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shouldn't be better to have a rear 26" motor wheel and keep the front 700C wheel? The bike would look and handle better than the other way round.

With due respect to WWC, I don't buy into the idea of keeping the same form factor for batteries. He's kept his battery behind the seat post while Bosch make a killing with downtube batteries. I don't buy into the idea of having a standard form factor for batteries either. Battery casing is part...

Dare I mention the woosh Sirocco? Nice MTB, reliable 8-Fun motor, 10AH 36V battery, extremely good value at £585. http;//wooshbikes.co.uk/?sirocco

the Amps are necessary to overcome the air resistance. The maximum noload RPM varies with the battery's state of charge, a less important factor in my view. The maximum achievable speed is somewhere around 80% of noload RPM assuming you have the Amps in the first place. If you want speed, crank...

look on the bright side, you know where the problem and solution, just need to confirm which you will know in a few days.

these check sheets may be there because their UK partners insist on them going over known issues. Lots of factories around Shanghai have problems with recruiting and retaining good staff, have to rely on migrant workers. Avoid having your bike made in Shanghai. Made in Tianjin is better.

virtually all bikes without LCD display are not restricted, to go fast, just pedal hard, you'll get assisted all the way. You need more Amps to go fast on throttle alone. Scott clarke can confirm that by the number of Amps on the controller's label. On a 36V bike, 14A for 15mph, 17A for 20 mph...

you may need to bring your charger and charge it up at work, just to make sure you have enough juice to get home on assist.

it takes about 1 1/2 to 2 hours to build a motor wheel, quicker than trying to find someone to do it for you. d8veh may tell you the correct length for your spokes, I reckon it's about 220mm-223mm for 26" rim.

the shell may narrow a bit in the middle, where the tubes are joined. I'd put a bit of grease on the BBS01's bottom bracket to trace where the narrowing is then dremel it out.

can you post some pictures of what you've received? you only need to connect battery, controller, LCD and throttle to test the motor. Speed sensor, PAS and brake levers can be left for later. The 5 or 6 way cable is for the Hall sensors.

his CD motor has waterproof style 3-pin motor cable, he can't have a faulty connection. He did not report stalling. I concluded that he may have a reduced capacity cell.

his battery is not completely dead, he can ride about 6 miles on it before it drops - then he can sort of limps home. A battery without sleep function continues to discharge slowly, causing dendrites to form. Then when the battery is chraged to full next time, the cells with dendrites are a bit...

you don't need to ride much in the winter to keep the battery healthy, I reckon 4-5 miles a week would do. As you already managed to get one light off on the battery tester, it's still useable for short trips after recharge. You don't have to rush it back to woosh right away, use the bike for...

there is no need to send the whole bike. By the way, local bike shops can't repair e-bike batteries, they will simply send your battery back to the manufacturer, if anything, that will just add delay.

mick2444 reported a similar case on another thread with his £800 Kalkhoff battery, 384 miles in and the battery starts cutting out. There is a little randomness when you don't ride every day.

Andy does not work weekends, so you may have to wait until Monday for him to get back to you. In the meantime, resist the urge of recharging your battery. Let the battery rest overnight then take the bike out again. You know you are winning when you press the battery test button and one green...

yay! Kudos Typhoon against Woosh Sport CD in a race - sounds excellent! you guys should post your comparative reviews here.

you can always send your battery to woosh to get it fixed.

if you can remove the battery and somehow connect the two silver terminals directly to a halogen light or a fan heater or a toaster. Leave it for a few hours. You can check with the battery meter that it has only one green light out of 4 left.