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One can't simply add a throttle to a tsdz2, they are sold as two models throttle enabled and no enabled. It is down to the controller fitted.

They wouldn't be much better under a Starma Britain.

Is /was the chnaged sensor an identical one from the maufacturer /supplier ? The important factor is the wiring and the colour sequence of the wires connected up.

Yanking a bike cables about is never a good idea.

It sounds very typical of any controller when riding slowly up hill, the heat inside is generated by the mosfets and once they reach their max critcal temp they short out until cooled again. As noticed the controller would have been like hot spud and one if holding it would suffer 2nd degree...

Are you 100% sure that the display entry cable didn't get a good yank at the same time ? Likely hood is it did and unseen to the eye one of the pcb thin power wires has been pulled off or broken inside .

It is an inframe type integrated model so one may have to pay thru the nose for a battery, it may be easier to buy a whole new bike and opt for one that doesn't use such a battery. Winstanley bikes were a seller of the bike as was the The Range. Also this place Lectro EM-600 Gents Alloy Grey...

For anyone with these health issues then any type mid drive motor is certainly nowhere the ideal type to use. A hub bike with five assist levels , cadence sensing and a throttle is the needed drive , one can then partly ghost pedal or use the throttle for power. A KT type of current control...

Once one see's cut outs due to battery issues then replacing is the only real option. Repairing just afew cells isnt't cost effective or very practical.

Show us all of the BMS connections and the multi cable sense wire connections.

The lipo bricks were yeterday's news. One needs a dedicated lipo charger and alarms set to min 3.6/3.65v as they soon fall off the cliff edge . The 9p solution is highly flawed and next to useless, 37.8v max charge only gives one a marginal usage before the alarms will sound. With voltage sag...

As private individuals no chance of return, these companies know this and it is a get out clause of getting out of claims. With batteries one deals with China as ones peril even with the likes of Bafang.

Riding very slowly up hill can cause controller Mosfet overheat/thermal cut , if one can access the controller the temperature will instantly be known as the heat is a kin to a very hot potato that one can't handle and one will for sure would cause second degree burns . Thermal cut outs cause...

A cadence sensor is all about the control unit used. If speed control then they are very abrupt and basic often giving a terrible ride experience , ride a bike with current control then the ride is far far better . It is fair to say that 90% or more of hub cadence sensor bikes sold use a...

It is a generic two wire/pin battery. Shame you didn't post a pic of the bike first to save us wasting time with suggestions.

Likely needs a bearing puller ?

It highly likely any conversion will be over 20kg unless a lightweight Brompton is used.

The system is a dual torque drive with some cadence sensing, the three default powers levels are 100w, 210w & 250w. But one assumes using the app these can be tweeked ? A torque sensing drive requires rider input pressure on the pedals and not just cadence roatation of the Crusa. The...

Looking at it , it is a generic simple two pin out connection only having the two outers wired for polarity. A similar battery is a silver fish type so look on ebay or Yose power for battery dimesions. Silver fish type are supplied with new charger and a new fitting cradle so one can fit it...

For 20 miles flat terrain then a hub front 250 motor will be more then adequate for road use , these guys who tell you not to use one one have never tried them for extended periods of time or usage so they have little clue. Ideally though one needs to use nos suspension and steel front forks...