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that's good and bad. Good: you've now have a working bike. Bad: it seems to confirm that either the 5V regulator or the LCD is wrong. Can you check the 5V line to see if the voltage moves withing the first 3 seconds after switching on?

I have 15AH on my Giant D5, how much more do you need? As for build quality, the Giant frame is very good, all the other rolling parts are easily upgradable.

The one on the battery is more accurate. The one on the LCD shows instant voltage, when the motor draws more current, the voltage will sag. The LCD's indication is good when the motor does not work hard.

Mike, change the Allen bolt for a normal bolt: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bicycle-Bike-Cycle-Crank-Arm-Bolts-NEW-/151921218356 They grip much better and you can tighten more with a socket driver. The left crank bolt always gets loosened much more easily than the chain side due to torsion in the...

use the side of your soldering iron tip - much hotter than the hair dryer.

there should be plenty enough in a fully charged battery to do 40 miles. The BPM on the Big Bear has winding code 13, 230RPM maximum speed. Usually, motors run at their best efficiency around 70% - 80% of maximum RPM, about 170-200 RPM, on 26" wheels, about 13 to 15mph. That speed gives a good...

in your video, the LCD detects 36V correctly in the first 2-3 seconds then dimmed out, ie it seems to identify your battery as 48V. That could be the result of the 5V regulator inside the controller gone wrong after a few seconds, but more likely that the LCD thinks your voltage is much higher...

Can you do the following test? discharge the battery to 36V. Then switch on the bike. If the bike works OK then the LCD3's automatic 24/36/48 voltage detection mechanism does not function correctly.

fordulike means Frank Furby, who owns Xipi http://www.xipi.co.uk/ Welcome to the forum Franck.

I must say I was surprised at Justin's published results on measured thermal resistance from core to ambient in the link that John provided. The reported improvement on thermal resistance is about 30% - 50% compared to the naked motor. We are talking about the beneficial effect of 5% x 6ml...

You can build yourself a lightweight bike like mine (16kgs), Giant Defy 5 (£300, 10.2kgs) + Woosh Karoo parts (about £500, 5.8kgs) or get a woosh Karoo for about the same money. http://wooshbikes.co.uk/?karoo

I agree with your analysis, the 3-year old £500 Elios may not fetch much second hand even fully working. If you have to buy a new battery for it, you may even end up out of pocket. I did suggest you send back your battery to Woosh for checking. If it only needs rebalancing, then it will be...

The BPM and Ezee motors have very high starting torque, Bafang quote 52NM for their G07 (front BPM). the Panasonic motor has a double stage reduction, it should ace it at low revs and it runs at 48V. So I would put in order (strongest first): 48V Panasonic, 36V Ezee, 36V BPM, 36V Dapu M155.

dapu quote 35NM/45NM for their M155 series, the only way you are going to get more torque is to run their 36V motors at 48V. I reckon their M155 motors are about as powerful as the Bafang SWX02. Similar diameter, weight and power rating (250W to 500W). I can climb more or less anything with a...

centrifugal forces should push the fluid against the magnet casing.

I think it's reasonable to expect that if the new motor fails within two years since it's last replaced, it should be fixed for free.

good business decision. Ezee motors don't need FF.

do you mean your two bikes have killed 3 motors after less than 3,000 miles? if that's true, then it's not good.

it seems to me from watching the video that Justin's business vision is on DD motors. Justin is indeed a very clever guy but is that wise?

the air gap in a high power loudspeaker is about 1mm which favours liquid for cooling but in the case of a large e-bike motor, the core is a reasonably good heat conductor in itself. Improvement in core construction and core material should be sufficient without the need for liquid cooling. But...