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Yep, Norton reports the site as clear again... strange :confused:

I did read that AVG's heuristic virus detection can be a little bit over zealous in detecting these threats, and there should be nothing to worry about. BUT PLEASE DON'T QUOTE ME :eek:

Are you two using AVG antivirus per chance?

Think this is the link to their website: Advanced Lithium Electrochemistry

Press the button near the LED's, and it will give you a pretty crude indication of the charge left in the battery. In my experience, if only the red one lights, then it's time to head home the shortest route possible.

d8veh, your PM inbox needs clearing out as it won't let me send a message :(

PM reply sent ;)

You're just in luck. I can whip the battery pack out of mine and you can have the casing. Was planning on using the battery to power some winter lights anyway. PM me with yer details, and I'll wang it in the post to you ;)

Take a look at these two links: http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/electric-bicycles/10009-stock-cyclamatic-vs-beastamatic.html http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/electric-bicycles/9991-original-beastamatic-back-its-angrier.html

Great link, thanks :)

Is there a website I can go to where it will show the gradient of a hill in a specific location? I haven't got a fancy smancy smart phone that will map hills in real time, so it must be something I can access on a home PC. Anyway of doing this on Google Earth?

I'm no expert, and I'm sure the gurus will be along to cast their verdict, but it looks like it's a case of demand outweighing supply. If the battery is fairly old and/or has been electrically abused, then the capacity and performance has probably dropped to an unexceptable level. In certain...

If the 3.1kg weight is correct, for the technology, manufacturer prestige and battery capacity, I think you're getting a bargain there ;)

He may well be able to supply one with pedelec function, but I didn't require this, so didn't ask. I'm more than happy with the controller's factory settings, and think I'll be pushing my luck trying to squeeze any more performance out of the bike. If they can be programmed via PC sotware...

Yep aaannndddyyy's correct. Neither of these components need to be connected for the controller to operate properly.

I've now managed to test both versions of the bike, and here are some pros and cons of both: Cyclamatic 24v 9Ah battery, 14A maximum rated sensored controller Pros Great, cheap starter electric bike, that is surprisingly robust and good looking Good range on battery Comes with...

Maybe the first generation of sensorless controllers were less refined, and the guy was just relaying facts of old.

cwah, here's a tip if you're going to go down the route of soldering the wires together without connectors. Stagger the soldered joints by cutting the positive wire short on one pair of wires, and on the other pair cut the negative short. The soldered joints won't be next to each other like...

I contacted a respected EBIKE KIT vendor (mmmm clue maybe) with reference to the controllers that they supply with their kits. They replied that they use only hall sensored controllers, as sensorless controllers require a speed of 3mph+ before they operate. The E-crazyman sensorless controller...

Would the stalled current be the maximum rated output of the controller?