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Yup, depends entirely on what you want. For myself I run two 14Ah batteries in parallel. Gives me less voltage sag around west Wales hills so extending battery life.

I remember well my first move from Sturmey Archer 3 speed to 5 speed, my father too questioned the need having been a fixed wheel commuter in his earlier years. 14 miles each way for an 8 hour day labouring in a brick yard and probably all on a cheese sandwich. The days of you did what you...

Yes, that's it. Don't really care what it's called, it's intrusive, annoying, unwanted and I find I can live my life without all this stuff. Who knew?:cool:

If the mouse goes into the right hand corner an annoying window pops up that is full of asenine click bait. Most of the time it clears when the mouse is moved away. However, occaisionaly, it will not clear and laptop has to be re-booted. Didn't ask for it, don't want it. They are super annoying.

What I seem too see is a greater readyness to sag with a slower recovery. Not sure about range loss though.

The coms will be between the battery and controller, and the display and controller. The motor is fed 3 phases plus sensor wires, no coms here. So, by replacing display, controller and battery you end up with a repairable generic system rather than a 'put the whole thing in the bin' proprietry one.

The fact that you haven't got any answers probably means that nobody knows. In theory, any 36v battery would do the job, however there are a few caveats to that. If there is a comunication protocol between battery and controller (ie canbus), then only the proprietory battery will work. The hub...

Many moons ago, as a teenage motorcyclist, I learned that manhole covers were best avoided - wet or dry - and especially on corners. Ever since I have kept my eyes open and learned where the covers on regular routes are, and take an approprite line. No tyre is going to reliably grip a wet...

Unfortunately, the article seems to be a Nissan/Zapmap marketing excercise with no actual info on how the hell they achieved this impressive feat. Maybe I've missed something. What's the charging point density in northern Canada like, where towns will be further apart than the range of the...

KT controllers (the most recommended on the forum) come with up/down buttons built into the display, or as a seperate unit on a short cable connected to the display. Throttle is a seperate unit, either twist grip or thumb throttle. Most chance of getting it working if all ancillaries are...

To help your understanding: The controller sits at the centre of the system. The motor, handlebar display, battery, pas sensor and brake cutout switches are all connected to it. Controller and display need to be bought as a pair to ensure they 'talk' to each other. When buying a controller...

And with greater weight comes greater cost, less range and restricted handleability in terms of getting up steps or into the shed etc. So it becomes self limiting as shown with the 350w speed pedelecs in Germany. Do they? Where's that then? How does that work? What's the numbers? Is it...

Thanks Lenny. I'll have to spend time trying to absorb all this stuff. I often finf that there's jargon and nomenclature that leaves me clueless.

Climbing a hill in 9th gear is never a good idea. The extra strain on you and your bike is very damaging. Your knees and ankles will suffer from the lower cadence, better to change down (as you would when driving a car) so your cadence is higher. Also, as I think your bike is a mid drive, you...

The motor will not care what voltage you give it. 48v is pretty much the legal limit in the UK. However 60A will probably be way too much with a danger of melting the windings. Not only that but your battery is unlikely to be able to supply such a high current. To do so the main battery (and...

Happy christmas all. Thanks for all the hard work.

Isn't the only stipulation on maximum speed and maximum continuous rated power of the motor (nothing to do with controller power) the same as eapc. It's the full acting throttle that makes it an LPM. I'm sure Flecc will put me right.

Does anyone know how to defeat those bloody annoying po ups in the bottom right corner of windows 10? Some times my mouse passes over the area and the click bait pop up appears interupting what I'm actually doing. Occaisionally it just won't close and I have to reboot the laptop. Only...

Well no, not really. I think the outcome is, just make sure you have the 'right' label on your kit motor, then you're less likey to get it taken away from you. 'Cause that's all with the caveat that you aren't hooning around at 30mph whilst going uphill and not peddalling.

So where are we? The thread title is, 'Same motor, different power rating'. Seems that motors are given a power rating that will not cause them to overheat at optimal rpm. However there must be headroom in there to allow the motor to run at lower rpm and therefore operate less efficiently so...