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woosh Big Bear LS: http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/electric-bike-reviews/group-review-woosh-big-bear-ls/

I think there is a demand for this kind of bikes, not so much to go fast but to pull heavy loads like the front loader cargo bikes, I reckon about 100-200 bikes a year. Most of the posts in favour of illegal bikes on this forum are from people who wouldn't be interested in yours because they...

proper use for a DD motor. http://www.elmoto.com/de/products/hr1-pedelec/ HR2: http://www.elmoto.com/en/en-bikes/en-hr2-360-grad/

The problem for suppliers is that disabled riders tend to be also heavy riders and not proficient cyclists. The woosh crank driven Krieger/Santana CD are about the most powerful hill climbers I know that still have the full throttle until the end of the week. Even these 20A CD bikes can't move...

I don't understand this obsession either.That kills the reason why we cycle. Legal bikes are fast enough for 99.9% of my rides.

The suspension fork is not very good, brakes not very good, the rest of the bike is OK. Easy and cheap option for hill climbing kit is the crank drive GSM with 11.6AH battery http://wooshbikes.co.uk/?cdkit#gsmkit

By and large, manufacturers tend to give the maximum torque at the motor wheel - for crank drive, at their smallest gain ratio, as a basis for comparison. As such, it does truthfully reflect how much help you'll get climbing a steep hill. High torque when given in this manner is usually obtained...

your bike is already derestricted. You won't get more out of it.

Your commute involves 205m elevation, the woosh Big Bear is a much stronger hill climber. http://wooshbikes.co.uk/?bigbear

you could ask andy @Woosh to lend you a 9-pin break out cable for your motor to test the motor. You can use a sensorless controller to test the motor but there are issues. Firstly, you can't plug a 9-pin male motor cable into a 3-pin female motor cable (controller side), the pins don't match...

that means gearbox is probably OK. Fault may be in Hall sensors. You need to test the halls with a multitester: https://www.ebikes.ca/documents/HallSensorTestingFinal.pdf if they are OK. try the motor with a working controller to identify the fault.

what's wrong with it? can you test the gearbox (turn wheel forward then backward) first?

woosh Big Bear LS http://wooshbikes.co.uk/?bigbear-ls

I use a 2.5mm drill bit to start the hole then 6.5mm drill bit (for M5 rivnuts) and clean by hand with a small round file.

that was the starting point that muddled my thinking because I think there is very little difference in quality between £1,000 self build bike and £2,000 shop bought bike.

I bought those: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KNURLED-STEEL-THREADED-STEEL-RIVNUTS-NUTSERTS-BLINDNUT-RIVET-NUTS-INSERT-/191625310115 and this tool: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4mm-8mm-THREADED-RIVET-NUT-INSERT-SETTING-TOOL-RIVNUT-PROFESSIONAL-/391342478289 They work well.

I take your point about tried and tested is always best. However, reputations come and go too, over time. I should have also twigged on earlier that you were not too concerned with legal or illegal bikes, I barked up the wrong tree, sorry. Regarding Giant, I don't know if they have had lean...

key at the 'push' position, do just that, push the key in (the lock cylinder is spring loaded) for about 5mm then turn the key anti-clockwise to unlock.

the LCD works on 5V. It measures the battery voltage with an internal divider - it's difficult to make the voltage drop just for the LCD, that's the bad news. You should ask the supplier for a replacement next time you buy something from them.

John, my battery is 15AH, not 4 or 5Ah on some of the ultra light bikes like the cytronex. My 16kg Giant D5 can give me 60-70 mile range. I think your options are limited to legal bikes because you don't want to attract the wrath of other riders. But you won't find a lightweight Kalhoff, nor a...