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You need one of those capsules Bond used in live and let die on the fatso black dude, he went bang not pop.

If he disconnects it he will find out . Yes they could be for Halls . We don't know if he has both throttle and PAS, one of the 3 p could be for a basic led. Again he will simply find out by process of illimination.

2 pin R+ 5v /B= gnd. 3 pin B = gnd, R =5v , W = signal. 3 pin Y =gnd, R= 5v, G= Signal. 3 pin R = 5v, B=signal, Blk= gnd. Test with a meter between 5v & gnd to confirm 5v is correct. Guaranteed you will have to swap wire sequence about to match the existing bike wiring as they won't be a...

Just seen this and my take. Battery as mentioned should be at least 41.5v - 42 (40v is way to low ) when fully charged so do this and tell us the voltage , anything less will mean the battery or charger has a fault so also check the charger output. As to the original wiring. 2 x 2p R /B are...

If you buy mid drive then yes, out if warranty they could be expensive trellis's as they are closed systems however a generic hub bike is a different thing and far more reliable over the long term.

I don't see the point of buying a new push bike then adding a kit as one loses any warranty issue with the bike. For £1500 one might as well buy an EAPC and have the warranty lock stock and barrel.

Check your controller as some newer firmware versions can't be flashed. On the controller speed sensor connnector make sure that you see 5v between Gnd and swim, new firmware controllers show 0v between Gnd & swim so are not programmable. My wiring is 11cm + the st link and is absolutely...

If it is a DD hub then usually P1 is 46, one doesn't use motor magnet count as the setting.

For phase testing it is the mosfets in the controllers that will be affected and not the motor phase wiring, Test each of the three colours with the ve- wire and then the v+ wire Ve- one should see 7 -15k and all three need to be quite close , Ve+ one may get differing results but should see...

Rack batteries tend to be the wrong shape for triangle fitting and if one did then one would need to fabricate a way to secure it .

If there is no patent then it is fair game to anyone to bring to the market.

One generally will see about 9k ohms on the phase v- side and on the v+ an ascending value or simply 1 , as long as one sees each set of three results are very similar to each other then they should be ok. Typically 7K - 14K is a good range to see.

Yes can't grumble. I used a bit of logic as we don't have many Kirstin's and I remember you use to sign off as such as well, plus the Ti name in the alias added up.

It was what one would expect one was a 5 pin connector and the other an 8 pin connector , what were you expecting Kirstin ? Using logic one assumes the White is a speed signal, Brown battery voltage and Orange a sw wire ? Though these are redundant so nt really sure that the display will work...

If you have internal speed sensor then the external wire connection is redundant, using both causes conflict. The external is of use should the internal one fail then one has to cut disconnect the white speed wire for it.

Is this Kirstin S from Shoreham or another Kirstin ?

It is a charging port without the grommet cover , pic isn't very clear when enlarged but looks like there may be fused metal on the central pin.

Just a word of warning , LBS that don't supply the EAPC often won't work on them. Also LBS that are non electric also likely will not work on them as well, any that do work on them and then a fault develops will likely wash their hands of any consequences so best stick to a brand that offers...

KT do some nice displays and there are plenty to choose from, she will notice the difference in power and rider control with the five power levels and the different power in each level. She will be able to attain the same max speed in each power level and have better control of how much power...

You have to be careful with Lamp posts they are like zombie phone users , always in the way and don't know you are there.