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In the spares list CF do list axle O rings so can only assume this is what they are for. Like your trailer being used, mine also was used and no O rings on the QR axle. I expect users easily lose them and don't bother to rpalce them, one doesn't have to get the exact thickness correct a sone...

The reset SOC % is to high, it should be 4.2v or less, also insert the full voltage values so 4.3 is 4.30 , 3.8 is 3.80 etc,etc.

The trick with Aliexpress is to only buy non expensive buys or be willing to take the hit should an issue arise, it is a buyer beware experience.

There is one other option but means buying a spare 9 pin motor cable to make a short Y test lead to rejoin the original cable for continuity. Cut the new cable it in half or cut it so one has two short tails, then use a wire strip joiner with 9 ports (a household electrical wire joint strip...

The hub likely has an internal speed sensor and magnet, either the Hall sensor has failed or the magnet has dislodged. One would need to open the hub to see if the magnet has moved, testing the Hall sensor may prove harder as I expect waterproof connectors are used. The magnet is often locate...

Hubs don't have temp sensors so it is nothing to so with the hub, what you are seeing is ambient air temp or just a nonsense value.

Set P4 to 0 = always active and see if that works.

Make sure in Tab 1, the motor voltage is set correctly under motor settings. Under batt settings makes sure battery wh is set correct for the battery and the cell number should be 13 for 48v.

48v battery is 54.6v . The 63.5 sounds like motor temp have you enabled this on start up in Tab 3 Adv settings ? 3.9v is too low for a charged cell and 3v is too low for a drained cell, typicaly should be 4.15 - 4.2v and 3.2 - 3.3v respectively. Try setting these; over volt 4.3 reset soc%...

Ah a cyclotricity kit, the electrics are KT Kuenteng. The motor Halls or at least one is fried that accounts for the error 3 and error 3 still exists but error 1 has usurped it at the mo. Error 1 is a throttle fault but shouldn't affect the motor. The motor resistance is due to a phase issue...

Use the beep function meter and test for continuity on the wire loom that connects the display to the controller, test each cooured wire for a beep and if one doesn't beep then that will be the sourc eof the error code. If they all beep then we will have to move on and check that the 5v is good.

Also keep an eye on the breakaway strap if used, my one snapped yesterday at one of the crimps. Moisture has got to the wire strands and it simply snapped off. I have made a new one in the style of the Burley Black strap type, these trailer boys certainly know hiw to charge for spare parts.

I added them because of the metal to metal contact and I have only recently replaced all 4 sealed bearing because of wear. The axle bore is just that with no recesses for the balls to locate in to. As you know one has to press the QR release for the balls to become free and enter the bore, as...

Check the battery voltage with a meter, it wil soon tell you if there is an issue.

The displays should be pretty accurate when volatage is at rest one can confirm this with a meter reading as well, the display will be within 0.2v accuracy. How many wires/pins does the hub motor have ? If nine then it has an internal speed sensor. Change the P2 value in the lcd8 if it is set...

One is best to buy a mathcing pair unless the name of the brand/maker of the controller is known. Show us pics of the controller not the display. Cyclotricity did use KT stuff but they were custom models with extra functions that standard KT stuff don't use.

Can you show us apic of the motor controller ( aluminium metal box) which the hub motor cable will go to and a pic of the display lcd. The latest issue of the hub motor not turning is probably a blown controller ( mosfets have smoked), one can confirm this by disconecting the hub motor cable...

Show us a pic of the meter's functions so we can see if it has a beep mode with the diode function.

It's is the way for extra speed even SW with a dongle has to pedal like the clappers to get the extra speed .

The only part of value is the rear hub motor (if is works) but looks like it has a hub or coaster brake arrangement, at least it is a three phase hub and looks to be a sensored one as well.