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Change the control system over to a KT Kuenteng controller and KT display , it uses current control for power and has five useful power levels 4 giving 13% - 50% of current available and one that gives 100% of current available. It will work on an mtb as it does on any bike.

Mbitz you can convert the bike to any control system , it just means replacing the existing Torque system so controller, display and torque sensor to new ones . The motor shoul dbe pretty standard show us a pic of the motor cable connector and how many pin sit has 8 or 9 hopefully. KT...

KT don't make an S866 display !!! Theie displays are simply KT LCD1, LCD2, LCD3 etc, etc right through to LCD 12. For controller dependson how many pins you motor cable has , if it has 8 or 9 pins as most modern hubs have today then you need a sinewave controller.

One will 100% certainly need to buy a KT display for a KT controller. Though another display may work/turn on any use will be very limited.

No need to to use extra heatshrink over the motor cable, simply make sure a drip loop is part of the cable connection/set up and use the axle cover/cap. As already mentioned one can apply some grease via a syringe to the cable axle entry but often the fit is snug, the rotor holes is a good...

Your phase test results aren't all what I would expect.

The Hall test is satisfactory , no issues with them from your results. Try the Phase resistance test again on the 20 or 200 ohm setting you need to see about 7 - 15 ohms registered on the ve- and anything barring 0 on the ve+ tests.

Reported some sort of AI bot or spammer.

The polls are useless because if you asked the same question to EAPC users whether cars are a good thing you might get a similar answer.

Seems prices have risen on 26" stuff nowadays.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191682444691?hash=item2ca129fd93:g:2tEAAOSwu4BV6bPL https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394522725185?hash=item5bdb630b41:g:M2QAAOSwb~FkGIBj

For a lacing guide I find these two utubes verrrry goooood. Aussie India.

A 19/21 mm rim is what you need and obviously a 36h one. I use Sapim strongs 14g on all my wheel builds and agree with others ,Ryansforspokes are very efficient. https://ebikes.ca/tools/spoke-calc.html https://www.wheelpro.co.uk/spokecalc/

Sounds like power isn't getting to the display, battery may have sleep mode or not inserted correctly. The below is taken from the manusl. 5.9. Error indications and possible solutions The system cannot be switched on(no indication on the sMMI display)• Has the battery been correctly inserted...

Depends on the terrain features if little or no steep inclines are involved then a lightweight front hub is a great option.

Topbikekit have a few for variety. Bought my 1.6kg Bafang G370 from them, a delightful small motor for 100mm forks.

Once upon a time one use to be able to log on to the elifebike .com sister website where they listed hubs and other gear for sale but this doesn't happen now. One is simply redirected to the PSWPower main page. Elifebike have a presence on ebay but don't sell as many differing hubs as they used to.

Try the Black to phase wire test using the 20 ohm or 200 ohm scale , 0.5 ohm resistance is very low. One expects usually to see 7 -15 ohms , in my tests 9 -10 ohms has always been typical.

UPS will send a tax invoice to you before the items are released from UK customs. So expect 20% vat plus a handling fee . Don't pay the invoice and the goods won't be delivered.

If you have a shorted controller mosfet or failed motor Halls then the system won't work. One expects this is why the bike is non working and was sold. If you find the fault is the controller then you are best to replace it and the display with a new matching pair to guarantee thier 100%...