath cooling on a volume by volume basis and all without the downsides of oil leakage...

I'm especially gripped by his current research into using ferrofluid for motor cooling. It's amazing how a few ml's of anything can aid cooling to the degree it does.

Justin is single-handedly doing more than anyone else on the entire planet to advance electric bike technology. As time progresses we will all benefit from his research, as manufacturers products are likely to be heavily influenced by the open publication of his testing data.

I've always felt that a 'nuclear deterrent' is a busted flush. If you press the button first, it's not a deterrent. If you press the button second, it's not worked as a deterrent.

I think you're confusing the issue somewhat. The courier's contract is with the seller. Your contract is with the seller. Ultimately, it is the seller's responsibility to get the goods to you undamaged. As long as you open a dispute with the seller within the allotted time, you stand a good...