Search results

I don't think that motor manufacturers are not interested by the subject of his research and indeed the result but in an environment where there are electronic PCBs, PU varnish, PVC glue, introducing an extra 5ml of fluid could cause unpredictable corrosion. The oil may corrode the components on...

In his post, Justin compared his (special mix) 'Statorade' against air cooling in a stock motor. Statorade wins, that's clear but he should also include result for stock motor with 6mL of Castrol oil and stock motor with 6mL of Ferrotec fluid for example.

I don't use any high power motors that need oil cooling, hence my ignorance on the subject. However, I am fairly skeptical of any claim that depends on tuning to get to the claimed result. Isn't it correct that ferrofluid needs to be tuned to the actual condition to work their best?

ferrofluid to help with cooling? I don't think it's a good idea. It'll stick to the magnet alright, but the heat is generated by the core of the copper coils, not in the magnets, and to evacuate heat, you need to move the fluid, not encourage it to stick to one place. I understand that the...

it could be anything. As it happens so rarely, I would ignore it.

single-handed is the right word. Our d8veh is a bit like him. I particularly like his ideas on making lightweight direct drive motors. It seems that he has done a lot more research and advance on this type of motors than Rakesh ever has on his Falco motors.

I would send the battery to Woosh for testing. There are other companies who can recell your battery too.

thank you for the link. Just finished watching the entire video. I like his passion.

post all your P and C settings, something may show up. I am a bit concerned by the dimmed display. It's not a good sign.

the 500W Brose motor on that bike is about as powerful as a 500W BBS02.

must be a typo.

the pedelec sensor cable is fragile. Check carefully for signs of damage along the cable and especially at the point where the cable goes into the sensor. If there is a LED on the pedelec sensor, then it should flash when you rotate the cranks. Check the gap between magnet disc and the sensor...

Yes, on relatively flat roads, that's correct.

Eddie, I think 15kg is the magic number. You can carry your bike over puddles etc. I was looking at the picture of your e-race P and thought that carrying a battery in the backpack for a rear-hub E-MTB makes sense. To the drawing board for a good looking 15kg e-MTB. Don't think it can be done...

@John_S with hindsight, I think the Big Bear is more suitable for your situation. Ask Hatti, she'll help you sort that out.

I was thinking that he could do with something a little faster than his old Sirocco which is built with Bafang SWXH motor, a Lishui 14A controller and a 10AH rear rack battery. He also wants foremost reliability. The Karoo can give him that. if the OP needs high speed, high power assist (30A)...

thanks YD. Still thinking about making a custom cable between the controller and the LCD and hide it inside the downtube. Suggestions welcome. Wireless maybe?

Done. @Yamdude: front wheel also replaced to match rear wheel with 13 gauge spokes and tyre.

the controller on my D5 is integrated in the battery casing, model Lishui HL1260. I'll check with the battery suppliers, one of them may want to make a custom battery for me in 10S3P in an HL case with NCR3400mAH cells.

The Karoo is lighter than your old Sirocco and nice to pedal without power: http://wooshbikes.co.uk/?karoo @AQ: I reckon that most people who like to ride fast simply derestrict their bike via LCD maximum speed setting.