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My main commute/errand / load shopping bike is a swb Cotic Roadrat, I utilise rear QR panniers and front touring rack with a pair of cheap QR panniers. Any panniers needs to be fairly lowly slung . For huge shops I use a large trailer on both bikes.

The ideal bike likely would be 650b tyred Kona UTE or Kona Minute. Electric bosh ones are expensive but my one is a converted std model with TSDZ2 and is rather very good. they stopped producing the std version in 2020 /21 but sometimes come up for sale. They are now fairly rare as owners often...

Flip the magnet disc face as the magnets have a North or South Pole. All cadence PAS are generic three wires so 99.9% should work with any generic controller. Alternately as Ghost has mentioned if one rotates the sensor head 180 degrees one should get the same effect but it often leaves the...

I think the G370 CST is a rare beast certianly looks very nice.

One can't post batteries so unless one lives very nearby , it wouldn't be feasible to check for a possible cause/ fault. Do you have a simple cheap digital meter for testing ? If so doe one get a volatge reading on the battery discharge outlet ?

Water damage to the 5v rail via the throttle causing intimittent shorting ? PAS can also be affected. Like you Mr.H , I still think that the BB unit is more torque sensor then a rotational cadence PAS.

Wisper certified bike certainly as the test is for test and go operation . Grandfther rights then one is needing to prove the bike age.

V12L I wouldn't even consider buy 8 or D12L. If keeping the BB then opt for 8 PAS (Two piece) fitted to RHS side behind chain wheel or D12L (two piece) fitte LHS. V12L often fills with road gunk , it needs 1 or 2mm clearance inside of crank arm other wise it fouls and doesn't rotate ver well.

The fact it is a yellow three pin wp connector does indeed say it is a simple rotation sensor . The fact the bike guy can't get it to work with generic PAS is likely down to simple wiring , the wiring sequence most likely doesn't match your bikes yellow connector. Is there an embossed name...

It isn't a std PAS sensor , typically those type of BB sensors with the cable exiting centrally tend to be torque sensors . They sense rider pedal pressure unlike a normal rotational on/ off that a Hall sensor and magnet produce.

One must buy a KT lcd to use with the KT controller any other brand will not work . The G370 is a lightweight front hub motor only 1.6kg and very good, I'm 80.5 - 0 81 kg and also tow a 100kg trailer at times with it , my terrain is flatish with small inclines here and there but nothing...

Exactly D8veh. !!!!!!!

You need to get the broken part from the repair guy and /or take a pic , it is the only way we cen see waht you have. Typically PAS only has three wires so any PAS should work , but we need more help from you if you want our help with suggestions.

15.5mph/25kmh is the EU and UK legal assist cut off, some bikes one can go a bit more but not all bike displays allow adjustment as the speed is preset in the programming. P.s Don't let the forum plonker see this post otherwise he will want you banned.

Which bike brand ? Which PAS mode does it occur in ?

It needs ability to follow our simple advice to open and check if a battery is scrap or recoverable, quite a few of us have the technical knowhow of how to recover /check batteries as well as building them. Other wise it is a return to Wisper for a diagnosis and whether it is good or not.

One can't remove the sensor/ PAS and still expect power assist when pedalling, that is why EAPC's have pedal assist.

If hasn't been charged for a year , it is either dead or in sleep mode.

Tbh any bike gaffa taped like that shouts bodge job.

Fortunately not many of us live in Wiltshire, here in the free county of W.Sx plod don't really give a toss about anything.