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One suspects water to be the likely issue and probably fried the 5v circuit.

Maybe he has killed himself derestricting it and taken the info to the grave or has been arrested and locked up for being a naughty boy :eek:.

Private message the individual via the conversation/envelope box next to your name , then the discussion remains private.

Jimmy & Jem will use top quality cells, likely Panny/Sanyo GA or Sam 35E cells though they will have others. Molicel is another top brand cell. Did you not ask which ones ? The cheaper ebay ones will likely use unbranded China cells.

Someone says they have done it quite easily to David's dismay.

One can test for 5v carefully via pins in the throttle or speed sensor julet, one should see 4 - 5v. Much less on the 5v line then the controller needs replacing.

For the £96 for the new controller one could have bought a whole KT controller kit and have a better control system. One can even have nice KT 6 mosfet 30mm dia tubular controller now rather then the box style controllers. About £98 with tubular controller or £80 with a box type controller.

H is a PAS connection and the ops motor also has a PAS connection, one can siimply add any PAS sensor. As D8ve has said it will need steel forks as front hub.

Fully charged it should be in the range of 41.5 - 42v . One can only assume either a cell group is very low and doesn't allow the BMS to switch on to allow the charge process or the BMS may have an issue it self. Tbh the battery needs to be opened and some voltages taken, if the battery is...

One reason why one should study the pics and the detail of controllers to see thye are compatible. I for one only ever buy direct from China sources , amazon is the devil and not a place I use.

For bikes using and LED the speed sensor isn't needed so could be a batch that are for this reason, this may also be backed up by there not being an alternative ext speed connection for wheel sensor.

If the charger stays green it can mean many things, the battery is fully charged so the BMS won't switch to allow more charge, a cell group is at max voltage 4.2v and no more balancing is occurring leaving the others at a much lower voltage or a cell group is low and the BMS not allowing...

If one is not seeing an end voltage then a bad wire, fuse or BMS fault. If not charging again can be all three or a low out of balance cell group.

As if he would know !!!

Also they do satalite communications and have a business name of Insat International, many small busineses working out of the same building/work space. They have ground floor workshop and office area and 1st floor space as well. Jimmy reminds me of Mike Burrows both very knowledgable and...

That's the problem with shrink wrapped batteries one has to part open them to get at the BMS and the sense wires. If you decide to do nothing then it is just scrap ready for recycling, to even have a chance to see where the issue is one needs to carry out basic voltage checks on the cell groups...

The 70 miles is wishful thinking for the average person, one expects it is doable if it is ridden with no assist for part half of the 70miles.

I never fully charge until a few hours before a ride or required use. I have chargers set for storage voltage at 3.8/3.85v so this is my std charge until I top off with a full charge.

If one has no luck with Jimmy and the battery is not available form Wisper/Amps, this cased one from Yosepower appears to me to be the same. One would have to do some checks to be 100% sure so also look on their main web site. There are also others on ebay that are the same as the Yose one...

???? It is 10ah using 2500mah cells in 4P configuration, it is 360wh.