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When all connected up , the display works yes ?

Why obsessed with having a solid red led , that is the result one doesn't need or want.

That has different connectors to the one you show us so isn't the same controller. A link to your controller to the actual web site and not a JPG picture of a controller.

Provide a link to the Bafang controller for us to look at all the wiring sequencing.

Which means it is wrong. One needs to understand that one shouldn't see or have a solid red led on the PAS showing , if one does then it means the wire sequence of Signal and 5V are incorrect or one is connecte dup to the wrong controller output connector. Just because the PAS is prewired , it...

Does the led flicker in this config when the pedals are rotated ?

If one has the correct 5v to 5v the led won't be solid , it flickers on /off via the signal wire . Blue must be signal so connect it to white signal . One can test the connection by poking the meter probes up the back of the connector, if you have Signal and 5v wires connected correctly you...

Connect White to Blue & Red to Or. A solid led indicates one has the 5V wired to the signal.

Changing the LVC of the controller/display is a fail safe as the battery may already be a bit higher but that all depends on the BMS specs.

From 0 .111v to 3v the voltage rise will be quite rapid, it is between 3v - 4v one needs to keep an eye on it.

Tbh since covid this a cop out a lot of couriers tend to use to save time and enable more delieveries.

The first battery is either unbalanced and has a weak cell group or the cells are knackered . At 41.1v one would expect 25 - 30mile son low power . I suspect the latter with only a few hundred metres capable. What power level are you using for it to only manage 400m ?

0.111v is scrap /dead as I suspected . If it were at 2.5v then it might have been salvageable. If you have the means ( arduino spot welder) and 4 x cells one could try replacing them, though one could use likely any 2500mah cell of 5 - 10a rating if one can get some The 2500mah cells look like...

No it won't . The Bafang Higo PAS connectors wire sequence differs to the KT Julet connector , fit wise they are compatible wiring wise they are not. One can't mix and match Bafang Higo with any KT or system using Julet.

One will get away with 21v lvc but typically as mentioned 21.7 v is 3.1v per cell group. The 20v lvc setting one is talking of is C12 /4, one can alter the LVC higher or lower . C12/7 will change the LVC to 21.5v.

Is it worth the extra expense to sell ?

That rim is only fit for scrap , it is split along side the nipple pull thru.

Tbh sell it as spares and repairs and spend money saved on another bike or kit. Personally if it was mine with my knowledge I would go the KT route and use the existing battery by replacing the BMS with a generic one. The intigrated battery /controller just makes diy a nightmare and pretty much...

As per the thread title . if the BMS has failed it needs replacing. Has one checked for a discharge fuse failure ? Does one see any voltage at the output/discharge ? Typically with the battery switch on a BMS will show residual voltage of approx. 0.5v .

39.8v and not going far before cutting out suggests possibly a very unbalanced cell group that is very low to LVC. The 34.5v battery suggests at least one very low cell group below LVC or even a dead cell group. Opening up and checking group voltages is the only way one will know for sure.