Search results

The same.

I'll check today - after I've mended my first ever marathon plus puncture ! That's what I've done and, so far, it seems to be a bit lacking in the steep hill department. Otherwise it's fine. There's a lot going on at the bottom of a V shaped valley, but going up through the pas levels is...

I've changed C14 to 3. I think it's made an improvement, hard to tell. Here's what I saw: Trundling along on 2, I came to a steep bit. Pressed the throttle. Wattage increased rapidly to 380-400 ( which is level 4) then slowly up to 680ish. So tried an experiment. From level 1 I tried the...

Good to know, I will persevere. Although I've been a utility and leisure cyclist since I first rode a bike (roundabout 5 or 6 I think), I have never been a strong cyclist. Always suffered from tired legs and would regularly get left behind when out causing mischief with my mates. So there's a...

Just found my original thread when I bought the kit. After much back and forth I ended up with a 48v 328rpm, so running it at 36v should be giving me 260 rpm. However speed is not the issue, it's hill climbing torque. I'm beggining to think that I may have stuffed myself here. If I go to...

That I can't remember, there was so much back and forth when I bought it. I originally bought it for a 26" wheeled recumbent. I do know it's 48v currently being run at 36v max 20A, Here's the number from it if it means anything: AKM23032901002 BBA4816B When changing from, say, level 2 up to...

I've moved the throttle to the right which means the up/down buttons are now closer to the left grip. I can reach both easier now. 25 miler today incorporating some of the more severe climbs. System is very smooth and quiet. Going up and down the power levels a lot, it's the nature of the...

Just been on a 15 mile ride, think I'm starting to the feel of it. The advice of using the throttle on short ramps/climbs is certainly useful. I'm going to have to re-arrange the handle bars to make it more accesable. Coming back from the local town on what passes for a main drag around here...

Just been to the next village to get my artisan baked sourdough - I know ! :rolleyes::cool: Any way system set to 20A seems a lot better. Giving me around 320w on 4 and 650ish on 5. Not sure how saggy this is going to make the batteries but they're on charge now ready for a longer run this...

I went as recommended on the Grin site, their recommendation is to keep to one cross. In retrospect maybe they're more used to 26 inch wheels and larger motors. Thanks Peter, i am starting to think that 48v is going to have to be the solution. I'll see after todays ride out.

That's interesting Sturmey, I hope you're right. It's puzzling though because, if the windings are on the outside, wouldn't this need slip rings, or somesuch, and therefore brushes? I see what you're saying, I'll try that when I get out today. It may mean I have to reconfigure the handlebars...

Yeh, checked that and it is as you say. I think the rather underwhelming performance is a mixture of wrong wheel size, 17A maximum current setting and running it at 36v, not to mention being so used (11 years) to the full power kick from the very torquey Ezee. I'll take it out again tomorrow...

Just found that wheel size was set to 26" instead of 700c, that's part of why it all felt a bit tame. C5 now set to 9 which should give me 20A max. I think the Ezee was 20A (not sure), at least I can run in 3 or 4 with 5 for the hills - we'll see.

Been out on a shakedown run. Firstly the steering is much lighter and the motor much quieter. Previous system was speed control and it's going to take some getting use to the lack of 'kick' at start up. I actually quite like it. It's absence means I've got to watch it pulling out of junctions...

The rack battery has too much life left in it and I have no other use for it. Plan is to use it up then get a 48v downtube battery.

Haven't had chance to try it yet. All the weight is now on the rear end so not sure how it's going to feel.

I forgot the brake switch. I used a hydraulic switch and used an old cycle computer magnet cable tied to the brake pipe. Switch is held on with doulbe sided tape, may need glue.

Finally got all the bits I needed and the time . So, in the spirit of 'show us the pictures or it didn't happen', here's the build. Motor labelled and ready to go: Build went smoothly despite some brain fog: Had to build a front wheel too with a new hub. I've really enjoyed the wheel...

Just been to my daughters place in Trowbridge, Wiltshire. Saw quite a few obviously illegal fat bikes, and others ( but no scooters !), being ridden round town. Not only with no pedalling but through pedestrian areas even the wrong way up one way streets. None seemed to be delivery riders...

Well, according to the report, he was riding a, 'Self charging electric bike'. So that's it then, he's used the infinite range to bugger off to warmer climes. Let's hope he's OK.